• Crochet Book Reviews

    Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend Review

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    Front Cover Image of Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend Pattern Book
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today we’re taking a look at the new book Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend crochet pattern book from designer Kristi Simpson and Leisure Arts. Thanks to Leisure Arts, I have a PDF copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky reader! Keep reading to learn more about this Besties and how you can enter to win a copy of your own.

    Thank you to Leisure Arts who provided me this book free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

    Pin it for later Save

    Patterns in Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend

    Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend contains 7 crochet doll patterns modelled after the designer’s aunts. Each doll is given a unique personality and style. The patterns are designed in a way to allow you to mix and match the pieces in order to create your own unique doll. Instructions/guidance is given at the beginning of the book to help you through the customization process to design your own doll using the patterns in the book to help set you up for success. The doll patterns are:

    • Fashionista Faye
    • Night-Night Nancy
    • Wistful Wanda
    • Lovely Debbie-Lyn
    • Casual Kaye
    • Dainty Dana
    • Modest Mary-Ann
    crochet dolls in a flay lay, made from the patterns in Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend

    Each doll has a unique outfit to match their personality and style. The clothes are either created using colour changes on the body of the doll or added to the doll separately but are not able to be removed or changed. The ability to mix and match the doll pieces is a great alternative though to having removeable doll clothes.

    Yarns Used in Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend

    If you’re matching gauge, the dolls all measure 16″ tall. The yarns used in the patterns are worsted weight yarns (one pattern uses a small amount of bulky weight yarn) with the brand names and colours given at the back of the book. Brands used in the book include:

    • Premier Yarns Everyday Worsted
    • Red Heart Soft
    • Lino Brand Vanna’s Choice
    • Caron Simply Soft
    • Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca
    • Red Heart Hygge Fur

    These yarns may already be in your stash and if they aren’t available locally, you can easily substitute them for another comparable worsted weight yarn.

    3 different crochet dolls in a flat lay

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The patterns are graded as easy and should be accessible to most crocheters. A range of different stitches and techniques are used in each pattern and are clearly explained for each pattern.

    The dolls are all very cute and offer a great range of options for creating your own doll by mixing and matching the pieces. A lot of detail is put into each doll and with the mix and match option most people should be able to make a custom doll for the little one in their life.

    If you’re interested in checking out Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend by Kristi Simpson, it can be purchased HERE.

    Crochet doll on a hand drawn background.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Thanks to Leisure Arts, I have a PDF copy of Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend by Kristi Simpson to giveaway to one lucky winner!

    The Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to worldwide participants (void in Quebec and where prohibited by lawy) and ends Friday, November 13th, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Lobster Hat Free Pattern

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    Red Crochet Lobster Hat in a Flat Lay with Crochet Accessories
    This post may contain affilite links. All opinions are my own.

    The Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern is my latest free crochet pattern that I designed as part of the 2020 Holiday Stashdown CAL! This hat is a crochet ear flap hat that’s accessible for beginners and all the sizes use less than a 100g ball of Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium. If you don’t have the recommended yarn don’t worry, you can use any worsted weight yarn from your stash that you’re able to match the patten gauge with.

    For more information about the Holiday Stashdown CAL please visit Marie’s post here: 2020 Holiday Stashdown Crochet Along.

    Be sure to scroll to the end of her post to enter the CAL giveaway before December 31, 2020.

    Image advertisting the CAL Central Holiday Stashdown Crochet Along

    When you share your progress on Social Media add the tags #CALCentralCrochet and #HolidayStashdownCAL so we can check out your projects too!

    The Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern was created when a family friend found out that her daughter was pregnant. She asked me if I could create a fun and goofy crochet lobster hat for her grandson to gift to him when he was born. I created the hat and subsequently a set of lobster mittens and a lobster tail bunting bag. The friend and her daughter both really enjoyed the set I made and I decided that I would grade the hat in all sizes to share it with you all.

    This hat is perfect for gifting and is easy to customize. My son asked me for an alien hat so I used this exact pattern but used green yarn instead of red and it made the perfect alien. The crochet lobster hat is also a bit of an inside joke for my family because my husband has wanted a lobster tree topper forever. He always jokes that lobsters are a Christmas animal. So for us, it was kind of fitting to release the crochet lobster hat pattern going into the holiday season.

    Thanks to my wonderful testers that checked the sizes of these hat for me to make sure they would fit. I really appreciate all their hard work and help!

    Pin this Free Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern for later SAVE

    Looking for other free crochet hat patterns? Check some of my other crochet hat patterns here:

    Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    Learn How to Do the Magic Circle For this Pattern:


    Sizes Available:

    • 0 – 3 months, 3 – 6 months. 6 – 12 months, 1 – 3 years, 3 – 5 years, 6 – 10 years, Teen/Adult Small and Adult Large

    Gauge:

    • 14 sts x 10 rounds in HDC = 4 inches


    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in joined rounds from the top down.  The hat, earflaps and ties are all crocheted on to eliminate sewing.  Then the antennae and eyes are crocheted separately and sewn on. 
    • Gauge is vital to ensuring that your hat will fit as expected.  Do a gauge swatch of HDC stitches done in the round to check your gauge.  Use whatever hook size allows you to match gauge.
    • Always join your rounds in the top of the first HDC of the round, not the CH.
    • The CH 1 at the start of every round does not count as a stitch
    • Always start your rounds in the first stitch of the last round.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes all sizes for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.


    Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern

    0 – 3 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (48)
    Rounds 7 – 14: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (48)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    Ear flap animal hat

    3 – 6 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 11, HDCINC) x 4. Join (52)
    Rounds 8 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (52)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.



    6 – 12 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Rounds 8 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (56)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    1 – 3 Years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 13, HDCINC) x 4. Join (60)
    Rounds 9 – 17: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (60)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    3 – 5 years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Rounds 9 – 17: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (64)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.



    Red Crochet lobster hat

    6 – 10 years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 15, HDCINC) x 4. Join (68)
    Rounds 10 – 19 : CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (68)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    Teen/Adult Small

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 7, HDCINC) x 8. Join (72)
    Rounds 10 – 19: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (72)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    Adult Large

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 7, HDCINC) x 8. Join (72)
    Round 10: CH 1, (HDC 8, HDCINC) x 8. Join (80)
    Rounds 11 – 21: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (80)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    Crochet Lobster Hat Ear Flaps

    Ear Flaps for 0 – 3 months to 3 Years Old:

    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 9.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 8: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 9: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Crochet Lobster Hat Ear Flap Placement

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Reattach yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 9.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 8: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 9: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 30. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.


    Ear Flaps for 3 – 10 years:

    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 11.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 10: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 11: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Reattach yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 11.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 10: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 11: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 40. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.

    Ear Flaps for Teen/Small Adult & Large Adult:

    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 13.  CH 1 and turn. (14)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 10: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 11: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 12: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 13: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Reattach yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 13.  CH 1 and turn. (14)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 10: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 11: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 12: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 13: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 40. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.


    Eyes for the Crochet Lobster Hat

    Eyes – All Sizes (Make 2)

    Round 1: Using White yarn and 4.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (from here on out referred to as “Join”). CH 1. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. Join. CH 1 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6. Join. (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6. Join (24)
    FO leaving a long tail to secure onto hat.
    Sew button on the center of each eye using black sewing thread and needle.  Using your tail threaded onto a tapestry needle, secure both eyes to the front of the hat directly next to each other.

    Crochet Lobster Hat Antennae


    Right Antenna – All Sizes (Make One)


    Row 1: Using Garnet yarn and 6mm hook, CH 17.  In the back bump of the CH, SL ST in the 2nd CH of the hook.  SL ST in the back bump of the next 5 CHs. Put 2 SL STs in the back bump of the next 2 CHs.  SL ST in the back bump of the last 8 CHs.  (18)
    FO leaving a long tail for securing to the hat.  Sew onto the top of the hat on the right side.


    Left Antenna – All Sizes (Make One)


    The Left Antenna is worked from the bottom-up so that the right side is facing out.

    Row 1: Using Garnet yarn and 6mm hook, CH 17.  In the back bump of the CH, SL ST in the 2nd CH of the hook.  SL ST in the back bump of the next 7 CHs. Put 2 SL STs in the back bump of the next 2 CHs.  SL ST in the back bump of the last 6 CHs.  (18)
    FO.  Using a long piece of yarn, secure the antennae to top of the hat on the left side.

    That’s it! I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet lobster hats! I’d love to see the hats you made. When sharing them on social media, please tag me or use #theloopylamb so I can see them and possibly share them in my stories.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the crochet lobster hat created with this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet lobster hats!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Product Reviews

    Twill Worsted Weight Yarn Review

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    A crochet swatch made of Twill Worsted Weight Yarn, a hank of Twill Worsted Weight and crochet accessories in a flat lay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I have a new yarn to share with you all this week from our friends at We Crochet (crochet.com). It’s called Twill and it is currently available on the We Crochet website in both fingering and worsted weights but today I am reviewing specifically the Twill Worsted Weight Yarn.

    This yarn was provided to me free of charge but all opinions are my own.

    Pin this for Later Save

    Arguably, worsted weight yarn is one of the most readily available and heavily used yarn weights in crochet. There are so many different worsted weight yarns out there, it can make your head spin. But, not all worsted weight yarns are created equal. A slight change in the fibre content, the way the yarn strand is structured or how it is treated can make a big difference. Let’s get the details on the yarn before we take it for a test stitch and see what makes Twill different.

    We Crochet Twill Worsted Weight:

    • Current Number of Colourways Available: 16. Check them out HERE.
    • Fiber Content: 100% Superwash Merino Wool
    • Weight: 4 (medium)
    • Ball Size: 100g
    • Yardage: 149 yd / 136m
    • Suggested Hook Size: 5.5 – 6.5 mm (I – K)
    • Suggested Needle Size: 4 – 5.5mm (US 6 – 9)
    • Crochet Gauge: 11 – 14 scs = 4″
    • Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″
    • Care: Machine wash cold. Tumble dry low.
    If you’re planning on buying some Twill Worsted Weight Yarn, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.
    Hanks of Twill Worsted Weight in Purple and Yellow with two crochet hooks

    First Impressions

    The first thing I noticed about Twill Worsted Weight is that the ply in the yarn strand is really well defined. It kind of looks like a little rope. The strand is dense and has a nice little bit of a sheen to it. It feels like a sturdy, durable yarn. The way the yarn strand is constructed, it isn’t prone to splitting. The colours I have to work with are the Gold Rush and Black Cherry Heather. The colours are bold and gorgeous together. I could barely wait to cake these up and get to work. It looks and feels luxurious as soon as you pick it up out of the box.

    Stitch Definition and The Resulting Fabric in Crochet Swatching

    The stitch definition with this yarn is beautiful and it works up into a nice crocheted fabric. I used a 5.5 mm Furls Odyssey crochet hook to do my swatches here. The resulting fabric is thick and I imagine it would make something warm and lush. I decided to do something a little differently than I have in previous reviews. Rather than try the same three basic stitches (SC, HDC and DC) in both colours of yarn, I decided to try doing a crochet cable on the Black Cherry Heather swatch.

    The cable in this Black Cherry Heather swatch is chunky and has great dimension in this piece, even though the colour is so dark. I really like how it turned out and may try doing something with cables with the Gold Rush Twill since the cable will be a bit more noticeable for photographing.

    Black Cherry Heather Twill crocheted in a cable swatch

    The Gold Rush swatch I decided to add some tunisian crochet to the top of the swatch. On this swatch, I did a few rows of single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet using a 5.5mm crochet hook. I ended my swatch with a few rows of the Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) to see how it would look. I used an 8.0 mm Clover Takumi tunisian crochet hook and I loved the look and the drape of the yarn using the tunisian technique. It really got the creative wheels turning and I’m going to see what I can do for a 1 skein project using this yarn and possibly tunisian crochet.

    crochet swatch of twill worsted weight in gold rush

    Check out the video review of We Crochet’s Twill Worsted Weight yarn:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The yardage in these hanks is only 149 yards so it would be a bit of a splurge purchase to make garment from Twill yarn but I bet it would be beautiful. I’d personally use Twill yarn for 1 to 2 hank projects in order to be able to use a great quality, sumptuous yarn like this but still be budget friendly. If you’re wanting to stretch your yardage further, you could try using this yarn for knitting or tunisian crochet since they (generally) use less yarn than basic crochet. Of course, there are exceptions to that but that is why I say generally. A hat or earwarmer made with this yarn in tunisian stitches would be so squishy and warm!

    Caked up yarn and crochet accessories in a flat lay

    Thanks for checking out my yarn review. Have you tried Twill Worsted Weight yarn yet? What did you think? What would you make with it? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my other reviews:

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  • How To's

    Improve Your Amigurumi Crochet Projects With This One Small Thing

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    green monster amigurumi crochet project with crochet accessories
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m working up a draft of an amigurumi pattern while I wait for the yarn I want to use to arrive and I thought I’d share a bit of my process and share some of my favourite tips to help improve your amigurumi crochet projects. What if I told you that you most likely have something in your home right now that can make the difference between your amigurumi crochet project looking haphazard and it being profesionally done? What if I told you that if you don’t have some of these items in your home, that you could get them for probably under $5? You’d probably be saying “shut up already and tell me what it is!”, right?. This magical little item that is often overlooked is sewing pins. Simple, sewing pins. Keep reading and I’ll tell you how to use them to improve all your amigurumi crochet projects.

    Pin these Amigurumi Crochet Project Tips for Later Save

    Sewing pins may seem like they don’t have a place in the crochet world but these little guys are incredibly handy when it comes to amigurumi projects. They can save you a lot of time and frustration when the time is taken to use them in an amigurumi project. It can make the difference of a polished and professionally done amigurumi project and one that looks a bit sloppy. I’m not saying everyone is looking to sell their items or be professional crocheters (ok, we might actually want that last part) but we all want the best results from our projects and sewing pins can help you get them with little to no investment.

    Sewing pins scattered next to a pin box

    TIP 1: Get Those Limbs in Line!

    This little guy may look like a bit of a mess but this mess helps me not only visualize how he will look with the pieces I’ve made attached but it helps me get the ultimate placement for my arms and other attachments that are being sewn on.  Sometimes one crooked or ill-placed piece on an amigurumi project can be the difference between your project looking cohesive and polished or sloppy and rushed.  So use your sewing pins to pin those pieces onto your project before jumping into sewing.  Take your time and be sure you’re happy with the placement before you sew and you’ll save yourself a lot of heartache later.

    unfinished crochet toy being held together with sewing pins

    TIP 2: Use Them to Outline Your Embroidery

    Full disclosure: I am not very good with embroidery.  I’m a Type A perfectionist and embroidery can be frustrating for me.  So, to make things easier for myself, I outline where I want to embroider with sewing pins.  I’ve gone a little overboard in my picture here to make it more obvious but that line of pins across his face?  That’ll be where his mouth goes.  That pin right under the mouth?  That’ll be an itty bitty tooth stitcking out.  The pins help me know where I want to place them and visualize what it’ll look like before I get started.

    Pins placed on an amigurumi toy showing where to embroider
    Close up of an amigurumi crochet monster's face

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    TIP 3: Use Them to Create Consistency When Making Multiple Amigurumi Crochet Projects

    If you ever find yourself in a situation where you’re making multiple projects from the same pattern, create all your pieces for your projects first and get your pins ready. Pin the pieces to each body and line them up to see if you find any noteable differences. If you find one that doesn’t match, simply pull the pins and readjust that piece. Once you’re satisfied with how they all look, sew on the pieces and at the end you’ll have items that should all look nearly identical. This is a great tip for those creating to sell for shops or markets.

    It is crazy how something as small and simple as a sewing pin can help to improve your amigurumi crochet projects so much. I hope you enjoyed these tips and found them helpful. Have you used sewing pins with your amigurumi crochet projects before? Do you use them in a way that I haven’t mentioned above? Let me know in the comments below.

    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my free amigurumi crochet patterns:

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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Crochet Hacking – A Crochet Book Review

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    Copy of Crochet Hacking by Emma Friedlander-Collins surrounded by fabric and crochet accessories.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    “Hacking” our old clothes is not a new concept. I remember as a teenager “hacking” your old t-shirts to make them into something new being very popular. I remember cutting t-shirts that didn’t fit and piecing them together in different ways and making bags out of old clothes. But something I had never seen during that boom of recycled fashion was crochet hacking. When the opportunity to take a look at Crochet Hacking: Repair and Refashion Clothes with Crochet by Emma Friedlander-Collins came up, I was really interested in checking it out. I was really interested to see what crochet hacks Emma had come up with and how refashioning clothes had changed.

    Thanks to David & Charles for providing me this book for free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

    Pin it for later Save

    My first impressions of the book were that it is bright, colourful and fun. Crochet Hacking starts off with some details about how much clothing is purchased and subsequently sent to landfills every year. The number is alarming. I knew it was a lot but… wow. I don’t personally buy a lot of clothes but just seeing those numbers makes me really rethink any clothes purchases that I do make.

    Crochet Hacking is broken down into sections by the fabric that you’ll be working with: Denim, Jersey (i.e. t-shirts) and Wool & Other Fabrics. Each of these sections begins with some information about the fabric, a breakdown of the tools you’ll need to work with it as well as some techniques to use. Each section is accompanied by clear and helpful photos to help your understanding of each process.

    infographic showing the impact of disposable fashion on the environment
    denim facts included in Crochet Hacking

    Watch the video version of my review of Crochet Hacking here:

    The patterns in Crochet Hacking are written in the UK terminolgy but the US terminology is provided with every pattern so you aren’t going to have to go searching for it. Most of the patterns in the book are more like recipes. The general guidelines are provided on how to execute the project instead of a standard crochet pattern where they tell you exactly how many stitches to create (i.e. CH 57, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook). This doesn’t mean that you’re on your own though. You’re provided with the instructions so no matter your size or shape, you can use the instructions to make something unique to you.

    There are 17 projects in the book to make. Some of the projects in Crochet Hacking include:

    • Not Your Granny’s Bomber
    • Sashiko Stitched Dungarees
    • Eezypeezy Zipper Jacket
    • Bikini Bird Beach Dress
    • Ikea Bag Hack
    • Magic Granny Slippers
    • Summer Breeze Wrap
    • and more!
    woman wearing the Eezypeezy zipper jacket in Crochet Hacking
    Crochet added to denim to make them into overalls

    Although some of the projects in the book aren’t necessarily something I would personally wear, they do spark ideas and provide techniques for how I can apply crochet hacking to my own wardrobe in a way that works for me. I will be making the Sashiko Stitched Dungarees for my daughter. She is growing like a weed and she has jeans that still fit her around the waist but she’s just gotten too tall for. Because the project instructions are there to accommodate any size, I can apply the same techniques to her jeans and she can have a super cute pair of dugarees or dugaree shorts or a skirt. See where I’m going with this?

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link. This helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    refashioned shirt using granny squares in the book being reviewed

    Most of the instructions were clear and easy to follow. There were a few instances where I had to re-read something to really understand what was needing to be done. There is a general techniques section in the back of the book. The technique section was clear and straightforward, accompanied with illustrations for each stitch/technique. In my personal opinion, this book is best suited for intermediate level crocheters or adventurous beginners.

    Overall, I enjoyed Crochet Hacking and will be looking at my wardobe in a whole different way moving forward. Armed with the techniques in the book, I’ll be trying my hand at a variety of different ways to breathe new life not just into my wardrobe, but my kids’ wardobe too. This book is a great resource for crocheters that love clothes and want to limit the impact they have on the environment or those looking for a way to have more crochet in their wardobe without the time investment of crocheting a new garment from scratch.

    If you are interested in checking out Crochet Hacking, you can find it HERE.

    Find Emma Friedlander-Collins on Instagram HERE. She shares tutorials and crochet hacking inspiration on her feed and is definitely worth the follow.

    Check out some more of my crochet book reviews available for free on my blog:

    Back cover of Crochet Hacking
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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Wreath Pattern: Country Winter Wreath

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    Crochet wreath with lights hanging on a fireplace mantel.
    This post may contain affilliate links. All opinions are my own.

    It’s almost that time of year and while we may be celebrating a bit differently this year, I can still decorate for the season. When I set out to design my Country Winter Wreath crochet pattern, I wanted to create something that was timeless and classic, accessible for beginners, yet easy to customize. Seems like a tall order but I feel like I was able to hit all my goals with this pattern.

    Pin this Free Crochet Wreath Pattern for later SAVE

    I really like the minimalist look for wreaths and Christmas decor in general but I wasn’t satified with just a beautifully, classic crochet wreath. I wanted to kick it up a notch and make it extra festive. Because, let’s be honest, this feels like a year where we’ll need all the extra festiveness we can get

    I used Whims Merino DK yarn in this design which is a Z-twist yarn. This z-twist really gives crochet stitches a boost in stitch texture. I wanted to choose a basic stitch that would really pop because of that z-twist. I used one of my favourite stitches: The Thicket Stitch. (You can find a stitch tutorial for how to crochet the Thicket Stitch HERE). The result is an absolutely gorgeous stitch texture with no extra effort or difficult stitching required.

    Lime and gold furls crochet hook laying on top of red yarn

    My Country Winter Wreath Crochet Pattern was designed to be easy to customize as well. Don’t like the minimalist look like I went with? Try adding some christmas baubles, extra lights, some greenery, small amigurumis or figurines. The only limit is your imagination my friends.

    While you’re here, check out some of my other easy crochet christmas patterns available for free here on my blog:

    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Terminology:

    • U.S.

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Christmas wreath lit up on a mantle

    Abbreviations:

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.


    Finished Size:

    • Wreath Body: 6” wide x 44.5” long laid flat
    • Bow: 3” wide x 31” long laid flat

    NOTES:

    • Gauge is not vital to the project although it will affect the amount of yarn needed.
    • This pattern is easily adjustable to be used with other sizes of wreath forms.  Chain an even number of stitches that fit snuggly around the wreath form you have and follow the pattern instructions until your piece is long enough to fit your wreath form.

    Country Winter Wreath – Free Crochet Wreath Pattern

    White Crochet Wreath with a large red bow

    Wreath Body

    Using undyed yarn, CH 32.
    Row 1: (SC, DC) in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next CH*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 CHs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last CH. (31)

    light up crochet christmas wreath


    Rows 2 – 184:  CH 1 and turn. (SC, DC) in the first ST. *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next ST*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 STs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last ST. (31)

    This piece is meant to fit snuggly against the wreath form.  If you aren’t matching gauge or you find your piece isn’t long enough to fit your wreath, continue to add rows of pattern stitch until your piece fits.
    FO.

    close up of the texture on the country winter wreath an easy crochet christmas pattern

    Bow

    Using red yarn, CH 14.
    Row 1:  HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (13)
    Rows 2 – 110: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across (13)
    FO.

    Large red crochet bow close up image



    Piece for Center of Bow

    Using red yarn, CH 7.
    Row 1:  HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (6)
    Rows 2 – 16: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. 

    Battery Pocket (Optional)

    Using undyed yarn, CH 10
    Row 1: (SC, DC) in the 2nd CH from the hook.  *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next CH*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 CHs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last CH. (9)
    Rows 2 –11:  CH 1 and turn. (SC, DC) in the first ST. *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next ST*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 STs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last ST. (9)
    Row 12: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first ST and each ST across. (9)
    FO leaving a long tail to seam the pocket onto the wreath.

    wreath on a wall, made with this easy christmas crochet pattern

    Assembly

    Adding the Lights (Optional)

    If adding lights to your wreath, hold one end of the lights with one hand to hold it in place and use the other hand to wrap the lights around the wreath form until you are back to where you started.  Use a piece of tape or some pins to hold each end of the lights in place temporarily while you cover the wreath with your fabric.

    Pin holding the end of a strand of lights onto the wreath form
    Pin holding the end of a strand of lights onto the wreath form

    Watch How I Wrap My Wreath with Lights Here:

    Covering the Wreath

    With the right side of your wreath body piece you created facing you, wrap the wreath body piece around the wreath form so the long ends touch and the stitches line up.  Using a long length of yarn threaded onto a tapestry needle, mattress stitch the long ends together, working through the ends of the rows.  If you’re using the lights, make sure that the short ends of your wreath body start and end where your lights start and end so that you can make sure the battery pack can be left on the outside of the wreath.  When you reach the end, sew the two ends together and leave a small space for the cord for the battery pack.  FO and weave in ends.

    Here’s a quick video showing me wrap my wreath with crochet and assembling the bow:


    easy christmas wreath on a grey and white door.

    Assembling and Adding the Bow

    Step 1: Lay the bow piece horizontally on a flat surface in front of you.  Take the short ends and cross them over each other to create an x-shape like in the image here.  Pinch the center of the bow together and using a tapestry needle threaded with red yarn, sew a running stitch through all layers of the center of the bow, leaving a tail of a few inches remaining at the end.

    crochet bow tutorial image 1

    Step 2: When you’re finished your running stitch, grab both ends of the yarn and cinch the middle together and tie a knot in the yarn, on the back of the bow.  Leave the tails to secure the bow to the wreath later.

    crochet bow tutorial image 2

    Step 3: Wrap the center piece for your bow around the center of the bow and match the short ends up on the back of the bow. Use your tail to seam the short ends together and secure it to the bow.

    crochet bow tutorial image 3

    Step 4: Using your remaining tails, sew the bow onto the center, bottom point of your wreath.  To help keep your bow from slipping/sagging, when you’re finishing sewing the bow onto the wreath, run your tails under the fabric, in opposite directions and out towards the back of your wreath.  Secure with a knot on the back of the wreath, making sure to poke the knot back inside the fabric.  Now do this process again back towards the front of the wreath, making sure to hide the knot behind your bow.  FO and weave in your ends.

    crochet christmas crafts free crochet pattern

    Adding the Battery Pack Pocket to your Crochet Wreath (Optional)

    Place the pocket piece on the wreath, opposite to the bow. Using your tail, threaded on a tapestry needle, sew around the outside of the battery pack pocket, attaching it to the back of the wreath, leaving one of the short sides of the pocket piece open.  Weave in your ends and place battery pack inside the pocket.

    Crochet christmas decor made with this crochet christmas decor free pattern

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet wreath!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

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  • Product Reviews

    Simply Wool Worsted Twist Review

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    Two hanks of Simply Wool Worsted Twist in a flay lay with crochet accessories
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I’ve been really eyeing a lot of those twisted yarns that I’ve been seeing come out this fall and I was particularly eyeing the Simply Wool Worsted Twist from We Crochet. I’m always interested in more natural yarns and eco-friendlier yarns and I’m a bit obsessed with the natural colours. There is a set of brown tones that come from sheep and alpacas that I seriously melt over and you can find some of those tones in the Simply Wool Worsted. But when the Simply Wool Worsted Twist came out? I was a goner. I knew I was going to have to try some.

    Pin this for Later Save

    So I know a lot of people shy away from natural yarns because they aren’t machine washable. I myself, am typically among that crowd. I have young kids and I hate doing laundry (it NEVER ends. Seriously. There is ALWAYS laundry) so handwashables aren’t my favourite thing. However, that doesn’t mean that I won’t use them. I’ll make exceptions for natural yarns or yarns that I love and are not availablein superwash. There’s just something about using a natural yarn that feels special and I’m willing to put in the extra care for something like that.

    We Crochet Simply Wool Worsted Twist Weight:

    • Current Number of Colourways Available: 4 twist colourways and 8 natural colours in the non-twist. Check them out HERE.
    • Fiber Content: 100% Eco Wool
    • Weight: 4 (medium)
    • Ball Size: 100g
    • Yardage: 218 yd / 199 m
    • Suggested Hook Size: 5.5 – 6.5 mm (I – K)
    • Suggested Needle Size: 4 – 5.5mm (US 6 – 9)
    • Crochet Gauge: 11 – 14 scs = 4″
    • Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″
    • Care: Hand Wash & Lay Flat to Dry
    Close up of the texture of the yarn being reviewed

    If you’re planning on buying some Simply Wool Worsted Yarn, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.

    So, as I stated in the breakdown above, the Simply Wool Worsted comes in a total of 12 colours – 8 solid colours and 4 twisted. The twisted colourways are made by twisting two of the solid colourways together. I got the Wilbur Twist (Wilbur & Wanda) and the Wallace Twist (Wallace & Wanda). It’s a silly thing but I love the names of the yarns. Wanda is a creamy white colour, present in both of these colourways. Wallace is a rich brown colour while Wilbur is a lighter grey colour.

    How Does it Feel?

    Upon pulling the yarn out of the box, I honestly was surprised at how soft this yarn felt. It definitely has a bit of a rougher texture but to be honest, I expected it to be rougher. I’m not particularly sensitive to yarn or the itching it can cause some people. I’ve had multiple people touch this yarn and sample it and the consensus was that the yarn has a slightly rough/scratchy texture but surprisingly soft particularly when I tell them that it’s 100% eco-wool. No one found it unbearably scratchy or unpleasant and all would consider using it in a wearable project. I totally feel like a scientist right now lol.

    Two hanks of Simply Wool Worsted Twist in shades of brown and white


    What’s it Like to Work With?

    The yarn was really pleasant to work with. I didn’t experience any splitting and there was zero irritation to my hands when working with it. Stitch definition was decent despite the colour twist in the yarn. The lighter coloured yarn had a bit better stitch definition just due to the fact that the darker colour made stitchces a bit more difficult to see. The colours work up beautifully and creat a nice heathered/marled effect that would be gorgeous in a larger piece.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Check out the video review of We Crochet’s Simply Wool Worsted Twist yarn:

    Simply Wool Worsted Twist in a Crochet Swatch

    Below are each colourway I received in a crochet swatch. For my reviews, I like to do the three basic stitches in a swatch to give an idea of how the different stitches may affect how the yarn works up. I start with a few rows of single crochet stitches, followed by a few rows of half double crochet stitches and then some double crochet stitches. I did these swatches with a 5.5mm crochet hook

    Simply Wool Twist worked up in a crochet swatch

    Thanks for checking out my yarn review. Have you tried Simply Wool Worsted Twist yarn yet? What did you think? What would you make with it? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:    www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Subscribe to my YouTube Channel: The Loopy Lamb on YouTube
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my other reviews:

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  • How To's

    How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish

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    amigurumi project finished using the ultimate finish technique
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    When crocheting amigurumi projects, there are a number of techniques that can be utilized to get get a better-looking finish. Sometimes designers will include instructions for some of these techniques in their patterns and sometimes, they’ll expect you to already know them. Today I want to show you how to finish off amigurumi using the ultimate finish technique. Having the ultimate finish technique in your tool box will enable you to use it for any amigurumi project, whether other not it has been provided for you in a pattern.

    Pin it for later Save

    To get the absolute best finish possible, make sure you’re using the invisible decrease stitch for your single crochet decreases (SCDEC) in your final rounds. You can find my tutorial on how to do the invisible decrease stitch HERE. Using this in conjunction with the ultimate finish will help minize any gaps or hole when you’re finishing off your amigurumi project.

    Check out my How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish video tutorial here:

    How to Finish Amigurumi with Ultimate Finish

    When you are on the last round of your amigurumi piece and your piece is stuffed, you should have (generally) 6 single crochet (SC) stitches remaining in the round.

    amigurumi project with after the last row is finished.

    When the pattern says to finish off (FO), cut your yarn leaving a long tail and thread the tail onto a tapestry/yarn needle. Using your tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each stitch in your last round.

    amigurumi project showing the difference between front and back loops in crochet stitches

    Once you have finished, gently pull the yarn taught. This will cinch the last round closed.

    cinching the yarn closed doing the ultimate finish technique in crochet
    closed hole in amigurumi using ultimate finish technique

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Sometimes there will be a little bump that forms from cinching the hole closed. To fix this and flatten the bump, insert the needle into the centre of the bump, and out the other side of your project. This can be done almost anywhere as long as you pull your yarn out between the stitches and not through the stitches. (This will make sure you don’t damage the surface of your fabric).

    tapestry needle pointing into amigurumi project to remove the bump left from ultimate finish

    Pull the yarn taught until the bump flattens. Weave in your end and cut the yarn.

    completed project using the ultimate finish technique to finish off amigurumi

    Voila! The ultimate finish gives you… well, the ultimate finish! It is beautifully clean and tidy and can really help to improve your amigurumi projects. I hope you have enjoyed learning how to finish off your amigurumi using the ultimate finish technique. If you have any questions, pelase don’t hesitate to ask. I’d love to hear what you think once you’ve given it a try!

    Want to practice using this technique? Here are some free amigurumi crochet patterns you can use it with:

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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Crochet Iconic Women Book Review

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    Cover of Crochet Iconic Women in a flat lay with yarn and a furls crochet hook.
    This post contains affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    This week I have the pleasure of reviewing a new book called Crochet Iconic Women: Amigurumi Patterns for 15 Women Who Changed the World by Carla Mitrani releasing today, October 13, 2020. When I first heard about this book’s release, I was very interested and have eagerly awaited it’s release. I loved the concept of the book and wanted to get my hands on a copy to learn more about it. I didn’t know which Iconic Women would be included in the book but I was intrigued and couldn’t wait to find out.

    Thank you to David & Charles books who provided this book to me free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

    Pin it for later Save

    For Crochet Iconic Women, the author had the difficult time of narrowing the projects down to 15 iconic women to make. She hints at the potential of a volume 2 and if there is a pre-sale happening to make that a reality, then sign me up. Iconic Women has crochet patterns for 15 women that have faced adversity, overcome it and impacted history. These are not just women from distant history either. There are very real and timely women that are out there making a difference right now. And I just loved that. The patterns included in the book are:

    • Marie Curie
    • Billie Holiday
    • Amelia Earhart
    • Audrey Hepburn
    • Serena Williams
    • Queen Elizabeth II
    • Jane Goodall
    • Rosa Parks
    • Ruth Bader Ginsburg
    • Malala Yousafzai
    • Jane Austen
    • Greta Thunberg
    • Florence Nightingale
    • Emmeline Pankhurst
    • Cleopatra
    Projects inside crochet iconic women

    Watch the video version of my review of Crochet Iconic Women here:

    crochet serena williams

    Each pattern includes a brief introduction of each woman, explaining how she shaped history. The intros are interesting and brief enough to give you a better understanding of each woman but intriguing enough to make some of us want to learn more about these women. Heck, you might even learn something you didn’t know before. For instance, I’ve heard the name Florence Nightingale before but didn’t know much about her. But after reading her intro, I know that her nickname was “The Lady of the Lamp” and that she played a huge role in shaping the way hospitals function.

    The book has beautiful images and is beautiful from cover to cover. The reference section included in the back is very well done. It’s clearly illustrated and thorough. Carla has included instructions for everything from invisible finish to attaching limbs, making wire glasses and more.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    crochet ruth bader gisberg

    The patterns are written in U.S. terminology and use DK weight yarn and either 2.0 or 2.5mm crochet hooks. The dolls measure 7 3/4″ tall so they are are a great size for little hands. The patterns are clear and simple to follow. A lot of attention to detail has been put not just into the book but the patterns themselves. Florence Nightingale has a little lamp, Marie Curie has a little Erlenmeyer Flask and Jane Goodale has a chimpanzee and a little yellow purse. Each pattern has a quote from the famous lady that’s being created and it’s just another nice touch illustrating the thoughtfulness that has gone into Iconic Women. Carla includes a page at the back of the book encouraging readers to take the patterns, mix and match elements of the projects and to create your own crochet iconic women.

    crochet greta thunberg

    And lastly, just when I think that I cannot love Crochet Iconic Women anymore, I notice that the publisher will donate 5% of the proceeds from the book sales to the Wonder Foundation. Wonder Foundation is a women-led non-profit organization dedicated to helping girls and women through access to quality education. This book is inspiring from cover to cover and I just adore it. I have a young daughter that I cannot wait to make these for. Thank you to Carla Mitrani for an absolutely lovely book and I truly hope that there will be a volume 2.

    If you are interested in checking out Crochet Iconic Women, you can find it HERE.

    Find Carla Mitrani on Instagram HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Back cover of crochet iconic women by carla mitrani
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  • Product Reviews

    Stroll Tonal Mini Pack Yarn Review

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    Mini hanks of yarn from the Stroll Tonal Mini Pack being reviewed
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I had the opportunity this week to try an new yarn from We Crochet & Knit Picks called Stroll Tonal Mini Packs. I see lots of indie dyers selling mini skein or mini hank sets of yarn and now you can get them from We Crochet as well. As always, I wanted to share my experiences with you so I decided to share my review of the Stroll Tonal Mini Pack.

    This yarn was sent to me free of charge from We Crochet in exchange for my honest review.

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    On the We Crochet website, the Stroll Tonal Mini Packs are available in 10 different colour packs. Each pack contains 5 differently coloured mini hanks. The colour combos they have available are beautiful and it’s truly hard to pick a favourite set of colours. Some of my favourites were the Moody Blues, Spring Fields, Coastal and Sunset.

    Close up image of the Stroll Tonal Mini Pack yarn

    Each Stroll Tonal Mini Pack contains 100g of fingering weight yarn. That’s 5 – 20g hanks of yarn per hank. The yardarge for the whole package is 462 yards/ 422 meters. Basic math tells me that there is approximately 92.4 yards per hank in the pack. The fibre content is 75% superwash merino and 25% nylon. The recommended hook sizes for this yarn are in the B – E (2.25 – 3.5mm) range. The yarn in the Stroll Tonal Mini Packs is machine washable and dryable which I love because if something is handwash and lay flat to dry, it just won’t get as much use at my house.

    We Crochet Stroll Tonal Mini Packs:

    • Current Number of Colourways Available: 10. Check them out HERE.
    • Fiber Content: 75% superwash merino and 25% nylon
    • Weight: 1 (Fingering)
    • Package Size: 100g – 5 – 20 g hanks per package
    • Yardage: 460 yd / 422 m
    • Suggested Hook Size: 2.25 – 3.5mm(B – E)
    • Suggested Needle Size: 2.25 – 3.25mm (US 1 – 3)
    • Crochet Gauge: 21 – 32 scs = 4″
    • Knitting Gauge: 7 – 8 sts = 1″
    Close up image of a fingering weight yarn cake from the pack of yarn being reviewed

    If you’re planning on buying a Stroll Tonal Mini Pack, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.

    I’m reviewing the Sunset mini pack and that pack contains the following colourways: Poppy Field, Heartfelt, Wine Tasting, Cordial and Pansy. The tones in each colour varies in intensity. For example, the tones used in the Heartfelt (red) and Cordial (purpley red) have subtle tone variations but the Wine Tasting (lighter purple and red) and the Pansy (darker purple and light purple) have much bolder tonal variations. The colours overall are vibrant and work very well together so I couldn’t wait to work them up.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Check out the video review of Stroll Tonal Mini Pack yarn:

    Other than noticing the colours, my first observation was noticing how plump the yarn was for a fingering weight. yarn. I thought it was DK at first until I double checked the label. The yarn is really soft and pleasant. It has a nice, tight ply so it isn’t prone to splitting.

    This yarn was incredibly soft and lovely to work with. The tonal variations throughout the yarn were beautiful. I started a project with this yarn shortly after doing my swatch for this review and I LOVE how the colours are working up together. It really creates a wonderfully cohesive project in terms of colours. I really enjoyed this yarn and would absolutely use it again in a heartbeat. I can’t wait to share the pattern I am working on for you all with this yarn.

    Two mini hanks of yarn in a flat lay with a furls odyssey crochet hook, scissors and a coffee.

    Thanks for checking out my yarn review. Have you tried Stroll Tonal Mini Packs yet? What did you think? What would you make with it? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

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    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my other reviews:

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