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The Bobblelicious Bag – Free Crochet Pattern
The Bobblelicious Bag is a fun crochet circle bag that is made of super chunky bobble stitches. Once it is assembled, it kind of looks like a pillbox bag. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder “where did she buy that bag?”.
The Bobblelicious Bag is crocheted by holding two strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota Chunky Yarn together. Sarasota Chunky is a cotton/acrylic (60%/40%) mix size 5 yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable (yay!) and it comes in a variety of colours. (www.cascadeyarns.com) I really enjoyed working with this yarn for this project.
I decided to take my hand at lining this bag and I am so glad that I did. It is one of my favourite parts of this bag. I picked a cotton fabric in a vibrant teal colour to line my bag. So although the outside of my bag may be a subtle silver/grey colour, there’s that beautiful pop of colour when you open it. I can’t wait to see what colour combos you all come up with when you’re making your Bobblelicious Bags!
A peek of the inside of my Bobblelicious Bag Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
- 10 mm hook
- Approximately 1 ball** (6.9 oz/195g) of Sarasota Chunky Yarn in Silver (Colour No. 222) **See Note section regard the potential need for a second skein.
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Marker
- 9″ Zipper in a coordinating colour
- 51” Purse Strap – I got mine HERE. It came with the tassel that I attached to the zipper
- 2 – 1” wide triangle rings for making detachable straps (I used these HERE)
- 0.25 meters of heavy weight fusible interfacing (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
- 0.25 meters of fabric (I used cotton) in your preferred colour for lining the inside of your bag (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
- Sewing Needle
- Iron
- Sewing thread that matches the colour of your bag
- Sewing Machine for lining your bag
- Fabric marker/pencil or something to mark your fabric with
- Fabric Scissors
- Sewing Pins
Get a copy of the inexpensive ad-free PDF HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- SC = Single Crochet
- DC = Double Crochet
- MC = Magic Circle
- FO = Finish Off
- Bobble = Bobble Stich
Special Stitches: Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG). To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook). Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.
Size: One Size
Finished size: Approximately 9 inches tall x 9 inches wide x 3” deep. Measurements do not include strapGauge: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 4” square
Pin in for later: HERE
NOTES:- This bag is made out of two different panels that are worked in the round and then sewn together. The end of each round is joined with a sl st.
- This bag is made holding two strands of yarn together. You can use one skein of yarn and pull from both ends of the skein or get two skeins and pull from the center of each skein.
Panels (Make 2)
Row 1: Holding 2 strands of Sarasota chunky yarn together, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (6)
Row 2: *SC 1, Bobble* in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (12)
Row 3: (SCINC) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (24)
Row 4: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC 1 in the next) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1 (24)
Row 5: (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next) x 12. Join with a sl st to the first st. CH 1. (36)
Row 6: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 18. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (36)
Row 7: (SC 2, SCINC in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1(48)
Row 8: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (48)
Row 9: SC in each stitch around. (48)
FO and weave in ends.
Lining Your Bobblelicious Bag
Fold the fabric you will be lining your bag with, in half so you can cut two circles at the same time. Lay one of your bag panels on top of the fabric and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew. You should now have two fabric circles. Repeat these steps again on your interfacing so you have a total of 2 fabric circles and 2 interfacing circles.
Using your iron, fuse one of your fabric circles to each of your interfacing circles. This means you’ll have two interfacing circles with fabric on them.
Place your interfacing circles (fabric side facing the wrong side of your panel so that if there are holes in your panel, the coloured fabric will show through) on the back of each of your panels. If your circles are too big to fit inside the panel without stretching it, trim the circles down until they fit snuggly inside each panel.
Once you’re confident with the fit, of your interfacing circles, lay one of your interfacing circles on top of the fabric that has been folded in half and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew. You should now have 2 interfacing circles (fused with fabric) and 2 fabric circles.
Measure the width of your bag and add 1” for seam allowances. Measure the circumference (around the outside) of your bag and subtract 8 inches from that measurement (to leave space for your zipper). Using these measurements, cut a strip from your fabric.
Pin a fabric circle to each edge of the long strip you just cut, leaving a 1/2” seam allowance. Sew around the edge of each circle to seam it to the strip, stopping at the end of the strip. This is honestly probably the most time-consuming part so take your time.
Adding the Zipper
Cut a 9.5” – 10” long x 4” wide piece of fabric and cut it in half. These pieces will be sewn onto either side of the zipper. Fold the long edge of each strip a ¼” and iron it down to hold it in place. Pin that edge to your zipper (with nice side of fabric facing up) ensuring that you leave enough for the zipper to move freely. Repeat with the second strip. Sew the strips onto your zipper.
With the zipper facing up and the bag lining with the wrong side facing out, line up your zipper with the opening on your lining that was left for the zipper. Pin together, leaving a ¼ to ½” seam allowance and sew together, around the entire piece.
Assembly
Place your interfusing panels inside each of your crocheted panels. If your panels aren’t fitting snuggly you can tack them in place by hand sewing them with a coordinating thread to your crochet panel. Place the two crochet panels together with right sides facing out. Holding two long lengths of yarn together, whip stitch the two panels together, leaving an opening of at least 9.5” for the zipper. You may want to wait until you are done sewing in your zipper before you weave in the ends from this so if you need a little extra wiggle room to get your zipper in, you’ll have some give in the seam because it isn’t finished.
Place your lining (with the wrong side facing out) inside the purse and using a sewing thread and needle, hand sew the zipper to the opening of your bag. Weave in your ends from your whip stitch seam.
Line up your triangle rings on each side of the bag, approximately 2.5” inches below the edges of your zipper. Using a length of yarn, sew to your bag. Attach your purse strap to the triangle rings. If using a tassel, attach it to the zipper.
Viola! You’re finished your Bobblelicious Bag! I hope you enjoy 😊
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished Bobblelicious Bag! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like making crochet bags? Check out my free patterns for The Vendbar Tote (The Reversible Tote Bag), The Colour Block Makeup Bag or The Rainbow Saver Tote Bag.
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Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. There is something timeless and classic about a good chevron blanket. I have made my Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket so many times this year for baby showers that I could probably crochet one in my sleep. This blanket is honestly a huge hit no matter what colour I made it in. I have even made it in colours that I wasn’t particularly drawn to and ended up loving it so much I kept it for my daugther.
Using Bernat Blanket Stripes yarn, (my go-to blanket yarn) which is a super bulky, size 6 yarn, this blanket works up in a jiffy. I have made one in two evenings or about 6 to 8 hours.
Pin this for later HERE.
The blanket is so soft and warm, that it is great to lay baby on for tummy time and the size is big enough that it can be used as a lapghan. Because, let’s be honest, babies need blankets long after their no longer babies. The one at our house is used by everyone on an almost daily basis.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern here (buy now) on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.
You only need to know how to chain and single crochet for this blanket so it is super simple. If you can do that and count up to 8, you’re ready to make yourself a Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket. I know you’re excited to get started and now I want to start another one, so let’s get to the pattern.
Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket
Skill Level: Beginner
Supplies:
10 mm hook
3 balls of Bernat Blanket Stripes in the same colour. I’m using Teal Deal
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
FO = Finish Off
Finished size: 38” Long by 34” wide
Gauge: 8 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches
NOTES: For this pattern, in order to maintain the colour pattern that is created with your first 12 rows, you’ll likely have to deconstruct two of your balls of Bernat Blanket. If you’re able to get 3 balls of yarn that all start on the same colour, you’ll be able to minimize how much deconstruction that will be needed.
CH 97.
Row 1: SC 2 in the 2nd chain from the hook. *SC in the next 8 CH, skip the next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 3 SC in the next CH*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC in the next 8 CH, skip next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 2 SC in the last CH. CH 1 and turn. (96)Rows 2 – 3: SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
You won’t have enough of your starting colour to complete another full row so I recommend cutting your yarn here and reattaching the yarn in the next colour in your ball. If you don’t want to weave in your ends and don’t mind mid-row colour changes, you can keep going without cutting your yarn.
This is the same pattern made in Bernat Blanket Stripes in the colourway Seashells Rows 4 – 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Change to next colour in your ball.Rows 7 – 9: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Change to next colour in your ball.
Rows 10 – 12: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Rows 13 – 48: Repeat Rows 1 – 12, 4 more times. (96)FO and weave in ends. Enjoy your Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like making blankets? Check out the free pattern for my Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket.
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How to Single Crochet (SC)
The single crochet stitch is a simple, basic and versatile stitch. This stitch is used extensively in amigurumi patterns as it creates a dense, closed fabric. This tutorial will show you how to do the single crochet stitch with simple, step-by-step photos and instructions.
When the single crochet stitch is used in a pattern, it will be abbreviated as SC.
Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain your desired number of stitches. Insert your hook into the second chain (CH) from the hook through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. (You will never work in the 1st chain from the hook unless it is specified in the pattern).
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull the yarn through the stitch. You will now have two loops on your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull through both loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. One SC completed.
Step 4: Insert your hook into the next chain (CH) through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Yarn over (YO), pull through the stitch. You will now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over (YO) and pull through both loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. This is your second single crochet stitch (SC) completed.
Repeat Step 4 in each remaining chain.
Completed first row of single crochet stitches To add a second (or more) row(s):
To add a second row of single crochet, chain 1 and turn your work counterclockwise. You’ll now be working across the tops of the stitches you just made.
Step 1: Insert your hook into the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops (often referred to as the first stitch because it is the first stitch of this row), yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch.
Note: The chain 1 does not count as a stitch unless the pattern tells you otherwise
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) and pull through both loops on your hook. One Single Crochet Stitch completed.
Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through both loops on your hook. One Single Crochet Stitch completed.
Step 3: Repeat Step 2 in each remaining single crochet stitch across.
To add more rows, you would repeat the instructions for adding your second row until your piece reaches the desired size.
I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post. Like stitch tutorials? Check out my Foundation Single Crochet Stitch Tutorial! Want a pattern that uses the Single Crochet Stitch? Check out my Carter the Carrot Amigurumi Pattern.
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The Vendbar Tote Bag
This post may contain affiliate links. This post is sponsored by Hobbii Yarns. All opions are my own. I am excited to share with you my latest pattern: The Vendbar Tote Bag. This bag has a wonderful texture on the “right side” and that stitch pattern creates a really cool colour pattern on the “wrong side”. It is seriously hard for me to tell you which side I like more. The seam is nearly invisible on this bag due to the textured stitches. So no matter of The Vendbar Tote Bag which side you prefer, just go with it.
During the design process, I always try to come up with a name for a project early on. Naming my projects is something I sometimes struggle with because so many names have been used already. While I was designing this bag, I could not come up with a name I was happy with. My husband suggested the Blueberry You-Carry and although it was hilarious, it wasn’t what I was looking for. Then I came up the idea of using a Danish word since Hobbii Yarns is from Denmark. Vendbar means reversible in Danish. So it isn’t the most creative name if I call it The Reversible Tote but it sounds a bit better when it’s called The Vendbar Tote.
Pin this for Later: Pin This Pattern for Later.
Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
The Vendbar Tote Bag
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
- 4.0 mm hook
- Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8 Colour Bag in Colour 02. This is a size 3 cotton yarn. If you’re ordering the balls individually, you’ll need 1 ball in the following colours 01 (white), colour 02 (cream). You’ll need 2 balls in the following colours 70 (medium blue), 71 (light blue) and 76 (dark blue). If you don’t intend to match gauge, I recommend ordering a 3rd ball of colour 76 (dark blue).
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker
Get an inexpensive copy of the ad-free, PDF version of both these patterns HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
DC = Double Crochet
TR = Triple/Treble Crochet
BLO = Back Loop Only
FO = Finish OffSize: One Size
Finished size: 14 inches tall at bag’s tallest point (not including handles) x 14.75 inches wide.Gauge: 19 sts across x 15 rows (Rows 10 – 23 of bag pattern repeat) = 4” square
The inside of The Vendbar Tote NOTES:
- Anywhere “join” is indicated it means to join the last stitch of the round to the first stitch of the round with a sl st.
- This bag is reversible but how you work your TR stitches is vital to making that happen. When I make my TR stitches (as noted in Row 11), I put my hook through the stitch as normal (under both loops) but I push the stitches of the previous row backwards before I do my YO and pull through the stitch. This ensures that the working yarn doesn’t wrap around the previous row of stitches.
Using Colour 76 (Dark Blue), CH 51
Row 1: In 2nd CH from hook, SCINC. SC 48, SC 3 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the chain, SC 48. SC in the last CH. Join last stitch to first stitch with a sl st. (102)
Row 2: CH 1. SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next. SC 48, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 48, SCINC in the last st. Join with a sl st (106)
Row 3: CH 1. SC, SCINC in the next two stitches. SC 48, SCINC in the next two stitches, SC 1, SCINC in next two stitches, SC 48, SCINC in the last two stitches. Join with a sl st (112)
Row 4: CH 1. SC, SCINC in the next two stitches. SC 52, SCINC in the next two stitches, SC, SCINC in next two stitches, SC 52, SCINC in the last two stitches. Join with a sl st (122)
Row 5: CH 1. (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next stitch) x 2, SC 54, (SCINC in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch) x 3, SCINC, SC 54, SCINC, SC, SCINC. Join with a sl st (130)
Rows 6 – 9: CH 1. In BLO, SC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 10: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 71 (Light Blue)
Row 11: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join with a sl st. (130)
Row 12: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (130)
Row 13: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
The outside of the Vendbar Tote Change to Colour 2 (Cream)
Row 14: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.
Row 15: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 16: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)
Row 17: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 18: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 19: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 1 (White)
Row 20: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 21: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 22: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 76 (Dark Blue)
Row 23: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Rows 24 – 27: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 28: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 71 (Light Blue)
Row 29: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 30: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 31: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 2 (Cream)
Row 32: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 33: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 34: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)
Row 35: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 36: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 37: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 1(White)
Row 38: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 39: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 40: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 76 (Medium Blue)
Row 41: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Rows 42 – 45: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 46: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 71(Light Blue)
Row 47: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 48: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 49: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 2 (Cream)
Row 50: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 51: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 52: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)
Row 53: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 54: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 55: CH 1. SC 23. CH 78. Skip 34. SC31. CH 78. Skip 34. SC 8. Join. (62 SCs and 156 chs)
Rows 56 – 58: CH 1. SC in each stitch and CH around. Join. (218)
FO and weave in ends. Enjoy your bag 😊
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like Tote Bags? Check out these free tote bag patterns! The Shoreline Seeker Tote or The Rainbow Saver Tote.
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Dinosaurs to Crochet: A Crochet Book Review
If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you’ve probably caught on to the fact that I’m a bit of a crochet book lover. I have a stack of crochet-related books next to my bed that I’m working through. This week I read Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner so I thought I’d review it for you all this week. I’m also giving away a copy of this book! Keep reading to find out how to enter.
Last fall, after a dramatic trip to the library, I made it home with a copy of Christmas Ornaments to Crochet: 31 Festive and Fun-to-Make Designs for a Handmade Holiday by Megan Kreiner. (You can read that review and the tale about the dreaded library trip HERE). I came home, consumed the book and posted my review.
I was so shocked when Megan contacted me directly and thanked me for the review. It seriously made my day. She mentioned that she had a dinosaur crochet book in the works. Dinosaurs are a big deal at my house so we couldn’t wait for it to come out.
Fast forward several months and Dinosaurs to Crochet is here and my first impression was “This. is. SO. COOL!” I reached out to Megan and she kindly arranged to get me a copy of the book to review.
Megan is an animator for DreamWorks (how cool is that?) and her attention to detail in this book is insane. The dinosaurs in Dinosaurs to Crochet aren’t your normal cutesy cartoonish crochet dinosaurs. These dinosaurs are legit. They look like actual dinosaurs and each one is an absolute work of art. Don’t believe me? Take a look at this ankylosaurus!
Each pattern is accompanied with multiple pictures to guide you through the process of making your own prehistoric pal. Many of the projects include instructions for utilizing wire to make your dinosaur poseable and keep them stabilized. It is an optional step but I love that it is included
Dinosaurs to Crochet comes with 12 patterns so you’re sure to find something for the dinosaur lover in your life. Dinosaurs in this book include:
– T-Rex
– Triceratops
– Stegasaurus
– Velociraptor
– Brachiasaurus
– Pteradon
– and more!
As with most crochet books, Dinosaurs to Crochet includes written and visual instructions for the stitches used in the book, crochet and finishing techniques. I found the patterns to be clear, concise and logical. If you’re a beginner or absolutely new to amigurumi, all the steps involved may seem a little daunting upon first inspection but I think Megan has done a great job of making this book accessible to everyone.
This book generated a lot of excitement when it arrived at my house. My family has already put in requests for me to make almost every dinosaur in this book. Even my husband asked me to make him a triceratops. So if you plan on getting yourself a copy of Dinosaurs to Crochet, you may find yourself very busy making dinosaurs if you forget to put it away when company is over.
If you’re interested in buying a copy of Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, it can be purchased from Amazon HERE. If you purchase through this link, I will get a small commission which helps keep my site running and my patterns free.
My husband and I had a bit of fun taking pictures. Giveaway Time!
Thanks to Spring House Press, I have a copy of this wonderful book to giveaway to one lucky winner! Please read the rules and regulations below before entering. Good luck!
This giveaway is open to US and Canada addresses only (void where prohibited). The giveaway ends September 6, 2019, at 12:15am EDT time. To enter, use the KingSumo form below. Please use a desktop computer to enter if you are experiencing difficulties on mobile devices. Only the email option is mandatory – all other tasks are for optional, bonus entries only.
The winner will receive a copy of Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, and will be notified by email.
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This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opions are my own. While I was on vacation recently, I found myself without my crojo. Everything I attempted to make didn’t turn out. I kept trying though and eventually the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy were born. Named after the place we vacation, and the place that helped me slow down and relax enough to help me get my crojo back. Comprised of simple stitches, this bag and cup cozy work up quickly and have wonderful texture.
For this bag, you’ll need to know how to chain, single crochet, single crochet increase, double crochet, slip stitch, half double crochet and crocheting in the third loop.
Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
Pin this for later HERE.
This bag uses Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn which is a bulky (5) yarn in two different colours. For my bag I used Steel Blue and Clay. You can use your favourite bulky yarn as a substitute for the Bernat Maker Home Dec when making your Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy, but I would recommend using a cotton or cotton blend to minimize stretching.
Try this cup cozy out on your iced coffee! Although it’s a simple stitch pattern, the chunky yarn gives it a bit of a different look.
Get an inexpensive copy of the ad-free, PDF version of both these patterns HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
The Elgin Cup Cozy Pattern
Skill Level: Beginner
Supplies:
8.0 mm hook
0.78 oz/22g of Bernat Maker Home Dec in any colour
Tapestry NeedleAbbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
FO = Finish Off
Size: One Size
Finished size: 3 inches tall x 4 inches wide.
Gauge: 5 sts across x 4 rows = 2” square
Pattern
CH 22. Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST, taking care not to twist your CH.
Row 1: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. DC in the next st. (SC 1, DC 1) to end of round. Join with a SL ST. (22)
Rows 2 – 8: CH 1. (SC 1, DC 1) to end of round. Join with a SL St. (22)
FO and weave in ends.Keep reading to get the Elgin Tote Bag pattern.
The Elgin Tote Bag Pattern
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
6.0 mm hook
8.6 oz/245 g/311 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec in Clay (Main Colour)
0.5 oz/13 g/17 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec in Steel Blue (Contrasting Colour)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
HDC = Half Double Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
FO = Finish Off
Finished size: Approximately 14.5 inches tall x 15 inches wide.Gauge: 13 sts across x 10 rows = 4” square
Pattern
Row 1: Using you Main Colour, Ch37. In 2nd CH from hook SCINC, SC 34, SC 5 in last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 34, SC 3 in last CH. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST and CH 1 (from here on out referred to only as “join”). (78)
Row 2: (SCINC) x 2 SC 34, (SCINC) x 5, SC 34, (SCINC) x 3. Join. CH 1. (88)
Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 2, SC 34, (SC 1, SCINC) x 5, SC 34, (SC 1, SCINC) x 3. Join. CH 1. (98)
Rows 4 – 7: SC in the first stitch, DC in the next stitch. (SC 1, DC 1) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 8: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 9: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Rows 10 – 12: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1(98)
Row 13: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 14: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Rows 15 – 17: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1(98)
Row 18: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1(98)
Row 19: In 3rd loop, HDC around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 20: in 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Rows 21 – 23: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 24: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 25: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Rows 26 – 28: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 29: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Change to Contrasting Colour
Row 30: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Rows 31 – 33: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 34: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 35: In 3rd loop, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 36: In 3rd loop, SC in the first stitch and each stitch around around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Rows 37- 39: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)
Row 40: SC 17, CH 70, skip 28, SC 21, CH 70, skip 28, SC 4. Join. CH 1 (42 STS, 140 CHs)
Row 41: SC in each stitch and chain around. Join. CH 1 (182)
Row 42: SC in each stitch around. Join. 1 (182)
FO and weave in ends.Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like tote bag patterns? Check out my free patterns for the Rainbow Saver Tote or Shoreline Seeker Tote.
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Free Flamingo Crochet Pattern Round Up
I don’t know about you, but everywhere I look this summer, I’m seeing flamingo stuff. Flamingos are pretty awesome so it’s no wonder that their popularity is gaining this summer. I’ve rounded up some of the best free flamingo crochet patterns available here for you. Know a great free flamingo crochet pattern that wasn’t included? Let us know in the comments below!
This Fabulous Flamingo Bag by Crafty Cruella really is fabulous! Use it on the go, at the beach, everywhere. Get the free pattern HERE.
These Flamingo Feet Baby Booties by Nadia Faud of YARNutopia are beyond adorable! I just love them! The pattern is available for baby size (6 months) and adult but some guidance is provided on adjusting the size. These can also be used as a basis to make other birds as well. You can get the free pattern HERE.
This Flamingo Friend by Blackstone Designs is the perfect cuddle-size stuffy. I was going to say that this is perfect for the kids in your life but let’s be honest, I want to cuddle this guy. Check out the free pattern HERE on the Blackstone Designs blog.
If you’re wanting to add more flamingo to your decor, then check out the Decorative Flamingo C2C Pillow by Damn It Janet, Let’s Crochet (plus, I LOVE her blog name). This pillow is so cool and you could customize the back to fit your colour scheme. Check out the free pattern HERE.
This Flamingo Wallhanging by Winding Road Crochet is another fun and bold make for home decor using the C2C technique. Get this beautiful free pattern HERE.
Want to take your flamingo on the go? Then you’re definitely going to need this Flamin-to-Go Cup Cozy pattern by (me) The Loopy Lamb. Get the pattern HERE.
Flamingos are perfect for the beach. So why not make this fantastic Flamingo Towel by Stitch and Hound to take with you? Get the free pattern HERE.
Get your flamingo on year-round with this gorgeous Flamingo Lapghan Graph Pattern by Psychedelic Doilies. Get the free pattern HERE.
Created with Stitch Fiddle: www.StitchFiddle.com Want an applique that you can use to embellish anything from blankets to purses? Check out this free Flamingo Applique pattern by Kerri’s Crochet. You’ll want to put it on everything. Get the free pattern HERE.
Want to wear your flamingo? The Friendly Red Fox has got you covered with this Flamingo Style Crochet Hat Pattern that is so cute it hurts. Check out the free pattern HERE.
This Crochet Flamingo Ornament from Stellas’s Yarn Universe is perfection. I kind of want to make 50 of them and cover my tree in them. There is even a version with a santa hat guy! I just can’t handle it’s cuteness. Check out the free pattern HERE.
Looking for a cute flamingo amigurumi project? Check out this free Flamingo Amigurumi Pattern by Sir Purl Grey HERE.
Thanks for reading! I hope you enjoyed this round up of free flamingo crochet patterns. Want to see more great pattern round ups? Check out this round up of Must Make Summer Crochet Patterns or my Spring Shawl and Wrap Round Up
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The Catena Hat by Designs by Diligence
This week I can’t wait to introduce you to Julia Schwartz of Designs by Diligence. Julia is a talented maker living in Kansas and she has shared her great Catena Hat crochet pattern with us this week. I’ve interviewed her so you all can get to know this lovely maker better. The links to Julia’s social media profiles are at the end of the post so please go give her some love and a follow as a thank you for the free pattern.
Tell me a little bit about yourself.
I’m a midwest girl who loves to create. I’ve recently just moved back to the midwest after being in Toronto, Canada for the last 5 years. My husband is a preacher at a local church. I also have 2 daughters who also have the creating bug. I love learning new things and teaching so having a blog has been a great fit for me.
How long have you been crocheting?
My mom taught me to crochet when I started college back in 2003. I’m a fidgeter and I picked at my nails so I was looking for something that I could keep my hands busy. When I was a little girl she taught me how to sew so it was a natural progression. A few years later my mother-inlaw taught me how to knit. Knitting was really slow for me and I had a hard time enjoying it. When I moved to Canada I gave knitting another try. After lots of practice I can now say that I’m just as fast on knitting as crochet and I probably knit more now than I crochet. I love that I can use different muscles and hands for each craft. It helps with pain and flexibility when I can switch from one to the other on a given day.
Are there any other crafts that you enjoy doing?
I love any and all of the fiber arts. I also like baking and card making. I tell people if I’m using creativity and my hands I probably love doing it.
What is your favourite thing to crochet?
A lot of people talk about being process or project oriented when creating. I’m very project oriented. I like to get done and move on to something else, so I tend to do smaller projects. Even with blankets I would much rather make squares and sew them together than just making a giant blanket. With all that said, my favorite makes are hats.
When did you start pursuing a business as a maker and why?
Back in 2011, I had just joined Ravelry. I had already been making my own improvised patterns and building on patterns that already existed. There was a call for submissions for a new online crochet magazine called Crochetvolution. I decided to submit something, and the pattern was
accepted. I worked with the magazine for 2 years and the writing bug struck. I decided to start a blog to put my other ideas and patterns on. I had no idea that people made money from these things and it has been a learning experience since then as I try and make a business out of
what I love.What are your aspirations for your business?
I don’t have any huge aspirations for my business. In the end I want people to say that I taught them new things and I gave them the desire to try new things. Fiber arts has a huge rich history that I love and I’m just happy to be a part of that. I can’t wait for my girls to grow up and find a love for it too. Through having a business I hope I’m showing them that they can reach and work for what they want and achieve it.
How do you organize yourself and stick to your goals?
I usually have one crochet project, one knitting project, and one on the go project that I’m working on. I have a weekly schedule that I try and follow so I can publish 2 patterns a month. Sticking to the schedule really helps me focus on the important things that have to get done. For organizing I use secret pinterest boards and google docs to collect my thoughts. I have also
started using Stitch Fiddle for chart making, that have been a game changer for me when I want to remember ideas. I also try and follow other publishing schedules of the different fiber arts magazines that are out there.What tips would you give to someone wanting to start out with a maker business?
Don’t be afraid of “ oversaturating the market.” Everyone has creativity and has something to bring to the table. You are going to have something new and something that is yours, that alone makes it special.
What are your biggest struggles as a maker?
I have a lot of imposter syndrome. Especially when I find a mistake in one of my patterns. I feel terrible, and I wonder why I keep designing. I have to remind myself that I have something to show and I do have a lot of knowledge about fiber arts. Everyone starts somewhere and everyone deserves grace, even myself.
Where does your inspiration come from?
I get a lot of inspiration in art in general. I love working with different texture and lines. Lately tile work and rugs have been where I have been getting my ideas from. Also just life in general is inspiration. When there is a need that arises I always think of ways to solve it with yarn.
What’s your favourite yarn/fibre to work with?
I just like yarn, but don’t we all. I would much rather work with fingering weight yarn than any other size. I’m pretty in love with any kind of super wash merino wool.
Who inspires you? Who are your favourite makers?
For Crochet: Kim Guzman: She is the Tunisian crochet queen. Her youtube videos are my go to when I need to remember how to do something. She is a wonderful advocate of other crochet designers, and I love her crochet group Only Free Crochet Patterns. It’s a no drama no extra group.
Heather Anderson from the Unraveled mitten: I met her a few years ago in a blogging group. She set her mind to starting a crochet blog and she did it, very successfully. She loves cables and texture just like me.
For knitting I love the gals from Tin Can Knits. They make beautiful well thought out patterns. Not just their finished products but also their PDFs when you purchase from them you know you are getting high quality work.What are your favourite tools?
I love a well planned out project bag. I like to make big drawstring bags to put my wips in. In each bag I put everything I will need for the project, so the hook, needles, darning needle, measuring tape, printed pattern, stitch markers, scissors, and of course yarn. With that said I have lots of everything and sometimes I still can’t find what I need. The tools that I use more than anything else would be my addi interchangeable set for knitting and crochet. It was an investment but it was well worth it. I use the crochet hooks even when I’m not working on Tunisian projects.
If time and money were not an issue, what would your dream project be?
My dream crochet project would be to make the Reminisce Sweater by Heide May, with a Knit Picks Dk. But of course i would find some way to add some texture somewhere.
Anything else you’d like to tell us about? (i.e. exciting future projects, fun tidbits, etc.)
I am in the beginning stages of making a CAL for the crochet version of Welsley Hat. The Project will be called the Ansley Hat. The CAL will be hosted on my Facebook page and Instagram, so you can be on the look-out for that. I also live on Pinterest so I would love to follow you.
Check out the links to find Julia on social media and links to her blog at the bottom of this post! Up next, Julia’s pattern for the Catena Hat.
You can get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE in Julia’s Ravelry shop.
Catena Hat Crochet Pattern
Materials Needed
Bernat Softee Baby 100% acrylic, 4.25 oz./ 120 g., 310 yrds/ 283 m.
Hook: 4.00 mm, US G/6
Tapestry needle
Size: Adult (21 inches)
Gauge: 18 hdc x 14 rows = 4 in/ 10 cm
Stitches Used: Chain (ch), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Slip Stitch (sl st), Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc), Front Post Double Crochet 2 together (fpdc2tog)Notes:
● This hat is worked flat using short rows.
● Testers made a note that the fpdc stitches liked to pull the fibric tight. To keep gauge keep your fpdc stitches loose and pull them up to meet the height of the current row.Row 1: Ch 37, sk 1 ch, hdc in each chain for a total of 36 hdc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 35 hdc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in the next 33 sts. (34 hdc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 3 sts, make a fpdc around the 6th hdc of row 2, sk1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 hdc of the current row, make a fpdc around the 6th hdc of row 2, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts. (31 hdc, 2 fpdc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sl st into the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 31 sts. (32 hdc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of row 4, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 5 hdc of the current row, fpdc around the fpdc of row 4, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts. (29 hdc, 2
fpdc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in each of the same st as the last sl st, hdc in the next 29 sts. (30 hdc)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of row 6, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 hdc of the current row, fpdc around the fpdc of row 6, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts. (27 hdc, 2
fpdc)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in each of the same st as the last sl st, hdc in the next 27 sts. (28 hdc)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, fpdc2tog around the 2 fpdc of row 8, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, (26 hdc, 1 fpdc2tog)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts. (26 hdc)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the right post of the fpdc2tog of row 10, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the left post of the fpdc2tog of row 10, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 18 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 hdc (those skipped at the ends of the previous rows). (24 hdc, 2 fpdc, plus 10 hdc at the end= 36 sts)
Row 13: Ch 1 turn, sl st into the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts. (35 hdc)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around fpdc of row 12, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 5 hdc of current row, fpdc around fpdc of row 12, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts. (32 hdc, 2 fpdc)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts. (33 hdc)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of row 14, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 hdc of the current row, fpdc around the fpdc of row 14, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 23 sts. (30 hdc, 2 fpdc sts)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts. (31 hdc)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, fpdc2tog around each of the fpdc of row 8, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 23 sts, (29 hdc, 1 fpdc2tog)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts. (29 hdc)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the right post of the fpdc2tog of row 18, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the left post of the fpdc2tog of row 18, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 21 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 hdc (those skipped in the previous rows). (36 sts)
Continue, repeating rows 13- 20 4 more times.
At the end of row 52, finish off leaving a long tail. Using the long tail, whip stitch the two edges together to form the hat. Cinch closed the opening at the top of the hat. Weave in your ends.Enjoy your finished Catena Hat!
Copyright: Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com
Want to know where to find this talented maker? You can find Julia and Designs by Diligence at the links below:
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/julia-schwartz
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/julia.diligence/
Facebook:www.facebook.com/designsbydiligence
Pinterest:www.pinterest.com/diligence
Blog:www.designsbydiligence.comWant to meet some other talented makers? Check out the features for Osage County Crochet and Sharky Knows Crochet!
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Flamin-To-Go Cup Cozy Pattern
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post and all opinions are my own. Flamingos are really popular this summer and I can’t resist them. I came up with the flamingo cup cozy because I wanted a cute cup cozy that was a little goofy at the same time. This is a beginner crochet pattern but you’ll need to know amigurumi basics like working in a continuous round and single crochet increasing to make the beak. So let’s cut the squawking and get down to making this cute flamingo cup cozy.
The skills you’ll need in order to be able to complete this cozy are:
Chain, Single crochet, Half Double Crochet, Slip Stitch, Single Crochet Increase, working in the Back Loops Only (BLO) and colour changes. You’ll also need to know how to sew on some buttons and weave in your ends.This cozy makes a great gift for others (and yourself! *wink*) and works up quick for markets, craft fairs and etsy shops.
An ad-free PDF version of this pattern can be found HERE on Etsy and HERE on Ravelry.
Skill Level: Beginner
Supplies:
3.5 mm hook
4 mm hook
Red Heart Super Saver in Flamingo (0.6 oz/32 yards), Black (0.15 oz/8 yards) and White (0.4 oz/2.5 yards)
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker
9mm Black Mushroom/Shank Buttons
Polyester Stuffing
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
HDC = Half Double Crochet
SL ST = Slip Stitch
BLO = Back Loops Only
FO = Finish OffSize: One Size
Finished size: 2.5 inches tall x 4 inches wide. Measurements do not include beak.Cup Cozy Gauge: 6 rows x 9 stitches x 2” square
Beak Gauge: Not important as long as the same tension is maintained throughout.
NOTES: The end of each row of the cup cozy is joined to the first stitch of the row with a sl st.
The beak is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of each round. A stitch marker is utilized to mark the beginning of each round and is moved up with each new round.Flamin-To-Go Cup Cozy Pattern
Coffee Cozy Body
Using 4mm hook and Flamingo, CH 35 and join with a sl st to the first CH, taking care not to twist.
Row 1: CH1. HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (35)
Rows 2 – 8: CH1. HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (35)
FO and weave in ends.Beak
Row 1: Using Black and 3.5mm hook, MC 6 (6)
Row 2: SC around (6)
Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 2 (8)
Row 4: SC around (8)
Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 2 (10)
Row 6: SC around (10)
Row 7: (SC 4, SCINC) x 2 (12)
Row 8: SC around (12)
Row 9: (SC 5, SCINC) x 2 (14)
Change to white
Row 10: In BLO, SC around (14)
Row 11: (SC 6, SCINC) x 2 (16)
Row 12: SC around (16)
FO leaving a long tail and sew onto the cozy. Sew the beak onto the cozy.
Assembly
Sew the eyes on to the cozy into the row above there the top of the beak is with 5 stitches in between them
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like Cup Cozies? Try my Sloth Coffee Cozy Pattern too.
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Free Summer Crochet Pattern Round Up
Let’s be real for a second. Some people think that crochet is a fall and winter thing and projects are limited to winter wear and accessories. That could not be further from the truth! There are so many gorgeous summer crochet patterns out there that my personal to-make list is out of control! I’ve gathered some popular and beautiful free crochet patterns specifically for summer here in this round up for you to check out.
The Rainbow Shawlette crochet pattern from Knitter Knotter is light, airy and perfect for the warmer weather. Check out the free pattern HERE.
This top promises to keep you cool and stylish this summer. The Open Waves Top by Loopingly Made is available in sizes XS to 4XL on her blog HERE.
This cute Beehive Bag from Evelyn and Peter Crochet would be great for day trips and trips to the beach! Check out the free crochet pattern HERE.
These crochet water balloons are a huge hit during the summer. Add a bucket and water and let the fun begin! Find the free pattern HERE on the Left in Knots blog.
Looking for a quick and easy make or something to add to your market booth? Check out the free Bloom Headband pattern by Banana Moon Studio found HERE.
This Butterfly Amigurumi Pattern by Loops and Love Crochet is way too cute not to share. Perfect for the kids on your list. The free pattern can be found HERE.
How cute is this Dragonfly Tee by Desamour Designs? I love the contrasting band in the middle! If you want to check it out, the pattern can be found HERE.
Ashley from A Crafty Concept has this adorable Lemon Pillow pattern for free on her blog and it is giving me all the summer feels. You can find the pattern HERE.
This striped tunisian bow tie for kids is a quick and easy project that is festive and fun. Check out the free pattern HERE by Noors Knits
This She Sells Sea Shells Top by E’Claire Makery is super cute and is available in sizes XS to 5x HERE.
Thanks for reading! I hope you enjoyed this round up. Looking for more great free summer patterns? Check out this other round up of Must Make Summer Crochet Patterns.
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