• Product Reviews

    Hawthorne Fingering Yarn Review: Hand-Paint Speckle

    Two hanks of We Crochet Hawthorne Fingering Weight Yarn with a Furls Crochet hook with a text overlay indicating this is a Hawthorne Fingering Yarn Review.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I was recently sent some Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle yarn’s newest colourways from We Crochet (crochet.com) to try out and I decided to share with you my experience working with it in this Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle Yarn Review

    This yarn was provided to me free of charge but all opinions are my own.

    Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle Yarn is, like the name suggests a fingering weight, size 1 yarn. Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle yarn is a 80% Fine Superwash HighlandWool, 20% Polyamide (Nylon) blend. It currently comes in a 100g hank which contains 357 yards of yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable, which is a feature that I always appreciate in a yarn!

    Keep in mind that when ordering that because the speckles are hand-painted, the colours may vary from skein to skein. So, as with hand-dyed/indie dyed yarn, if you get two skeins that have noticeable colour differences, alternate using the skeins every row or every few rows so your project looks more cohesive.

    Crochet swatch made with Hawthorne Fingering yarn in panel tone with a furls crochet hook on top.
    Swatch done in Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle in Panel Tone Speckle.
    Alpha Series Hook by Furls Crochet

    The recommended hook sizes for this yarn is 2.25mm – 3.5mm (2.25mm – 3.25mm needle for all you knitters out there). You can definitely get away with a bigger hook with this yarn. I am currently working with it using a 4.5mm hook and love the look of it. It has great stitch definition. The crochet gauge information on the label (using the recommended hook sizes) is as follows:

    • Crochet Gauge: 21 – 32 SCs = 4″
    Crochet swatch made with panel tone speckle yarn which is part of this Yarn Review
    Crochet swatch created with Hawthorne Fingering yarn in Panel Tone Speckle

    If you’re planning on buying some Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle Yarn, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.

    We Crochet Hawthorne Fingering Weight Hand Speckle Yarns in Cobbler Speckle and Pantone Speckle

    Check out the video version of this review below:

    Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle Yarn Colours

    I was sent two colours to try, Panel Tone and Cobbler Speckle. The Panel Tone and Cobbler Speckle are two of the latest colourways and they are absolutely beautiful. In the past, I’ve had a love/hate relationship with variegated or speckled yarns. I love the way it looks in the hank or skein but then I can never find a project that works with the yarn in a way that appeals to me. I’ve bought many pretty multi-coloured yarns with good intentions, only to get frustrated and abandon the project or gift the yarn to someone else. But this yarn has definitely made me reconsider. Working up the swatches, the neutral/subtle base colour really helps highlight the speckles and they look so pretty, even in the small swatches that I did. I even decided to start a design with one and I haven’t been able to put it down. Currently on the We Crochet website, there are 15 different colourways available in this yarn.

    Crochet Swatch with an alpha series crochet hook laid on top of it.
    Crochet swatch worked in Hawthorned Fingering Berry Speckle
    Alpha Series Hook from Furls Crochet

    Of the two colourways I was sent, the Cobbler Speckle is my favourite. I want to keep calling it berry cobbler because that’s what it reminds me of. It makes me think of spring time and fresh berries and the first warm breeze of the spring season. Yes, a yarn made me feel all that and I loved it, ok?! Honestly, it’s absolutely beautiful and I can’t wait to see the finished project in all it’s berry speckled glory.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Crochet swatch created in Hawthorne Fingering Weight Cobbler Speckle
    Crochet swatch worked up in the Cobbler Speckle colourway of Hawthorne Fingering Yarn from We Crochet

    Hawthorne Fingering Yarn Review: What Does it Feel Like?

    Let’s chat about how this yarn feels. I hear from a lot of people that they are hesitant to order yarn online because they want to be able to touch the yarn. I get it. I’m a serial yarn squisher and have definitely put off some online orders just because I wasn’t sure if I would like how it felt.

    I was honestly surprised by how soft this yarn felt. I’ve worked with some highland wool blends before that were quite scratchy so I was surprised to find that this yarn was soft. I definitley will wear this in a project next to bare skin and do not anticipate my sensitive skin to be irriated by it. This yarn has been really enjoyable to work with. I’m working on a design with it currently and haven’t had any issues with it feeling scratchy, irritating my skin or being unpleasant. In fact, I can’t wait to use it!

    Have you tried Hawthorne Fingering Hand-Paint Speckle yarn yet? What did you think? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

    I hope you enjoyed my Hawthorne Fingering Yarn Review! While you’re here check out some of my other reviews:

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll with Clothes: My Dolly Molly – Part 3

    Crochet doll with clothes next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3

    My Dolly Molly Crochet doll with some furls crochet hooks and yarn.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back view of the crochet doll with clothes made with this free crochet pattern

    Pattern

    Hair

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45)
    Round 9: SC around (45)
    Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains.  SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail.  Weave in ends.

    NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH.  To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand.  For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – Part 2

    Crochet doll  next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a crochet doll free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    • Part One: Body
    • Part Two: Arms, Embroidery and Dress
    • Part Three: Hair

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    My Dolly Molly with a furls crochet hook and some yarn, made with this crochet doll free pattern.

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Adding Eyelashes

    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Close up of doll's face with arrows indicating where to place needle when embroidering eyelashes.
    completed eyelashes on crochet doll


    Nose

    Take a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches.  Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly.  FO and weave in end.

    Close up of the crochet doll nose on My Dolly Molly

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.



    Arms (make two)

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go.
    Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9)
    Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11)
    Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.

    Molly the Dolly an her dress made with this crochet doll free pattern



    Dress

    Using Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37
    Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST and CH across (32)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36)
    Row 7: CH 6 and turn.  SC in each ST across (36)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40)
    Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. (40)

    Amigurumi doll dress for this crochet doll free pattern


    Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40)
    Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60)
    Row 16: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  (80)
    Row 17: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (100)
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (120)
    FO and weave in ends.  The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress.  Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7.  Put dress on doll and fasten.

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Crochet doll made with this amigurumi doll pattern with a text overlay indicating this is a free crochet pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my amigurumi doll pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This amigurumi doll pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part One of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The free crochet doll pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Back of the amigurumi doll pattern showing the fastening of the doll's dress.

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Amigurumi Doll Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Leg 1

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.

    Place a stitch marker into the 3rd ST of the last round of the leg.  FO but do not weave in your end.

    Leg 2

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.


    Do NOT FO.  We will continue onto the body now.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Picture of the completed amigurumi doll body without it's hair and dress.

    Body

    Round 1: Working into the top of the 2nd leg, SC 8, CH 1, SC into the 3rd ST of the last round of the first leg.  SC 11 around the first leg, CH 1 and SC in the last 4 STs of the 2nd leg. (26)
    Pull the end from finishing off the first leg through the hole between the two legs and use it to sew up the hole.
    Round 2:  SC in each ST around (26)
    Round 3: SC 7, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 4 (29)
    Round 4: SC around (29)
    Round 5: SC 7, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 15 (32)
    Rounds 6 – 9: SC around (32)
    Round 10: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 2 (28)
    Round 11: SC around (28)
    Round 12: SC 11, SCDEC, SC 15 (27)
    Round 13: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 7 (25) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 14: SC around (25)
    Round 15: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 6 (23)
    Round 16: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 7 (21)

    Round 17: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 5 (19)
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 4 (17)
    Round 19: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 3 (15)
    Round 20: SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC, SC 2 (12)
    Round 21: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Round 23: SC, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 24: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 25: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 26: SC around (36)
    Round 27: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Rounds 28 – 29: SC around (42)
    Round 30: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 31 – 32: SC around (48)
    Round 33: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) – Place safety eyes in Round 33 with 7 sts in between them
    Rounds 34 – 35: SC around (42)
    Round 36: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 37:  SC around (36)
    Round 38: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5,  SC 2 (30)
    Round 39: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 40: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Round 41: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 42: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and weave in ends. 

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Product Reviews

    Chroma Twist Worsted Weight Yarn Review

    Two skeins of Chroma Twist Worsted Weight Yarn with some crochet accessories.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I was recently sent some of the new yarn called Chroma Twist Worsted Weight from We Crochet (crochet.com) to try out and I decided to share with you my experience working with it in this Chroma Twist Worsted Weight Yarn Review.

    This yarn was provided to me free of charge but all opinions are my own.

    Chroma Twist Worsted Weight is, like the name suggests a worsted weight, size 4 yarn. The yarn strand changes from thick to thin in order to mimic handspun yarn and per the We Crochet website, no two balls are the same. Normally I’m not a huge fan of yarns that change from thick to thin throughout the skein but the change between the thick and thin spots wasn’t overly noticeable as I worked through my swatches. When I went back and looked at my swatches, the spots where the yarn got thinner were almost indistinguishable. I did do a closed stitch pattern for my swatches so this may be more noticeable in an open stitch pattern.

    Chroma Twist Worsted Weight is a 70% Superwash Wool, 30% Nylon blend. It currently comes in a 100g ball which contains 218 yards of yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable, which is a feature that I can always appreciate!

    The recommended hook sizes for this yarn is 5.5mm – 6.5mm (4mm – 5.5mm needle for all you knitters out there). The gauge information on the label (using the recommended hook/needle sizes) are as follows:

    • Crochet Gauge: 11 – 14 SCs = 4″
    • Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″
    Crochet swatch with a wooden crochet hook on top, made with Chroma Twist Worsted Weight yarn in Wednesday.

    If you’re planning on buying some Chroma Twist Worsted Weight Yarn, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.

    This yarn is a two-ply twist yarn where two plies from the same colourway are twisted together. This ply is more visually obvious in some spots of the yarn than others but overall the because the twists are from the same colourway, it creates a more subtle change to the colours than other twisted yarns I’ve worked with, like Lion Brand Mandala Tweed (see my review of that yarn HERE).

    Check out the video version of this review below:

    Chroma Twist Worsted Weight Colour Transition

    The colour transition in the Chroma Twist Worsted Weight was very subtle and created a gorgeous ombre effect. I was sent two colours to try, Wednesday and Narwal. I worked on my swatches after the kids went to bed one evening and while making my swatch with the Wednesday colourway, I kept waiting to notice the colour transition. The next morning when I had better lighting, I noticed the beautiful fade from charcoal grey to light grey in my swatch. The change happened so subtlely that you can barely even tell where the colour transitioned from one to the next. The same thing happened with the Narwhal colourway. Subtle, beautiful colour transition. Currently on the We Crochet website, there are 10 different colourways available in this yarn.

    Ombre crochet swatch in black and grey

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Crochet Swatch of Chroma Twist Worsted Weight in Narwal

    What Does it Feel Like?

    Let’s chat about how this yarn feels. I hear from a lot of people that they are hesitant to order yarn online because they want to be able to touch the yarn. I get it. I’m a serial yarn squisher and have definitely put off some online orders just because I wasn’t sure if I would like how it felt.

    Furls crochet hook on top of a crochet swatch

    My first impression beyond thinking about how pretty the yarn was, was surprise at how soft it felt. For a yarn with 70% wool content, this yarn is much softer than I expected. I’d happily wear an item made from this yarn next to bare skin. It wasn’t scratchy and was thoroughly enjoyable to work with. It has some serious squish factor and I’m hoping to begin working on a design with this yarn shortly.

    Have you tried Chroma Twist Worsted Weight yarn yet? What did you think? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I realized a little while ago that I haven’t published a free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket yet but I’ve had the idea for this blanket kicking around in my head for some time. I decided to finally make the idea a reality and I’m thrilled with how it turned out. This is my first corner to corner blanket design and I really enjoyed creating the chart and trying out different techniques to find which C2C technique that I preferred.

    I always struggle with naming my projects and this C2C blanket was no exception. After a lot of thought, I just couldn’t come up with anything fitting. I kept coming back to thinking of Greece (one of my top dream destinations to travel to) because the combination of blue and white always seems to remind me of Greece. Growing up I had always been fascinated by Greek mythology and while was finishing my blanket I saw one of my greek mythology texts on the shelf and considered getting it back out and revisiting a few favourites. Then I looked down at my blanket and thought “it’s all Greek to Me” and decided that would be it’s name. I figured it was fitting since I just couldn’t get away from thoughts of Greece everytime I see the colour combo. And that’s how I came up with the name for this C2C blanket pattern. Not the most scientific or artistic process but it works for me lol.

    close up image of the texture on this Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    If you’re new to corner to corner crochet check out my tutorials to learn the basics you’ll need to know in order to do this pattern.



    Corner to Corner Basics: How to Crochet Corner to Corner




    Changing Colours in Corner to Corner

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.



    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology
    Woman holding a navy blue and white C2C blanket across her shoulders

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or the links in the supplies list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • WS = Wrong Side
    • RS = Right Side
    • FO = Finish Off
    Blue and White Corner to Corner Blanket Made with the It's All Greek to Me C2C Pattern


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 44” Long by 34” wide

    Gauge:

    • 9 squares x 9 squares = 5 inches


    NOTES:

    • To work this corner to corner (C2C) graph, begin with the box/tile in the bottom right corner of the graph.  That will be your Row 1. The graph will be read from left to right and then right to left.
    • Each box/tile in the graph corresponds to with one C2C cluster in your row.  A C2C cluster = CH 2 + 3 DC sts.
    • I recommend crossing off each row in the pattern or graph as you complete it to assist you in keeping track.
    • WS and RS are labelled next to each row number on the ad-free PDF version of this pattern to indicate whether you are working with the WS or RS facing you. The arrows indicate in which direction you are working.

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket: It’s All Greek to Me C2C Blanket

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket - Graph

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket! While you’re here, check out some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket, Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket, Mad About Boo Pillow, Otis the Owl, Salty the Seal. Find all my free crochet patterns HERE.

  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie Review

    Copy of the book Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie and an amigurumi cardinal made using a pattern in the book.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I was recently given the opportunity to review Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie. In this book, Vanessa Mooncie provides the designs for 10 gorgeous, realistic amigurumi birds. Keep reading to learn more about this book and how you can enter to win a copy of the book.

    I have been a long-time admirer of Vanessa Mooncie’s work when I stumbled across her on Instagram and saw this beautiful picture of a show-stopping crochet barn owl. As an absolute owl-fanatic, I was hooked. I later learned that the pattern for that same crochet barn owl is in this book Crocheted Birds: A Flock of Feathered Friends to Make by Vanessa Mooncie. So when the chance to review this book became available, I was obviously all over it.

    Pin this for later SAVE

    The designs in this book are absolutely gorgeous. I seriously love them. These designs aren’t your standard amigurumi designs though. They are meticiulously constructed and more of an art piece than a toy. The list of supplies needed for each bird is a little more extensive than you may expect because the designs utilize various gauges of wires which would require you to utilize pliers, glass teddy bear buttons for eyes and adhesives. Because of the wires and the glass eyes, these projects wouldn’t be appropriate to give to young children.

    Check out the video version of this review here:

    A copy of the Vanessa Mooncie Book Crocheted Birds with some furls crochet hooks and scissors

    Patterns are given in Crocheted Birds for the following birds:

    • Blackbird
    • Robin
    • Blue Tit
    • Wren
    • Budgie
    • Dove
    • Cardinal
    • Swan
    • Bald Eagle
    • Barn Owl
    Crocheted barn owl page inside the Crocheted Birds Book
    Crocheted Blue Tit Bird pattern image

    The projects are a variety of sizes. The largest being the bald eagle, followed by the swan. My favourite design is the barn owl but the swan is a close second. The designs to create realistic bird eggs for each bird species in the book are also included.

    Most people won’t have everything in their house to make the birds exactly as written but to get the desired effect, it’s worth the time to get the supplies. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, I was unable to obtain all the supplies necessary to make the birds exactly as written. But, I didn’t let that stop me. Knowing that my bird wouldn’t be exactly like the book, I decided to try one of the patterns with what I had on hand. I decided to give the cardinal a try since I had some red and black yarn on hand and after reading through the pattern, I figured I could accomplish something similar with my on hand materials.

    Image of the crochet cardinal available in the Crocheted Birds book

    The pattern worked up quickly and the techniques that are used in creating the patterns in this book really gave me an education in looking at amigurumi shaping in a completely different way. Rather than just working in rounds, short rows are used to assist in chaping the bird and creating the main part of the bird all in one piece. Despite the fact that I had never done amigurumi in this way, the pattern was clear and easy to understand. Charts are included for all of the patterns in this book to assist with ensuring the patterns are understood but honestly, I didn’t even need them.

    Crochet Cardinal on a white background

    Even without the exact same materials, my crochet cardinal turned out incredibly and I am really happy with how he turned out. I will probably make another one once I’m able tot get the proper wires because the legs on this one aren’t as strong as I’d like them to be, but I knew that was a possibility because I didn’t have the right materials on hand.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The book is written in UK terminology and after looking for it, I found that a UK to US terminology conversion chart was included in the resource section in the back of the Crocheted Birds book. The resource section itself was well instrated, helpful and just, well, cool. There is a section that shows you step-by-step how to make the birds’ legs and as I’ve never attempted to make birds’ legs from wire, I found it really cool how it was accomplished. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The illustrations that accompanied the instructions were really helpful.

    Back Cover of the book showing some of the patterns inside.

    I think this book is best suited for intermediate level crocheters. Although there are great resources available in the book to assist you in creating the projects in Crochet Birds, ultimately, despite the clear instructions, I think the construction techniques may be confusing to beginners, and leave them frustrated.

    I absolutely love this book and it has become one of my favourite pattern books that I’ve come across in a while. Not only are the designs gorgeous, the book has taught me a few things and the unique construction of each bird kept me thoroughly engaged and interested from beginning to end. If you’re interested in birds, amigurumi or even just trying different amigurumi shaping techniques, this is a beautiful addition to your crochet library.

    If you want to check out Crocheted Birds: A Flock of Feathers Friends to Make by Vanessa Mooncie you can grab a copy of the book HERE.

    Follow Vanessa Mooncie, the author/designer of this book on Instagram: @vanessamooncie. I’ve also reviewed another book by Vanessa Mooncie called Simple Crocheted Hats. You can check out that review HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog: Kawaii Crochet by Melissa Bradley, Weekend Makes, Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond, Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, The Crocheter’s Skill-Building Workshop by Dora Ohrenstein. You can find all my crochet book reviews HERE.

    Crocheted Birds Book Giveaway

    Front cover of the book Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie

    Thanks to GMC Publications, I have a copy of this beautiful book to giveaway to one lucky winner.

    The Crocheted Birds Book Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to Canadian and U.S. participants and ends Friday, June 19, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal

    This free crochet seal pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    This week I want to share my free crochet seal pattern for my new little friend Salty the Seal and her baby seal pups. Salty the Seal is a sweet and cuddly seal with big beautiful eyes that is curious and loves to go on adventures with her baby seals. Salty and her baby seals have been a big hit with my kids so far and I think you’ll enjoy them too. I’ve designed this crochet seal pattern to minimize the amount of sewing needed. I know that sewing on parts is usually something that deters people from making amigurumi toys and I wanted to create something that required very little sewing.

    Pin it for later Save

    close up image of the face of the amigurumi seal made with this free pattern

    Salty is made with Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet. I absolutely love, love, LOVE creating amigurumi patterns with this faux fur yarn. It was seriously love at first squeeze. I have been so inspired by this yarn that I can’t stop making amigurumi projects with it. I’ve already published some of the free amigurumi projects that I’ve created using faux fur yarn and I have more to come. If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here: Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth and Otis the Owl.

    As I mentioned earlier, this crochet seal pattern is designed to minimize the sewing. Salty is worked from the head to the tail in one piece. You’ll start by creating the head, then the body and the tail as a single piece and seaming the tail closed. Then you’ll create each of Salty’s fins working in rows and those will be the only pieces that you’ll sew onto this project. Combine the minimal sewing with the fact that the Fable Fur yarn is a bulky weight yarn, this crochet seal pattern is a really quick make.

    The baby seals are made using the same pattern but instead of the 5.5mm hook with the Fable Fur yarn, you’ll be using a 3.5mm crochet hook and Brava Worsted yarn. The safety eyes and nose needed for the babies are signifcantly smaller than those used for Salty. You’ll need 10mm eyes and a 8mm safety nose for each baby seal.

    crochet baby seals held in someone's hands

    Salty the Seal measures approximately 10 inches tall. She is a great cuddle-sized toy for little ones. However, please note that if you’re giving an amigurumi toy with safety eyes in it to a little person, please be aware that the safety eyes can be a choking hazard for little ones that may put them in their mouth. The baby seals measure approximately 4.5 inches tall.

    I love the safety eyes that I used in this crochet seal pattern. I used 24mm glitter safety eyes that I got from a local maker that has an Etsy shop called Chateau Bornais Crochet. I had been struggling to find safety eyes that looked a specific way and I just couldn’t find them anywhere. I sent a message to Rebekah from Chateau Bornais Crochet and not only did she have EXACTLY what I was looking for, she helped me get the exact colour I wanted as well. Since then, I’ve used her safety eyes in a few of my other amigurumi patterns (that will be releasing soon) and they have been fabulous. You can check out her Etsy shop HERE.

    The tools I used in this project were generously supplied by Clover USA. I used their Clover Amour Crochet hooks, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle, Locking Stitch Markers and Patchwork Mini Scissors. All of these tools have become part of my go-to toolbox. All of these tools are really great quality and enjoyable to use. Locking stitch markers are an absolute necessity (in my opinion) when making amigurumi and these stitch markers never disappoint. I never realized what a game changer a bent tip tapestry needle could be until I tried them. If you do amigurumi projects regularly, then I definitely recommend checking them out.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn or if you’re nervous about trying it, check out my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn. You can read that post HERE or you can check out the video version below.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Free Crochet Seal Pattern Below:

    Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal

    Grey seal with large blue eyes made with this free crochet seal pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this crochet seal pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies for Salty the Seal:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Supplies for the Baby Seals:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished size:

    • Salty is approximately 10” Long by 7.5” wide (fin tip to fin tip)
    • Baby seals are approximately 4.5” long by 3” wide (fin tip to fin tip)

    Gauge:

    • Salty: 5 sts x 5 rows = 2 inches
    • Baby seals: 5 sts x 5.5 rows = 1 inch

    NOTES:

    • Salty the Seal is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
    • The head, body and tail fin are all working in the round and in a single piece.  The fins are worked in rows and then sewn onto either side of the body.
    • This project is worked in continuous rounds (except the fins).  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.
    • To make Salty the Seal: Follow the instructions using the Fable Fur Yarn and the 5.5mm hook. 
    • To make the Baby Seals: Follow the instructions using the Brava Worsted yarn and a 3.5mm hook.
    • Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.


    Head and Body

    Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
    Rounds 6 – 10: SC around. (30) – Insert eyes in stitches 3 and 8 of Round 6.  Insert safety nose in stitch 6 of Round 8, centered between the eyes.  I recommend placing stitch markers in these spots until you are able to attach the safety eyes.
    Round: 11: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24) – Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more after every row or two.
    Round: 12: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)
    Round 13: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)
    Round 14: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    Round 15: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 16: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18) – Continue to add stuffing every couple of rows, adding extra in the neck area for added support of the head.

    a large furry crochet seal and two baby amigurumi seals laying together on a blanket.


    Round 17: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Rounds 18 – 20: SC around. (24)
    Round 21: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)
    Round 22: SC around. (18)
    Round 23: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)
    Round 24: SC around. (12)
    Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    Round 26: (SCINC) x 2, SC, (SCINC) X 2, SC. (10)
    Round 27: SC, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 3. (14)
    Round 28: SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 5, (SCINC) x 2, SC 3. (18)
    Rounds 29 -31: SC around. (18)
    Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Finish stuffing the body but do not add any stuffing to the tail portion of the body.  Hold the two long sides of the tail fin together and sew the hole closed using a tapestry needle. 

    Fins (make 2)

    Row 1: CH 7.  SC in 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC. CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 3: SC across. CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 4: (SCDEC) x 2. CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 5: SC across. (2)
    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the body, just below the neck.

    Finishing Touches for Salty the Seal

    The fur may cover up the eyes and nose a bit so use your fingers to smooth the fur away from the eyes and nose. Use a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face to clean up any fur that may overlap the nose and eyes.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Salty the Seal made with this free crochet seal pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys Review

    Front cover of Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond with a text overlay indicating the book has been reviewed.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I was recently given the opportunity to review Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys – 25 Quick and Easy Projects to Make by Emma Osmond. In this book, Emma Osmond provides the designs for 25 amigurumi projects that should be able to be completed in a weekend. Keep reading to learn more about this book and how you can enter to win a copy of this book.

    Pin this for later SAVE

    This book starts off with the standard section you find in all crochet pattern books: a resource section. Step-by-step instructions are provided for the stitches and techniques utilized in the book. The illustrations are clear and easy to follow. The instructions accompanying the illustrastions could be a little bit clearer but the illustrations get the point across well enough. The book is written in UK crochet terminology however, charts to convert the UK terminology and hook sizes to U.S. terminology and hook sizes are included.

    The projects included in the book are a variety of items for young childen. Some of the projects include:

    • Rattles
    • Mobiles
    • Stuffed Animals (Teddy Bear, Rabbit, Octopus, Girafe, Elephant, Unicorn)
    • A Toy Basket
    • A variety of different games;
    • And more.
    Inside page preview of car pattern inside Weekend Makes Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond

    I really enjoy the variety of projects in Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond. There are a few projects in this book that I think would be wonderful baby shower gifts and I would definitely add them to my baby shower project short list. Specifically the Stacking Rings toy, Cloud Cot Toy and Star Mobile.

    The skill levels in the book are described as “Easy” and “Some Experience”. “Some Experience” is not defined anywhere but “Some” implied to me that not a lot of experience would be needed to complete the project, just “some”.

    Check out the video version of this review below:

    I found the “Easy” levelled patterns to be mostly straight forward to follow. There were some points with the “Some Experience” levelled patterns where I felt like further clarification being included could have been helpful. Again, because I felt that “some experience” implied not a lot of experience, I looked at the patterns as if I was someone that had maybe a few crochet projects under my belt or even a year of experience casually crocheting. When making the Star Mobile pattern, I didn’t feel like a beginner would necessarily understand how to create the center of the star appropriately. I have done a star shape previously and was therefore, able to fill in the blanks that would have existed for someone without that experience. Because of that, I can’t recommend the book for beginner crocheters but if you have a decent amount of experience doing a variety of amigurumi projects then I think you could really enjoy this book.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Overall, the patterns should be relatively quick makes. There are a couple of patterns, specifically the Skittles bowling game and the Colour Game that I doubt I’d be capable of completing in a weekend. For those two patterns specifically, I’d probably have to do nothing else that weekend to get them completed but hey, if you’re quicker and have got some extra time, you may be able to get them done. The Skittles bowling game is really fun so although I may not have been able to complete it in a weekend, I would definitely still want to make it.

    Crochet Stacking Ring toy picture inside Weekend Makes Crocheted Toys.

    The projects in Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys are whimsical and full of colour. My youngest found several projects to request after only a moment or two with the book. Even my son who is almost 6 made a request or two. Because of the variety, I think you could find something to please young kids at a variety of stages. The variety of project types means that you shouldn’t be bored quickly either. The stuffed animals in this book are a good size and could be customized pretty easily as well, by experienced crocheters.

    Overall, if you’re looking for a boredom buster or a project book that could act as a quick resource for a last minute baby shower/kid’s birthday gift, then Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond could be exactly what you’re looking for.

    If you want to check out Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond you can grab a copy of the book HERE.

    Crochet bowling set image with a furls crochet hook and yarn.

    Check out some of my other crochet book reviews while you’re here:
    Simple Crocheted Hats by Vanessa Mooncie, Kawaii Crochet by Melissa Bradley, Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, Snuggle and Play Crochet and Crochet Mini Animals Kit Review. Find all my Crochet Book Reviews HERE.

    Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys Book Giveaway

    Thanks to GMC Publications, I have a copy of Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys to giveaway to one lucky winner.

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern: Spring Breeze Shawlette

    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    This week I decided to step outside of patterns I’m most comfortable making and bring you this crochet shawlette free pattern for my Spring Breeze Shawlette. This is my first shawlette design and I’m so excited to share it with you. It’s a quick and easy make that uses just one skein of Loops and Thread Cotton Colours yarn.

    The Loops and Thread Cotton Colours yarn is a size 4, worsted weight, 100% cotton yarn available at Michaels. It’s a self-striping yarn that is currently available in 10 different colourways here in Canada. The colourway that I used for this crochet shawlette free pattern is Snapdragon.

    Pin this Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern for later Save

    Just before the COVID-19 pandemic started, I was wandering through my local Michaels store and was pleasantly surprised to find a new selection of cotton yarns in the store. In Canada, we don’t have a lot of selection when it comes to yarns and even less if you’re looking for cotton or cotton blend yarns. So although my husband didn’t understand my excitement at the time, my fellow Canadian yarnies would definitely understand.

    Smiling woman wearing a shawl made with this crochet shawlette free pattern

    I was instantly drawn to the colours in the Snapdragon colourway and quickly added them to my basket. They were the most vibrant colours on the shelf and it has that mustardy yellow colour I love so there was no way I wasn’t going to try this yarn out.

    Once I got the yarn home, I decided that it would look pretty as a shawl or shawlette but I only wanted to use one skein and thus, this crochet shawlette free pattern was born. I tried a few different stitch combinations but I wanted something light and airy for spring and I think this open stitch it perfect for spring.

    I’ve provided instructions in the note section of this crochet shawlette free pattern on how to increase the size of your shawlette. Should you decide to make it bigger, please note that it will result in you using more yarn and you may require a second (or more) skeins to complete your project. However, if you were to make this bigger, it would be a great beach coverup to wrap around your waist.

    Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern – Spring Breeze Shawlette

    Woman holding a shawlette made with this crochet shawlette free pattern behind her back
    Woman wearing a one skein shawlette made with this crochet shawlette free pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner

    Supplies:

    Close up image of the texture in the Spring Breeze Shawlette

    Abbreviations:


    Finished size:

    • 44.5” Wide by 18.5” Deep

    Gauge:

    • 11 DC and 5 CH SPs x 8 rows = 4 inches


    NOTES:

    • CH 3s at the beginning of Rows count as first DC stitch
    • This pattern is worked from one side to the other, increasing until you reach the mid-point of the piece and then decreasing down the other side of the project.  If you want to make your project bigger, continue increasing in pattern stitch after Row 45 until you have reached the desired mid-point size, do two more rows that maintain the mid-point stitch count and then begin decreasing in the manner outlined beginning in Row 48.  Please note that increasing the size will result in needing more yarn than required in supply list.

    Spring Breeze Shawlette Pattern: Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern

    woman wearing a one skein shawlette over her shoulders

    CH 7
    Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each ST across.
    Row 2: Turn. CH 3 (counts as first ST here and throughout), DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 6. (4 STS, 1 CH SP)
    Row 3: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook (counts as first and 2nd STs here and throughout) CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 2, SK 2, DC in the last 2 STs. (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 4: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x2, CH 6 (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 5: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 2. (8 STS, 3CH SPS)
    Row 6: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3, CH 6 (8 STS, 3CH SPS)
    Row 7: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Row 8: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4, CH 6. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Row 9: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)
    Row 10: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5, CH 6. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)

    Smiling woman hugging a smiling child who is wearing a spring shawlette

    Row 11: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)
    Row 12: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6, CH 6. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)
    Row 13: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Row 14: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7, CH 6. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Row 15: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Row 16: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8, CH 6. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Row 17: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Row 18: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9, CH 6. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Row 19: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)
    Row 20: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10, CH 6. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)

    spring shawlette hanging on a fence with colourful bubbles in the foreground

    Row 21: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)
    Row 22: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11, CH 6. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)
    Row 23: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Row 24: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12, CH 6. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Row 25: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Row 26: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13, CH 6. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Row 27: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Row 28: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14, CH 6. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Row 29: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)
    Row 30: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15, CH 6. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)

    close up image of the crochet shawlette made with this free crochet pattern.

    Row 31: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)
    Row 32: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16, CH 6. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)
    Row 33: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Row 34: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17, CH 6. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Row 35: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Row 36: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18, CH 6. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Row 37: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Row 38: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19, CH 6. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Row 39: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)
    Row 40: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20, CH 6. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)

    crochet shawlette hung on a fence, made with one skein of loops and thread cotton colours yarn


    Row 41: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)
    Row 42: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21, CH 6. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)
    Row 43: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Row 44: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22, CH 6. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Row 45: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22. (48 STS, 23 CH SPS)
    Rows 46 – 47: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 23. (48 STS, 23 CH SPS)
    Rows 48 – 49: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Rows 50 – 51: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)


    Rows 52 – 53: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)
    Rows 54 – 55: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Rows 56 – 57: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Rows 58 – 59: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Rows 60 – 61: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)

    Woman looking off into the distance wearing a colourful shawlette made with this free crochet pattern


    Rows 62 – 63: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)
    Rows 64 – 65: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Rows 66 – 67: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Rows 68 – 69: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Rows 70 – 71: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)


    Rows 72 – 73: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)
    Rows 74 – 75: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Rows 76 – 77: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Rows 78 – 79: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Rows 80 – 81: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)

    Woman wearing a colourful one skein shawlette on her shoulders


    Rows 82 – 83: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)
    Rows 84 – 85: Turn.  CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Rows 86 – 87: Turn.  CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3. (8 STS, 3 CH SPS)
    Rows 88 – 89: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 2. (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 89: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs. (4 STS, 1 CH SP)
    Row 90: Turn.  CH 1, SC in the first two STs, SC 2 in the CH SP, SC in the remaining two STs. (6)
    FO and weave in ends.  Block.

    I hope you have enjoyed this crochet shawlette free pattern and making your own Spring Breeze Shawlette.

    While you’re here, you may enjoy some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Shawl, Otis the Owl, Rainbow Keychain Crochet Pattern, Shoreline Seeker Tote. You can find all of my available free crochet patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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