• Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

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    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I realized a little while ago that I haven’t published a free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket yet but I’ve had the idea for this blanket kicking around in my head for some time. I decided to finally make the idea a reality and I’m thrilled with how it turned out. This is my first corner to corner blanket design and I really enjoyed creating the chart and trying out different techniques to find which C2C technique that I preferred.

    I always struggle with naming my projects and this C2C blanket was no exception. After a lot of thought, I just couldn’t come up with anything fitting. I kept coming back to thinking of Greece (one of my top dream destinations to travel to) because the combination of blue and white always seems to remind me of Greece. Growing up I had always been fascinated by Greek mythology and while was finishing my blanket I saw one of my greek mythology texts on the shelf and considered getting it back out and revisiting a few favourites. Then I looked down at my blanket and thought “it’s all Greek to Me” and decided that would be it’s name. I figured it was fitting since I just couldn’t get away from thoughts of Greece everytime I see the colour combo. And that’s how I came up with the name for this C2C blanket pattern. Not the most scientific or artistic process but it works for me lol.

    close up image of the texture on this Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    If you’re new to corner to corner crochet check out my tutorials to learn the basics you’ll need to know in order to do this pattern.



    Corner to Corner Basics: How to Crochet Corner to Corner




    Changing Colours in Corner to Corner

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.



    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology
    Woman holding a navy blue and white C2C blanket across her shoulders

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or the links in the supplies list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • WS = Wrong Side
    • RS = Right Side
    • FO = Finish Off
    Blue and White Corner to Corner Blanket Made with the It's All Greek to Me C2C Pattern


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 44” Long by 34” wide

    Gauge:

    • 9 squares x 9 squares = 5 inches


    NOTES:

    • To work this corner to corner (C2C) graph, begin with the box/tile in the bottom right corner of the graph.  That will be your Row 1. The graph will be read from left to right and then right to left.
    • Each box/tile in the graph corresponds to with one C2C cluster in your row.  A C2C cluster = CH 2 + 3 DC sts.
    • I recommend crossing off each row in the pattern or graph as you complete it to assist you in keeping track.
    • WS and RS are labelled next to each row number on the ad-free PDF version of this pattern to indicate whether you are working with the WS or RS facing you. The arrows indicate in which direction you are working.

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket: It’s All Greek to Me C2C Blanket

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket - Graph

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket! While you’re here, check out some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket, Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket, Mad About Boo Pillow, Otis the Owl, Salty the Seal. Find all my free crochet patterns HERE.

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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie Review

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    Copy of the book Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie and an amigurumi cardinal made using a pattern in the book.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I was recently given the opportunity to review Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie. In this book, Vanessa Mooncie provides the designs for 10 gorgeous, realistic amigurumi birds. Keep reading to learn more about this book and how you can enter to win a copy of the book.

    I have been a long-time admirer of Vanessa Mooncie’s work when I stumbled across her on Instagram and saw this beautiful picture of a show-stopping crochet barn owl. As an absolute owl-fanatic, I was hooked. I later learned that the pattern for that same crochet barn owl is in this book Crocheted Birds: A Flock of Feathered Friends to Make by Vanessa Mooncie. So when the chance to review this book became available, I was obviously all over it.

    Pin this for later SAVE

    The designs in this book are absolutely gorgeous. I seriously love them. These designs aren’t your standard amigurumi designs though. They are meticiulously constructed and more of an art piece than a toy. The list of supplies needed for each bird is a little more extensive than you may expect because the designs utilize various gauges of wires which would require you to utilize pliers, glass teddy bear buttons for eyes and adhesives. Because of the wires and the glass eyes, these projects wouldn’t be appropriate to give to young children.

    Check out the video version of this review here:

    A copy of the Vanessa Mooncie Book Crocheted Birds with some furls crochet hooks and scissors

    Patterns are given in Crocheted Birds for the following birds:

    • Blackbird
    • Robin
    • Blue Tit
    • Wren
    • Budgie
    • Dove
    • Cardinal
    • Swan
    • Bald Eagle
    • Barn Owl
    Crocheted barn owl page inside the Crocheted Birds Book
    Crocheted Blue Tit Bird pattern image

    The projects are a variety of sizes. The largest being the bald eagle, followed by the swan. My favourite design is the barn owl but the swan is a close second. The designs to create realistic bird eggs for each bird species in the book are also included.

    Most people won’t have everything in their house to make the birds exactly as written but to get the desired effect, it’s worth the time to get the supplies. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, I was unable to obtain all the supplies necessary to make the birds exactly as written. But, I didn’t let that stop me. Knowing that my bird wouldn’t be exactly like the book, I decided to try one of the patterns with what I had on hand. I decided to give the cardinal a try since I had some red and black yarn on hand and after reading through the pattern, I figured I could accomplish something similar with my on hand materials.

    Image of the crochet cardinal available in the Crocheted Birds book

    The pattern worked up quickly and the techniques that are used in creating the patterns in this book really gave me an education in looking at amigurumi shaping in a completely different way. Rather than just working in rounds, short rows are used to assist in chaping the bird and creating the main part of the bird all in one piece. Despite the fact that I had never done amigurumi in this way, the pattern was clear and easy to understand. Charts are included for all of the patterns in this book to assist with ensuring the patterns are understood but honestly, I didn’t even need them.

    Crochet Cardinal on a white background

    Even without the exact same materials, my crochet cardinal turned out incredibly and I am really happy with how he turned out. I will probably make another one once I’m able tot get the proper wires because the legs on this one aren’t as strong as I’d like them to be, but I knew that was a possibility because I didn’t have the right materials on hand.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The book is written in UK terminology and after looking for it, I found that a UK to US terminology conversion chart was included in the resource section in the back of the Crocheted Birds book. The resource section itself was well instrated, helpful and just, well, cool. There is a section that shows you step-by-step how to make the birds’ legs and as I’ve never attempted to make birds’ legs from wire, I found it really cool how it was accomplished. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The illustrations that accompanied the instructions were really helpful.

    Back Cover of the book showing some of the patterns inside.

    I think this book is best suited for intermediate level crocheters. Although there are great resources available in the book to assist you in creating the projects in Crochet Birds, ultimately, despite the clear instructions, I think the construction techniques may be confusing to beginners, and leave them frustrated.

    I absolutely love this book and it has become one of my favourite pattern books that I’ve come across in a while. Not only are the designs gorgeous, the book has taught me a few things and the unique construction of each bird kept me thoroughly engaged and interested from beginning to end. If you’re interested in birds, amigurumi or even just trying different amigurumi shaping techniques, this is a beautiful addition to your crochet library.

    If you want to check out Crocheted Birds: A Flock of Feathers Friends to Make by Vanessa Mooncie you can grab a copy of the book HERE.

    Follow Vanessa Mooncie, the author/designer of this book on Instagram: @vanessamooncie. I’ve also reviewed another book by Vanessa Mooncie called Simple Crocheted Hats. You can check out that review HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog: Kawaii Crochet by Melissa Bradley, Weekend Makes, Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond, Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, The Crocheter’s Skill-Building Workshop by Dora Ohrenstein. You can find all my crochet book reviews HERE.

    Crocheted Birds Book Giveaway

    Front cover of the book Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie

    Thanks to GMC Publications, I have a copy of this beautiful book to giveaway to one lucky winner.

    The Crocheted Birds Book Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to Canadian and U.S. participants and ends Friday, June 19, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

    read more
  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal

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    This free crochet seal pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    This week I want to share my free crochet seal pattern for my new little friend Salty the Seal and her baby seal pups. Salty the Seal is a sweet and cuddly seal with big beautiful eyes that is curious and loves to go on adventures with her baby seals. Salty and her baby seals have been a big hit with my kids so far and I think you’ll enjoy them too. I’ve designed this crochet seal pattern to minimize the amount of sewing needed. I know that sewing on parts is usually something that deters people from making amigurumi toys and I wanted to create something that required very little sewing.

    Pin it for later Save

    close up image of the face of the amigurumi seal made with this free pattern

    Salty is made with Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet. I absolutely love, love, LOVE creating amigurumi patterns with this faux fur yarn. It was seriously love at first squeeze. I have been so inspired by this yarn that I can’t stop making amigurumi projects with it. I’ve already published some of the free amigurumi projects that I’ve created using faux fur yarn and I have more to come. If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here: Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth and Otis the Owl.

    As I mentioned earlier, this crochet seal pattern is designed to minimize the sewing. Salty is worked from the head to the tail in one piece. You’ll start by creating the head, then the body and the tail as a single piece and seaming the tail closed. Then you’ll create each of Salty’s fins working in rows and those will be the only pieces that you’ll sew onto this project. Combine the minimal sewing with the fact that the Fable Fur yarn is a bulky weight yarn, this crochet seal pattern is a really quick make.

    The baby seals are made using the same pattern but instead of the 5.5mm hook with the Fable Fur yarn, you’ll be using a 3.5mm crochet hook and Brava Worsted yarn. The safety eyes and nose needed for the babies are signifcantly smaller than those used for Salty. You’ll need 10mm eyes and a 8mm safety nose for each baby seal.

    crochet baby seals held in someone's hands

    Salty the Seal measures approximately 10 inches tall. She is a great cuddle-sized toy for little ones. However, please note that if you’re giving an amigurumi toy with safety eyes in it to a little person, please be aware that the safety eyes can be a choking hazard for little ones that may put them in their mouth. The baby seals measure approximately 4.5 inches tall.

    I love the safety eyes that I used in this crochet seal pattern. I used 24mm glitter safety eyes that I got from a local maker that has an Etsy shop called Chateau Bornais Crochet. I had been struggling to find safety eyes that looked a specific way and I just couldn’t find them anywhere. I sent a message to Rebekah from Chateau Bornais Crochet and not only did she have EXACTLY what I was looking for, she helped me get the exact colour I wanted as well. Since then, I’ve used her safety eyes in a few of my other amigurumi patterns (that will be releasing soon) and they have been fabulous. You can check out her Etsy shop HERE.

    The tools I used in this project were generously supplied by Clover USA. I used their Clover Amour Crochet hooks, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle, Locking Stitch Markers and Patchwork Mini Scissors. All of these tools have become part of my go-to toolbox. All of these tools are really great quality and enjoyable to use. Locking stitch markers are an absolute necessity (in my opinion) when making amigurumi and these stitch markers never disappoint. I never realized what a game changer a bent tip tapestry needle could be until I tried them. If you do amigurumi projects regularly, then I definitely recommend checking them out.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn or if you’re nervous about trying it, check out my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn. You can read that post HERE or you can check out the video version below.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Free Crochet Seal Pattern Below:

    Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal

    Grey seal with large blue eyes made with this free crochet seal pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this crochet seal pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies for Salty the Seal:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Supplies for the Baby Seals:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished size:

    • Salty is approximately 10” Long by 7.5” wide (fin tip to fin tip)
    • Baby seals are approximately 4.5” long by 3” wide (fin tip to fin tip)

    Gauge:

    • Salty: 5 sts x 5 rows = 2 inches
    • Baby seals: 5 sts x 5.5 rows = 1 inch

    NOTES:

    • Salty the Seal is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
    • The head, body and tail fin are all working in the round and in a single piece.  The fins are worked in rows and then sewn onto either side of the body.
    • This project is worked in continuous rounds (except the fins).  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.
    • To make Salty the Seal: Follow the instructions using the Fable Fur Yarn and the 5.5mm hook. 
    • To make the Baby Seals: Follow the instructions using the Brava Worsted yarn and a 3.5mm hook.
    • Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.


    Head and Body

    Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
    Rounds 6 – 10: SC around. (30) – Insert eyes in stitches 3 and 8 of Round 6.  Insert safety nose in stitch 6 of Round 8, centered between the eyes.  I recommend placing stitch markers in these spots until you are able to attach the safety eyes.
    Round: 11: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24) – Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more after every row or two.
    Round: 12: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)
    Round 13: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)
    Round 14: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    Round 15: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 16: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18) – Continue to add stuffing every couple of rows, adding extra in the neck area for added support of the head.

    a large furry crochet seal and two baby amigurumi seals laying together on a blanket.


    Round 17: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Rounds 18 – 20: SC around. (24)
    Round 21: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)
    Round 22: SC around. (18)
    Round 23: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)
    Round 24: SC around. (12)
    Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    Round 26: (SCINC) x 2, SC, (SCINC) X 2, SC. (10)
    Round 27: SC, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 3. (14)
    Round 28: SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 5, (SCINC) x 2, SC 3. (18)
    Rounds 29 -31: SC around. (18)
    Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Finish stuffing the body but do not add any stuffing to the tail portion of the body.  Hold the two long sides of the tail fin together and sew the hole closed using a tapestry needle. 

    Fins (make 2)

    Row 1: CH 7.  SC in 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC. CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 3: SC across. CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 4: (SCDEC) x 2. CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 5: SC across. (2)
    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the body, just below the neck.

    Finishing Touches for Salty the Seal

    The fur may cover up the eyes and nose a bit so use your fingers to smooth the fur away from the eyes and nose. Use a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face to clean up any fur that may overlap the nose and eyes.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Salty the Seal made with this free crochet seal pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys Review

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    Front cover of Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond with a text overlay indicating the book has been reviewed.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I was recently given the opportunity to review Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys – 25 Quick and Easy Projects to Make by Emma Osmond. In this book, Emma Osmond provides the designs for 25 amigurumi projects that should be able to be completed in a weekend. Keep reading to learn more about this book and how you can enter to win a copy of this book.

    Pin this for later SAVE

    This book starts off with the standard section you find in all crochet pattern books: a resource section. Step-by-step instructions are provided for the stitches and techniques utilized in the book. The illustrations are clear and easy to follow. The instructions accompanying the illustrastions could be a little bit clearer but the illustrations get the point across well enough. The book is written in UK crochet terminology however, charts to convert the UK terminology and hook sizes to U.S. terminology and hook sizes are included.

    The projects included in the book are a variety of items for young childen. Some of the projects include:

    • Rattles
    • Mobiles
    • Stuffed Animals (Teddy Bear, Rabbit, Octopus, Girafe, Elephant, Unicorn)
    • A Toy Basket
    • A variety of different games;
    • And more.
    Inside page preview of car pattern inside Weekend Makes Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond

    I really enjoy the variety of projects in Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond. There are a few projects in this book that I think would be wonderful baby shower gifts and I would definitely add them to my baby shower project short list. Specifically the Stacking Rings toy, Cloud Cot Toy and Star Mobile.

    The skill levels in the book are described as “Easy” and “Some Experience”. “Some Experience” is not defined anywhere but “Some” implied to me that not a lot of experience would be needed to complete the project, just “some”.

    Check out the video version of this review below:

    I found the “Easy” levelled patterns to be mostly straight forward to follow. There were some points with the “Some Experience” levelled patterns where I felt like further clarification being included could have been helpful. Again, because I felt that “some experience” implied not a lot of experience, I looked at the patterns as if I was someone that had maybe a few crochet projects under my belt or even a year of experience casually crocheting. When making the Star Mobile pattern, I didn’t feel like a beginner would necessarily understand how to create the center of the star appropriately. I have done a star shape previously and was therefore, able to fill in the blanks that would have existed for someone without that experience. Because of that, I can’t recommend the book for beginner crocheters but if you have a decent amount of experience doing a variety of amigurumi projects then I think you could really enjoy this book.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Overall, the patterns should be relatively quick makes. There are a couple of patterns, specifically the Skittles bowling game and the Colour Game that I doubt I’d be capable of completing in a weekend. For those two patterns specifically, I’d probably have to do nothing else that weekend to get them completed but hey, if you’re quicker and have got some extra time, you may be able to get them done. The Skittles bowling game is really fun so although I may not have been able to complete it in a weekend, I would definitely still want to make it.

    Crochet Stacking Ring toy picture inside Weekend Makes Crocheted Toys.

    The projects in Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys are whimsical and full of colour. My youngest found several projects to request after only a moment or two with the book. Even my son who is almost 6 made a request or two. Because of the variety, I think you could find something to please young kids at a variety of stages. The variety of project types means that you shouldn’t be bored quickly either. The stuffed animals in this book are a good size and could be customized pretty easily as well, by experienced crocheters.

    Overall, if you’re looking for a boredom buster or a project book that could act as a quick resource for a last minute baby shower/kid’s birthday gift, then Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond could be exactly what you’re looking for.

    If you want to check out Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond you can grab a copy of the book HERE.

    Crochet bowling set image with a furls crochet hook and yarn.

    Check out some of my other crochet book reviews while you’re here:
    Simple Crocheted Hats by Vanessa Mooncie, Kawaii Crochet by Melissa Bradley, Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, Snuggle and Play Crochet and Crochet Mini Animals Kit Review. Find all my Crochet Book Reviews HERE.

    Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys Book Giveaway

    Thanks to GMC Publications, I have a copy of Weekend Makes: Crocheted Toys to giveaway to one lucky winner.

    The Weekend Makes: Crochet Toys Book Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to Canadian and U.S. participants and ends Friday May 29, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time. Winner will be notified by email by Monday June 1, 2020.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

    read more
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern: Spring Breeze Shawlette

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    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    This week I decided to step outside of patterns I’m most comfortable making and bring you this crochet shawlette free pattern for my Spring Breeze Shawlette. This is my first shawlette design and I’m so excited to share it with you. It’s a quick and easy make that uses just one skein of Loops and Thread Cotton Colours yarn.

    The Loops and Thread Cotton Colours yarn is a size 4, worsted weight, 100% cotton yarn available at Michaels. It’s a self-striping yarn that is currently available in 10 different colourways here in Canada. The colourway that I used for this crochet shawlette free pattern is Snapdragon.

    Pin this Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern for later Save

    Just before the COVID-19 pandemic started, I was wandering through my local Michaels store and was pleasantly surprised to find a new selection of cotton yarns in the store. In Canada, we don’t have a lot of selection when it comes to yarns and even less if you’re looking for cotton or cotton blend yarns. So although my husband didn’t understand my excitement at the time, my fellow Canadian yarnies would definitely understand.

    Smiling woman wearing a shawl made with this crochet shawlette free pattern

    I was instantly drawn to the colours in the Snapdragon colourway and quickly added them to my basket. They were the most vibrant colours on the shelf and it has that mustardy yellow colour I love so there was no way I wasn’t going to try this yarn out.

    Once I got the yarn home, I decided that it would look pretty as a shawl or shawlette but I only wanted to use one skein and thus, this crochet shawlette free pattern was born. I tried a few different stitch combinations but I wanted something light and airy for spring and I think this open stitch it perfect for spring.

    I’ve provided instructions in the note section of this crochet shawlette free pattern on how to increase the size of your shawlette. Should you decide to make it bigger, please note that it will result in you using more yarn and you may require a second (or more) skeins to complete your project. However, if you were to make this bigger, it would be a great beach coverup to wrap around your waist.

    Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern – Spring Breeze Shawlette

    Woman holding a shawlette made with this crochet shawlette free pattern behind her back
    Woman wearing a one skein shawlette made with this crochet shawlette free pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner

    Supplies:

    Close up image of the texture in the Spring Breeze Shawlette

    Abbreviations:


    Finished size:

    • 44.5” Wide by 18.5” Deep

    Gauge:

    • 11 DC and 5 CH SPs x 8 rows = 4 inches


    NOTES:

    • CH 3s at the beginning of Rows count as first DC stitch
    • This pattern is worked from one side to the other, increasing until you reach the mid-point of the piece and then decreasing down the other side of the project.  If you want to make your project bigger, continue increasing in pattern stitch after Row 45 until you have reached the desired mid-point size, do two more rows that maintain the mid-point stitch count and then begin decreasing in the manner outlined beginning in Row 48.  Please note that increasing the size will result in needing more yarn than required in supply list.

    Spring Breeze Shawlette Pattern: Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern

    woman wearing a one skein shawlette over her shoulders

    CH 7
    Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each ST across.
    Row 2: Turn. CH 3 (counts as first ST here and throughout), DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 6. (4 STS, 1 CH SP)
    Row 3: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook (counts as first and 2nd STs here and throughout) CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 2, SK 2, DC in the last 2 STs. (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 4: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x2, CH 6 (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 5: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 2. (8 STS, 3CH SPS)
    Row 6: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3, CH 6 (8 STS, 3CH SPS)
    Row 7: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Row 8: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4, CH 6. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Row 9: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)
    Row 10: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5, CH 6. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)

    Smiling woman hugging a smiling child who is wearing a spring shawlette

    Row 11: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)
    Row 12: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6, CH 6. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)
    Row 13: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Row 14: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7, CH 6. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Row 15: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Row 16: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8, CH 6. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Row 17: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Row 18: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9, CH 6. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Row 19: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)
    Row 20: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10, CH 6. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)

    spring shawlette hanging on a fence with colourful bubbles in the foreground

    Row 21: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)
    Row 22: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11, CH 6. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)
    Row 23: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Row 24: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12, CH 6. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Row 25: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Row 26: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13, CH 6. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Row 27: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Row 28: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14, CH 6. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Row 29: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)
    Row 30: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15, CH 6. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)

    close up image of the crochet shawlette made with this free crochet pattern.

    Row 31: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)
    Row 32: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16, CH 6. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)
    Row 33: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Row 34: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17, CH 6. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Row 35: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Row 36: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18, CH 6. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Row 37: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Row 38: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19, CH 6. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Row 39: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)
    Row 40: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20, CH 6. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)

    crochet shawlette hung on a fence, made with one skein of loops and thread cotton colours yarn


    Row 41: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)
    Row 42: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21, CH 6. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)
    Row 43: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Row 44: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22, CH 6. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Row 45: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22. (48 STS, 23 CH SPS)
    Rows 46 – 47: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 23. (48 STS, 23 CH SPS)
    Rows 48 – 49: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Rows 50 – 51: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)


    Rows 52 – 53: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)
    Rows 54 – 55: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Rows 56 – 57: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Rows 58 – 59: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Rows 60 – 61: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)

    Woman looking off into the distance wearing a colourful shawlette made with this free crochet pattern


    Rows 62 – 63: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)
    Rows 64 – 65: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Rows 66 – 67: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Rows 68 – 69: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Rows 70 – 71: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)


    Rows 72 – 73: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)
    Rows 74 – 75: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Rows 76 – 77: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Rows 78 – 79: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Rows 80 – 81: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)

    Woman wearing a colourful one skein shawlette on her shoulders


    Rows 82 – 83: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)
    Rows 84 – 85: Turn.  CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Rows 86 – 87: Turn.  CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3. (8 STS, 3 CH SPS)
    Rows 88 – 89: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 2. (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 89: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs. (4 STS, 1 CH SP)
    Row 90: Turn.  CH 1, SC in the first two STs, SC 2 in the CH SP, SC in the remaining two STs. (6)
    FO and weave in ends.  Block.

    I hope you have enjoyed this crochet shawlette free pattern and making your own Spring Breeze Shawlette.

    While you’re here, you may enjoy some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Shawl, Otis the Owl, Rainbow Keychain Crochet Pattern, Shoreline Seeker Tote. You can find all of my available free crochet patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl

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    Close up image of Crochet owl made with faux fur yarn and this free crochet pattern.
    All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.

    Finally! A crochet owl free pattern! WOO!

    Once and a while, I’ll come up with a new amigurumi pattern and my husband will say ” how have you not done an owl design yet?”. My answer is always along the lines of “I don’t know” or ” there are already so may crochet owl free patterns out there..”. I had always wanted to design a crochet owl but to be honest, I just didn’t feel inspired to create one… until I saw the Mishka Fable Fur colourway. It reminded me of barn owls and I knew I needed to make an amigurumi owl with it.

    Those that know me well, know that my absolutely favourite animals are owls. I am obsessed. Some of my favourite gifts I’ve ever received were opportunities to go and spend the day with birds of prey. I’ve been so fortunate to have had these experiences to do training exercises with a variety of owl, hawk, falcon and eagle species. Everytime I get to spend time with birds of prey, I am in awe and learn something new. I guess I just waited to create one because nothing felt right.

    Picture of a woman holding a snowy owl on her arm.
    I couldn’t resist sharing at least one photo of me with an owl. Me with Elsa the Snow Owl. One of my absolute favourites!

    Pin this Crochet Owl Free Pattern for later Save

    Once I got my Mishka coloured Fable Fur yarn, I just knew an amigurumi owl had to be the next free crochet pattern in my faux fur yarn amigurumi series. (In case you’ve missed it, you can get the other patterns from this series so far here: Kaya Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth and Salty the Seal.)

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, you may want to check out my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn. You can read that post HERE or you can check out the video version below.

    The pattern for Otis the Owl is a quick and simple pattern. He is a tiny little guy and is about 4 inches tall. You’ll need some Fable Fur yarn in the colourway Mishka and some Brava Worsted Yarn in the colour Brindle from We Crochet (crochet.com). I asbolutely love both these products from We Crochet.

    Amigurumi Owl made with faux fur sitting on top of a ball of fable fur yarn

    Believe it or not, I used to be super intimidated by working with faux fur yarns. But I was really inspired by them and had so many ideas that I decided to give them a try even though I was terrified I may not be able to see my stitches. I am so glad that I did! Fable Fur yarn has now become one of my absolutely favourite products to work with to date. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products.

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl

    Picture of an amigurumi owl that was made with this crochet owl free pattern sitting in the palm of a hand

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 4” tall

    Gauge: 

    • 4 sts x 5 rows = 2” – Not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through. 

    Notes:

    • The project is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.


    Pattern:


    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them
    Add stuffing.
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    Body


    Round 1:     Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (12)
    Add stuffing.
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up body onto the bottom of the head  Add a bit more stuffing and sew body onto head.

    Wings (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Pull the circle tight but do not join. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the bird, near the neck.

    Beak:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC.  CH 3 and DC 3 into the MC. (3)

    Turn and join last ST to the top of the CH 3 with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Using the tail from the creation of the MC, sew the CH 3 to the last DC to close up the back of the beak.  Sew onto face between the eyes and weave in ends.

    Step 1 of the crochet owl beak
    Crochet Owl Beak Step 1 (before the sl st)
    Step two of the beak
    Crochet Owl Beak – Step 2 – SL ST to top of CH 3
    Sewing up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Crochet Owl Beak – Step 4 – Seam up the “back” of the beak
    Seaming up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Continuing to sew up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Back of the beak completely seamed up.
    Back of the crochet owl beak, completely sewn up.

    Feet

    Row 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle, CH 3. In 2nd CH from hook, SC.  SC in next ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 2: CH 1. SC in each ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 3:  CH 1. SCINC in each ST. Turn. (4)
    Row 4: CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3.  CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3. CH 4 SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the last SC of Row 3.  SL ST down the side of the foot, placing a SL ST in the end of each row. 
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body.  Sew feet onto the bottom of the body so the toes just peek out the front.

    Completed Crochet Owl Foot
    Completed Crochet Owl Foot
    view of the crochet owl feet created in this free crochet pattern and sewn to the bottom of the project.
    I’m loving his little feet so much!

    Finishing Touches

    The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see. 

    Check out some of my other Free Faux Fur Crochet Patterns:

    Seth the Sloth, Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain.


    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.
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  • How To's

    How to Crochet a Magic Circle Tutorial

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    Step by step images showing how to crochet a magic circle with a column of text to the left
    This post may contain affiliate links

    This step-by-step tutorial will help you learn how to crochet a magic circle – often referred to as a magic ring or adjustable circle/ring. The magic circle/magic ring is a really handy technique to know if you’re a fan of amigurumi projects. The magic circle is an alternative to creating a ring with a chain 4 which would typically leave an open hole in your project. When you use a magic circle to being your project it creates a tightly closed ring when you’re crocheting in the round. So if you’re using it for amigurumi, this means no hole for the stuffing to show through and a more professional-looking finish.

    Pin this tutorial so you can refer back to it later. Save

    This technique is relatively easy to do but with some practice, it’ll be as easy as creating a starting chain.

    For this tutorial, I’m using a 5.5 mm Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook and Bernat Premium (size 4) yarn in Sky Blue.

    Check out the video version of this tutorial here:

    How to Crochet the Magic Circle

    Using your non-dominant hand, hold the end of the yarn between your thumb and pointer finger. Wrap the working yarn around your fingers (from front to back) once.

    Hands holding a piece of blue yarn
    Yarn being wrapped around fingers

    Cross the working yarn over top of the yarn on the inside of your hand and lay the working yarn across the top of your fingers. I like to use my pinky finger to hold it down and keep it secure fo the next part.

    Yarn being crossed over itself while a person demonstrates how to crochet a magic circle
    Yarn wrapped around a hand twice showing how to crochet a magic circle

    Insert your crochet hook underneath the first strand of yarn and grab the second strand of yarn.

    Crochet hook grabbing second strand of yarn wrapped around person's fingers

    Pull the second strand of yarn under the first strand of yarn.

    second strand of yarn being pulled under first strand of yarn by crochet hook

    Twist the yarn to create a loop. Yarn over the hook using the working yarn and pull through the loop to create a chain.

    Yarn twisted to create a loop to crochet a magic circle
    Yarn over crochet hook to create a chain
    Chain completed for how to make a magic circle

    Remove your fingers from the loop. Your magic circle is now completed!

    completed magic circle

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Working Your First Row

    To work into the magic circle, work your desired stitches into the magic cirlce, ensuring that both the ring and yarn tail are crocheted over. In my example here, I’m crocheting six single crochet stitches (Get my tutorial on how to do the single crochet stitch HERE).

    working into a magic circle

    When you’ve finished crocheting your first round of stitches, gently pull the yarn tail until your ring closes and you have a tightly closed ring. like in the image below.

    Continue working your second round of stitches as normal.

    Now that you know how to crochet a magic circle, let’s pratice using it! Some of my free crochet patterns that utilize the magic circle technique are:
    Clawdia Cat, Carter the Carrot, Penny the Bunny Cactus, Buttons the Bunny CAL (part one, part two and part three) and Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf.

    Follow The Loopy Lamb on Facebook and Instagram! Sign up for my Newsletter to be kept in the loop and never miss a thing.

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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Simple Crocheted Hats by Vanessa Mooncie Review

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    Simple Crocheted Hats Book
    This post may contain affiliate links. This book was provided to me free of charge in exchange for my honest review.

    I was recently given the opportunity to review Simple Crocheted Hats by Vanessa Mooncie. In this book, Vanessa Mooncie provides the designs for 15 beautiful hats that are simple to make. Keep reading to learn more about this book and how you can enter to win a copy of the book.

    I have been a long-time admirer of Vanessa Mooncie’s work so when I had the opportunity to check out this book, I was all over it. I had come to know Vanessa’s work through her amigurumi designs and was surprised to learn that the book was crochet hats which made me more intrigued and excited to take a look.

    Simple Crocheted Hats has a variety of different hat styles in the book. Although the title is Simple Crocheted Hats, Mooncie shows us that simple doesn’t have to look simple or unstylish. There’s a plaid hat, cowl hood, pompom tam, beret, earflap hat, hooded scarf, sun hat, brimmed hat and more. My personal favourites are the Pinwheel Beret and the Pom Pom Tam hats. Different sizes are included for each hat so there’s no need to worry about whether the hats may be too big or small.

    Image of the pom pom tam crochet hat in the book Simple Crocheted Hats by Vanessa Mooncie

    The first thing to note about this book is that it is written in UK terminology. That isn’t a huge deal because converting it to US terminology isn’t very difficult but if you’re not aware of that up front, you could be frustrated when your work isn’t coming out the way it should. There is a chart in the back of the book with the terminology conversions to help you out. They’ve also included the crochet hook conversion charts in the book as well.

    In terms of resources, the book covers the basic stitch tutorials you’d expect to find as well as instructions on the different techniques used in the book. There’s a section on seaming your projects and how to use the techniques used in the projects that I found helpful. All the patterns in the book are accompanied by crochet charts so if you’re stuck or just prefer to read the charts, they’re a helpful addition.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    To get a sneek peak of the designs available in the book, watch my video review of this book below!

    If you’re a beginner, this book may seem a bit intimidating when you quickly flip through the pages and are met with a plethora of crochet diagrams. Don’t let that scare you. The actual text of the patterns in Simpled Crocheted Hats are incredibly clear and simple to follow. A point to note is that the book is written using UK terminology.  But there is a conversion chart in the back of the book to help you out. Overall, regardless of your skill-level, I think this book is a great addition to your crochet library.

    If you want to check out Simple Crocheted Hats by Vanessa Mooncie, you can grab a copy of the book HERE.

    Follow Vanessa Mooncie, the author/designer of this book on Instagram: @vanessamooncie

    Back cover of the book Simple Crocheted Hats, a Furls Crochet Hook and some blue Knitcrate yarn

    If you like crocheted hat patterns, you may enjoy these free crochet hat patterns available on my blog: Juneau Blues Beanie, The Catena Hat, The Aeipathy Beanie, Crochet Tartan Beanie, Arctic Gem Beanie. Find all my hat patterns HERE.

    Simple Crocheted Hats Book Giveaway

    Thanks to GMC Publications, I have a copy of this beautiful book to giveaway to one lucky winner.

    The Simple Crocheted Hats Book Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to Canadian and U.S. participants and ends Friday May 1, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Sloth Pattern: Seth the Sloth

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    Amigurumi Crochet Sloth made with Faux fur holding a crochet hook
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I am so excited to share my brand new free crochet sloth pattern with you to make my friend Seth the Sloth. This is a relatively simple amigurumi pattern that just looks incredible using the faux fur yarn. All my friends and family that have seen him want him or one of their own. This is my favourite crochet sloth pattern that I’ve created so far and I’m sure you’ll love him too.

    When I got the idea for making an amigurumi sloth, I tried a few different things but I never felt really happy with them. After I made my crochet koala, Kaya Koala (get her free crochet pattern HERE), I fell in love with working with faux fur yarn and I just knew that I had to use it to make a sloth. Once I had that I idea, I started immediately and worked on it late into the night. I was so inspired that I couldn’t put the hook down! I knew I’d pay for my lack of sleep the next day but I didn’t care. I HAD to finish the sloth and I wouldn’t rest until I did.

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    When I was finally finished (at an obscenely late hour for someone whose kids were going to be waking up at 6am), I was ecstatic. Tired, but ecstatic. I put Seth up on a shelf so my kids couldn’t get a hold of him before I was able to take pictures of him and headed to bed. The next morning, my kids went crazy as soon as they saw him and immediately started arguing over who was going to keep him. After explaining to them that Seth was for Mommy’s blog and that Mommy was going to keep him for a while, they agreed to wait until I was done with him to play with him… but only if I would let them each pet and cuddle him for a minute. Honestly, seeing how excited my kids get over my projects makes me more excited about them and seeing the joy on their faces when I give them a new toy I create makes it all worth it.

    Crochet sloth resting it's arm on a ball of faux fur yarn with a crochet hook in it's lap.

    This free crochet sloth pattern uses mushroom buttons instead of safety eyes, so for safety reasons, I wouldn’t recommend giving this toy to a small child that may put the toy in their mouth. My children are past that stage so I feel comfortable letting them play a toy that has buttons for eyes like Seth does.

    I got the yarn to make this project from Wecrochet.com. I am so in love with their Fable Fur yarn and their Brava Worsted yarns. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products. If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    If you’re a fan of free crochet sloth patterns, you’re in luck! I’ve got more! Check out my Free Crochet Sloth Coffee Cozy and my Crochet Sloth Hook Case Pattern.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, check out my video for my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn.

    Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Seth the Sloth

    Crochet sloth looking at a plant.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12” Tall


    Gauge:

    • Faux Fur Sections: 6 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches
    • Face Patch made with Worsted Yarn: 10 sts x 11 rows = 2 inches



    NOTES:

    • All pieces are worked and sewed onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • All pieces with the exception of the face patch made with worsted yarn, are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join the ends of your rows (except where noted).

    Face and Head:

    Row 1: Using Dove Heather and 3.5mm hook, CH 9. SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 6, SCINC in the last CH. (10)
    Row 2: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 8, SCINC in the last ST. (12)
    Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 10, SCINC in the last ST. (14)
    Row 4: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 12, SCINC in the last ST. (16)
    Rows 5 – 7: Turn. CH 1. SC across. (16)
    Row 8: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC (14)
    Row 9: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC (12)
    Row 10: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC (10)
    Row 11: Turn. CH 1. SC across. Turn. (10)
    Change to Fable Fur Kuma and 5.5mm hook.
    Round 12: Turn piece clockwise and place 24 SC evenly around the outside edge of the piece.  When you get to first and last rows of the piece, you will have to insert your hook into the top of the first row (between Rows 1 and 2 – see picture below for help) and the top of Row 10 (between Rows 10 and 11 – see picture below for help) in order to get your hook and yarn through the piece.  Turn the piece so the furriest side is facing you.  That’s now the right side.


    Round 13: Working in continuous round now with the right side facing you, SC in each ST around (24)
    Round 14: SC around (24)
    Round 15: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 16 -17: SC around (30)
    Round 18: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24)
    Round 19: SC around (24)
    Round 20: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing as you go.
    Round 21: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 22: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew up the hole.

    Eye Patches: (Make 2)

    Using Black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 7.
    Round 1: SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 4, SC 5 in the last CH. On the other side of the CH, SC 4, SC3 in the last CH. (18)

    Join with a sl st and FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face.  Place the back of the button through the small gap created when you put 5 SCs in the last CH of the eye patch. Secure button using a length of black yarn and your tapestry needle. Repeat with the other eye patch.  Position each eye patch on the face, slightly overlapping the edge of the face and sew onto the face.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Nose

    Using a length of black yarn approximately 15 inches long, embroider a nose onto the face of your sloth approximately 3 stitches long.  There should be 3 stitches on either side of the nose between the nose and the end of eye patches.

    Close up image of the face of the crochet sloth made with this free crochet sloth pattern

    Body

    Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24)
    Round 5: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Round 8: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24)
    Round 9: SC around (24)
    Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18)
    Round 11: SC around (18)
    Round 12: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) – Start stuffing.  Adding a bit more stuffing after each round.
    Rounds 13 – 14: SC around (12)
    FO leaving a long tail to secure to the head.  Sew the body onto the head, adding more stuffing as you seam to support the head. Stuff firmly.

    Arms (Make 2)

    Round 1:  Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew arms onto body.  Do not stuff.  Sew arms onto either side of the body just below where the head meets the body.

    Crochet sloth being held by the hand.

    Legs (Make 2)

    Round 1:  Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew legs onto body.  Do not stuff.  Sew legs onto either side of the bottoms of the body.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Picture of Crochet sloth made with faux fur yarn with a text overlay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.
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  • How To's

    How to do the Double Crochet Stitch

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    How to double crochet tutorial images with a text overlay.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    The double crochet stitch is a simple, versatile stitch that is one of the most commonly used stitches in crochet. In terms of height, this stitch is taller than both a single crochet and half double crochet stitch but shorter than the treble (triple) crochet stitch. This tutorial will show you how to double crochet with simple, step-by-step photos and instructions.

    For this tutorial, I’m using a 5.5 mm Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook and Bernat Premium (size 4) yarn in Sky Blue.

    When the double crochet stitch is used in a pattern (using U.S. terms), it will be abbreviated as DC.

    Check out the video for this tutorial:



    Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain your desired number of stitches minus 1 CH. I.e. If you want 20 stitches, CH 19. Now chain 3 more stitches. For practice, start by creating 14 chains. Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the fourth chain (CH) from the hook through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. (You will never work in the 1st chain from the hook unless it is specified in the pattern).

    Crochet Chains made with blue yarn
    Second step of how to double crochet

    Step 2: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull the yarn through the chain. You will now have three loops on your hook.

    Step 3 of the crochet stitch tutorial using blue yarn
    Step 4 of the crochet stitch tutorial using blue yarn

    Step 3: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull through two loops on your hook. You will have two loops remaining on your hook.

    Two loops on a crochet stitch in progress using blue yarn

    Step 4: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull thtrough remaining two loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. One double crochet stitch completed.

    One completed stitch and a CH 3 turning chain

    Step 5: Yarn over and insert your hook into the next chain (CH) through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Yarn over (YO), pull through the chain. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over (YO) and pull through two loops on your hook. You will have two loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull thtrough remaining two loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook This is your second double crochet stitch (DC) completed.

    Repeat Step 5 in each remaining chain.

    starting of a second double crochet stitch
    second step of how to double crochet
    second stitch completed.

    Note: When counting your stitches, make sure you count the first three skipped stitches as a stitch. If you are following the example and started with a CH 14, you should have 12 stitches.

    To add a second (or more) row(s):


    To add a second row of DC stitches, chain 3 and turn your work counterclockwise. You’ll now be working across the tops of the stitches you just made.

    Note: The chain 3 typically counts as a stitch unless the pattern tells you otherwise. This chain is referred to as the turning chain.

    Chain 3 of the second row of crochet swatch

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Step 1: Yarn over and insert your hook into the second to last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops , yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook. One DC Stitch completed.

    Close up of the beginning of the first stitch of the second row of double crochet
    In progress stitch

    Step 2: Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops , yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook. One DC Stitch completed.

    Step 3: Repeat Step 2 in each remaining DC stitch across.

    Second row of stitches completed.

    To add more rows, you would repeat the instructions for adding your second row until your piece reaches the desired size.

    swatch of completed stitches

    I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post. Like stitch tutorials? Check out my Single Crochet Stitch Tutorial, Half Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial, Foundation Half Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial and Foundation Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial.

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