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Crochet Tartan Beanie Free Crochet Pattern
This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links. The Crochet Tartan Beanie is the 2nd pattern in my crochet tartan series. This hat was designed to match my Crochet Tartan Cowl pattern. The Crochet Tartan Beanie features a classically beautiful tartan pattern that is comprised of simple colour changes and stitches.
The Crochet Tartan Beanie is made working in rows to create a rectangular piece of fabric. The vertical lines of the tartan pattern are then added using surface crochet stitches. Once the surface crochet is completed, the hat is seamed up and cinched closed on one end to create the beanie. Adding a pompom to finish it off, and you’re done your Crochet Tartan Beanie.
Pin it for later Save.
New to Surface Crochet?
As I mentioned, this beanie pattern uses surface crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with this technique, take a look at my post HERE to see my instructions and tips for working surface crochet stitches.
Crochet Tartan Beanie Pattern
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
6.0 mm hook
105 yards/96 m (1.83 oz/52 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Stardust
41 yards/38 m (0.71 oz/20 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Cranberry
41 yards/38 m (0.71 oz/20 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Moss
Faux fur pom pom (optional)
Tapestry Needle
ScissorsGet an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
HDC = Half Double Crochet
FO = Finish Off
Finished size: Approximately 8.5” tall x 10.25” wide
Size before seaming: 20.5” wide by 8.5” tallGauge: 14 sts x 11.5 rows = 4 inches
NOTES: You’ll be doing surface crochet stitches to create the vertical striping of the tartan. When doing the vertical striping, if you find that your fabric is losing a lot of stretch or bunching up, it means your slip stitches are too tight. Make sure you keep your slip stitches loose. Don’t hesitate to go up a hook size or two to keep your stitches from being too tight.
Crochet Tartan Beanie Pattern
Row 1: FDHDC 72 or CH 73 and HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each remaining CH. Turn. (72 sts)
Rows 2 – 3: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Cranberry
Rows 4 – 5: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Stardust
Row 6: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Moss
Rows 7 – 8: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns for free.
Change to Stardust
Rows 9 – 14: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Cranberry
Rows 15 – 16: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Stardust
Row 17: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Moss
Rows 18 – 19: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Change to Stardust
Rows 20 – 25: CH 2. HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Turn. (72 sts)
Hat should measure approximately 8.5” in length. If you want a slouchier hat, keep repeating rows 15 to 25 until you reach your desired length. FO leaving a really long tail to seam up the hat. Don’t seam up your hat yet. We’re going to add the vertical lines first.Adding the vertical stripes using surface crochet:
Using Cranberry, make a slip knot. Insert your hook into the bottom part of your sixth stitch in your starting chain of the cowl. Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project. With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches) and the right side facing you, slip stitch into the sixth stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl. FO. Repeat these steps again, starting in the 15th, 24th, 33rd, 42nd, 51st, 60th and 69th stitch of each row. You will have 8 cranberry vertical lines.
Using Moss, make a slip knot. Insert your hook into the bottom part of your seventh stitch in your starting chain of the cowl. Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project. With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches), working right to left, slip stitch into the seventh stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl. FO. Repeat these steps again, starting in the 16th, 25th, 34th, 43rd, 52nd, 61st and 70th stitch of each row. You will have 8 moss vertical lines.
FO and weave in ends.
Finishing your hat:
Fold your fabric in half lengthwise and line the ends of the rows up together. Seam the ends together using the mattress stitch or your favourite seaming method. FO and weave in end.
Using the long tail you left after crocheting your hat, weave your tail through the last round of the hat. Pull tightly and sew your hole shut. If using a pom pom, secure your pom pom to your hat and weave in your ends.Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
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The Best Christmas Gift Ideas for Crocheters
This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links. Looking for the perfect christmas gift ideas for crocheters or the yarn lover in your life? Are you a crocheter that isn’t quite sure what to tell loved ones you want for the holidays? Whether you’re just starting out with crochet or you’ve been doing it for years, you’re bound to find something worthy of making your list.
1. Yarn
We can never have enough yarn! No matter the size of our stash, we’ll always make room for more. Some of my favourites include: Bernat Blanket, Mary Maxim Woodlands, Lion Brand Heartland, Hobbii Rainbow Cotton and Drops Air (to name just a few). I would recommend buying more than one ball of the same brand and/or colour if you are going to buy yarn.
2. Crochet Hooks
This Clover Amour crochet hook set gives you 10 of the most commonly used crochet hook sizes in one convenient set. The hooks have ergonomic handles which will help keep crocheting comfortable. They are a good quality set for beginners and experience crocheters alike. For the experienced crocheter that already has a set of hooks, check out these beautiful crochet hooks by Furls Crochet. I have a few of these hooks now and they are really comfortable to work with. Should anything happen to the hook you purchase, you can contact Furls and receive a replacement. Furls sells a few different styles of hook but my preference and recommendation is the Odyssey hooks. Check them out HERE.
Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook pictured with my Mad About Boo Pillow 3. Gift Cards to Buy Crochet Supplies
Can’t decide just what to get? A gift card to Amazon or to our favourite craft store will always be put to good use.
4. Yarn Ball Winder
A yarn ball winder makes winding yarn into neat and compact yarn balls and is a useful tool for any crocheter or yarn lover to have in their arsenal. I personally have this Marrywindix ball winder and it works great and is really cost effective.
5. Yarn Swift
A yarn swift works in conjunction with a ball winder to make it easier (and faster) to wind hanks of yarn into balls. Check out this yarn swift from Knitpicks.
6. Crochet Hook Case
This Teamoy Crochet Hook Case was the first case I ever used and it has been great. It holds my ergonomic hooks and a few added accessories. My husband bought me this Global Materials Leather Pencil Case for my furls crochet hooks and I love it. You can store hooks on one side and accessories on the other.
The inside of my Global Materials Leather Pencil Case that I use for my larger handled hooks. 7. Embroidery Scissors
Sure, we could use any old pair of scissors but embroidery scissors are just prettier and fit nicely into smaller hook cases. These vintage style embroidery scissors and these cute stork scissors are fun choices.
8. Pom Pom Maker
These Clover Pom Pom Makers make pompom making an absolute breeze. I have the large set and I use them all the time.
9. Good Quality Tapestry Needles
Poor quality tapestry needles can make weaving ends in even more of a chore. These tapestry needles from Lion Brand are my favourites and the set includes a few different sizes.
6. Compression Gloves
Many crocheters experience hand and wrist pain after long boughts of crocheting. These compression gloves can be helpful in easing hand pain and swelling. I have a pair and they have definitely found them to be helpful.
7. Yarn Bag
This Teamoy Yarn Bag has enough storage to carry several skeins of yarn, a project, hook case and much more. It has a bunch of great features for both knitters and crocheters. I’ve had mine for over a year and it’s still in great shape. For travelling, I use this smaller Teamoy Yarn Bag. It holds less but it’s small enough for me to take on long car rides and still have leg room.
8. Garment Steamer
Blocking a completed project gives it that finishing touch and is an essential part of the crocheting process for many projects. Steam blocking is the fastest, easiest way to block and having a good garment steamer is critical. I swear by this Conair Turbo Extreme Steam Handheld Garment Steamer.
9. Yarn Bowl
A good yarn bowl helps keep your yarn from rolling all over the floor, getting messy and tangled. They come in all kinds of materials, sizes and styles. I haven’t used this one but I think this wooden yarn bowl is so pretty.
10. Crochet Themed Mug
There are so many cute crochet and maker themed mugs out there. 3AMGrace Designs has some really adorable mugs and so does Etsy. I also think this Accio Yarn mug from Amazon is really cute and is great Christmas gift idea for crocheters that are also Harry Potter fans as well.
11. Personalized Tags
If the crocheter in your life sells their projects or just likes to add a beautiful finishing touch, try getting some personalized tags for them to add to their projects. I get my personalized faux suede tags from Unwrapped Yarn on Etsy and they are perfect.
In the bottom right of this image are the faux suede tags I had done by Unwrapped Yarn on Etsy. 12. Gauge Swatch Measurement Tool
Gauge is the measurement of stitches and rows in a given measured space and it plays a huge role in crochet. I have a gauge swatch measurement tool that has a window in it to make counting my stitches to get that measurement a breeze. Unwrapped Yarn on Etsy has both pre-made styles and personalized styles. I got mine from her and it is by far one of my favourite tools to use and one of my favourite Christmas gift ideas for crocheters.
13. Safety Eyes
If your crocheter makes stuffed animals, then they need to have good quality safety eyes for that professional polished look. This set on Amazon is the one I use and order over and over again. It comes with a variety of sizes which is handy.
This Randy the Reindeer Cactus pattern uses safety eyes. 14. Crochet Pattern Books
There are plenty of places online to get free crochet patterns (my blog among them) but a crochet pattern book is a wonderful gift to give. I review crochet pattern books here on my blog and can testify that they make an excellent resource to have on hand. Here are the reviews of a few great titles to consider: Dinosaurs to Crochet, The Crocheter’s Skill-Building Workshop and Crochet Animal Rugs. This book called Complete Crochet Course: The Ultimate Reference Guide by Shannon Mullett-Bowlsby is also a fantastic reference and Christmas gift idea for crocheters.
15. Knitcrate Subscription Box
A Knitcrate Subscription Box is the gift that keeps on giving month after month and is perfect for the yarn lover in your life. Every month Knitcrate sends you one or more skeins of premium yarn and a pattern book with both a knit and crochet pattern using the yarn you received in your box. I’m not sure if every crate includes a little surprise, but my crate also came with a cute little locking stitch marker. Additional to the items that come in the Knitcrate, members receive 25% purchases made in the online store at Knitcrate.com. Use code LOOPY20 to get 20% off your first crate HERE. You can see my unboxing and unbiased review of my first Knitcrate subscription box HERE.
16. Blocking Matts
Blocking matts are a great asset when blocking your project. These blocking matts from KnitIQ have grid lines and raidal circles that help you block your projects more precisely.
Thanks for checking out my list of The Best Crochet Gift Ideas for Crocheters! What are your Christmas gift ideas for crocheters? Leave me a comment down below and let me know!
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Free Crochet Sweater Pattern Round-up
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links. Fall is upon us and it’s time to break out those cute fall sweaters. If you’re looking for a great free crochet sweater pattern to make for fall, check out this free crochet sweater pattern round up to get some inspiration for your fall wardrobe.
This Comfy Cozy Cardigan by Yay for Yarn looks so comfy it just screams fall wardobe staple. It’s a beginner-friendly garment and is available for free on the Yay for Yarn blog HERE.
The Fall Favourite Classic Raglan Carigan by Joy of Motion Crochet is a simple to make cardigan that doesn’t require any seaming since it’s made in the raglan style. Score! Check out the free sweater patter HERE.
The Pucker Pullover Sweater from Sewrella is a great make using worsted weight yarn and is available for sizes XS to 3XL. Check out the free pattern HERE.
Grab your I hook and your worsted weight yarn to make up this pretty cardi by Burgundy and Blush using the Herringbone Half Double crochet stitch. Get the free pattern for the Hibiscus Herringbone Crochet Cardigan HERE.
This Cascading Bobbles Sweater pattern by Stephanie Erin is simply beautiful. Check out the free pattern HERE on The Hook Nook blog.
I am actually swooning over the cable detail on this Caron Branching Out Crochet Pullover from the Yarnspirations website. Add this one to your list and get the free pattern HERE.
The Mysa Sweatshirt Sweater pattern from 1 Dog Woof just screams cozy and it makes me think of long fall walks and crunchy leaves. I love it. Get the free pattern HERE.
I am a sucker for cables and this Red Heart Entwined Chic Cable Sweater is no exception. The pattern is available for free from the Yarnspiration website in sizes XS – 2XL HERE.
Thanks for checking out my free crochet fall sweater pattern round up! If you enjoy pattern round-ups, check out my Last-Minute Crochet Gifts Pattern Round Up and my Halloween Crochet Pattern Round Up.
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Knitcrate Unboxing and Review
This post contains affiliate links. All opinions are my own.This month, I received my first-ever subscription box – the October 2019 Knitcrate. I’ve been interested in the possibility of getting a subscription box but wasn’t sure what kind to get. Honestly, a lot of them come with stuff that although it may be kind of cool, I would never use. When I found out about yarn subscription boxes, I knew I had to get one. Yarn delivered to my door every month? Yeah, I’m obviously signing up for that. After some research, I found Knitcrate. I was intrigued after checking them out online and decided to contact them to try it out. Once I received it, I obviously wanted to share with you my Knitcrate unboxing and review of the October 2019 Knitcrate.
Knitcrate Unboxing: What Comes in a Knitcrate anyway?
Every month Knitcrate sends you one or more skeins of premium yarn and a pattern book with both a knit and crochet pattern using the yarn you received in your box. I’m not sure if every crate includes a little surprise, but my crate also came with a cute little locking stitch marker. Additional to the items that come in the Knitcrate, members receive 25% purchases made in the online store at Knitcrate.com.
Use code LOOPY20 to get 20% off your first crate HERE.
*Please note the hook did not come with the crate* Why Knitcrate?
One of the reasons I was intrigued by Knitcrate was the number of options available for your Knitcrate. Knitcrate.com offers the regular Knitcrate box, a Sock Crate for sock knitters and two different crates that they offer inconjunction with Malabrigo and something called Mrs. Crosby Travels Quarterly crate. I looked into the regular Knitcrate and from there, you have more options.
Each Knitcrate is curated to fit a “vibe”. The “vibes” to choose from are “Energize Me”, “All Natural”, “Chill Out” and “Anything Goes”.Each vibe speaks to a set of colours that the yarn you receive will be selected from. Energize Me is for those that love bright, bold colours. All Natural is for those that have an affinity for earth tones and neutrals. Chill Out is a collection of relaxing tones like blues, greens and purples. And Anything Goes is for the adventurous spirit that wants to be surprised with what they receive every month. Knitcrate provides a colour pallete image for each selection so you have an idea of what you can expect for each selection.
What is the yarn like?
The yarn that came in my October Knitcrate is GORGEOUS. My Knitcrate came with two skeins of yarn. When I first opened the box, I was surprised by the size of the skeins and just how gorgeous the colour was. The rich purple colour is heather with pink hues and it is just beautiful. I got the Chill Out box this month and the yarn is called Vidalana Ascendance in the colourway Tassel. It’s 100% fine peruvian highland wool. It is a sport weight chainette style yarn and each skein comes with 328 yards. My first impressions upon taking it out of the box was that the yarn was very soft and it has some serious squish factor.
I’m really impressed with the amount of yarn I received in the box. I think it’s great that there is not just enough yarn to make the patterns in the book but should I choose not to use the pattern in the book, I’ve got enough to make something else.
What kind of patterns came with the Knitcrate?
The October Knitcrate I received came with a pattern book and at the front of the book, it shows which yarn was included in the different Knitcrate boxes for this month and it gives you the story behind the yarn I received. The book for this month includes a knitting pattern for a pretty shawl by Aimee Hanson and a crochet pattern for a Bundling Blanket and Bonnet Set. The book includes the patterns for the sock crates too so although the patterns aren’t meant for the yarn you received, you still get the patterns which is cool.
Overall Thoughts on my first Knitcrate Unboxing and Review
I am seriously impressed with my first Knitcrate. The yarn is gorgeous, the patterns look clear and easy to make and I also got this cute little stitch marker. If you’re considering getting a yarn subscription box, I definitely recommend checking Knitcrate out.
Get a discount on your first Knitcrate
Knitcrate has offered my followers a 20% discount off your first subscription box using the code LOOPY20. You can check out Knitcrate though this link HERE.
Thanks for reading my Knitcrate unboxing and review! If you enjoy reading reviews, be sure to check out my Dinosaurs to Crochet Book Review and my Snuggle and Play Crochet Book Review.
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Crochet Tartan Cowl – Free Crochet Cowl Pattern
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links. The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches. If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl. I can’t wait to see all of the colour combos everyone comes up with!
The Crochet Tartan Cowl is made using three different colours of Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn. I’ve used the colours Moss, Cranberry and Stardust. This was my first time using Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn and it was love at first squish. This yarn is an acrylic/alpaca blend (90%/10%) and is is delightfully soft and cozy. It does have a little bit of a halo (I suspect from the addition of the alpaca fibers) but doesn’t hinder visibility or diminish stitch definition. The colours are rich and beautiful. I mean, that cranberry yarn is so awesome, that I want to use it for everything right now. This is definitely a yarn that I want to keep handy in my stash.
Pin it for later HERE.
The Crochet Tartan Cowl measures approximately 10 inches wide by 35 inches long. The cowl fits closely to the neck and you fold the top edge down to create a sort of collar. If you prefer a looser fitting cowl, the pattern gives you intstructions for making the cowl any length you prefer. If you do alter the length of your cowl, please keep in mind that it will affect how much yarn you will require.
How to Surface Crochet
To make the vertical striping on the Crochet Tartan Cowl, I used a technique called surface crochet. Surface crochet is a technique to add stitches to the surface of your project using slip stitches. This is a fairly simple technique that gives you a pretty chain along the top of your project. The wrong side of your project looks like it has little dashes instead of the chain.
The two most important things to remember when doing surface crochet are:
1. Make sure the right side of your project is facing you and,
2. Don’t make your slip stitches too tight!
I cannot stress #2 enough. If your slip stitches are too tight, it can warp your fabric and your fabric will lose it’s elasticity because the slip stitches will prevent the fabric from stretching. If you need to go up a hook size (or two) in order to help keep a loose tension on your slip stitches, don’t hesitate to do it. You may kick yourself later if you don’t.To do surface crochet, start with the right side of the fabric facing you:
- Insert your hook into the stitch you want to start with from right side of the fabric to the wrong side. Put your slip knot onto your hook and pull from the wrong side of your fabric to the right side of your fabric. You will be holding the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric as you do this
- Insert your hook into the next stitch/or spot you are wanting to make your stitch in. Pull up a loop through your fabric and pull through the loop on your hook. 1 slip stitch created.
- Repeat these steps until you are satisfied with your surface crochet and FO. I like to pull my tail to the back of my work and then weave my ends in.
If you want to see a video tutorial on surface crochet to see it in action, check out this video by B.Hooked Crochet HERE.
Crochet Tartan Cowl
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
6.0 mm hook
188 yards/172 m (3.3 oz/94 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Stardust
68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Cranberry
68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Moss
3 – 1.5” Buttons
Tapestry Needle
ScissorsAbbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
FO = Finish OffGet an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.
Finished size: Approximately 35” Long by 10” wideGauge: 14 sts x 11.5 rows = 4 inches
NOTES: You’ll be doing surface crochet stitches to create the vertical striping of the tartan. When doing the vertical striping, if you find that your fabric is losing a lot of stretch or bunching up, it means your slip stitches are too tight. Make sure you keep your slip stitches loose. Don’t hesitate to go up a hook size or two to keep your stitches from being too tight.
Pattern
Using Stardust, CH 35
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook and each st across. (34)
Rows 2 – 4: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Cranberry
Rows 5 – 6: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Stardust
Row 7: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Moss
Rows 8 – 9: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Stardust
Rows 10 – 15: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Cranberry
Rows 16 – 17: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Stardust
Row 18: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Moss
Rows 19 – 20: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns for free.
Rows 21 – 97: Repeat rows 10 – 20 7 more times. (34)
If you want a longer cowl, keep repeating Rows 10 – 20 and return to Row 98 when ready to complete.
Change to Stardust
Row 98: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts. CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 8 sts, CH 3, SK 3 the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 9 sts, CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (25 sts and 3 CH spaces)
Row 99: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts. HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the next 8 sts, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC 9, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (34)
Rows 100 – 101: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
FO and weave in ends.Adding the vertical stripes using surface crochet:
Using Cranberry, make a slip knot. Insert your hook into the bottom part of your third stitch in your starting chain of the cowl. Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project. With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches) and the right side facing you, slip stitch into the third stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl. FO. Repeat these steps again, starting in the 12th stitch of each row, the 22nd stitch of each row and the 31st stitch of each row.Using Moss, make a slip knot. Insert your hook into the bottom part of your fourth stitch in your starting chain of the cowl. Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project. With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches), working right to left, slip stitch into the fourth stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl. FO. Repeat these steps again in the 13th stitch of each row, 23rd stitch of each row and the 32nd stitch of each row
FO and weave in ends.
Sew your buttons using a length of stardust yarn onto the long side of the cowl, on the end of the piece without the button holes To get the right placement, I fold the two ends of the cowl down so they overlap each other (the end with the button holes on top). Place the buttons on top of the buttonholes and sew into place. I like to shift the end with the button holes down a little bit so that end of the cowl on the bottom lines up with the last line of surface stitches rather than the edge of the cowl so there’s less chance of the corner without a button creeping out on you.Fold the top edge down to form a collar
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my pattern for the Crochet Tartan Cowl. If you like free crochet cowl patterns, check out the free patter for my Ava Cowl or my Super Quick Chunky Cowl.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
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The Aeipathy Beanie
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links. The Aeipathy Beanie is a crochet hat pattern that combines two of my favourite stitches: Bobble Stitch and Camel Stitch. I also love the colour purple. So when it was time to come up with a name, The Aeipathy Beanie seemed appropriate since Aeipathy means “a continued passion” and I definitely have a continued passion for textured stitches and crochet in general.
To make this hat, I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn in Hot Springs which is a size 4 aran weight yarn. Some great yarns that you could use as substitute for the Heartland yarn are: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Caron One Pound and Red Heart With Love yarn. Ultimately, as long as you match gauge, you can use another medium weight, size 4 yarn that isn’t in the list suggested above.
I like to top my crochet hats with a faux fur pompom but that step is optional. If you want to take a hand at making your own DIY faux fur pom pom, this tutorial from Heart Hook Home is really helpful. I’ve used the same process described in the tutorial to make my own pom poms with success. However, time is often limited so I generally use THESE pompoms from Amazon.
Save it for later on Pinterest HERE.
To make this crochet hat, you’ll need to know how to crochet in the third loop of a stitch (aka camel stitch), single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and how to make a magic circle.
Aeipathy Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
5.5 mm crochet hook
3.8oz/109 yards of Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in Hot Springs
Tapestry Needle
Faux Fur Pom Pom (optional)Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase
DC = Double Crochet
DC Increase = Double Crochet Increase
Bobble = Bobble Stitch (see Special Stitches for instructions for this stitch)
MC = Magic Circle
FO = Finish OffGet an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Size: One Size – Adult
Finished size: Approximately 8.5 inches tall x 10 inches wide.Gauge: 17 HDC sts across x 12 rows = 4” square
NOTES:
– On the bobble stitch rows, the hat is worked with the wrong side facing you so that the bobble stitches will push out to the right side of the work.
– Join indicates that you should join the last stitch of the round to the top of the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch.
– CH 2 at the beginning of DC rounds counts as a stitch.
Special Stitches:
Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG). To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook). Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.
Pattern
Row 1: Make a MC. CH 2 and DC 11 into the MC. Join to the top of the first DC with a slip stitch. From here on referred to as “Join”. (12)
Row 2: CH 2. DC in the first stitch, DCINC in the next 11 stitches. Join. CH 2 and turn (24)
Row 3: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch). Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join. CH 2 and turn. (24)
Row 4: (HDCINC in the first stitch, HDC 1 in the next stitch). Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join and CH 2. (36)
Row 5: In 3rd loop, HDC 1 in the first stitch, HDCINC in the next stitch, (HDC 2, HDCINC) repeat this pattern 11 times, HDC 1 in the last stitch. Join and CH 2 (48)
Row 6: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 3 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12. Join and CH 2 (60)
Row 7: HDC in the first 2 stitches, HDCINC in the next. (HDC in the next 4 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 11, HDC in the last 2 stitches. Join and CH 2 (72)
Row 8: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 5 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Row 9: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 10: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Rows 11 – 12: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Row 13: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Row 14: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 15: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 16: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 (84)
Rows 17 – 18: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Row 19: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 (84)
Row 20: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 21: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Row 22: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Rows 23 – 24: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Row 25: Repeat Row 22. (84)
Rows 26 – 28: Repeat Row 23. (84)
FO and weave in ends. If using pompom, secure to the top of the hat using your preferred method.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like to make crochet hats? Check out my free crochet hat patterns for the Arctic Gem Beanie and the Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat.
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Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The kids are back in school and there is a bit of a chill in the air and that means one thing… Halloween is almost here! It’s time to work on an adorable and fun crochet Halloween pillow. The Mad About Boo Halloween Pillow is an easy crochet project that is fun without being too scary for young kids.
This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique. Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work. Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour.
Pillow Panels
The front panel of the Mad About Boo crochet Halloween pillow (the ghost side) is worked using the Instaria technique. I made small balls/bobbins of black yarn to minimize how much “floating” was happening behind my panel. It meant a few extra ends to weave in, however, it was cleaner and minimized pulling on the back. If you don’t carry your yarn loosely, it can cause your panel not to lay flat so be sure to watch the tension on that yarn.
Reading Intarsia Colour Charts
To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left. For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again. Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction. Each square in your chart = 1 SC stitch
The back panel of the halloween pillow is made is the standard crochet technique and it made using only one colour.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy which includes both the chart and the written instructions for this pattern.
1 box = 1 stitch Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
4.5 mm hook
3.6 oz/103g of Red Heart Super Saver in Black
2.6 oz/73g of Red Heart Super Saver in White
0.7 oz/19g of Red Heart Super Saver in Carrot
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Don’t lose it! Pin it for later HERE.
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
FO = Finish OffFinished size: 11.5” Long by 10” tall
Gauge: 15 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches
NOTES:
- Each square = 1 SC stitch
- To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left. For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again. Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction.
- This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique. Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work. Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour.
- You can use the chart or the written instructions for the pattern for the front panel. The written instructions are needed for the back panel and edging.
Front Panel
Row 1: Using Black, CH 45 SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across. CH 1 turn. (44 sts)
Row 2: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 3: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 9 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 4: 6 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 8 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 5: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 7 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 6: 4 Black, 25 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 7: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 8: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 9: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 10: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 11: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 12: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 13: 15 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 14: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 15: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 16: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 17: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 18: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 19: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 20: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 21: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 22: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 23: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 24: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 25: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 26: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 27: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 28: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 29: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 30: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 31: 16 Black, 23 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 32: 6 Black, 21 White, 6 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 33: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 7 Black, 19 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 34: 8 Black, 17 White, 8 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 35: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 9 Black, 15 White, 9 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 36: 10 Black, 13 White, 10 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 37: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 11 Black, 11 White, 11 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 38: 33 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 39: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 40: 44 Black. (44 sts)Fasten off and sew in your ends
Back Panel
Using Black, CH 45.
Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across (44)
Rows 2 – 40: CH 1 and turn. SC in the first stitch and in each stitch across. (44)
FO and weave in ends.
Assembly and Trim
Row 1: Place the panels on top of one another with the wrong sides facing each other and the front panel on top. We’ll be crocheting through both layers to add a trim to our pillow as well as seam it together. Attach the yarn to any stitch along the top of the pillow and working through both layers, SC in the same stitch that you joined, SC around the pillow, putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each corner. When you’re about ¾ of the way around your pillow, start adding your stuffing. Continue to stuff firmly as you add your trim and your pillow is fully seamed closed. Join to the first stitch with a sl st.
Row 2: Ch 1 and SC in each stitch around, placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each HDC stitch from the previous round. Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a sl st. FO and weave in ends.
You don’t have to finish the pillow here. Add some stripes, tassels or pompoms to your edging to spice it up and give it a bit more flair.
Now that you’re done with your crochet Halloween pillow, why not get a jump on your Christmas decor with these free Christmas crochet patterns: Saint Prickolaus Cactus Cuddler and Randy the Cactus Reindeer.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter! -
How to Half Double Crochet (HDC)
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The half double crochet stitch is a simple, basic and versatile stitch. In terms of height, this stitch is half way between a single crochet and a double crochet stitch. This tutorial will show you how to do the half double crochet stitch with simple, step-by-step photos and instructions.
When the half double crochet stitch is used in a pattern, it will be abbreviated as HDC.
Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain your desired number of stitches. Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the third chain (CH) from the hook through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. (You will never work in the 1st chain from the hook unless it is specified in the pattern).
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull the yarn through the chain. You will now have three loops on your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull through all three loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. One half double crochet stitch (HDC) completed.
Step 4: Yarn over and insert your hook into the next chain (CH) through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Yarn over (YO), pull through the chain. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over (YO) and pull through all three loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. This is your second half double crochet stitch (HDC) completed.
Repeat Step 4 in each remaining chain.To add a second (or more) row(s):
To add a second row of HDC stitches, chain 2 and turn your work counterclockwise. You’ll now be working across the tops of the stitches you just made.
Step 1: Yarn over and insert your hook into the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops (often referred to as the first stitch because it is the first stitch of this row), yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through all three loops on your hook. One HDC Stitch completed.
Note: The chain 2 does not count as a stitch unless the pattern tells you otherwise
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through all three loops on your hook. One HDC stitch completed.
Step 3: Repeat Step 2 in each remaining HDC stitch across.
To add more rows, you would repeat the instructions for adding your second row until your piece reaches the desired size.
I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post. Like stitch tutorials? Check out my Foundation Half Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial! Want a pattern that uses this stitch? Check out my Sloth Cup Cozy Pattern.
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The Bobblelicious Bag – Free Crochet Pattern
This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links. The Bobblelicious Bag is a fun crochet circle bag that is made of super chunky bobble stitches. Once it is assembled, it kind of looks like a pillbox bag. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder “where did she buy that bag?”.
The Bobblelicious Bag is crocheted by holding two strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota Chunky Yarn together. Sarasota Chunky is a cotton/acrylic (60%/40%) mix size 5 yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable (yay!) and it comes in a variety of colours. (www.cascadeyarns.com) I really enjoyed working with this yarn for this project.
I decided to take my hand at lining this bag and I am so glad that I did. It is one of my favourite parts of this bag. I picked a cotton fabric in a vibrant teal colour to line my bag. So although the outside of my bag may be a subtle silver/grey colour, there’s that beautiful pop of colour when you open it. I can’t wait to see what colour combos you all come up with when you’re making your Bobblelicious Bags!
A peek of the inside of my Bobblelicious Bag Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
- 10 mm hook
- Approximately 1 ball** (6.9 oz/195g) of Sarasota Chunky Yarn in Silver (Colour No. 222) **See Note section regard the potential need for a second skein.
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Marker
- 9″ Zipper in a coordinating colour
- 51” Purse Strap – I got mine HERE. It came with the tassel that I attached to the zipper
- 2 – 1” wide triangle rings for making detachable straps (I used these HERE)
- 0.25 meters of heavy weight fusible interfacing (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
- 0.25 meters of fabric (I used cotton) in your preferred colour for lining the inside of your bag (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
- Sewing Needle
- Iron
- Sewing thread that matches the colour of your bag
- Sewing Machine for lining your bag
- Fabric marker/pencil or something to mark your fabric with
- Fabric Scissors
- Sewing Pins
Get a copy of the inexpensive ad-free PDF HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- SC = Single Crochet
- DC = Double Crochet
- MC = Magic Circle
- FO = Finish Off
- Bobble = Bobble Stich
Special Stitches: Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG). To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook). Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.
Size: One Size
Finished size: Approximately 9 inches tall x 9 inches wide x 3” deep. Measurements do not include strapGauge: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 4” square
Pin in for later: HERE
NOTES:- This bag is made out of two different panels that are worked in the round and then sewn together. The end of each round is joined with a sl st.
- This bag is made holding two strands of yarn together. You can use one skein of yarn and pull from both ends of the skein or get two skeins and pull from the center of each skein.
Panels (Make 2)
Row 1: Holding 2 strands of Sarasota chunky yarn together, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (6)
Row 2: *SC 1, Bobble* in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (12)
Row 3: (SCINC) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (24)
Row 4: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC 1 in the next) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1 (24)
Row 5: (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next) x 12. Join with a sl st to the first st. CH 1. (36)
Row 6: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 18. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (36)
Row 7: (SC 2, SCINC in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1(48)
Row 8: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (48)
Row 9: SC in each stitch around. (48)
FO and weave in ends.
Lining Your Bobblelicious Bag
Fold the fabric you will be lining your bag with, in half so you can cut two circles at the same time. Lay one of your bag panels on top of the fabric and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew. You should now have two fabric circles. Repeat these steps again on your interfacing so you have a total of 2 fabric circles and 2 interfacing circles.
Using your iron, fuse one of your fabric circles to each of your interfacing circles. This means you’ll have two interfacing circles with fabric on them.
Place your interfacing circles (fabric side facing the wrong side of your panel so that if there are holes in your panel, the coloured fabric will show through) on the back of each of your panels. If your circles are too big to fit inside the panel without stretching it, trim the circles down until they fit snuggly inside each panel.
Once you’re confident with the fit, of your interfacing circles, lay one of your interfacing circles on top of the fabric that has been folded in half and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew. You should now have 2 interfacing circles (fused with fabric) and 2 fabric circles.
Measure the width of your bag and add 1” for seam allowances. Measure the circumference (around the outside) of your bag and subtract 8 inches from that measurement (to leave space for your zipper). Using these measurements, cut a strip from your fabric.
Pin a fabric circle to each edge of the long strip you just cut, leaving a 1/2” seam allowance. Sew around the edge of each circle to seam it to the strip, stopping at the end of the strip. This is honestly probably the most time-consuming part so take your time.
Adding the Zipper
Cut a 9.5” – 10” long x 4” wide piece of fabric and cut it in half. These pieces will be sewn onto either side of the zipper. Fold the long edge of each strip a ¼” and iron it down to hold it in place. Pin that edge to your zipper (with nice side of fabric facing up) ensuring that you leave enough for the zipper to move freely. Repeat with the second strip. Sew the strips onto your zipper.
With the zipper facing up and the bag lining with the wrong side facing out, line up your zipper with the opening on your lining that was left for the zipper. Pin together, leaving a ¼ to ½” seam allowance and sew together, around the entire piece.
Assembly
Place your interfusing panels inside each of your crocheted panels. If your panels aren’t fitting snuggly you can tack them in place by hand sewing them with a coordinating thread to your crochet panel. Place the two crochet panels together with right sides facing out. Holding two long lengths of yarn together, whip stitch the two panels together, leaving an opening of at least 9.5” for the zipper. You may want to wait until you are done sewing in your zipper before you weave in the ends from this so if you need a little extra wiggle room to get your zipper in, you’ll have some give in the seam because it isn’t finished.
Place your lining (with the wrong side facing out) inside the purse and using a sewing thread and needle, hand sew the zipper to the opening of your bag. Weave in your ends from your whip stitch seam.
Line up your triangle rings on each side of the bag, approximately 2.5” inches below the edges of your zipper. Using a length of yarn, sew to your bag. Attach your purse strap to the triangle rings. If using a tassel, attach it to the zipper.
Viola! You’re finished your Bobblelicious Bag! I hope you enjoy 😊
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished Bobblelicious Bag! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like making crochet bags? Check out my free patterns for The Vendbar Tote (The Reversible Tote Bag), The Colour Block Makeup Bag or The Rainbow Saver Tote Bag.
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Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. There is something timeless and classic about a good chevron blanket. I have made my Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket so many times this year for baby showers that I could probably crochet one in my sleep. This blanket is honestly a huge hit no matter what colour I made it in. I have even made it in colours that I wasn’t particularly drawn to and ended up loving it so much I kept it for my daugther.
Using Bernat Blanket Stripes yarn, (my go-to blanket yarn) which is a super bulky, size 6 yarn, this blanket works up in a jiffy. I have made one in two evenings or about 6 to 8 hours.
Pin this for later HERE.
The blanket is so soft and warm, that it is great to lay baby on for tummy time and the size is big enough that it can be used as a lapghan. Because, let’s be honest, babies need blankets long after their no longer babies. The one at our house is used by everyone on an almost daily basis.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern here (buy now) on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.
You only need to know how to chain and single crochet for this blanket so it is super simple. If you can do that and count up to 8, you’re ready to make yourself a Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket. I know you’re excited to get started and now I want to start another one, so let’s get to the pattern.
Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket
Skill Level: Beginner
Supplies:
10 mm hook
3 balls of Bernat Blanket Stripes in the same colour. I’m using Teal Deal
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
FO = Finish Off
Finished size: 38” Long by 34” wide
Gauge: 8 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches
NOTES: For this pattern, in order to maintain the colour pattern that is created with your first 12 rows, you’ll likely have to deconstruct two of your balls of Bernat Blanket. If you’re able to get 3 balls of yarn that all start on the same colour, you’ll be able to minimize how much deconstruction that will be needed.
CH 97.
Row 1: SC 2 in the 2nd chain from the hook. *SC in the next 8 CH, skip the next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 3 SC in the next CH*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC in the next 8 CH, skip next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 2 SC in the last CH. CH 1 and turn. (96)Rows 2 – 3: SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
You won’t have enough of your starting colour to complete another full row so I recommend cutting your yarn here and reattaching the yarn in the next colour in your ball. If you don’t want to weave in your ends and don’t mind mid-row colour changes, you can keep going without cutting your yarn.
This is the same pattern made in Bernat Blanket Stripes in the colourway Seashells Rows 4 – 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Change to next colour in your ball.Rows 7 – 9: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Change to next colour in your ball.
Rows 10 – 12: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Rows 13 – 48: Repeat Rows 1 – 12, 4 more times. (96)FO and weave in ends. Enjoy your Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket!
Disclaimer:
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