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Knitcrate Unboxing and Review
This post contains affiliate links. All opinions are my own. This month, I received my first-ever subscription box – the October 2019 Knitcrate. I’ve been interested in the possibility of getting a subscription box but wasn’t sure what kind to get. Honestly, a lot of them come with stuff that although it may be kind of cool, I would never use. When I found out about yarn subscription boxes, I knew I had to get one. Yarn delivered to my door every month? Yeah, I’m obviously signing up for that. After some research, I found Knitcrate. I was intrigued after checking them out online and decided to contact them to try it out. Once I received it, I obviously wanted to share with you my Knitcrate unboxing and review of the October 2019 Knitcrate.
Knitcrate Unboxing: What Comes in a Knitcrate anyway?
Every month Knitcrate sends you one or more skeins of premium yarn and a pattern book with both a knit and crochet pattern using the yarn you received in your box. I’m not sure if every crate includes a little surprise, but my crate also came with a cute little locking stitch marker. Additional to the items that come in the Knitcrate, members receive 25% purchases made in the online store at Knitcrate.com.
Use code LOOPY20 to get 20% off your first crate HERE.
*Please note the hook did not come with the crate* Why Knitcrate?
One of the reasons I was intrigued by Knitcrate was the number of options available for your Knitcrate. Knitcrate.com offers the regular Knitcrate box, a Sock Crate for sock knitters and two different crates that they offer inconjunction with Malabrigo and something called Mrs. Crosby Travels Quarterly crate. I looked into the regular Knitcrate and from there, you have more options.
Each Knitcrate is curated to fit a “vibe”. The “vibes” to choose from are “Energize Me”, “All Natural”, “Chill Out” and “Anything Goes”.Each vibe speaks to a set of colours that the yarn you receive will be selected from. Energize Me is for those that love bright, bold colours. All Natural is for those that have an affinity for earth tones and neutrals. Chill Out is a collection of relaxing tones like blues, greens and purples. And Anything Goes is for the adventurous spirit that wants to be surprised with what they receive every month. Knitcrate provides a colour pallete image for each selection so you have an idea of what you can expect for each selection.
What is the yarn like?
The yarn that came in my October Knitcrate is GORGEOUS. My Knitcrate came with two skeins of yarn. When I first opened the box, I was surprised by the size of the skeins and just how gorgeous the colour was. The rich purple colour is heather with pink hues and it is just beautiful. I got the Chill Out box this month and the yarn is called Vidalana Ascendance in the colourway Tassel. It’s 100% fine peruvian highland wool. It is a sport weight chainette style yarn and each skein comes with 328 yards. My first impressions upon taking it out of the box was that the yarn was very soft and it has some serious squish factor.
I’m really impressed with the amount of yarn I received in the box. I think it’s great that there is not just enough yarn to make the patterns in the book but should I choose not to use the pattern in the book, I’ve got enough to make something else.
What kind of patterns came with the Knitcrate?
The October Knitcrate I received came with a pattern book and at the front of the book, it shows which yarn was included in the different Knitcrate boxes for this month and it gives you the story behind the yarn I received. The book for this month includes a knitting pattern for a pretty shawl by Aimee Hanson and a crochet pattern for a Bundling Blanket and Bonnet Set. The book includes the patterns for the sock crates too so although the patterns aren’t meant for the yarn you received, you still get the patterns which is cool.
Overall Thoughts on my first Knitcrate Unboxing and Review
I am seriously impressed with my first Knitcrate. The yarn is gorgeous, the patterns look clear and easy to make and I also got this cute little stitch marker. If you’re considering getting a yarn subscription box, I definitely recommend checking Knitcrate out.
Get a discount on your first Knitcrate
Knitcrate has offered my followers a 20% discount off your first subscription box using the code LOOPY20. You can check out Knitcrate though this link HERE.
Thanks for reading my Knitcrate unboxing and review! If you enjoy reading reviews, be sure to check out my Dinosaurs to Crochet Book Review and my Snuggle and Play Crochet Book Review.
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Crochet Tartan Cowl – Free Crochet Cowl Pattern
The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches. If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl. I can’t wait to see all of the colour combos everyone comes up with!
The Crochet Tartan Cowl is made using three different colours of Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn. I’ve used the colours Moss, Cranberry and Stardust. This was my first time using Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn and it was love at first squish. This yarn is an acrylic/alpaca blend (90%/10%) and is is delightfully soft and cozy. It does have a little bit of a halo (I suspect from the addition of the alpaca fibers) but doesn’t hinder visibility or diminish stitch definition. The colours are rich and beautiful. I mean, that cranberry yarn is so awesome, that I want to use it for everything right now. This is definitely a yarn that I want to keep handy in my stash.
Pin it for later HERE.
The Crochet Tartan Cowl measures approximately 10 inches wide by 35 inches long. The cowl fits closely to the neck and you fold the top edge down to create a sort of collar. If you prefer a looser fitting cowl, the pattern gives you intstructions for making the cowl any length you prefer. If you do alter the length of your cowl, please keep in mind that it will affect how much yarn you will require.
How to Surface Crochet
To make the vertical striping on the Crochet Tartan Cowl, I used a technique called surface crochet. Surface crochet is a technique to add stitches to the surface of your project using slip stitches. This is a fairly simple technique that gives you a pretty chain along the top of your project. The wrong side of your project looks like it has little dashes instead of the chain.
The two most important things to remember when doing surface crochet are:
1. Make sure the right side of your project is facing you and,
2. Don’t make your slip stitches too tight!
I cannot stress #2 enough. If your slip stitches are too tight, it can warp your fabric and your fabric will lose it’s elasticity because the slip stitches will prevent the fabric from stretching. If you need to go up a hook size (or two) in order to help keep a loose tension on your slip stitches, don’t hesitate to do it. You may kick yourself later if you don’t.To do surface crochet, start with the right side of the fabric facing you:
- Insert your hook into the stitch you want to start with from right side of the fabric to the wrong side. Put your slip knot onto your hook and pull from the wrong side of your fabric to the right side of your fabric. You will be holding the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric as you do this
- Insert your hook into the next stitch/or spot you are wanting to make your stitch in. Pull up a loop through your fabric and pull through the loop on your hook. 1 slip stitch created.
- Repeat these steps until you are satisfied with your surface crochet and FO. I like to pull my tail to the back of my work and then weave my ends in.
If you want to see a video tutorial on surface crochet to see it in action, check out this video by B.Hooked Crochet HERE.
Crochet Tartan Cowl
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
6.0 mm hook
188 yards/172 m (3.3 oz/94 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Stardust
68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Cranberry
68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Moss
3 – 1.5” Buttons
Tapestry Needle
ScissorsAbbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
FO = Finish OffGet an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.
Finished size: Approximately 35” Long by 10” wideGauge: 14 sts x 11.5 rows = 4 inches
NOTES: You’ll be doing surface crochet stitches to create the vertical striping of the tartan. When doing the vertical striping, if you find that your fabric is losing a lot of stretch or bunching up, it means your slip stitches are too tight. Make sure you keep your slip stitches loose. Don’t hesitate to go up a hook size or two to keep your stitches from being too tight.
Pattern
Using Stardust, CH 35
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook and each st across. (34)
Rows 2 – 4: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Cranberry
Rows 5 – 6: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Stardust
Row 7: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Moss
Rows 8 – 9: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Stardust
Rows 10 – 15: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Cranberry
Rows 16 – 17: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Stardust
Row 18: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Change to Moss
Rows 19 – 20: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
Rows 21 – 97: Repeat rows 10 – 20 7 more times. (34)
If you want a longer cowl, keep repeating Rows 10 – 20 and return to Row 98 when ready to complete.
Change to Stardust
Row 98: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts. CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 8 sts, CH 3, SK 3 the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 9 sts, CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (25 sts and 3 CH spaces)
Row 99: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts. HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the next 8 sts, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC 9, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (34)
Rows 100 – 101: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
FO and weave in ends.Adding the vertical stripes using surface crochet:
Using Cranberry, make a slip knot. Insert your hook into the bottom part of your third stitch in your starting chain of the cowl. Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project. With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches) and the right side facing you, slip stitch into the third stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl. FO. Repeat these steps again, starting in the 12th stitch of each row, the 22nd stitch of each row and the 31st stitch of each row.Using Moss, make a slip knot. Insert your hook into the bottom part of your fourth stitch in your starting chain of the cowl. Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project. With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches), working right to left, slip stitch into the fourth stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl. FO. Repeat these steps again in the 13th stitch of each row, 23rd stitch of each row and the 32nd stitch of each row
FO and weave in ends.
Sew your buttons using a length of stardust yarn onto the long side of the cowl, on the end of the piece without the button holes To get the right placement, I fold the two ends of the cowl down so they overlap each other (the end with the button holes on top). Place the buttons on top of the buttonholes and sew into place. I like to shift the end with the button holes down a little bit so that end of the cowl on the bottom lines up with the last line of surface stitches rather than the edge of the cowl so there’s less chance of the corner without a button creeping out on you.Fold the top edge down to form a collar
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my pattern for the Crochet Tartan Cowl. If you like free crochet cowl patterns, check out the free patter for my Ava Cowl or my Super Quick Chunky Cowl.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!
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The Aeipathy Beanie
The Aeipathy Beanie is a crochet hat pattern that combines two of my favourite stitches: Bobble Stitch and Camel Stitch. I also love the colour purple. So when it was time to come up with a name, The Aeipathy Beanie seemed appropriate since Aeipathy means “a continued passion” and I definitely have a continued passion for textured stitches and crochet in general.
To make this hat, I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn in Hot Springs which is a size 4 aran weight yarn. Some great yarns that you could use as substitute for the Heartland yarn are: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Caron One Pound and Red Heart With Love yarn. Ultimately, as long as you match gauge, you can use another medium weight, size 4 yarn that isn’t in the list suggested above.
I like to top my crochet hats with a faux fur pompom but that step is optional. If you want to take a hand at making your own DIY faux fur pom pom, this tutorial from Heart Hook Home is really helpful. I’ve used the same process described in the tutorial to make my own pom poms with success. However, time is often limited so I generally use THESE pompoms from Amazon.
Save it for later on Pinterest HERE.
To make this crochet hat, you’ll need to know how to crochet in the third loop of a stitch (aka camel stitch), single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and how to make a magic circle.
Aeipathy Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
5.5 mm crochet hook
3.8oz/109 yards of Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in Hot Springs
Tapestry Needle
Faux Fur Pom Pom (optional)Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase
DC = Double Crochet
DC Increase = Double Crochet Increase
Bobble = Bobble Stitch (see Special Stitches for instructions for this stitch)
MC = Magic Circle
FO = Finish OffGet an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Size: One Size – Adult
Finished size: Approximately 8.5 inches tall x 10 inches wide.Gauge: 17 HDC sts across x 12 rows = 4” square
NOTES:
– On the bobble stitch rows, the hat is worked with the wrong side facing you so that the bobble stitches will push out to the right side of the work.
– Join indicates that you should join the last stitch of the round to the top of the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch.
– CH 2 at the beginning of DC rounds counts as a stitch.
Special Stitches:
Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG). To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook). Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.
Pattern
Row 1: Make a MC. CH 2 and DC 11 into the MC. Join to the top of the first DC with a slip stitch. From here on referred to as “Join”. (12)
Row 2: CH 2. DC in the first stitch, DCINC in the next 11 stitches. Join. CH 2 and turn (24)
Row 3: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch). Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join. CH 2 and turn. (24)
Row 4: (HDCINC in the first stitch, HDC 1 in the next stitch). Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join and CH 2. (36)
Row 5: In 3rd loop, HDC 1 in the first stitch, HDCINC in the next stitch, (HDC 2, HDCINC) repeat this pattern 11 times, HDC 1 in the last stitch. Join and CH 2 (48)
Row 6: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 3 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12. Join and CH 2 (60)
Row 7: HDC in the first 2 stitches, HDCINC in the next. (HDC in the next 4 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 11, HDC in the last 2 stitches. Join and CH 2 (72)
Row 8: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 5 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Row 9: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 10: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Rows 11 – 12: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Row 13: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Row 14: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 15: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 16: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 (84)
Rows 17 – 18: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Row 19: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 (84)
Row 20: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn (84)
Row 21: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Row 22: HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
Rows 23 – 24: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around. Join. CH 2. (84)
Row 25: Repeat Row 22. (84)
Rows 26 – 28: Repeat Row 23. (84)
FO and weave in ends. If using pompom, secure to the top of the hat using your preferred method.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like to make crochet hats? Check out my free crochet hat patterns for the Arctic Gem Beanie and the Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat.
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Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The kids are back in school and there is a bit of a chill in the air and that means one thing… Halloween is almost here! It’s time to work on an adorable and fun crochet Halloween pillow. The Mad About Boo Halloween Pillow is an easy crochet project that is fun without being too scary for young kids.
This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique. Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work. Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour.
Pillow Panels
The front panel of the Mad About Boo crochet Halloween pillow (the ghost side) is worked using the Instaria technique. I made small balls/bobbins of black yarn to minimize how much “floating” was happening behind my panel. It meant a few extra ends to weave in, however, it was cleaner and minimized pulling on the back. If you don’t carry your yarn loosely, it can cause your panel not to lay flat so be sure to watch the tension on that yarn.
Reading Intarsia Colour Charts
To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left. For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again. Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction. Each square in your chart = 1 SC stitch
The back panel of the halloween pillow is made is the standard crochet technique and it made using only one colour.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy which includes both the chart and the written instructions for this pattern.
1 box = 1 stitch Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
4.5 mm hook
3.6 oz/103g of Red Heart Super Saver in Black
2.6 oz/73g of Red Heart Super Saver in White
0.7 oz/19g of Red Heart Super Saver in Carrot
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Don’t lose it! Pin it for later HERE.
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
FO = Finish OffFinished size: 11.5” Long by 10” tall
Gauge: 15 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches
NOTES:
- Each square = 1 SC stitch
- To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left. For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again. Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction.
- This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique. Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work. Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour.
- You can use the chart or the written instructions for the pattern for the front panel. The written instructions are needed for the back panel and edging.
Front Panel
Row 1: Using Black, CH 45 SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across. CH 1 turn. (44 sts)
Row 2: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 3: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 9 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 4: 6 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 8 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 5: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 7 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 6: 4 Black, 25 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 7: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 8: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 9: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 10: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 11: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 12: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 13: 15 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 14: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 15: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 16: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 17: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 18: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 19: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 20: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 21: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 22: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 23: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 24: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 25: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 26: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 27: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 28: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 29: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 30: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 31: 16 Black, 23 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 32: 6 Black, 21 White, 6 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 33: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 7 Black, 19 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 34: 8 Black, 17 White, 8 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 35: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 9 Black, 15 White, 9 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 36: 10 Black, 13 White, 10 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 37: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 11 Black, 11 White, 11 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 38: 33 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
Row 39: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
Row 40: 44 Black. (44 sts)Fasten off and sew in your ends
Back Panel
Using Black, CH 45.
Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across (44)
Rows 2 – 40: CH 1 and turn. SC in the first stitch and in each stitch across. (44)
FO and weave in ends.
Assembly and Trim
Row 1: Place the panels on top of one another with the wrong sides facing each other and the front panel on top. We’ll be crocheting through both layers to add a trim to our pillow as well as seam it together. Attach the yarn to any stitch along the top of the pillow and working through both layers, SC in the same stitch that you joined, SC around the pillow, putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each corner. When you’re about ¾ of the way around your pillow, start adding your stuffing. Continue to stuff firmly as you add your trim and your pillow is fully seamed closed. Join to the first stitch with a sl st.
Row 2: Ch 1 and SC in each stitch around, placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each HDC stitch from the previous round. Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a sl st. FO and weave in ends.
You don’t have to finish the pillow here. Add some stripes, tassels or pompoms to your edging to spice it up and give it a bit more flair.
Now that you’re done with your crochet Halloween pillow, why not get a jump on your Christmas decor with these free Christmas crochet patterns: Saint Prickolaus Cactus Cuddler and Randy the Cactus Reindeer.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter! -
How to Half Double Crochet (HDC)
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The half double crochet stitch is a simple, basic and versatile stitch. In terms of height, this stitch is half way between a single crochet and a double crochet stitch. This tutorial will show you how to do the half double crochet stitch with simple, step-by-step photos and instructions.
When the half double crochet stitch is used in a pattern, it will be abbreviated as HDC.
Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain your desired number of stitches. Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the third chain (CH) from the hook through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. (You will never work in the 1st chain from the hook unless it is specified in the pattern).
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull the yarn through the chain. You will now have three loops on your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull through all three loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. One half double crochet stitch (HDC) completed.
Step 4: Yarn over and insert your hook into the next chain (CH) through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Yarn over (YO), pull through the chain. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over (YO) and pull through all three loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. This is your second half double crochet stitch (HDC) completed.
Repeat Step 4 in each remaining chain.To add a second (or more) row(s):
To add a second row of HDC stitches, chain 2 and turn your work counterclockwise. You’ll now be working across the tops of the stitches you just made.
Step 1: Yarn over and insert your hook into the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops (often referred to as the first stitch because it is the first stitch of this row), yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through all three loops on your hook. One HDC Stitch completed.
Note: The chain 2 does not count as a stitch unless the pattern tells you otherwise
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) and insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through all three loops on your hook. One HDC stitch completed.
Step 3: Repeat Step 2 in each remaining HDC stitch across.
To add more rows, you would repeat the instructions for adding your second row until your piece reaches the desired size.
I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post. Like stitch tutorials? Check out my Foundation Half Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial! Want a pattern that uses this stitch? Check out my Sloth Cup Cozy Pattern.
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The Bobblelicious Bag – Free Crochet Pattern
The Bobblelicious Bag is a fun crochet circle bag that is made of super chunky bobble stitches. Once it is assembled, it kind of looks like a pillbox bag. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder “where did she buy that bag?”.
The Bobblelicious Bag is crocheted by holding two strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota Chunky Yarn together. Sarasota Chunky is a cotton/acrylic (60%/40%) mix size 5 yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable (yay!) and it comes in a variety of colours. (www.cascadeyarns.com) I really enjoyed working with this yarn for this project.
I decided to take my hand at lining this bag and I am so glad that I did. It is one of my favourite parts of this bag. I picked a cotton fabric in a vibrant teal colour to line my bag. So although the outside of my bag may be a subtle silver/grey colour, there’s that beautiful pop of colour when you open it. I can’t wait to see what colour combos you all come up with when you’re making your Bobblelicious Bags!
A peek of the inside of my Bobblelicious Bag Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
- 10 mm hook
- Approximately 1 ball** (6.9 oz/195g) of Sarasota Chunky Yarn in Silver (Colour No. 222) **See Note section regard the potential need for a second skein.
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Marker
- 9″ Zipper in a coordinating colour
- 51” Purse Strap – I got mine HERE. It came with the tassel that I attached to the zipper
- 2 – 1” wide triangle rings for making detachable straps (I used these HERE)
- 0.25 meters of heavy weight fusible interfacing (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
- 0.25 meters of fabric (I used cotton) in your preferred colour for lining the inside of your bag (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
- Sewing Needle
- Iron
- Sewing thread that matches the colour of your bag
- Sewing Machine for lining your bag
- Fabric marker/pencil or something to mark your fabric with
- Fabric Scissors
- Sewing Pins
Get a copy of the inexpensive ad-free PDF HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- SC = Single Crochet
- DC = Double Crochet
- MC = Magic Circle
- FO = Finish Off
- Bobble = Bobble Stich
Special Stitches: Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG). To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch. YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO and pull through two loops on your hook). Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.
Size: One Size
Finished size: Approximately 9 inches tall x 9 inches wide x 3” deep. Measurements do not include strapGauge: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 4” square
Pin in for later: HERE
NOTES:- This bag is made out of two different panels that are worked in the round and then sewn together. The end of each round is joined with a sl st.
- This bag is made holding two strands of yarn together. You can use one skein of yarn and pull from both ends of the skein or get two skeins and pull from the center of each skein.
Panels (Make 2)
Row 1: Holding 2 strands of Sarasota chunky yarn together, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (6)
Row 2: *SC 1, Bobble* in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (12)
Row 3: (SCINC) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (24)
Row 4: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC 1 in the next) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1 (24)
Row 5: (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next) x 12. Join with a sl st to the first st. CH 1. (36)
Row 6: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 18. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (36)
Row 7: (SC 2, SCINC in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1(48)
Row 8: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (48)
Row 9: SC in each stitch around. (48)
FO and weave in ends.
Lining Your Bobblelicious Bag
Fold the fabric you will be lining your bag with, in half so you can cut two circles at the same time. Lay one of your bag panels on top of the fabric and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew. You should now have two fabric circles. Repeat these steps again on your interfacing so you have a total of 2 fabric circles and 2 interfacing circles.
Using your iron, fuse one of your fabric circles to each of your interfacing circles. This means you’ll have two interfacing circles with fabric on them.
Place your interfacing circles (fabric side facing the wrong side of your panel so that if there are holes in your panel, the coloured fabric will show through) on the back of each of your panels. If your circles are too big to fit inside the panel without stretching it, trim the circles down until they fit snuggly inside each panel.
Once you’re confident with the fit, of your interfacing circles, lay one of your interfacing circles on top of the fabric that has been folded in half and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew. You should now have 2 interfacing circles (fused with fabric) and 2 fabric circles.
Measure the width of your bag and add 1” for seam allowances. Measure the circumference (around the outside) of your bag and subtract 8 inches from that measurement (to leave space for your zipper). Using these measurements, cut a strip from your fabric.
Pin a fabric circle to each edge of the long strip you just cut, leaving a 1/2” seam allowance. Sew around the edge of each circle to seam it to the strip, stopping at the end of the strip. This is honestly probably the most time-consuming part so take your time.
Adding the Zipper
Cut a 9.5” – 10” long x 4” wide piece of fabric and cut it in half. These pieces will be sewn onto either side of the zipper. Fold the long edge of each strip a ¼” and iron it down to hold it in place. Pin that edge to your zipper (with nice side of fabric facing up) ensuring that you leave enough for the zipper to move freely. Repeat with the second strip. Sew the strips onto your zipper.
With the zipper facing up and the bag lining with the wrong side facing out, line up your zipper with the opening on your lining that was left for the zipper. Pin together, leaving a ¼ to ½” seam allowance and sew together, around the entire piece.
Assembly
Place your interfusing panels inside each of your crocheted panels. If your panels aren’t fitting snuggly you can tack them in place by hand sewing them with a coordinating thread to your crochet panel. Place the two crochet panels together with right sides facing out. Holding two long lengths of yarn together, whip stitch the two panels together, leaving an opening of at least 9.5” for the zipper. You may want to wait until you are done sewing in your zipper before you weave in the ends from this so if you need a little extra wiggle room to get your zipper in, you’ll have some give in the seam because it isn’t finished.
Place your lining (with the wrong side facing out) inside the purse and using a sewing thread and needle, hand sew the zipper to the opening of your bag. Weave in your ends from your whip stitch seam.
Line up your triangle rings on each side of the bag, approximately 2.5” inches below the edges of your zipper. Using a length of yarn, sew to your bag. Attach your purse strap to the triangle rings. If using a tassel, attach it to the zipper.
Viola! You’re finished your Bobblelicious Bag! I hope you enjoy 😊
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished Bobblelicious Bag! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like making crochet bags? Check out my free patterns for The Vendbar Tote (The Reversible Tote Bag), The Colour Block Makeup Bag or The Rainbow Saver Tote Bag.
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Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. There is something timeless and classic about a good chevron blanket. I have made my Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket so many times this year for baby showers that I could probably crochet one in my sleep. This blanket is honestly a huge hit no matter what colour I made it in. I have even made it in colours that I wasn’t particularly drawn to and ended up loving it so much I kept it for my daugther.
Using Bernat Blanket Stripes yarn, (my go-to blanket yarn) which is a super bulky, size 6 yarn, this blanket works up in a jiffy. I have made one in two evenings or about 6 to 8 hours.
Pin this for later HERE.
The blanket is so soft and warm, that it is great to lay baby on for tummy time and the size is big enough that it can be used as a lapghan. Because, let’s be honest, babies need blankets long after their no longer babies. The one at our house is used by everyone on an almost daily basis.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern here (buy now) on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.
You only need to know how to chain and single crochet for this blanket so it is super simple. If you can do that and count up to 8, you’re ready to make yourself a Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket. I know you’re excited to get started and now I want to start another one, so let’s get to the pattern.
Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket
Skill Level: Beginner
Supplies:
10 mm hook
3 balls of Bernat Blanket Stripes in the same colour. I’m using Teal Deal
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
FO = Finish Off
Finished size: 38” Long by 34” wide
Gauge: 8 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches
NOTES: For this pattern, in order to maintain the colour pattern that is created with your first 12 rows, you’ll likely have to deconstruct two of your balls of Bernat Blanket. If you’re able to get 3 balls of yarn that all start on the same colour, you’ll be able to minimize how much deconstruction that will be needed.
CH 97.
Row 1: SC 2 in the 2nd chain from the hook. *SC in the next 8 CH, skip the next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 3 SC in the next CH*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC in the next 8 CH, skip next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 2 SC in the last CH. CH 1 and turn. (96)Rows 2 – 3: SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
You won’t have enough of your starting colour to complete another full row so I recommend cutting your yarn here and reattaching the yarn in the next colour in your ball. If you don’t want to weave in your ends and don’t mind mid-row colour changes, you can keep going without cutting your yarn.
This is the same pattern made in Bernat Blanket Stripes in the colourway Seashells Rows 4 – 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Change to next colour in your ball.Rows 7 – 9: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Change to next colour in your ball.
Rows 10 – 12: CH 1 and turn. SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*. Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times. SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch. (96)
Rows 13 – 48: Repeat Rows 1 – 12, 4 more times. (96)FO and weave in ends. Enjoy your Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!Like making blankets? Check out the free pattern for my Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket.
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How to Single Crochet (SC)
The single crochet stitch is a simple, basic and versatile stitch. This stitch is used extensively in amigurumi patterns as it creates a dense, closed fabric. This tutorial will show you how to do the single crochet stitch with simple, step-by-step photos and instructions.
When the single crochet stitch is used in a pattern, it will be abbreviated as SC.
Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain your desired number of stitches. Insert your hook into the second chain (CH) from the hook through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. (You will never work in the 1st chain from the hook unless it is specified in the pattern).
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull the yarn through the stitch. You will now have two loops on your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over (YO) your hook and pull through both loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. One SC completed.
Step 4: Insert your hook into the next chain (CH) through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Yarn over (YO), pull through the stitch. You will now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over (YO) and pull through both loops on your hook. You will have one loop remaining on your hook. This is your second single crochet stitch (SC) completed.
Repeat Step 4 in each remaining chain.
Completed first row of single crochet stitches To add a second (or more) row(s):
To add a second row of single crochet, chain 1 and turn your work counterclockwise. You’ll now be working across the tops of the stitches you just made.
Step 1: Insert your hook into the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops (often referred to as the first stitch because it is the first stitch of this row), yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch.
Note: The chain 1 does not count as a stitch unless the pattern tells you otherwise
Step 2: Yarn over (YO) and pull through both loops on your hook. One Single Crochet Stitch completed.
Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over (YO) and pull through the stitch. Yarn over (YO) and pull through both loops on your hook. One Single Crochet Stitch completed.
Step 3: Repeat Step 2 in each remaining single crochet stitch across.
To add more rows, you would repeat the instructions for adding your second row until your piece reaches the desired size.
I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post. Like stitch tutorials? Check out my Foundation Single Crochet Stitch Tutorial! Want a pattern that uses the Single Crochet Stitch? Check out my Carter the Carrot Amigurumi Pattern.
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The Vendbar Tote Bag
This post may contain affiliate links. This post is sponsored by Hobbii Yarns. All opions are my own. I am excited to share with you my latest pattern: The Vendbar Tote Bag. This bag has a wonderful texture on the “right side” and that stitch pattern creates a really cool colour pattern on the “wrong side”. It is seriously hard for me to tell you which side I like more. The seam is nearly invisible on this bag due to the textured stitches. So no matter of The Vendbar Tote Bag which side you prefer, just go with it.
During the design process, I always try to come up with a name for a project early on. Naming my projects is something I sometimes struggle with because so many names have been used already. While I was designing this bag, I could not come up with a name I was happy with. My husband suggested the Blueberry You-Carry and although it was hilarious, it wasn’t what I was looking for. Then I came up the idea of using a Danish word since Hobbii Yarns is from Denmark. Vendbar means reversible in Danish. So it isn’t the most creative name if I call it The Reversible Tote but it sounds a bit better when it’s called The Vendbar Tote.
Pin this for Later: Pin This Pattern for Later.
Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
The Vendbar Tote Bag
Skill Level: Intermediate
Supplies:
- 4.0 mm hook
- Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8 Colour Bag in Colour 02. This is a size 3 cotton yarn. If you’re ordering the balls individually, you’ll need 1 ball in the following colours 01 (white), colour 02 (cream). You’ll need 2 balls in the following colours 70 (medium blue), 71 (light blue) and 76 (dark blue). If you don’t intend to match gauge, I recommend ordering a 3rd ball of colour 76 (dark blue).
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker
Get an inexpensive copy of the ad-free, PDF version of both these patterns HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Abbreviations:
CH = Chain
ST = Stitch
SL ST = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
DC = Double Crochet
TR = Triple/Treble Crochet
BLO = Back Loop Only
FO = Finish OffSize: One Size
Finished size: 14 inches tall at bag’s tallest point (not including handles) x 14.75 inches wide.Gauge: 19 sts across x 15 rows (Rows 10 – 23 of bag pattern repeat) = 4” square
The inside of The Vendbar Tote NOTES:
- Anywhere “join” is indicated it means to join the last stitch of the round to the first stitch of the round with a sl st.
- This bag is reversible but how you work your TR stitches is vital to making that happen. When I make my TR stitches (as noted in Row 11), I put my hook through the stitch as normal (under both loops) but I push the stitches of the previous row backwards before I do my YO and pull through the stitch. This ensures that the working yarn doesn’t wrap around the previous row of stitches.
Using Colour 76 (Dark Blue), CH 51
Row 1: In 2nd CH from hook, SCINC. SC 48, SC 3 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the chain, SC 48. SC in the last CH. Join last stitch to first stitch with a sl st. (102)
Row 2: CH 1. SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next. SC 48, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 48, SCINC in the last st. Join with a sl st (106)
Row 3: CH 1. SC, SCINC in the next two stitches. SC 48, SCINC in the next two stitches, SC 1, SCINC in next two stitches, SC 48, SCINC in the last two stitches. Join with a sl st (112)
Row 4: CH 1. SC, SCINC in the next two stitches. SC 52, SCINC in the next two stitches, SC, SCINC in next two stitches, SC 52, SCINC in the last two stitches. Join with a sl st (122)
Row 5: CH 1. (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next stitch) x 2, SC 54, (SCINC in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch) x 3, SCINC, SC 54, SCINC, SC, SCINC. Join with a sl st (130)
Rows 6 – 9: CH 1. In BLO, SC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 10: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 71 (Light Blue)
Row 11: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join with a sl st. (130)
Row 12: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (130)
Row 13: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
The outside of the Vendbar Tote Change to Colour 2 (Cream)
Row 14: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.
Row 15: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 16: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)
Row 17: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 18: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 19: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 1 (White)
Row 20: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 21: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 22: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 76 (Dark Blue)
Row 23: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Rows 24 – 27: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 28: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 71 (Light Blue)
Row 29: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 30: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 31: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 2 (Cream)
Row 32: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 33: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 34: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)
Row 35: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 36: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 37: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 1(White)
Row 38: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 39: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 40: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 76 (Medium Blue)
Row 41: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Rows 42 – 45: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 46: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 71(Light Blue)
Row 47: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 48: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 49: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 2 (Cream)
Row 50: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 51: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 52: CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end. Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)
Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)
Row 53: CH 1. SC in the first stitch. TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. (130)
Row 54: CH 1. SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
Row 55: CH 1. SC 23. CH 78. Skip 34. SC31. CH 78. Skip 34. SC 8. Join. (62 SCs and 156 chs)
Rows 56 – 58: CH 1. SC in each stitch and CH around. Join. (218)
FO and weave in ends. Enjoy your bag 😊
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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Dinosaurs to Crochet: A Crochet Book Review
If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you’ve probably caught on to the fact that I’m a bit of a crochet book lover. I have a stack of crochet-related books next to my bed that I’m working through. This week I read Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner so I thought I’d review it for you all this week. I’m also giving away a copy of this book! Keep reading to find out how to enter.
Last fall, after a dramatic trip to the library, I made it home with a copy of Christmas Ornaments to Crochet: 31 Festive and Fun-to-Make Designs for a Handmade Holiday by Megan Kreiner. (You can read that review and the tale about the dreaded library trip HERE). I came home, consumed the book and posted my review.
I was so shocked when Megan contacted me directly and thanked me for the review. It seriously made my day. She mentioned that she had a dinosaur crochet book in the works. Dinosaurs are a big deal at my house so we couldn’t wait for it to come out.
Fast forward several months and Dinosaurs to Crochet is here and my first impression was “This. is. SO. COOL!” I reached out to Megan and she kindly arranged to get me a copy of the book to review.
Megan is an animator for DreamWorks (how cool is that?) and her attention to detail in this book is insane. The dinosaurs in Dinosaurs to Crochet aren’t your normal cutesy cartoonish crochet dinosaurs. These dinosaurs are legit. They look like actual dinosaurs and each one is an absolute work of art. Don’t believe me? Take a look at this ankylosaurus!
Each pattern is accompanied with multiple pictures to guide you through the process of making your own prehistoric pal. Many of the projects include instructions for utilizing wire to make your dinosaur poseable and keep them stabilized. It is an optional step but I love that it is included
Dinosaurs to Crochet comes with 12 patterns so you’re sure to find something for the dinosaur lover in your life. Dinosaurs in this book include:
– T-Rex
– Triceratops
– Stegasaurus
– Velociraptor
– Brachiasaurus
– Pteradon
– and more!
As with most crochet books, Dinosaurs to Crochet includes written and visual instructions for the stitches used in the book, crochet and finishing techniques. I found the patterns to be clear, concise and logical. If you’re a beginner or absolutely new to amigurumi, all the steps involved may seem a little daunting upon first inspection but I think Megan has done a great job of making this book accessible to everyone.
This book generated a lot of excitement when it arrived at my house. My family has already put in requests for me to make almost every dinosaur in this book. Even my husband asked me to make him a triceratops. So if you plan on getting yourself a copy of Dinosaurs to Crochet, you may find yourself very busy making dinosaurs if you forget to put it away when company is over.
If you’re interested in buying a copy of Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner, it can be purchased from Amazon HERE. If you purchase through this link, I will get a small commission which helps keep my site running and my patterns free.
My husband and I had a bit of fun taking pictures. Thanks for reading! Follow The Loopy Lamb on Facebook and Instagram! Sign up for my Newsletter to be kept in the loop and never miss a thing.
