• Crochet Book Reviews

    The Ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook Review

    Copy of The Ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook in a flat lay with yarn and crochet hook
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    This week I checked out The Ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook: 100 Contemporary Motifs to Mix and Match by Meteoor Books and I’m going to share my review with you so you know what it’s all about.

    Thank you to Meteoor Books who provided this book to me free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

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    This book’s bright and colourful cover drew me in upon receiving my copy. It’s got so many beautiful granny squares on the cover that even if you aren’t a granny square fan (gasp!) you’ll probably still see something on the cover that intrigues you enough to look inside. I kept looking for an author but this book is an amalgamation of granny square patterns from a variety of different designers. Doing a quick flip through (or a picture walk as my son’s teacher calls it) there were names I recognized and some I didn’t. 23 different designers from around the world contributed to this book and I thought that was pretty darn cool.

    bright an colourful granny square, included in the book

    The Ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook contains patterns for 100 granny square patterns and if you think you’re going to be finding the basic solid granny square in here, you’re wrong. There are some seriously, seriously gorgeous granny squares in this book. The skill levels for the patterns range from beginner to “extra advanced”. When I read that I thought “extra advanced?! did I read that right?”. I thought I was seeing things and needed to top up my coffee but sure enough, it said extra advanced. I don’t know if it was curiousity or me just seeing “extra advanced” and mentally saying “challenge accepted” but I proceeded to thumb through the book to find these “extra advanced” level squares. I had questions: What magical crochet unicorn goddess wrote these patterns? Would my brain melt upon seeing them? You know, normal stuff people think.

    In total, there were three (3) “extra advanced” patterns that I found in the book. The first was the Twisted Lily Square and it was beautiful. Looking at the multiple stitch charts that accompany that pattern I started to get why “extra advanced” was deemed appropriate. Never to shy away from a challenge, I decided, I’m making one of these extra advanced squares. More on that later.

    granny square from The Ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook
    flowery crochet square in white, pink, red and yellow

    The majority of the patterns in the book fall into the beginner to intermediate levels and there are a lot of gorgeous patterns to choose from. All of which are accompanied by both written instructions and stitch charts (yes!). I always love when both are included. Side note, if you are struggling to read stitch charts, a book like this is so helpful and is how I finally understood stitch charts. Read the pattern one row at a time and look at the stitch chart for that row and compare it to the written word. That’s how I had my “aha!” moment and I hope it helps you too.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    blue and white crochet square

    Two things to note about this book: no gauge or specified hook information is given. There is a note at the beginning of the book about matching your hook to your yarn but since many people tend to skip that beginning section of these books, it’s easy to miss and then you’re searching all over for it. I know, because I did it. This is the type of book that you need to read the resource section. Let’s say it again for the people in the back: READ THE DAMN RESOURCE SECTION in this book! Seriously. I know you’re excited to skip to the gorgeous squares and start creating but save yourself the headache and take the 10 – 15 mintes of your life that it’ll take to fully read, understand and absorb this section. There are tips in there that you need to read, like how to make all the squares the same size (even though no gauge information is included), a section on decoding the instructions (yes – you do need this part), how to do special stitches, how to join the squares, and more. Be smarter than I was on my first flip through and attempt at the extra advanced square I did. You’ll thank me later.

    I bow down to the crochet goddesses/genuises/all-around yarn magicians that do some of the complex granny squares found in this book. My brain just doesn’t think in terms of the layers that are used to create them and I’m in awe of that incredible, incredible talent. I wish I could say that I picked up that extra advanced granny square pattern and made it in 20 minutes and it was a majestic experience. I did not. To be fair to myself, I did have kids running around and fighting with eachother when I attempted them so I wasn’t exactly in the zone. I got about 7 rows in, on the extra-advanced square I tried and then attempting to figure out what I was doing between the written word and the two separate charts while reminding my kids to take turns with eachother became far too much for me to handle. But I’m determined to get it and I’ll give it another go when I’ve finally got some quiet time to give it some more focus. I’ll probably work my way up from some of the more intermediate and advanced squares.

    granny square from the ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook

    The best thing about this book is that if you are a fan of granny squares, this book has something for every level of crocheter. If you’re a beginner, you can work your way up to the harder patterns. If you’re advanced and want a challenge, this book has got that for you. With 100 absolutely gorgeous granny squares, you’ve got enough here to keep you busy for countless hours.

    If you are interested in checking out The Ultimate Granny Square Sourcebook you can find it HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

  • How To's

    Half Double Crochet Decrease Tutorial

    collage of images illustration how to do the Half double crochet decrease
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I want to share my tutorial for how to do a Half Double Crochet Decrease, which is also known as the HDCDEC, DC2TOG or Half Double Crochet Two Together Stitch. This stitch is a variation of the Half Double Crochet Stitch and is regularly used as a way to reduce two Half Double Crochet stitches to a single Half Double Crochet Stitch. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch or HDCDEC.

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    You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet.

    Check out my How to do the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch video tutorial here:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • HDCDEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease*
    • HDC2TOG = Half Double Crochet Two Together*
    • ST(s) = Stitch(es)
    • YO = Yarn Over

    **You may see HDCDEC or HDC2TOG used to describe this same stitch in different patterns. I tend to stick to HDCDEC in my own designs but know that if you see HDC2TOG in other patterns, they tend to mean the same thing.

    How to Crochet the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch

    Step 1: Yarn over (YO) hook and insert hook into the first stitch (ST) from the row below. YO and pull up a loop. You should have three (3) loops on your hook.

    Step one of the HDC2TOG
    three loops on the crochet hook of a crochet stitch in progress

    Step 2: YO hook and insert hook into the next ST. YO and pull up a loop. You should have five (5) loops on your hook.

    Next step of how to do the half double crochet decrease stitch

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Step 3: YO hook and pull through all five (5) loops on your hook. HDCDEC/HDC2TOG completed.

    completed half double crochet decrease
    3 completed half double crochet decrease stitches in a swatch

    That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? Here are some free crochet patterns on my blog that use the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch so you can practice your new skill:

    Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Bunny Lovey Free Pattern

    crochet bunny lovey made with a free crochet pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I’m back this week with the third and final installment of My Cuddle Friends crochet lovey pattern series. This week I have a crochet bunny lovey free pattern to share with you call called My Cuddle Bunny Lovey. This lovey pattern features a cute and cuddley bunny head and arms and a beautiful lovey blanket attached to it. I’ve used three different, coordinating colours for my blanket but it’s easily customized to suit your personal needs and tastes.

    Pin this Crochet Bunny Lovey Free Pattern for Later Save

    Missed the other two My Cuddle friends crochet lovey patterns? Check them out here:

    three different crochet loveys in a flat lay

    This crochet bunny lovey free pattern makes the perfect crochet baby shower gift! Crochet loveys are always a big hit at baby showers and they always get great reactions from everyone. It always makes us feel so wonderful when you get such a nice reaction to gift you give. Even better when it’s something you made yourself and put all that love and care into.

    If you enjoy this crochet bunny lovey free pattern but you’re looking for a full-sized crochet bunny pattern instead, check out my amigurumi bunny pattern called Buttons the Bunny. He also makes a fantastic shower gift (a baby shower gift was actually the reason I created that pattern) and he even comes with a cute little sweater.

    For this project, we’ll be doing something called eye indentation. This is used to give some shape to the bunny’s face. Don’t let that intimidate you though. It’s as easy as tying a piece of yarn to each of the eye, pulling those pieces of yarn and tying a knot. I have step-by-step instructions and a diagram to help you out. If you’d like to skip this step, that’s ok, your bunny will still look great, it just won’t have the exact same shape.

    crochet bunny lovey that was made with this free crochet pattern

    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or the links in the supply list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH – Chain
    • DC – Double Crochet
    • FLO = Front Loops Only
    • FO – Finish Off
    • MC – Magic Circle
    • SC – Single Crochet
    • SCDEC – Single Crochet Decrease
    • SCINC – Single Crochet Increase
    • SL ST – Slip Stitch
    • ST – Stitch


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms corner of blanket, when attached.

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 10 sts across x 10 rows = 2” square
    • Blanket: 16 sts x 8 rows = 4”

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this crochet bunny lovey pattern HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease -> find the tutorial here.
    • The CH 2 spaces in the corners of the blanket are not included in the stitch count for each row.

    Crochet Bunny Lovey Pattern – My Cuddle Bunny Crochet Lovey

    Head:

    Row 1: Using Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) X 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) X 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Row 8: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) X5, SC 2 (36)
    Row 9: SC around (36)
    Row 10: (SC 5, SCINC) X 6 (42)
    Row 11: SC 3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) X 5, SC 3 (48) – **Place safety eyes in stitches 27 and 44 of Row 11

    To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face.  As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.


    Rows 12 – 16:
    SC around (48)
    Row 17: (SC 7, SCINC) X 6 (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row.
    Row 18: SC around (54)
    Row 19: (SC 7, SCDEC) X 6 (48)
    Row 20: SC around (48)
    Row 21: SC 3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) X 5, SC 3 (42)
    Row 22: (SC 5, SCDEC) X 6 (36)
    Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) X5, SC 2 (30)

    Now we’re going to indent the face.  Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye.  Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn).  Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like.  You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent.  Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together.  It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension.  Make sure the knot is secure.  Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.

    Buttons the Bunny Amigurumi Crochet Along diagram to show how to do facial indentation.

    Row 24: (SC 3, SCDEC) X 6 (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row.
    Row 25: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) X 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 26: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO.  Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening.  Weave in ends.

    Embroidering the Nose

    Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC.  Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape.  Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose.  FO and hide your ends inside the head.

    close up image of Buttons the Bunny's face to show placement of embroidery stitches.

    Ears (Make 2)

    Row 1: Using Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SC 2, SCINC) x 2 (8)
    Row 3: SC around (8)
    Row 4: (SCINC, SC 3) x 2 (10)
    Row 5: SC around (10)
    Row 6: (SCINC, SC 1) x 5 (15)
    Row 7: SC around (15)
    Row 8: (SC 2, SCINC) x 5 (20)
    Rows 9 – 16: SC around (20)
    Row 17: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5 (15)
    Row 18: SC around (15)
    Row 19: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 5 (10)
    Row 20: SC around (10)

    FO leaving an extra-long tail to sew onto head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright.  After I complete one pass through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation. 

    crochet bunny lovey in a flat lay with furls crochet hooks and scissors

    Arms (Make 2)

    Row 1: Using Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 17: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 18: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the bottom of the head. 

    Blanket

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Peacock, CH 4 and join last CH to the first CH with a SL ST to form a ring.  CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC 2, CH 2, *DC 3 into the ring, CH 2* repeat instructions in the **3 times. Join last ST to the top of the first ST (not the CH 3) with a SL ST (from here on out referred to only as Join). (12)
    Round 2: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 3* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP.  Join. (28)
    Round 3: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 3, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 7* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 2.  Join. (44)
    Round 4 CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 5, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 11* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 4.  Join. (60)
    Round 5: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 7, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 15* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 6.  Join. (76)
    Change to Tranquil
    Round 6: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 9, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 19* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 8.  Join. (92)
    Change to Mint
    Round 7: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 11, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 23* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 10.  Join. (108)

    security blanket toy with a bunny head made with this free crochet pattern


    Change to Peacock
    Round 8: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 13, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 27* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 12.  Join. (124)
    Change to Tranquil
    Round 9: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 15, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 31* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 14.  Join. (140)
    Change to Mint
    Round 10: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 17, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 35* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 16.  Join. (156)
    Change to Peacock
    Round 11: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 19, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 39* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 18.  Join. (172)
    Change to Tranquil
    Round 12: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 21, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 43* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 20.  Join. (188)FO and weave in ends.

    Assembly:


    Position the head with the arms already sewn to it, in the center of the blanket, facing one of the corners.  Using a length of yarn that matches the blanket, sew the blanket to the bottom of the head in a circle approximately 1.5 – 2” in diameter.  FO and weave in ends.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Along – My Pal Pascal

    Amigurumi boy doll that will be made in this free crochet along
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I love hosting CALs and since you all seem to really enjoy them as well, I’ve decided to start doing more free crochet alongs in 2021. The first free crochet along of 2021 will be starting soon to make My Pal Pascal. This is a companion doll to my last free crochet along pattern My Dolly Molly. I’m posting these details for you here so you can have your materials ready for when it starts and so you know ahead of time what to expect.

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    Pattern: My Pal Pascal (pictured)
    Start Date:
     Friday, February 5, 2021
    Duration: 3 weeks – ends Friday, February 19, 2021

    Participation is free. To participate with the group doing the crochet along, join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community on Facebook. A part of the pattern will be released each Friday for free here on my blog, theloopylamb.com. Ad-free PDF versions of the pattern in its entirety will be available for a small fee in my Etsy & Ravelry shops.

    Supplies Needed for this Free Crochet Along:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or those in the supply list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    This is open to anyone wishing to participate so if you know others that may want to crochet along with us, please feel free to invite them. They’ll just have to answer the admission questions to the group so I know they aren’t a spam bot. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I’m looking forward to doing this with you all!

  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Stylish Succulents to Crochet Review

    Copy of Stylish Succulents to Crochet in a flat lay with crochet accessories
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I have a new book to share with you all called Stylish Succelents to Crochet by Sarah Abbondio. This book was just recently released by Search Press and I was excited to take a look at it and share my thoughts with you.

    Thanks to Search Press, they have provided us with a copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky winner so keep reading to learn you you can possibly win a copy of Stylish Succulents by Sarah Abbondio for yourself.

    This book was provided to me free of charge in exchange for my honest review. All opinions are my own.

    Pin this Stylish Succulents to Crochet Review for later SAVE

    As you may, or may not know, I got my start in the crochet designing word designing crochet cacti characters. The reason I started with crochet cacti was because I cannot keep plants alive, no matter how hard I try. So I crocheted my plants. Whether it was crocheted cactus or succulents, I wanted them all. So when the opportunity came up to check out this book, I was all over it.

    Picture of a project from the book Stylish Succulents to Crochet by Sarah Abbondio

    Stylish Succulents to Crochet contains the patterns for 15 colourful cacti and other potted plants. The cover is bright and clean and really drew me in to take a better look. The pictures in the book are beautiful, although limited to only pictures of the projects. No tutorial-based photography to supplement the patterns were included with the patterns.

    Patterns Included in Stylish Succulents to Crochet:

    • Echeveria
    • Conophytum bilibum
    • Fenestraria
    • Crassula marnieriana
    • Kalanchoe orgyalis
    • Cotyledon Undulata
    • Aloe vera
    • Crassula umbellata
    • Crassula tecta
    • Varispiralis
    • Escobaria abdita
    • Haworthia limifolia
    • Sanservieria cylindrica
    • Xerosicyos danguyi

    Do you know what any of those names mean (besides Aloe Vera)? Me neither! Thank goodness there are pictures! lol. The projects look beautiful and really get me itching to break my hooks out and to start a new crochet window plant garden.

    Crochet succulent pictured in a book with a crochet hook, yarn and scissors

    The patterns use either fingering weight or DK weight cotton yarn and a 2.5mm or 3mm crochet hook. Patterns for five (5) different soil sizes are included and there is a note indicating that these are designed to fit a noted range of sized flowerpots generally available at craft shops and garden stores. No gauge information is provided for the patterns so it’s hard to make sure that your succulents will match the sizes given. So, I’d recommend holding off on buying your pots until after you have crocheted your succulent with this book to make sure you get something that fits to avoid disappointment. The only yarn information incuded in Stylish Succulents to Crochet is that the designer used balls of cotton yarn with between 174 – 185 yards per ball. Again, with no gauge information included, it’s hard to know if you’ll have enough yarn, so make sure you’ve got extra on hand. No brand or exact colour information is included.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The patterns in Stylish Succulents to Crochet are written in the UK terminology but a conversion chart is included in the beginning of the book to assist you should you not be familiar with these conversions already. The reference section at the beginning of the book walks you through the basic stitches used in the book but not much else. There were no extra tips or instructions on amigurumi assembly or finishing techniques were included. This would have been a really nice touch and made this book more accessible for crocheters new to amigurumi. As is, I’d say this book would be best suited for crocheters already familiar with amigurumi and how to assemble them, how to do the ultimate finish, etc.

    Crochet succulent plant featured in the stylish succulents to crochet book

    This book, like this author’s other title I’ve reviewed, Mini Amigurumi Animals, is all about brevity and getting to the point. It’s what I would imagine is the crochet equivalent to minimalism. You get the stitches you need to create the project but without any of the supporting tools to help you find the most success possible. No difficulty rating is provided in the book, that I could find, but I’d recommend this book only to people that have amigurumi experience and are intermediate level crocheters at a minimum. If you have experience crocheting and assembling other similar succulent patterns, even better because it will help make understanding the assembly process of these succulents easier for you.

    If you’re interested in grabbing a copy of Stylish Succulents to Crochet by Sarah Abbondio, you can check it out HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Giveaway!

    Thanks to Search Press, I have a copy of the book Stylish Succulents to Crochet by Sarah Abbondio to giveaway to one lucky winner!

    The Stylish Succulents to Crochet Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to participants in the U.S., Canada and U.K. and ends Friday, January 29th, 2021 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

  • How To's

    How to do a Double Crochet Decrease or DC2TOG

    Completed double crochet decrease stitch
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I want to share my tutorial for how to do a Double Crochet Decrease, which is also known as the DCDEC, DC2TOG or Double Crochet Two Together Stitch. This stitch is a variation of the Double Crochet Stitch and is regularly used as a way to reduce two Double Crochet stitches to a single Double Crochet Stitch but it can also be paired with other stitches to create an upside down “V”-shaped stitch in a fabric. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch.

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    You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch. Using a larger hook with a worsted weight yarn will create a more open look and would be great for bags and summer accessories.

    Check out my How to Crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch video tutorial here:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • DCDEC = Double Crochet Decrease*
    • DC2TOG = Double Crochet Two Together*
    • ST(s) = Stitch(es)
    • YO = Yarn Over

    **You may see DCDEC or DC2TOG used to describe this same stitch in different patterns. I tend to stick to DCDEC in my own designs but know that if you see DC2TOG in other patterns, they tend to mean the same thing.

    How to Crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch

    Step 1: Yarn over (YO) hook and insert hook into the first stitch (ST) from the row below. YO and pull up a loop. You should have three loops on your hook. YO and pull through two loops on your hook.

    step one of the double crochet decrease
    step two of the DCDEC stitch

    Step 2: YO hook and insert hook into the next ST. YO and pull up a loop. You should have four loops on your hook.

    YO hook and pull through two loops on your hook. You should have 3 loops on your hook.

    step 3 of the DCDEC stitch
    last step of the double crochet decrease tutorial

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Step 3: YO hook and pull through all 3 loops on your hook. DCDEC/DC2TOG completed.

    first completed DCDEC stitch
    completed double crochet decrease stitches

    That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? Here are some free crochet patterns on my blog that use the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch so you can practice your new skill:

    Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Owl Lovey Free Pattern

    Crochet lovey made with this crochet owl lovey free pattern in a flat lay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Last week, I released the first of a series of free crochet lovey blanket patterns, the My Cuddle Bear Lovey. This series of lovey toys was created for you! I’m always wanting to give you guys what you’re asking for so when many of you were requesting patterns for free crochet lovey blanket patterns, I got straight to work three of them. This weeks’ pattern is my crochet owl lovey free pattern which I’ve named My Baby Cuddle Owl Lovey. If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, don’t worry. I’ve included some resources for you below to help you find as much succses with working with this yarn as possible.

    This crochet owl lovey free pattern was designed to be super cute, fit a woodland nursery theme, be easily customized and be quick enough to whip up in case you need a last minute baby shower gift. For me, that last one is a biggie. I always think I have lots of time to whip up something great for a baby shower and then next thing I know, the shower is one a day or two away. Heck, you could whip this up the night before, or dare I say, the morning of a baby shower. If you’ve got a couple of days before the shower, pair it with my go-to baby shower blanket pattern, The Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket Pattern and you’ll be set to go with a gorgeous gift that’ll have everyone ooh-ing and aahing at your crochet prowess and they’ll never know you did them in a pinch.

    Don’t Forget to Pin this Crochet Owl Lovey Free Pattern for Later Save

    I LOVE using faux fur yarns to create amigurumi for many reasons, one of which is that you can create beautiful amigurumi projects that don’t even look crocheted. I can’t tell you how many times people have been surprised when I show them a toy I’ve made with faux fur yarn and I tell them it’s crocheted. It’s pretty awesome. The other great thing about working with faux fur yarn is that it’s incredibly forgiving. So if you’re not great at sewing on limbs and you think that seam always looks “ugly” that’s not a concern with faux fur yarn. The fur hides it all my friend! Ready to get those hooks into some faux fur? Check out my tips and tricks for using faux fur yarns in the video below (or find the write up HERE) so you can hit the ground running. If you’re looking to give faux fur yarns a try, I recommend using Fable Fur from WeCrochet (found HERE). It’s my favourite faux fur yarn as it has a thick strap on the back of the yarn which helps you feel the stitches, even if you can’t see them.

    Other Free Crochet Patterns Using Faux Fur Yarns:

    If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here:

    crochet security blanket made with this crochet owl lovey free pattern

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or the links in the supply list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:


    Finished Size:
     

    • Owl: Approximately 3.5” tall
    • Blanket Size: 12” x 12”

    Gauge: 

    • Owl: 4 sts x 5.5 rows = 2”
    • Granny Square Blanket: 16 sts x 8 rows = 4”


    Notes:

    • Gauge is not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through in the bear parts.  Yarn amounts are based on the gauge given so not matching gauge may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project. 
    • A 5.5mm crochet hook is recommended for the project but if you find you are unable to feel your stitches, you can adjust your hook until you can more easily feel your stitches to more easily know where to place your stitches.  This may however affect your gauge and therefore, the amount of yarn needed. 
    • The Owl body is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • The CH 3 at the beginning of each round in the granny square blanket counts as a DC.
    • The CH 2 spaces in the corners of the blanket are not included in the stitch count for each row.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this crochet owl lovey free pattern HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    baby crochet owl on a blue crochet security blanket

    Crochet Owl Lovey Free Pattern – My Baby Cuddle Owl Lovey

    Head:

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Rounds 4 – 8:
    SC around (18) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them
    Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more as you work.
    Round 9: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 10: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    crochet owl made with faux fur cupped in hands

    Wings (make 2):

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Pull the circle tight but do not join. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the bird, lining the wings up with the eyes.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Beak:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Cobblestone Heather and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC.  CH 3 and DC 3 into the MC. (3)
    Turn and join last ST to the top of the CH 3 with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Using the tail from the creation of the MC, sew the CH 3 to the last DC to close up the back of the beak.  Sew onto face between the eyes and weave in ends.

    There is a video tutorial available on my YouTube Channel for the beak. You can check it out here:

    crochet owl beak tutorial image 1
    crochet owl beak tutorial image 2
    crochet owl beak tutorial image 3
    crochet owl beak tutorial image 4
    crochet owl beak tutorial image 5

    Feet:


    Row 1:
    Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted yarn in Cobblestone Heather, CH 3. In 2nd CH from hook, SC.  SC in next ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 2: CH 1. SC in each ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 3:  CH 1. SCINC in each ST. Turn. (4)
    Row 4: CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3.  CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3. CH 4, SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the last SC of Row 3.  SL ST down the side of the foot, placing a SL ST in the end of each row. 
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body.  Sew the feet onto the front of the body, near the bottom pointing outwards at a slight angle.

    There is a video tutorial available on my YouTube Channel for the feet. You can check it out here:

    crochet owl foot used in this crochet owl lovey free pattern

    Blanket:

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Celestial, CH 4 and join last CH to the first CH with a SL ST to form a ring.  CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC 2, CH 2, *DC 3 into the ring, CH 2* repeat instructions in the **3 times. Join last ST to the top of the first ST (not the CH 3) with a SL ST (from here on out referred to only as Join). (12)
    Round 2: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 3* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP.  Join. (28)
    Round 3: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 3, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 7* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 2.  Join. (44)
    Round 4 CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 5, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 11* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 4.  Join. (60)
    Round 5: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 7, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 15* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 6.  Join. (76)
    Round 6: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 9, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 19* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 8.  Join. (92)
    Round 7: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 11, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 23* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 10.  Join. (108)
    Round 8: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 13, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 27* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 12.  Join. (124)

    sample made with this crochet owl lovey free pattern


    Round 9: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 15, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 31* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 14.  Join. (140)
    Change to Dove Heather
    Round 10: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 17, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 35* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 16.  Join. (156)
    Round 11: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 19, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 39* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 18.  Join. (172)
    Change to Celestial
    Round 12: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 21, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 43* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 20.  Join. (188)FO and weave in ends.

    Assembling Your Crochet Owl Lovey:

    Position the head with the arms already sewn to it in the center of the blanket, facing one of the corners.  Using a length of Celestial, sew the blanket to the bottom of the head in a circle approximately 1.5 – 2” in diameter.  FO and weave in ends.

    That’s it! I hope you enjoyed this crochet owl lovey free pattern! Ready to start another crochet lovey? Check out my Crochet Bunny Lovey Free Pattern next.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Mini Amigurumi Animals Review

    Cover of Mini Amigurumi Animals by Sarah Abbondio in a flat lay with crochet tools
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I have a new book to share with you all called Mini Amigurumi Animals: 26 Tiny Creatures to Crochet by Sarah Abbondio. This book was just recently released by Search Press and I was excited to take a look at it and share my thoughts with you.

    Thanks to Search Press, they have provided us with a copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky winner so keep reading to learn you you can possibly win a copy of Mini Amigurumi Animals by Sarah Abbondio for yourself.

    This book was provided to me free of charge in exchange for my honest review. All opinions are my own.

    Pin this Mini Amigurumi Animals Review for later SAVE

    Mini Amigurumi Animals has a lovely hard cover and a fun and colourful image on the front. As the title of the book suggests, there are 26 mini amigurumi project patterns contained in the book. The patterns are:

    • Rabbit
    • Dog
    • Hedgehog
    • Polar Bear
    • Sloth
    • Camel
    • Cat
    • Pig
    • Horse
    • Cow
    • Koala
    • Monkey
    • Leopard
    • Giraffe
    • Elk
    • Raccoon
    • Badger
    • Bear
    • Lion
    • Rhinoceros
    • Panda
    • Elephant
    • Fox
    • Mole
    • Squirrel
    • Mouse
    mini amigurumi animals lined up

    The patterns in Mini Amigurumi Animals are written in the UK terminology but a conversion chart is included in the beginning of the book to assist you should you not be familiar with these conversions already. The reference section at the beginning of the book walks you through the basic stitches used in the book but not much else. There were no extra tips or instructions on amigurumi assembly or finishing techniques were included. This would have been a really nice touch and made this book more accessible for crocheters new to amigurumi. As is, I’d say this book would be best suited for crocheters already familiar with amigurumi and how to assemble them, embroider noses etc.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    three crochet animals stacked in a pyramid

    The patterns use either fingering weight or DK weight cotton yarn and a 2.5mm crochet hook. Each animal, when made with the recommended yarn size, is approximately 2 inches or 6 centimeters tall. There was a note that since the patterns use a small amount of yarn, that these patterns are good for “odds and ends” yarns. I thought that was great but no yardage or actual yarn brand information is included anywhere in the book. Without that, I may not feel really confident in whether I had enough yarn on hand using scraps or odds and ends. The only yan information incuded is that the designer used balls of cotton yarn with between 174 – 185 yards per ball so I guess if you have at least 185 yards in your desired colours, you’d be good to go.

    The toys in Mini Amigurumi Animals are cute and probably some of the tidiest looking mini amigurumi projects that I’ve ever seen. If mini amigurumi projects aren’t your thing, you can always substitute a larger yarn and a larger hook size to make them bigger.

    mini amigurumi moose

    Each pattern is accompanied by at least one clear photo of the project but each pattern is brief and to the point with no additional support photos to guide you through the process. The patterns are clear and easy to understand.

    If you’re looking for a cute mini amigurumi resource then you may be interested in checking out this book as it is chock full of cute mini creatures. If you’re you’re an experienced amigurumi maker that likes a book that just cuts to the chase and doesn’t need all the added supports, then this may be a book you’ll want to add to your crochet library.

    If you’re interested in grabbing a copy of Mini Amigurumi Animals by Sarah Abbondio, you can check it out HERE.

    4 tiny crochet animals from the book being reviewed

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Giveaway!

    Thanks to Search Press, I have a copy of the book Mini Amigurumi Animals by Sarah Abbondio to giveaway to one lucky winner!

    The Mini Amigurumi Animals Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to participants in the U.S., Canada and U.K. and ends Friday, January 22nd, 2021 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

  • How To's

    How to Do The Russian Join Step-by-Step Tutorial

    a close up image of a russian join completed with this tutorial
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Getting near the end of your yarn and all you can think about is how you’re going to have to weave in yet ANOTHER end? Friend, I’m right there with you. Sometimes, particularly when I’m working on a larger project, I will do whatever it takes to avoid having any unnecessary ends to weave in. Enter: the Russian Join. Today I’m going to teach you how to do the Russian Join to help you join your ends together so you have less ends to weave in to your project.

    Don’t Forget to Pin this Russian Join Tutorial for Later Save


    The Russian Join is a great way to join yarns together and avoid extra ends to weave in. It can be used for adding a new skein or changing colours. This can be done for both knitting and crocheting and works best with two yarns of the same weight. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to do it:

    To do the Russian Join, you’ll need:

    • two different yarns (the new yarn you want to attach to your project and the working yarn attached to your project)
    • a tapestry or darning needle

    Watch my video tutorial on how to do the Russian Join here:

    1. Thread a tapestry needle with the new yarn that you want to attach and leave a tail a few inches long.
    tapestry threaded onto a strand of yarn, next to a pair of scissors

    2. Turn the needle back towards the strand of yarn and insert it into the plies. Thread the needle through the plies for about 2 – 3 inches (adjust this to be longer for slippery yarns). Keep the yarn tail inside the plies of the yarn. Make sure you keep a small loop near the top – the smaller the better. I like to put a stitch marker here to help make sure I don’t accidentally lose my loop.

    Step 1 of how to do the russian join
    tapestry needle being fed through a strand of yarn.

    3. Pull the needle all the way through and remove the needle from the thread. It will look bunched up but when you smoothe it out, it will cover the rest of/most of the tail. If your loop is too big, tug on the tail to tighten it up. Trim any excess.

    hands manipulating yarn into the russian join
    yarn bunched up on itself, holding a stitch marker

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    scissors cutting the end of yarn from the first half of the russian join.

    4. Take your working yarn (ensuring you have a generous tail) and thread it onto the needle, leaving a tail of a few inches. Insert the needle through the small loop at the top of the new yarn that you worked through and insert it back into itself. You can remove your stitch marker now (if you used one).

    tapestry needle being fed through the yarn

    final step of the tutorial, hands holding yarn

    5. Pull the needle all the way through and remove the needle from the thread. It will look bunched up but when you smoothe it out, it will cover the rest of the tail. If your loop is too big, tug on the tail to tighten it up. Trim any excess.

    completed russian join

    And there you have it. A completed Russian Join.

    A word of caution: Although I’ve used this technique successfully many times with a variety of yarns I will say that it doesn’t work with all yarn types. There are some yarns that may look noticably thicker so you’ll have to use your discretion on whether this technique will work for your project.
    For the majority of the yarns I have used this with in the past, it hasn’t been very noticeable and allows me to keep working on my project after only a momentary pause to work the join. I would not recommend using this technique with roving yarns or yarns have have really fine strands to make up a thicker ply like, Caron X Pantone Yarns or as the results I had were messy and too noticeable in my work.

    I hope you enjoyed learning how to do the Russian Join. If you have any questions or comments, I’d love to hear from you. Do you have another favourite way to join your yarn or a way you’d like me to demonstrate here? Let me know your thoughts below.

    While you’re here, check out these tutorials and learn something new:

  • Crochet Patterns

    Teddy Bear Lovey Free Crochet Pattern

    Teddy Bear Lovey made with this free crochet pattern in a flat lay with crochet accessories
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I’ve been getting requests from many of you for some lovey toy patterns and I’m happy to say that I have a teddy bear lovey free crochet pattern to share with you all today. My Cuddle Bear Lovey comes with two different blanket types that you can choose from for your toy: a striped blanket made with worsted weight yarn and another blanket made entirely with faux fur yarn. The faux fur yarn version is so soft and lushious that I kind of want one for me. If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, I’ll include some resources here as well to help you be successful when working with faux fur yarns.

    Don’t Forget to Pin this Teddy Bear Lovey Free Crochet Pattern for Later Save

    I have two new free crochet lovey patterns available now to complete the My Cuddle Friend series:

    Using faux fur yarns to make amigurumi can be intimidating for some people. I get it. I used to be really nervous about trying it but once I actually gave it a try I fell head over heels for working with it. If this is your first time using faux fur yarns, this teddy bear lovey free crochet pattern is a great pattern to finally give it a try. The bear is small and quick to make so it’s not a huge committment in terms of time or resources. Faux fur yarn is incredibly forgiving so if you don’t have the tidiest seaming when putting your teddy bear lovey, no one can tell. The fur hides it all and still looks great! Check out my tips and tricks for using faux fur yarns in the video below (or find the write up HERE) so you can hit the ground running. If you’re looking to give faux fur yarns a try, I recommend using Fable Fur from WeCrochet (found HERE). It’s my favourite faux fur yarn as it has a thick strap on the back of the yarn which helps you feel the stitches, even if you can’t see them.

    Other Free Crochet Patterns Using Faux Fur Yarns:

    If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here:

    Polar bear baby lovey in a flat lay with a plant, crochet hook and scissor

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies for Bear with Fur Blanket:

    two amigurumi bears turned into lovey toys in a flat lay next to eachother.

    Supplies for Bear with Granny Square Blanket:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:


    Finished Size:
     

    • Bear Head: Approximately 3.5” tall
    • Blanket Size (Both Versions): 12” x 12”

    Gauge: 

    • Bear Head & Arms: 4 sts x 5.5 rows = 2”
    • Fur Blanket: 2 sts x 2 rows = 2”
    • Granny Square Blanket: 16 sts x 8 rows = 4”


    Notes:

    • Gauge is not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through in the bear parts.  Yarn amounts are based on the gauge given so not matching gauge may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project. 
    • A 5.5mm and 8.0mm crochet hooks are recommended for the faux fur portions of the project but if you find you are unable to feel your stitches with the fur, you can adjust your hook until you can more easily feel your stitches to know where to place your stitches.  This may however affect your gauge and therefore, the amount of yarn needed. 
    • The Bear head, ears, nose and arms are worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • The CH 3 at the beginning of each round in the granny square blanket counts as a DC.
    • The CH 2 spaces in the corners of the blanket are not included in the stitch count for each row.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Teddy Bear Lovey Free Crochet Pattern

    close up image of an amigurumi bear head made with faux fur yarn

    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Rounds 4 – 8:
    SC around (18) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them
    Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more as you work.
    Round 9: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 10: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    Nose

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Rounds 2 – 3: SC around (6)
    Join last ST for the first ST with a SL ST. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto the face of the bear.  Put safety nose through the center of the MC of the nose, add a bit of stuffing and sew onto the face just below the eyes. 

    Teddy Bear Lovey with a fur blanket in a flat lay

    Ears (Make 2):

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Join the last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head.  Sew each ear onto the head.

    Arms (Make Two)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Rounds 2 – 7: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body.  Do NOT stuff.  Sew onto either side of the bottom, center-point of the head.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Fur Blanket

    Row 1: Using Fable Fur and 8.0mm hook, CH 24.  SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (23)
    Rows 2 – 24: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. (23)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Teddy Bear Lovey in a flay lay with a crochet hook and scissors

    Striped Blanket

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Cornflower, CH 4 and join last CH to the first CH with a SL ST to form a ring.  CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC 2, CH 2, *DC 3 into the ring, CH 2* repeat instructions in the **3 times. Join last ST to the top of the first ST (not the CH 3) with a SL ST (from here on out referred to only as Join). (12)
    Round 2: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 3* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP.  Join. (28)
    Round 3: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 3, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 7* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 2.  Join. (44)
    Round 4 CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 5, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 11* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 4.  Join. (60)
    Change to White
    Round 5: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 7, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 15* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 6.  Join. (76)
    Round 6: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 9, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 19* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 8.  Join. (92)

    polar bear lovey cupped in a woman's hands


    Change to Cornflower
    Round 7: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 11, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 23* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 10.  Join. (108)
    Round 8: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 13, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 27* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 12.  Join. (124)
    Change to White
    Round 9: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 15, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 31* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 14.  Join. (140)
    Round 10: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 17, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 35* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 16.  Join. (156)
    Change to Cornflower
    Round 11: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 19, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 39* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 18.  Join. (172)Round 12: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 21, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 43* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 20.  Join. (188)FO and weave in ends.

    Assembly:

    Position the head with the arms already sewn to it in the center of the blanket, facing one of the corners.  Using a length of yarn that matches the blanket you chose to make, sew the blanket to the bottom of the head in a circle approximately 1.5 – 2” in diameter.  FO and weave in ends.

    That’s it! I hope you enjoyed this teddy bear lovey free crochet pattern! I’d love to see your finished makes so if you’re sharing it on Instagram, don’t forget to tag me or use the hashtag #theloopylamb.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the teddy bear lovey created with this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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