• Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part 3

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free bunny crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Please note that this is Part Three of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Two we will be crocheting Buttons’ body/torso and arms.

    • Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
    • Part Two which gives instructions to make the Torso and Arms can be found HERE.
    • The next Live Wednesdays will be at 7PM EST on January 29th in The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.


    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Abbreviations:

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Buttons the Bunny Pattern:

    Legs (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 20: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 21: (SC2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the leg hole closed and sew onto the bottom of the body on either side of the center.

    Buttons the Crochet Bunny Wearing a Sweater

    Tail


    Row 1: Using White yarn and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 9: SC around (30) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 10: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Row 11: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 12: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 13: SCDEC x 6 (6)

    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto the bum of the bunny.  Place the tail in a place where the tail will assist the bunny in sitting upright. I like to sew my tail on after the sweater has been completed and put on Buttons so I can ensure that my placement doesn’t interfere with the sweater in anyway.

    Back View os Buttons the Bunny - Free Easter Crochet Project

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Sweater

    Using 4.0mm hook and Burgundy, CH 21
    Row 1: HDC in the 3rd CH from the hook (counts as first HDC). HDC, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 3, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 3, (HDC, CH 2, HDC), HDC 2. (23 HDCs and 4 CH spaces)
    Row 2: CH 2, Turn.  HDC 3, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 7, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 3. (39 HDCs and 4 CH spaces)

    Burgundy Sweater made for Crochet Easter Bunny


    Row 3: CH 2 and turn.  HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH, HDC 9, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH space, HDC 11 (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH space, HDC 9 (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH space, HDC 5 (55 HDC, 4 CH spaces)
    Row 4: CH 2 and turn.  HDC 7, HDC 1 in CH space. SKIP 13 HDC and HDC in the next CH space. HDC 15, HDC 1 in the CH SP. SKIP 13, HDC in the next CH space. HDC 7. (33)
    Rows 5 – 8: CH 2 and turn. HDC across.  FO. (33)
    With the right side facing you, attach the yarn with a SL ST to any stitch on the bottom row of the back of the sweater. CH 1 and SC in the same stitch.  SC around the edge of the sweater (not the sleeves), putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and 3 SCs in each corner. Join your last st to your first stitch with a sl st.  FO and weave in ends.

    Sleeves

    Row 1: Turn the sweater inside out so the wrong side of the sweater is facing you.  Attach your yarn to the stitch closest to the underarm.  CH 2 and HDC in the same stitch.  HDC 16.  Join your first stitch to your last stitch with a sl st.  (16)
    Rows 2 – 3: CH 2 and turn.  HDC around.  Join to first stitch with a sl st. (16)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC around.  Join to first stitch with a sl st. (16).
    FO and weave in ends. 
    Repeat Rows 1 to 4 on second sleeve.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway. I hope you have enjoyed making your very own Buttons the Bunny. Thanks for crocheting along with us!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part Two

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free bunny crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Please note that this is Part Two of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Three we will be crocheting Buttons’ Legs, Tail and Sweater.

    • Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
    • Part Three which gives instructions to make the Legs, Tail and Sweater can be found HERE.
    • The next Live Wednesdays will be at 7PM EST on January 22nd and 29th in The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.

    Clover Squad Box available to win by Participants of the Bunny Crochet Along

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Pattern:

    Body

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Row 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Row 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Row 8: SC3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rows 9 – 18: SC around (48)
    Row 19: SC3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3(42)
    Row 20: SC around (42) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 21: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Row 22: SC around (36)
    Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30)
    Row 24: SC around (30)
    Row 25: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Row 26: SC around (24)
    Row 27: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 28: SC around (18)

    FO leaving a long tail to sew the body onto the head.  Sew body onto head.  Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head.  Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.

    Brown Bunny made with this Free Bunny Crochet Pattern

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Arms (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 18: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 19: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the body.  Mine are placed approximately 4 rows down from the top of the body.

    Close up of Crochet Bunny Arm

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part One

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Welcome to the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along! Buttons the Bunny is a sweet little amigurumi bunny that my daughter named Buttons. Ironically, Buttons doesn’t have any actual buttons in his pattern but since this was the first thing she hasn’t named Booba or Mister Happy Face, I didn’t have the heart to change his name.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress. There’s also a giveaway sponsored by Clover USA for participants of the CAL so keep reading to learn more.

    The free crochet pattern for Buttons the Bunny has been split into three parts to make creating him a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Live Wednesdays

    For those of you that will be tuning in to the live discussions on Wednesdays during the CAL they will be happening at 7:30PM EST on January 15th, 22nd and 29th.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously offered to sponsor a giveaway for the participants of the CAL! One lucky participant will win a Clover Squad Box full of Clover tools and goodies!

    During the crochet along, share your pictures of your progress and finished bunny, tagging me (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB), using #theloopylambCAL. Each photo shared (must be different pictures) will be an entry into the giveaway. Don’t forget to tag us so we can make sure we see them. The giveaway is open to U.S. residents only. Must be 18 years or older to win. This giveaway is not affiliated with Facebook in any way. Giveaway will close Friday February 7th at midnight EST. A winner will be announced Monday, February 10th.

    Clover Squad box of goodies up for grabs for crochet along participants.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Side view of Buttons the Bunny made with the free crochet along pattern.

    Abbreviations:

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Pattern:

    Head:

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) X 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC1, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC2, SCINC) X 5, SC1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) X 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Row 8: SC2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) X5, SC2 (36)
    Row 9: SC around (36)
    Row 10: (SC5, SCINC) X 6 (42)
    Row 11: SC3, SCINC (SC6, SCINC) X 5, SC3 (48) – **Place safety eyes in stitches 27 and 44 of Row 11

    To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face.  As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.

    Rows 12 – 16: SC around (48)
    Row 17: (SC7, SCINC) X 6 (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row.
    Row 18: SC around (54)
    Row 19: (SC7, SCDEC) X 6 (48)
    Row 20: SC around (48)
    Row 21: SC3, SCDEC (SC6, SCDEC) X 5, SC3 (42)
    Row 22: (SC5, SCDEC) X 6 (36)
    Row 23: SC2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) X5, SC2 (30)

    Now we’re going to indent the face.  Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye.  Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn).  Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like.  You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent.  Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together.  It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension.  Make sure the knot is secure.  Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.

    Buttons the Bunny Amigurumi Crochet Along diagram to show how to do facial indentation.



    Row 24:
    (SC3, SCDEC) X 6 (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row.
    Row 25: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC2, SCDEC) X 5, SC1 (18)
    Row 26: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO and weave in ends.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Embroidering the Nose

    Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC.  Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape.  Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose.  FO and hide your ends inside the head.

    close up image of Buttons the Bunny's face to show placement of embroidery stitches.



    Ears (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SC2, SCINC) x 2 (8)
    Row 3: SC around (8)
    Row 4: (SCINC, SC3) x 2 (10)
    Row 5: SC around (10)
    Row 6: (SCINC, SC1) x 5 (15)
    Row 7: SC around (15)
    Row 8: (SC2, SCINC) x 5 (20)
    Rows 9 – 16: SC around (20)
    Row 17: (SC2, SCDEC) x 5 (15)
    Row 18: SC around (15)
    Row 19: (SC1, SCDEC) x 5 (10)
    Row 20: SC around (10)

    FO leaving an extra-long tail to sew onto head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright.  After I complete one pass through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation.  You can add pipe cleaners to the ears if you’d prefer to help them stand up but I do not recommend giving it to children if they are used.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished bunnies!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Penny the Bunny Cactus Crochet Pattern

    Close up of Penny the Bunny Cactus, a crochet cactus with bunny ears

    This post may contain affiliate links.
    This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own.

    If you’ve been following me for a while, you know that I love to give my crochet cactus projects some personality. When brainstorming my list of projects, a bunny cactus was high on my list. I had a lot of ideas floating around in my head and I decided that I wanted something with a clean and simple but adorable look. Soon after, Penny the Bunny Cactus was born.

    Originally, Penny was going to be named Betsy but it just didn’t feel like the best fit for her. So thank you to everyone on Facebook and Instragram that suggested names for Penny. There were a lot of great suggestions which made it very difficult to choose. Eventually I narrowed it down to two and it was a coin toss after that.

    You can make your very own by following the free crochet pattern for Penny the Bunny Cactus below.

    Get an ad-free PDF version  of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Etsy and HERE on Ravelry to help me keep my patterns free.

    Instagram: @theloopylamb                    Hashtag: #theloopylamb

    Level:

    • Intermediate

    Materials:

    Terminology:

    • US terminology

    Stitches Used and Abbreviations:

    • MC:    magic circle
    • CH: chain
    • SC: single crochet
    • SCINC: single crochet increase
    • SCDEC: single crochet descrease
    • HDC: half double crochet
    • HDCINC: half double crochet increase
    • SLST: slip stitch
    • BLO: back loop only
    • ST(s): stitch (es)
    • FO: finish off

    Measurement: 

    • Approximately 5.5” tall from bottom of soil to top of head once assembled (ears not included in measurement)

    Important Notes:

    • No matter your skill level, I always suggest that you read through the pattern from beginning to end before beginning your work just to be sure you don’t have any questions that might cause frustration in the midst of your project.
    • Instructions within the brackets () are to be repeated the number of times specified next to the brackets.
    Close up image of Penny The Bunny Cactus in a clay pot made with this free crochet cactus pattern.

    Penny the Bunny Cactus – Free Crochet Cactus Pattern


    SOIL


    Worked in continuous rounds.

    Row  1:  Using  brown  yarn,  make  a  MC  and  SC  6  into  the  MC (6)
    Row  2:  (SCINC)  x  6  (12)
    Row  3:  (SCINC,  SC  1) x 6  (18)
    Row  4:  SC,  SCINC,  (SC  2,  SCINC) x  5,  SC  1  (24)
    Row  5:  (SCINC,  SC  3) x  6  (30)
    Row  6:  SC  2,  SCINC  (SC  4,  SCINC) x  5,  SC  2  (36)
    Rows  7  –  16:  SC  around  (36)
    Row  17:  SC  2,  SCDEC,  (SC  4,  SCDEC) x  5,  SC  2  (30)
    Row  18:  (SCDEC,  SC  3)  x  6  (24)
    Row  19:  SC,  SCDEC,  (SC  2,  SCDEC) x  5,  SC  1  (18)
    Row  20:  (SCDEC,  SC)  x  6  (12)
    Row  21:  (SCDEC)  x  6  (6)
    FO  and  weave  in  ends.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Cactus Body

    Using green and leaving a long tail, CH20.

    Row 1: SC in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across.  CH1 and turn. (19)
    Row 2: SC in the first stitch.  SC in the back loop of the next 17 stitches.  SC under both loops of the last stitch (19)
    Repeat row 2 until the piece measures 16 cm.
    FO, leaving a long tail.  Work a running stitch along the long side of the cactus, working into the row ends.  Pull the yarn tight to close the cactus (like a drawstring).  Without fastening off, seam the two short sides together by putting the needle through the bottom loop of both stitches to recreate the ribbing effect for the seam. Insert the safety eyes with two ridges between them. Stuff firmly.  Work a running stitch along the open edge and pull tightly to close the cactus completely.  Secure and weave in your ends.  Sew onto soil.

    Ears (make 2 in pink (inner ear) and 2 in white (outer ear))

    CH 11
    Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SC 6.  HDC 2, HDC 5 in the last CH.  Working on the other side of the chain, HDC 2, SC 7.  CH 1 and turn.(23)
    Row 2:
    SC 7, HDC 2, HDCINC x 5, HDC 2, SC 7.(28)  FO.

    Ear Assembly:

    To assemble the ears, we are going to crochet through the stitches of both ear pieces (one pink and one white).  Take a pink ear and a white ear and put the two wrong sides together.   Attach the white yarn in the first stitches of both the pink and white pieces.  SC in the first stitch of both pieces.  SC 6, HDC 2, (HDCINC) x 10, HDC 2, SC 7.  FO with long tail to secure the ear to the head.  Repeat with remaining ear pieces to create the second ear.

    Secure each ear to the head of the cactus approximately an inch to an inch and a half apart.

    Bow


    Row 1:
    Using red yarn, CH 11.  DC 2 in the 3rd CH from the hook.  DC, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC, DC 5 in the last CH.  Working on the other side of the chain, DC, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC, DC 2 in the last CH.  Join with a SL ST. (23)
    Row 2:  CH 1.  SC 5, SL ST, SC 11, SL ST, SC 5. Join with a SL ST to the first stitch.  (23)
    FO and weave in ends.  Using a long piece of red yarn approximately 15” long, secure the end to the back, center point of the bow and wrap the yarn around the center of the box a few times.  When done wrapping, secure the yarn in the back and use the remaining length of yarn to sew the bow onto the head.


    Using the pink embroidery thread, embroider a nose.  Using the black yarn, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet cactus!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Sign up for my newsletter here.

    Want to try another cactus character? Try one of these:
    Randy the Reindeer Cactus
    Saint Prickolaus Cactus Cuddler

    Pinterest image of crochet cactus being held in hands with a word overlay

    This post may contain affiliate links.
    This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own.
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll with Clothes: My Dolly Molly – Part 3

    Crochet doll with clothes next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3

    My Dolly Molly Crochet doll with some furls crochet hooks and yarn.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back view of the crochet doll with clothes made with this free crochet pattern

    Pattern

    Hair

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45)
    Round 9: SC around (45)
    Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains.  SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail.  Weave in ends.

    NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH.  To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand.  For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – Part 2

    Crochet doll  next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a crochet doll free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    • Part One: Body
    • Part Two: Arms, Embroidery and Dress
    • Part Three: Hair

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    My Dolly Molly with a furls crochet hook and some yarn, made with this crochet doll free pattern.

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Adding Eyelashes

    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Close up of doll's face with arrows indicating where to place needle when embroidering eyelashes.
    completed eyelashes on crochet doll


    Nose

    Take a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches.  Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly.  FO and weave in end.

    Close up of the crochet doll nose on My Dolly Molly

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.



    Arms (make two)

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go.
    Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9)
    Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11)
    Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.

    Molly the Dolly an her dress made with this crochet doll free pattern



    Dress

    Using Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37
    Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST and CH across (32)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36)
    Row 7: CH 6 and turn.  SC in each ST across (36)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40)
    Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. (40)

    Amigurumi doll dress for this crochet doll free pattern


    Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40)
    Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60)
    Row 16: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  (80)
    Row 17: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (100)
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (120)
    FO and weave in ends.  The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress.  Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7.  Put dress on doll and fasten.

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Crochet doll made with this amigurumi doll pattern with a text overlay indicating this is a free crochet pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my amigurumi doll pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This amigurumi doll pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part One of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The free crochet doll pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Back of the amigurumi doll pattern showing the fastening of the doll's dress.

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Amigurumi Doll Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Leg 1

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.

    Place a stitch marker into the 3rd ST of the last round of the leg.  FO but do not weave in your end.

    Leg 2

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.


    Do NOT FO.  We will continue onto the body now.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Picture of the completed amigurumi doll body without it's hair and dress.

    Body

    Round 1: Working into the top of the 2nd leg, SC 8, CH 1, SC into the 3rd ST of the last round of the first leg.  SC 11 around the first leg, CH 1 and SC in the last 4 STs of the 2nd leg. (26)
    Pull the end from finishing off the first leg through the hole between the two legs and use it to sew up the hole.
    Round 2:  SC in each ST around (26)
    Round 3: SC 7, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 4 (29)
    Round 4: SC around (29)
    Round 5: SC 7, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 15 (32)
    Rounds 6 – 9: SC around (32)
    Round 10: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 2 (28)
    Round 11: SC around (28)
    Round 12: SC 11, SCDEC, SC 15 (27)
    Round 13: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 7 (25) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 14: SC around (25)
    Round 15: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 6 (23)
    Round 16: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 7 (21)

    Round 17: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 5 (19)
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 4 (17)
    Round 19: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 3 (15)
    Round 20: SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC, SC 2 (12)
    Round 21: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Round 23: SC, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 24: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 25: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 26: SC around (36)
    Round 27: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Rounds 28 – 29: SC around (42)
    Round 30: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 31 – 32: SC around (48)
    Round 33: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) – Place safety eyes in Round 33 with 7 sts in between them
    Rounds 34 – 35: SC around (42)
    Round 36: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 37:  SC around (36)
    Round 38: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5,  SC 2 (30)
    Round 39: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 40: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Round 41: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 42: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and weave in ends. 

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • How To's

    How to Crochet a Magic Circle Tutorial

    Step by step images showing how to crochet a magic circle with a column of text to the left
    This post may contain affiliate links

    This step-by-step tutorial will help you learn how to crochet a magic circle – often referred to as a magic ring or adjustable circle/ring. The magic circle/magic ring is a really handy technique to know if you’re a fan of amigurumi projects. The magic circle is an alternative to creating a ring with a chain 4 which would typically leave an open hole in your project. When you use a magic circle to being your project it creates a tightly closed ring when you’re crocheting in the round. So if you’re using it for amigurumi, this means no hole for the stuffing to show through and a more professional-looking finish.

    Pin this tutorial so you can refer back to it later. Save

    This technique is relatively easy to do but with some practice, it’ll be as easy as creating a starting chain.

    For this tutorial, I’m using a 5.5 mm Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook and Bernat Premium (size 4) yarn in Sky Blue.

    Check out the video version of this tutorial here:

    How to Crochet the Magic Circle

    Using your non-dominant hand, hold the end of the yarn between your thumb and pointer finger. Wrap the working yarn around your fingers (from front to back) once.

    Hands holding a piece of blue yarn
    Yarn being wrapped around fingers

    Cross the working yarn over top of the yarn on the inside of your hand and lay the working yarn across the top of your fingers. I like to use my pinky finger to hold it down and keep it secure fo the next part.

    Yarn being crossed over itself while a person demonstrates how to crochet a magic circle
    Yarn wrapped around a hand twice showing how to crochet a magic circle

    Insert your crochet hook underneath the first strand of yarn and grab the second strand of yarn.

    Crochet hook grabbing second strand of yarn wrapped around person's fingers

    Pull the second strand of yarn under the first strand of yarn.

    second strand of yarn being pulled under first strand of yarn by crochet hook

    Twist the yarn to create a loop. Yarn over the hook using the working yarn and pull through the loop to create a chain.

    Yarn twisted to create a loop to crochet a magic circle
    Yarn over crochet hook to create a chain
    Chain completed for how to make a magic circle

    Remove your fingers from the loop. Your magic circle is now completed!

    completed magic circle

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Working Your First Row

    To work into the magic circle, work your desired stitches into the magic cirlce, ensuring that both the ring and yarn tail are crocheted over. In my example here, I’m crocheting six single crochet stitches (Get my tutorial on how to do the single crochet stitch HERE).

    working into a magic circle

    When you’ve finished crocheting your first round of stitches, gently pull the yarn tail until your ring closes and you have a tightly closed ring. like in the image below.

    Continue working your second round of stitches as normal.

    Now that you know how to crochet a magic circle, let’s pratice using it! Some of my free crochet patterns that utilize the magic circle technique are:
    Clawdia Cat, Carter the Carrot, Penny the Bunny Cactus, Buttons the Bunny CAL (part one, part two and part three) and Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf.

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird

    Two chubby crochet birds, one wearing a hat and one with a flower on her head.
    This page may contain affiliate links.

    This free crochet bird pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    This week I’d love to introduce you to my new free crochet bird pattern to make my little friends Bob and Betty Bird. This is a quick and easy amigurumi bird pattern that makes two chubby little birds who are ready for spring. They’re all dressed up to celebrate the spring season and make new friends after a long winter away.

    Bob and Betty are a pattern that was created with the help of my two young children. I wanted to make a crochet bird pattern for spring and started on a prototype. Once my children saw it, they both wanted one of their own, in their favourite colours. I was happy to oblige and began making them their own birds.

    It felt like the birds needed a little something more though so I asked my kids: “what do you think this little crochet bird needs to make them cuter?” They came up with some fun ideas but ultimately, my daugther decided on a pink flower and eyelashes for her bird and my son wanted a blue hat. My kids are always a big inspiration for me but it was especially fun creating this for them to be exactly what they wanted it to be.

    Pin it for later Save

    My husband laid claim to the original prototype and wanted nothing added to his. So thanks to my kids, instead of one free crochet bird pattern to share with you today, we have two. We hope you enjoy them. I know my kids certainly do!

    For this project I used some wonderful tools from Clover USA, specifically, a Clover Amour crochet hook, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needles and Quick Lock Stitch Markers.

    Two amigurumi birds standing in front of clover usa products used in the free crochet pattern

    A good quality, comfortable crochet hook and locking stitch markers are vital tools to creating amigurumi. When creating an amigurumi project, the stitches tend to be tighter than other projects in order to prevent the stuffing from showing. This can lead to hand pain if you have an uncomfortable crochet hook. I found this hook to be incredibly comfortable and smoothe to work with.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    I exclusively use locking stitch markers. The reason being is that I don’t trust stitch markers that don’t lock. I’ve had other stitch markers that didn’t lock fall out of my work, losing my place too many times to count. And that, is just too frustrating to deal with. If you really enjoy making amirugumi, then I highly recommend locking stitch markers become your new best friend. The Quick Lock Stitch Markers from Clover were fab. They come in a great little box that latches closed so it helps me keep them all in the same place (besides the ones that fall in my couch lol). Not only did the little kit of stitch markers come with a few different sizes, they look like tiny little sheep. They are just C.U.T.E.!

    Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird

    Back view of the birds made with this free crochet bird pattern
    Check out those cute little tails!



    Check out the free tutorial for this pattern on YouTube!



    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    The yarn and some of the tools used in this free crochet bird pattern.

    Supplies to make Betty Bird (Purple Bird):

    Supplies to make Bob Bird (Blue Bird):

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FLO = Front Loops Only.
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 3” tall by 4.5” wide from wing tip to wing tip

    Gauge:

    • 10.5 sts x 11.5 rows = 2 inches

    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The Body, Wing, Beak and Tail pattern is the same for both birds.  The only difference is the colour you use.  Where “main colour” is indicated, use Fairy Tale (purple) for Betty Bird (she’s wearing a flower) and Denim (blue) for the Bob Bird (he’s wearing a hat).

    Amigurumi birds standing on top of colourful yarn

    Body:

    Round 1: Using your main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 5, SCINC, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 9 – 17: SC around (48) – Place safety eyes in Round 15 with 7 sts between them.
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42)
    Round 19: SC around (42)
    Round 20: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 21: SC 2, (SCDEC, SC 4) x 5, SCDEC, SC 2 (30)
    Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing with each round.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 23: SC 1, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC 1 (18)
    Round 24: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening.  Weave in ends.

    ** For Betty Bird Only**
    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Purple crochet bird made with this free crochet bird pattern

    Beak

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12)
    Do NOT stuff.  After completing Row 4, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto face. Lining the beak up with the bottom of the eyes, sew onto the face, sewing through both layers of the beak at once.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Wings (make 2)

    Round 1: Using main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6).
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12)

    After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.  Do NOT stuff.  Sew wings onto either side of the body, lining the top edge of the wing up with the bottom of the eyes and sewing through both layers of the wings at the same time.

    Blue Amigurumi Bird made with this free crochet bird pattern

    Feet (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12)
    After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew either side of the body. Do NOT stuff.  Sew the feet onto the bottom of your bird along Round 5 with 3 stitches in between them, sewing through both layers of the feet at the same time.

    Tail

    Round 1: Using main colour, CH 10.  SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SC 7, SC 4 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 7, SCINC in the last CH.  Do not join. (22)
    Round 2: SC in each st around (22)
    Round 3: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 10 (20)
    Round 4: SC around (20)
    Round 5: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18)
    Round 6: SC around (18)

    After completing Round 6, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the bottom part of the back of your bird.  Do NOT stuff.  Sewing through both layers of the tail, sew the tail onto the bottom of your bird along Round 4 of the body so the tail points out towards the center of the back of the body.

    Flower for Betty Bird

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  Join to first st with a SL ST. FO.
    Round 2:
    Change to Rouge, attaching it to the first ST of the previous round.CH 1.(HDC, DC, HDC) in the first st. *(SL ST, HDC, DC, HDC) in the next st.* Repeat instructions in ** 4 more times.  Join last st to first st with a SL ST. 

    FO and weave in ends.  Sew to the head of the bird.

    Two amigurumi birds being held i someone's hands.

    Hat for Bob Bird

    Round 1: Using Celestial, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 8: SC around (30)
    Round 9: (SCINC, SC 1) x 15 (45)
    Round 10: SL ST in each st around. (45)
    FO.  Using a long piece of Celestial yarn, sew the hat onto the top of the bird’s head, adding a bit of stuffing into the hat before closing it up.


    I hope you have enjoyed making your very own Bob and Betty bird using this free crochet bird pattern! While you’re here, check out some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Buttons the Bunny Crochet Bunny Pattern, Derek the Dinosaur, Carter the Carrot, Kaya Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Penny the Bunny Cactus. See all available patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: Subscribe to my YouTube channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Two Amigurumi Birds made with this free crochet bird pattern/>
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Koala Keychain Free Crochet Pattern

    Crochet koala keychain made with faux fur yarn being held in an open hand.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    Thank you so much to everyone for all the love you showed my first faux fur yarn project: Kaya Koala. So many people were excited to get started on making a crochet koala of their very own but some found using the faux fur yarn a bit intimidating. As a result, I started a YouTube channel and launched my very first YouTube Video sharing my top tips for working with faux fur yarn. I designed my Crochet Koala Keychain as a starter project for those that may be nervous about crocheting with faux fur yarn. It’s small and quick and helps you get the feel of what it’s like to create an amigurumi type project with faux fur yarn.

    Pin it for later Save

    For my Crochet Koala Keychain project, I have used Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet (crochet.com) in the colour Kuma to create a mini crochet koala head to be used as a keychain. If you leave out the keychain attachments, you could even use it as a pompom on a child’s hat.

    The tools you’ll need to complete this project are 14 yards of faux fur yarn, a small amount of worsted weigh yarn in black, large eye tapestry needle, scissors, a pair of safety eyes, a small amount of polyester stuffing, a split ring and a keychain attachment. These whip up so quickly and are honestly, a little addictive to make. I was able to get 5 of these adorable little guys from one skein of yarn.

    If you’re nervous about working with fur yarns, check out my video below and get my tips for working with this kind of product.

    Crochet Koala Keychain – Free Crochet Pattern

    Crochet Koala Keychain made with faux fur yarn next to a yellow furls crochet hook and a cactus plant.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 2.5” tall


    Gauge: 

    • Not vital to project


    Notes:

    • The head is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.


    Check out the Video Tutorial for this Pattern:

    Pattern:

    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them. Add stuffing.
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole and sew on your split ring.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Sew the split ring to the top of the head.  Weave in ends.

    Crochet Koala Keychain and Amigurumi Koala next to crochet accessories
    My crochet koala keychain with the toy that inspired it: Kaya Koala – Which is also a free crochet pattern here on my blog.

    Nose:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in black and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

    Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Sew onto face and weave in ends.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Ears (Make two)


    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.

    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head.  Sew each ear onto either side of head and weave in ends.


    Finishing Touches


    The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see. 

    Attach Keychain to split ring and you’re all finished!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet koala keychain! If you liked this pattern you may enjoy some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Kaya Koala, Buttons The Bunny Free Crochet Along, Clawdia Cat, Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal and Penny the Bunny Cactus. You can find all my free crochet patterns listed HERE.

    Crochet Koala Keychain next to a yello crochet hook
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
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