• Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part 3

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free bunny crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Please note that this is Part Three of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Two we will be crocheting Buttons’ body/torso and arms.

    • Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
    • Part Two which gives instructions to make the Torso and Arms can be found HERE.
    • The next Live Wednesdays will be at 7PM EST on January 29th in The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.


    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Abbreviations:

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Buttons the Bunny Pattern:

    Legs (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 20: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 21: (SC2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the leg hole closed and sew onto the bottom of the body on either side of the center.

    Tail


    Row 1: Using White yarn and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 9: SC around (30) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 10: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Row 11: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 12: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 13: SCDEC x 6 (6)

    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto the bum of the bunny.  Place the tail in a place where the tail will assist the bunny in sitting upright. I like to sew my tail on after the sweater has been completed and put on Buttons so I can ensure that my placement doesn’t interfere with the sweater in anyway.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Sweater

    Using 4.0mm hook and Burgundy, CH 21
    Row 1: HDC in the 3rd CH from the hook (counts as first HDC). HDC, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 3, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 3, (HDC, CH 2, HDC), HDC 2. (23 HDCs and 4 CH spaces)
    Row 2: CH 2, Turn.  HDC 3, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 7, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 3. (39 HDCs and 4 CH spaces)


    Row 3: CH 2 and turn.  HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH, HDC 9, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH space, HDC 11 (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH space, HDC 9 (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH space, HDC 5 (55 HDC, 4 CH spaces)
    Row 4: CH 2 and turn.  HDC 7, HDC 1 in CH space. SKIP 13 HDC and HDC in the next CH space. HDC 15, HDC 1 in the CH SP. SKIP 13, HDC in the next CH space. HDC 7. (33)
    Rows 5 – 8: CH 2 and turn. HDC across.  FO. (33)
    With the right side facing you, attach the yarn with a SL ST to any stitch on the bottom row of the back of the sweater. CH 1 and SC in the same stitch.  SC around the edge of the sweater (not the sleeves), putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and 3 SCs in each corner. Join your last st to your first stitch with a sl st.  FO and weave in ends.

    Sleeves

    Row 1: Turn the sweater inside out so the wrong side of the sweater is facing you.  Attach your yarn to the stitch closest to the underarm.  CH 2 and HDC in the same stitch.  HDC 16.  Join your first stitch to your last stitch with a sl st.  (16)
    Rows 2 – 3: CH 2 and turn.  HDC around.  Join to first stitch with a sl st. (16)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC around.  Join to first stitch with a sl st. (16).
    FO and weave in ends. 
    Repeat Rows 1 to 4 on second sleeve.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway. I hope you have enjoyed making your very own Buttons the Bunny. Thanks for crocheting along with us!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part Two

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free bunny crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Please note that this is Part Two of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Three we will be crocheting Buttons’ Legs, Tail and Sweater.

    • Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
    • Part Three which gives instructions to make the Legs, Tail and Sweater can be found HERE.
    • The next Live Wednesdays will be at 7PM EST on January 22nd and 29th in The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Pattern:

    Body

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Row 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Row 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Row 8: SC3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rows 9 – 18: SC around (48)
    Row 19: SC3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3(42)
    Row 20: SC around (42) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 21: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Row 22: SC around (36)
    Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30)
    Row 24: SC around (30)
    Row 25: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Row 26: SC around (24)
    Row 27: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 28: SC around (18)

    FO leaving a long tail to sew the body onto the head.  Sew body onto head.  Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head.  Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Arms (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 18: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 19: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the body.  Mine are placed approximately 4 rows down from the top of the body.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part One

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Welcome to the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along! Buttons the Bunny is a sweet little amigurumi bunny that my daughter named Buttons. Ironically, Buttons doesn’t have any actual buttons in his pattern but since this was the first thing she hasn’t named Booba or Mister Happy Face, I didn’t have the heart to change his name.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress. There’s also a giveaway sponsored by Clover USA for participants of the CAL so keep reading to learn more.

    The free crochet pattern for Buttons the Bunny has been split into three parts to make creating him a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    • Part One: Ears, Head and Face Embroidery
    • Part Two: Body and Arms
    • Part Three: Legs, Tail and Sweater

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Live Wednesdays

    For those of you that will be tuning in to the live discussions on Wednesdays during the CAL they will be happening at 7:30PM EST on January 15th, 22nd and 29th.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously offered to sponsor a giveaway for the participants of the CAL! One lucky participant will win a Clover Squad Box full of Clover tools and goodies!

    During the crochet along, share your pictures of your progress and finished bunny, tagging me (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB), using #theloopylambCAL. Each photo shared (must be different pictures) will be an entry into the giveaway. Don’t forget to tag us so we can make sure we see them. The giveaway is open to U.S. residents only. Must be 18 years or older to win. This giveaway is not affiliated with Facebook in any way. Giveaway will close Friday February 7th at midnight EST. A winner will be announced Monday, February 10th.

    Clover Squad box of goodies up for grabs for crochet along participants.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Side view of Buttons the Bunny made with the free crochet along pattern.

    Abbreviations:

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Pattern:

    Head:

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) X 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC1, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC2, SCINC) X 5, SC1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) X 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Row 8: SC2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) X5, SC2 (36)
    Row 9: SC around (36)
    Row 10: (SC5, SCINC) X 6 (42)
    Row 11: SC3, SCINC (SC6, SCINC) X 5, SC3 (48) – **Place safety eyes in stitches 27 and 44 of Row 11

    To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face.  As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.

    Rows 12 – 16: SC around (48)
    Row 17: (SC7, SCINC) X 6 (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row.
    Row 18: SC around (54)
    Row 19: (SC7, SCDEC) X 6 (48)
    Row 20: SC around (48)
    Row 21: SC3, SCDEC (SC6, SCDEC) X 5, SC3 (42)
    Row 22: (SC5, SCDEC) X 6 (36)
    Row 23: SC2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) X5, SC2 (30)

    Now we’re going to indent the face.  Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye.  Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn).  Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like.  You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent.  Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together.  It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension.  Make sure the knot is secure.  Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.

    Buttons the Bunny Amigurumi Crochet Along diagram to show how to do facial indentation.



    Row 24:
    (SC3, SCDEC) X 6 (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row.
    Row 25: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC2, SCDEC) X 5, SC1 (18)
    Row 26: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO and weave in ends.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Embroidering the Nose

    Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC.  Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape.  Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose.  FO and hide your ends inside the head.

    close up image of Buttons the Bunny's face to show placement of embroidery stitches.



    Ears (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SC2, SCINC) x 2 (8)
    Row 3: SC around (8)
    Row 4: (SCINC, SC3) x 2 (10)
    Row 5: SC around (10)
    Row 6: (SCINC, SC1) x 5 (15)
    Row 7: SC around (15)
    Row 8: (SC2, SCINC) x 5 (20)
    Rows 9 – 16: SC around (20)
    Row 17: (SC2, SCDEC) x 5 (15)
    Row 18: SC around (15)
    Row 19: (SC1, SCDEC) x 5 (10)
    Row 20: SC around (10)

    FO leaving an extra-long tail to sew onto head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright.  After I complete one pass through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation.  You can add pipe cleaners to the ears if you’d prefer to help them stand up but I do not recommend giving it to children if they are used.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished bunnies!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Juneau Blues Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern

    Woman wearing a blue hat made with this free crochet pattern by The Loopy Lamb.
    The yarn for this free crochet hat pattern was provided by Hobbii.com. This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I’m back this week with a new free crochet hat pattern – The Juneau Blues Beanie. This is a fitted beanie that alternates between a knit look stitch with a post stitch overlay to create a brick-like texture. I had a difficult time coming up with a name for this pattern and decided to name it after the colourway that inspired it. This is an intermediate level crochet pattern. There are some special stitches used to create this effect so please be sure to read the “special stitches” section of the pattern before jumping in.

    Pin it for later Save

    The Juneau Blues Beanie is made with a self-striping yarn that was generously provided by my friends at Hobbii.com. The yarn is called Hobbii Lollipop and the colour I used is called Juneau. Hobbii Lollipop is a worsted weight, 80% Acrylic/ 20% wool blend yarn that comes in a variety of fun, self-striping colours. Blue being my favourite colour, I was instantly drawn to the Juneau colourway. One 200g ball of Hobbii Lollipop comes with 383 yards/350m of yarn. The yarn is machine washable but Hobbii recommends laying it flat to dry.

    Juneau Blues Beanie (made with this free crochet hat pattern), laid flat next to a crochet hook and scissors.

    As I like to do with self striping yarn, I deconstructed the ball of yarn into it’s separate colours to have more control over the colour changes. This is an optional step for this pattern as it does result in extra ends to weave in. You can let the colour changes happen naturally from the ball however, the colours changes may happen mid-row. If you’re ok with that, then go for it.

    One of the special stitches that I used in the Juneau Blues Beanie I called the Half Double Crochet in the third loop (of a Treble Crochet Stitch). I could not find any reference to this technique elsewhere so if anyone knows of this technique (and any official name) please let me know. This stitch is similar to completing a HDC in the third loop except that the “third loop” refers to the loop at the back of the stitch that was created by the last yarn over in a treble crochet. It is directly below the back loop of the stitch. To make it simple, think of it like a half double crochet stitch and put your hook under the loop that you would when working a stitch into the third loop of a half double crochet stitch.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    If you’re making a Juneau Blues Beanie and sharing it on social media, I’d love it if you tagged me or used #theloopylamb so I can see all of your beautiful makes. If you’re looking for another free crochet hat pattern, check out the bottom of this post for some suggestions or click HERE to see all the free patterns available on my site.

    Juneau Blues Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern

    Woman wearing beanie made with this free crochet pattern, holding a mug.

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    5.0 mm and 5.5mm crochet hooks
    2.4 oz/68 g (120 m/131 yards) of Hobbii Lollipop in Juneau (03)
    Faux Fur Pompom (optional)
    Measuring Tape
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Terminology: U.S. Terminology

    Abbreviations:

    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    HDCDEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease
    TR = Treble Crochet
    FO = Finish Off


    Special Stitches:

    Half Double Crochet in the third loop (of a Half Double Crochet Stitch)/Camel Stitch:  Yarn over and insert your hook into the third loop on the back of the indicated HDC stitch.  Yarn over, pull up a loop.  Three loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all three loops.  Stitch completed. 

    Half Double Crochet in the third loop (of a Treble Crochet Stitch):  Yarn over and insert your hook into the third loop (the last wrap on your post stitch) on the back of the indicated treble crochet stitch.  Yarn over, pull up a loop.  Three loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all three loops.  Stitch completed. To make it simple, think of it like a half double crochet stitch and put your hook under the loop that you would when working a stitch into the third loop of a half double crochet stitch.

    Single Crochet in the third loop (of a Half Double Crochet Stitch): Insert hook into the third loop of the indicated stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  Two loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.  Stitch completed.


    Finished Size:  8.5” tall by 10” wide when laid flat.

    Gauge: 15 sts x 13 rows = 4 inches


    NOTES:

    • For this pattern, in order to maintain clean colour changes, I deconstructed my Hobbii yarn cake and made little bobbins of each colour. This is an optional step.  If you don’t want to deal with weaving in the extra ends, you can continue as the yarn comes out of the cake.
    • Tip for cleaner seam: On the camel stitch rows, when joining at the end of the round, rather than completing my sl st the normal way, I take my hook out of the working loop and insert it from back to front of the first stitch of that round.  I then pull the working loop from the front of the hat to the inside of the hat and pull it taught.  Then I do the appropriate number of chains needed and crochet as normal.
    • CH 2s at the beginning of a row do not count as a stitch.
    • Where “Join” is indicated, join the end of your row to the beginning of your row with a sl st.
    Close up of the texture of the Juneau Blues Beanie
    Close up of the texture on the Juneau Blues Beanie

    Band 

    Using 5.0mm hook, CH 7. 
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC 4.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 2:  SC in same st.  SC 4 in BLO.  SC in last st, under both loops.  Ch 1 and turn. (6)

    Repeat row two until your band is approximately 18.5” long when slightly stretched.  You can make the band a little shorter or longer than that as needed.  Generally, a good length for a band for an adult is between 18” – 19” long when laid flat and slightly stretched.  When completed, fold the band in half and sl st the two sides together.  Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside and the right side is facing you.

    Hat Body: 

    Using 5.5mm hook
    Row 1:
    CH 1.  SC 72 evenly around the top of the band.  Join. (72)
    Row 2: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Row 3: CH 2.  HDC in the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Rows 4 – 6: CH 2.  HDC in the third loop of the first st and in each st around.  Join. (72)
    Row 7: CH 1. TR in the first st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 7th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 13th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 19th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 25th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 31st st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 37th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 43rd st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 49th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 55th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 61st st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 67th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the last 5 sts. Join. (72)
    Row 8: CH 1.  SC in the third loop of the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Row 9: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each st around. Join. (72)
    Row 10: CH 2.  HDC in the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Rows 11 – 13: CH 2.  HDC in the third loop of the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Row 14: CH 1. TR in the first st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 7th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 13th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 19th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 25th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 31st st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 37th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 43rd st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 49th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 55th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 61st st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 67th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. Join. (72)

    Juneau Blues Beanie laid flat next to a furls crochet hook.


    Row 15: CH 1.  SC in the third loop of the first st and each st around. Join. (72)
    Row 16: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each st across (72)
    Row 17: CH 2.  HDC in the first 5 sts, HDCDEC, (HDC 10, HDCDEC in the next) x 5, HDC in the last 5 sts. Join. (66)
    Row 18: CH 2.  In the third loop, (HDC in the first 9 sts, HDCDEC) x 6.  Join. (60)
    Row 19: CH 2.  In the third loop, HDC in the first 4 sts, HDCDEC, (HDC in the next 8 sts, HDCDEC) x 5, HDC in the last 4 sts.  Join. (54)
    Row 20: CH 2.  In the third loop, (HDC in the first 7 sts, HDCDEC) x 6. Join. (48)
    Row 21: CH 1. TR in the first st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 2 sts, HDCDEC, HDC. TR in the 7th st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 13th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 2.  TR in the 19th st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 25th st of Row 17.  In the third loop HDCDEC, HDC 1.  TR in the 31st st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 37th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 2.  TR in the 43rd st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 49th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 2.  TR in the 55th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 1.  TR in the 61st st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDC, HDCDEC.  Join. (42)
    Row 22: CH 1.  In third loop, (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6.  Join. (36)
    Row 23: CH 1.  SC in the first 2 sts, SCDEC.  (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC in the last 2 sts.  Join. (30)
    Row 24: CH 2.  (HDC 3, HDCDEC) x 6.  Join. (24)
    Row 25: CH 2.  In the third loop, HDC 1, HDCDEC, (HDC 2, HDCDEC) x 5, HDC in the last st.  Join. (18)
    Row 26: CH 1.  (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6.  Join. (12)
    Row 27: CH 1.  (SCDEC) x 6.  Join. (6)
    FO and weave in ends.  If using a pompom, secure to the top of the hat.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Looking for another free crochet hat pattern? Check out some of my other free crochet hat patterns here: Arctic Gem Beanie, Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat, Crochet Tartan Beanie, The Aeipathy Beanie.

  • Crochet Patterns

    The Heather Super Scarf – Free Crochet Scarf Pattern

    Woman wearing Heather Super Scarf
    This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post and all opinions are my own.

    Looking for a beginner’s scarf pattern or a crochet scarf pattern that works up quickly? Then the Heather Super Scarf is for you! This free crochet scarf pattern is made with super bulky yarn and a big crochet hook so you will be wearing it in no time. It is so warm and cozy, you won’t be worried about getting cold this winter wearing this scarf.

    The Heather Super Scarf is an execellent crochet scarf pattern for beginners or for crocheting while you’re binge-watching your favouriteT.V. shows. This scarf pattern has a simple two row repeat that doesn’t require any counting. The bulky yarn helps define the texture, makes amazing chunky tassels and keeps you super warm.

    Pin it for later Save

    Special thanks to my beautiful cousin Heather for modelling this scarf for me. Doesn’t she look gorgeous in this scarf? She enjoyed the scarf so much that she ended up taking it home with her.

    Ready to get started making your own Heather Super Scarf?

    Woman facing away from the camer holding the Heather Super Scarf out behind her with her outstretched arms.

    Skill Level: Beginner

    Supplies:
    10 mm crochet hook
    4 balls (424 yards) of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick in any colour. I use the colour Mustard
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors
    6” long piece of cardboard or a tassel maker

    Woman with face partially concelaed by scarf made with this free crochet scarf pattern.

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    DC = Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Woman looking off-screen wearing the Heather Super Scarf in mustard


    Finished size: 10” Wide by 84” Long (not including tassels)

    Gauge: 8 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES: The CH 1 at the beginning of each even numbered row counts as a slip stitch.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Woman smiling and throwing leave in the air wearing the Heather Super Scarf

    Crochet Scarf Pattern:

    CH 21.
    Row 1: DC in the 4th CH from the hook and each CH across. Turn. (19)
    Row 2: CH 1 (counts as a SL ST), DC in the 2nd st, *SL ST in the next st, DC in the next st*. Repeat instructions in ** until end of row. Turn. (19)
    Row 3: CH 3 (counts as first st. DC in 2nd stitch and each stitch across. Turn.
    Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until scarf measures 84” long.
    FO and weave in ends.

    Woman smiling, wearing the Heather Super Scarf made with the free crochet scarf pattern found on this site.

    Tassels: (make 4)

    Wrap the yarn around a piece of cardboard 6” wide approximately 20 times.  Tie the top of the tassel with another piece of yarn to secure it (ensuring that it is long enough to attach it to the scarf.  I used an 8” piece). Cut one side of the yarn that’s wrapped around the cardboard and remove the yarn from the cardboard.  Take another length of yarn and wrap it around the top of the tassel 8 to 10 times tightly.  Tie a knot and bury the end inside the tassel.   Trim the tassel ends evenly.  Attach a tassel to each corner of the scarf securely.

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet scarf pattern. Looking for another quick crochet scarf pattern? Check out my Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf. Here are some other quick crochet patterns using chunky yarn you’ll want to check out while you’re here: Super Quick and Chunky Cowl, Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket and, The Bobblelicious Bag.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Tartan Beanie Free Crochet Pattern

    Woman laughing wearing the Crochet Tartan Beanie
    This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.

    The Crochet Tartan Beanie is the 2nd pattern in my crochet tartan series. This hat was designed to match my Crochet Tartan Cowl pattern. The Crochet Tartan Beanie features a classically beautiful tartan pattern that is comprised of simple colour changes and stitches.

    The Crochet Tartan Beanie is made working in rows to create a rectangular piece of fabric. The vertical lines of the tartan pattern are then added using surface crochet stitches. Once the surface crochet is completed, the hat is seamed up and cinched closed on one end to create the beanie. Adding a pompom to finish it off, and you’re done your Crochet Tartan Beanie.

    Pin it for later Save.

    Close up of stitches on the Crochet Tartan Beanie with a wooden crochet hook on top

    New to Surface Crochet?

    As I mentioned, this beanie pattern uses surface crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with this technique, take a look at my post HERE to see my instructions and tips for working surface crochet stitches.

    Crochet Tartan Beanie Pattern

    Woman smiling wearing the crochet tartan beanie

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    6.0 mm hook
    105 yards/96 m (1.83 oz/52 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Stardust
    41 yards/38 m (0.71 oz/20 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Cranberry
    41 yards/38 m (0.71 oz/20 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Moss
    Faux fur pom pom (optional)
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Abbreviations:

    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off


    Finished size: Approximately 8.5” tall x 10.25” wide
    Size before seaming: 20.5” wide by 8.5” tall

    Gauge: 14 sts x 11.5 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES: You’ll be doing surface crochet stitches to create the vertical striping of the tartan. When doing the vertical striping, if you find that your fabric is losing a lot of stretch or bunching up, it means your slip stitches are too tight.  Make sure you keep your slip stitches loose.  Don’t hesitate to go up a hook size or two to keep your stitches from being too tight.

    Crochet Tartan Beanie Pattern 

    Row 1: FDHDC 72 or CH 73 and HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each remaining CH. Turn. (72 sts)
    Rows 2 – 3:  CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)
    Change to Cranberry
    Rows 4 – 5: CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)
    Change to Stardust
    Row 6:  CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)
    Change to Moss
    Rows 7 – 8: CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Change to Stardust
    Rows 9 – 14: CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)

    Crochet Tartan Beanie folded and lain flat, next to a wooden crochet hook and a coffee.


    Change to Cranberry
    Rows 15 – 16: CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)
    Change to Stardust
    Row 17:  CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)
    Change to Moss
    Rows 18 – 19: CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)
    Change to Stardust
    Rows 20 – 25: CH 2.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around.  Turn. (72 sts)

    Hat should measure approximately 8.5” in length.  If you want a slouchier hat, keep repeating rows 15 to 25 until you reach your desired length.  FO leaving a really long tail to seam up the hat.  Don’t seam up your hat yet. We’re going to add the vertical lines first.

    Adding the vertical stripes using surface crochet:

    Using Cranberry, make a slip knot.  Insert your hook into the bottom part of your sixth stitch in your starting chain of the cowl.  Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project.  With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches) and the right side facing you, slip stitch into the sixth stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl.  FO.  Repeat these steps again, starting in the 15th, 24th, 33rd, 42nd, 51st, 60th and 69th stitch of each row. You will have 8 cranberry vertical lines.

    Crochet Tartan Beanie folded and lain flat with a wooden crochet hook on top. Two balls of Mary Maxim Woodlands yarn next to it.

    Using Moss, make a slip knot.   Insert your hook into the bottom part of your seventh stitch in your starting chain of the cowl.  Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project.  With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches), working right to left, slip stitch into the seventh stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl.  FO.  Repeat these steps again, starting in the 16th, 25th, 34th, 43rd, 52nd, 61st and 70th stitch of each row.  You will have 8 moss vertical lines.

    FO and weave in ends.

    Finishing your hat:

    Fold your fabric in half lengthwise and line the ends of the rows up together.  Seam the ends together using the mattress stitch or your favourite seaming method.  FO and weave in end.

    Using the long tail you left after crocheting your hat, weave your tail through the last round of the hat.  Pull tightly and sew your hole shut.  If using a pom pom, secure your pom pom to your hat and weave in your ends.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Tartan Cowl – Free Crochet Cowl Pattern

    Crochet Tartan Cowl which is grey with green and cranberry stripes being worn by a mannequin
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches. If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl. I can’t wait to see all of the colour combos everyone comes up with!

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is made using three different colours of Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn. I’ve used the colours Moss, Cranberry and Stardust. This was my first time using Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn and it was love at first squish. This yarn is an acrylic/alpaca blend (90%/10%) and is delightfully soft and cozy. It does have a little bit of a halo (I suspect from the addition of the alpaca fibers) but doesn’t hinder visibility or diminish stitch definition. The colours are rich and beautiful. I mean, that cranberry yarn is so awesome, that I want to use it for everything right now. This is definitely a yarn that I want to keep handy in my stash.

    Pin it for later HERE.

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl measures approximately 10 inches wide by 35 inches long. The cowl fits closely to the neck and you fold the top edge down to create a sort of collar. If you prefer a looser fitting cowl, the pattern gives you intstructions for making the cowl any length you prefer. If you do alter the length of your cowl, please keep in mind that it will affect how much yarn you will require.

    close up of the buttons on the crochet plaid cowl.

    How to Surface Crochet

    To make the vertical striping on the Crochet Tartan Cowl, I used a technique called surface crochet. Surface crochet is a technique to add stitches to the surface of your project using slip stitches. This is a fairly simple technique that gives you a pretty chain along the top of your project. The wrong side of your project looks like it has little dashes instead of the chain.

    The two most important things to remember when doing surface crochet are:
    1. Make sure the right side of your project is facing you and,
    2. Don’t make your slip stitches too tight!

    I cannot stress #2 enough. If your slip stitches are too tight, it can warp your fabric and your fabric will lose it’s elasticity because the slip stitches will prevent the fabric from stretching. If you need to go up a hook size (or two) in order to help keep a loose tension on your slip stitches, don’t hesitate to do it. You may kick yourself later if you don’t.

    To do surface crochet, start with the right side of the fabric facing you:

    • Insert your hook into the stitch you want to start with from right side of the fabric to the wrong side. Put your slip knot onto your hook and pull from the wrong side of your fabric to the right side of your fabric. You will be holding the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric as you do this
    • Insert your hook into the next stitch/or spot you are wanting to make your stitch in. Pull up a loop through your fabric and pull through the loop on your hook. 1 slip stitch created.
    • Repeat these steps until you are satisfied with your surface crochet and FO. I like to pull my tail to the back of my work and then weave my ends in.

    If you want to see a video tutorial on surface crochet to see it in action, check out this video by B.Hooked Crochet HERE.

    Plaid cowl pattern, free crochet pattern, button cowl pattern free

    Crochet Tartan Cowl

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    6.0 mm hook
    188 yards/172 m (3.3 oz/94 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Stardust
    68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Cranberry
    68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Moss
    3 – 1.5” Buttons
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Abbreviations:

    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.


    Finished size: Approximately 35” Long by 10” wide

    Gauge: 14 sts x 11.5 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES: You’ll be doing surface crochet stitches to create the vertical striping of the tartan. When doing the vertical striping, if you find that your fabric is losing a lot of stretch or bunching up, it means your slip stitches are too tight.  Make sure you keep your slip stitches loose.  Don’t hesitate to go up a hook size or two to keep your stitches from being too tight.

    Pattern

    Using Stardust, CH 35
    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook and each st across. (34)
    Rows 2 – 4: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Cranberry
    Rows 5 – 6:  CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Stardust
    Row 7: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Moss
    Rows 8 – 9: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Stardust
    Rows 10 – 15: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Cranberry
    Rows 16 – 17:  CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Stardust
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Moss
    Rows 19 – 20: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)

    Girl wearing the Crochet Plaid Cowl, made in grey, red and green.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Rows 21 – 97: Repeat rows 10 – 20 7 more times. (34)
    If you want a longer cowl, keep repeating Rows 10 – 20 and return to Row 98 when ready to complete.
    Change to Stardust

    Row 98: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts.  CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 8 sts, CH 3, SK 3 the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 9 sts, CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (25 sts and 3 CH spaces)
    Row 99: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts.  HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the next 8 sts, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC 9, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (34)
    Rows 100 – 101: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Adding the vertical stripes using surface crochet:
    Using Cranberry, make a slip knot.  Insert your hook into the bottom part of your third stitch in your starting chain of the cowl.  Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project.  With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches) and the right side facing you, slip stitch into the third stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl.  FO.  Repeat these steps again, starting in the 12th stitch of each row, the 22nd stitch of each row and the 31st stitch of each row.

    Using Moss, make a slip knot.   Insert your hook into the bottom part of your fourth stitch in your starting chain of the cowl.  Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project.  With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches), working right to left, slip stitch into the fourth stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl.  FO.  Repeat these steps again in the 13th stitch of each row, 23rd stitch of each row and the 32nd stitch of each row

    FO and weave in ends.

    Sew your buttons using a length of stardust yarn onto the long side of the cowl, on the end of the piece without the button holes  To get the right placement, I fold the two ends of the cowl down so they overlap each other (the end with the button holes on top).  Place the buttons on top of the buttonholes and sew into place.  I like to shift the end with the button holes down a little bit so that end of the cowl on the bottom lines up with the last line of surface stitches rather than the edge of the cowl so there’s less chance of the corner without a button creeping out on you.

    Fold the top edge down to form a collar

    Thanks for stopping by and checking out my pattern for the Crochet Tartan Cowl. Ready to make the matching The Crochet Tartan Beanie? If you like free crochet cowl patterns, check out the free patter for my Ava Cowl or my Super Quick Chunky Cowl.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a free crochet patterh for a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches.  If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl.

#crochetpattern #freecrochet #buttoncowl #crochetcowl #crochetcowlpattern #plaidcowl #tartancowl
  • Crochet Patterns

    The Aeipathy Beanie

    Woman wearing sunglasses wearing a purple Aeipathy Beanie
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    The Aeipathy Beanie is a crochet hat pattern that combines two of my favourite stitches: Bobble Stitch and Camel Stitch. I also love the colour purple. So when it was time to come up with a name, The Aeipathy Beanie seemed appropriate since Aeipathy means “a continued passion” and I definitely have a continued passion for textured stitches and crochet in general.

    To make this hat, I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn in Hot Springs which is a size 4 aran weight yarn. Some great yarns that you could use as substitute for the Heartland yarn are: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Caron One Pound and Red Heart With Love yarn. Ultimately, as long as you match gauge, you can use another medium weight, size 4 yarn that isn’t in the list suggested above.

    free crochet hat pattern for The Aeipathy Beanie by The Loopy Lamb

    I like to top my crochet hats with a faux fur pompom but that step is optional. If you want to take a hand at making your own DIY faux fur pom pom, this tutorial from Heart Hook Home is really helpful. I’ve used the same process described in the tutorial to make my own pom poms with success. However, time is often limited so I generally use THESE pompoms from Amazon.

    Save it for later on Pinterest HERE.

    To make this crochet hat, you’ll need to know how to crochet in the third loop of a stitch (aka camel stitch), single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and how to make a magic circle.

    free crochet hat pattern for The Aeipathy Beanie by The Loopy Lamb

    Aeipathy Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    5.5 mm crochet hook
    3.8oz/109 yards of Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in Hot Springs
    Tapestry Needle
    Faux Fur Pom Pom (optional)

    Abbreviations:

    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase
    DC = Double Crochet
    DC Increase = Double Crochet Increase
    Bobble = Bobble Stitch (see Special Stitches for instructions for this stitch)
    MC = Magic Circle
    FO = Finish Off

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    girl wearing The Aeipathy Beanie made with the free crochet pattern from The Loopy Lamb

    Size: One Size – Adult
    Finished size: Approximately 8.5 inches tall x 10 inches wide.

    Gauge: 17 HDC sts across x 12 rows = 4” square

    NOTES:

    – On the bobble stitch rows, the hat is worked with the wrong side facing you so that the bobble stitches will push out to the right side of the work.
    – Join indicates that you should join the last stitch of the round to the top of the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch.
    – CH 2 at the beginning of DC rounds counts as a stitch.

    Special Stitches:

    Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG).  To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch.  YO and draw up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook).  Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook.  YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.

    Pattern

    Row 1: Make a MC. CH 2 and DC 11 into the MC. Join to the top of the first DC with a slip stitch. From here on referred to as “Join”. (12)
    Row 2: CH 2. DC in the first stitch, DCINC in the next 11 stitches. Join.  CH 2 and turn (24)
    Row 3: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch).  Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join.  CH 2 and turn. (24)
    Row 4: (HDCINC in the first stitch, HDC 1 in the next stitch).  Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join and CH 2. (36)
    Row 5: In 3rd loop, HDC 1 in the first stitch, HDCINC in the next stitch, (HDC 2, HDCINC) repeat this pattern 11 times, HDC 1 in the last stitch.  Join and CH 2 (48)
    Row 6: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 3 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12.  Join and CH 2 (60)
    Row 7: HDC in the first 2 stitches, HDCINC in the next. (HDC in the next 4 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 11, HDC in the last 2 stitches. Join and CH 2 (72)

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The Aeipathy Beanie with handmade wooden crochet hook and scissors laid on top

    Row 8: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 5 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12.  Join.  CH 2 and turn. (84)
    Row 9: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 10: HDC in each stitch around.  Join. CH 2.  (84)
    Rows 11 – 12: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join. CH 2. (84)
    Row 13: HDC in each stitch around.  Join. CH 2. (84)
    Row 14: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 15: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 16: HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 (84)
    Rows 17 – 18: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn. (84)

    girl acting silly wearing The Aeipathy Beanie, a crochet hat pattern from The Loopy Lamb


    Row 19: HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 (84)
    Row 20: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 21: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28.  Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
    Row 22: HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn. (84)
    Rows 23 – 24: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2. (84)
    Row 25: Repeat Row 22. (84)
    Rows 26 – 28: Repeat Row 23. (84)
    FO and weave in ends. If using pompom, secure to the top of the hat using your preferred method.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like to make crochet hats? Check out my free crochet hat patterns for the Arctic Gem Beanie and the Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat.

    The Aeipathy Beanie - a free crochet hat pattern from The Loopy Lamb.

This highly textured beanie is comprised of simple crochet stitches and is a quick and easy crochet pattern, accessible for beginners.

#crochethat #crochetbeanie #bobblestitch #beanie #freecrochetpattern #crochetpatternfree #freehatpattern #freecrochethatpattern #freepattern
  • Crochet Patterns

    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow

    The Mad About Boo Pillow is a Black Crochet Pillow with a White Ghost and the word Boo on it in orange.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    The kids are back in school and there is a bit of a chill in the air and that means one thing… Halloween is almost here! It’s time to work on an adorable and fun crochet Halloween pillow. The Mad About Boo Halloween Pillow is an easy crochet project that is fun without being too scary for young kids.

    This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique. Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work. Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour.

    Pillow Panels

    The front panel of the Mad About Boo crochet Halloween pillow (the ghost side) is worked using the Instaria technique. I made small balls/bobbins of black yarn to minimize how much “floating” was happening behind my panel. It meant a few extra ends to weave in, however, it was cleaner and minimized pulling on the back. If you don’t carry your yarn loosely, it can cause your panel not to lay flat so be sure to watch the tension on that yarn.

    Reading Intarsia Colour Charts

    To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left.  For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again.  Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction. Each square in your chart = 1 SC stitch

    The back panel of the halloween pillow is made is the standard crochet technique and it made using only one colour.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy which includes both the chart and the written instructions for this pattern.

    Mad About You Intarsia Crochet Chart Free Pattern
    1 box = 1 stitch

    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    4.5 mm hook
    3.6 oz/103g of Red Heart Super Saver in Black
    2.6 oz/73g of Red Heart Super Saver in White
    0.7 oz/19g of Red Heart Super Saver in Carrot
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Don’t lose it! Pin it for later HERE.

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    Finished size:  11.5” Long by 10” tall

    Gauge: 15 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES:

    • Each square = 1 SC stitch
    • To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left.  For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again.  Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction.
    • This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique.  Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work.  Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour. 
    • You can use the chart or the written instructions for the pattern for the front panel.  The written instructions are needed for the back panel and edging.
    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow with some pumpkin decor and a furls crochet hook

    Front Panel

    Row 1: Using Black, CH 45 SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across. CH 1 turn. (44 sts)
    Row 2: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 3: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 9 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 4: 6 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 8 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 5: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 7 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 6: 4 Black, 25 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 7: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 8: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 9: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 10: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 11: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 12: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 13: 15 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 14: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 15: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 16: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 17: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 18: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 19: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 20: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 21: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 22: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 23: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 24: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 25: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 26: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 27: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 28: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 29: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 30: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 31: 16 Black, 23 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 32: 6 Black, 21 White, 6 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 33: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 7 Black, 19 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 34: 8 Black, 17 White, 8 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 35: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 9 Black, 15 White, 9 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 36: 10 Black, 13 White, 10 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 37: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 11 Black, 11 White, 11 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 38: 33 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 39: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 40: 44 Black. (44 sts)

    Fasten off and sew in your ends

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back Panel

    Using Black, CH 45.
    Row 1:  SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across (44)
    Rows 2 – 40: CH 1 and turn. SC in the first stitch and in each stitch across. (44)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Mad about Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow

    Assembly and Trim

    Row 1: Place the panels on top of one another with the wrong sides facing each other and the front panel on top.  We’ll be crocheting through both layers to add a trim to our pillow as well as seam it together.  Attach the yarn to any stitch along the top of the pillow and working through both layers, SC in the same stitch that you joined,  SC around the pillow, putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each corner. When you’re about ¾ of the way around your pillow, start adding your stuffing.  Continue to stuff firmly as you add your trim and your pillow is fully seamed closed.  Join to the first stitch with a sl st.

    Row 2: Ch 1 and SC in each stitch around, placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each HDC stitch from the previous round.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a sl st.  FO and weave in ends.

    You don’t have to finish the pillow here.  Add some stripes, tassels or pompoms to your edging to spice it up and give it a bit more flair.

    Now that you’re done with your crochet Halloween pillow, why not get a jump on your Christmas decor with these free Christmas crochet patterns: Saint Prickolaus Cactus Cuddler and Randy the Cactus Reindeer.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb .  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    The Bobblelicious Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

    The Bobblelicious Bag: a round crochet purse with a chain style strap comprised of chunky bobble stitches
    This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.

    The Bobblelicious Bag is a fun crochet circle bag that is made of super chunky bobble stitches. Once it is assembled, it kind of looks like a pillbox bag. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder “where did she buy that bag?”.

    The Bobblelicious Bag is crocheted by holding two strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota Chunky Yarn together. Sarasota Chunky is a cotton/acrylic (60%/40%) mix size 5 yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable (yay!) and it comes in a variety of colours. (www.cascadeyarns.com) I really enjoyed working with this yarn for this project.

    Ashley wearing the Bobblelicious Bag outdoors

    I decided to take my hand at lining this bag and I am so glad that I did. It is one of my favourite parts of this bag. I picked a cotton fabric in a vibrant teal colour to line my bag. So although the outside of my bag may be a subtle silver/grey colour, there’s that beautiful pop of colour when you open it. I can’t wait to see what colour combos you all come up with when you’re making your Bobblelicious Bags!

    The surprise pop of colour on the Bobblelicious bag, it has a bright teal lining!
    A peek of the inside of my Bobblelicious Bag

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    • 10 mm hook
    • Approximately 1 ball** (6.9 oz/195g) of Sarasota Chunky Yarn in Silver (Colour No. 222) **See Note section regard the potential need for a second skein.
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Stitch Marker
    • 9″ Zipper in a coordinating colour
    • 51” Purse Strap – I got mine HERE.  It came with the tassel that I attached to the zipper
    • 2 – 1” wide triangle rings for making detachable straps (I used these HERE)
    • 0.25 meters of heavy weight fusible interfacing (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
    • 0.25 meters of fabric (I used cotton) in your preferred colour for lining the inside of your bag (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
    • Sewing Needle
    • Iron
    • Sewing thread that matches the colour of your bag
    • Sewing Machine for lining your bag
    • Fabric marker/pencil or something to mark your fabric with
    • Fabric Scissors
    • Sewing Pins

    Get a copy of the inexpensive ad-free PDF HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • FO = Finish Off
    • Bobble = Bobble Stich

    Special Stitches: Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG).  To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch.  YO and draw up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook).  Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook.  YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.

    Size: One Size
    Finished size: Approximately 9 inches tall x 9 inches wide x 3” deep. Measurements do not include strap

    Gauge: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 4” square

    Pin in for later: HERE


    NOTES:

    • This bag is made out of two different panels that are worked in the round and then sewn together.  The end of each round is joined with a sl st.
    • This bag is made holding two strands of yarn together.  You can use one skein of yarn and pull from both ends of the skein or get two skeins and pull from the center of each skein.

    Panels (Make 2)

    Row 1: Holding 2 strands of Sarasota chunky yarn together, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (6)
    Row 2: *SC 1, Bobble* in each stitch around.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (12)
    Row 3: (SCINC) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (24)
    Row 4: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC 1 in the next) x 12.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next) x 12.  Join with a sl st to the first st. CH 1. (36)
    Row 6: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 18.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (36)
    Row 7: (SC 2, SCINC in the next stitch) x 12.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1(48)
    Row 8: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (48)
    Row 9: SC in each stitch around. (48)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Image of The Bobblelicious Bag against an aged fence.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Lining Your Bobblelicious Bag

    Fold the fabric you will be lining your bag with, in half so you can cut two circles at the same time. Lay one of your bag panels on top of the fabric and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew.  You should now have two fabric circles. Repeat these steps again on your interfacing so you have a total of 2 fabric circles and 2 interfacing circles. 

    Using your iron, fuse one of your fabric circles to each of your interfacing circles.  This means you’ll have two interfacing circles with fabric on them.

    Place your interfacing circles (fabric side facing the wrong side of your panel so that if there are holes in your panel, the coloured fabric will show through) on the back of each of your panels.  If your circles are too big to fit inside the panel without stretching it, trim the circles down until they fit snuggly inside each panel.

    Once you’re confident with the fit, of your interfacing circles, lay one of your interfacing circles on top of the fabric that has been folded in half and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew.  You should now have 2 interfacing circles (fused with fabric) and 2 fabric circles.

    Measure the width of your bag and add 1” for seam allowances.  Measure the circumference (around the outside) of your bag and subtract 8 inches from that measurement (to leave space for your zipper).  Using these measurements, cut a strip from your fabric.

    Pin a fabric circle to each edge of the long strip you just cut, leaving a 1/2” seam allowance.  Sew around the edge of each circle to seam it to the strip, stopping at the end of the strip.  This is honestly probably the most time-consuming part so take your time.

    Adding the Zipper

    Cut a 9.5” – 10” long x 4” wide piece of fabric and cut it in half.  These pieces will be sewn onto either side of the zipper.  Fold the long edge of each strip a ¼” and iron it down to hold it in place.  Pin that edge to your zipper (with nice side of fabric facing up) ensuring that you leave enough for the zipper to move freely.  Repeat with the second strip. Sew the strips onto your zipper. 

    Image of the zipper being prepped be added to the Bobblelicious Bag

    With the zipper facing up and the bag lining with the wrong side facing out, line up your zipper with the opening on your lining that was left for the zipper.  Pin together, leaving a ¼ to ½” seam allowance and sew together, around the entire piece.

    Assembly

    Place your interfusing panels inside each of your crocheted panels.  If your panels aren’t fitting snuggly you can tack them in place by hand sewing them with a coordinating thread to your crochet panel.  Place the two crochet panels together with right sides facing out.  Holding two long lengths of yarn together, whip stitch the two panels together, leaving an opening of at least 9.5” for the zipper.  You may want to wait until you are done sewing in your zipper before you weave in the ends from this so if you need a little extra wiggle room to get your zipper in, you’ll have some give in the seam because it isn’t finished. 

    Bobblelicious Bag by The Loopy Lamb 

Free Crochet Pattern for a beautiful bobble stitch purse.

    Place your lining (with the wrong side facing out) inside the purse and using a sewing thread and needle, hand sew the zipper to the opening of your bag.  Weave in your ends from your whip stitch seam. 

    Line up your triangle rings on each side of the bag, approximately 2.5” inches below the edges of your zipper.  Using a length of yarn, sew to your bag.  Attach your purse strap to the triangle rings.  If using a tassel, attach it to the zipper. 

    Viola!  You’re finished your Bobblelicious Bag!  I hope you enjoy 😊

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Bobblelicious Bag!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like making crochet bags? Check out my free patterns for The Vendbar Tote (The Reversible Tote Bag), The Colour Block Makeup Bag or The Rainbow Saver Tote Bag.

    The Bobblelicious Bag is a free crochet pattern features chunky bobble stitches and a surprise pop of colour. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder "where did she buy that bag?".  Check out the free crochet pattern for the Bobblelicious Baf from The Loopy Lamb

#bobblestitch #purse #bobblestitchbag #bag #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #freepattern #bobbleliciousbag #Crochetpurse #crochetbag