• Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird

    Two chubby crochet birds, one wearing a hat and one with a flower on her head.
    This page may contain affiliate links.

    This free crochet bird pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    This week I’d love to introduce you to my new free crochet bird pattern to make my little friends Bob and Betty Bird. This is a quick and easy amigurumi bird pattern that makes two chubby little birds who are ready for spring. They’re all dressed up to celebrate the spring season and make new friends after a long winter away.

    Bob and Betty are a pattern that was created with the help of my two young children. I wanted to make a crochet bird pattern for spring and started on a prototype. Once my children saw it, they both wanted one of their own, in their favourite colours. I was happy to oblige and began making them their own birds.

    It felt like the birds needed a little something more though so I asked my kids: “what do you think this little crochet bird needs to make them cuter?” They came up with some fun ideas but ultimately, my daugther decided on a pink flower and eyelashes for her bird and my son wanted a blue hat. My kids are always a big inspiration for me but it was especially fun creating this for them to be exactly what they wanted it to be.

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    My husband laid claim to the original prototype and wanted nothing added to his. So thanks to my kids, instead of one free crochet bird pattern to share with you today, we have two. We hope you enjoy them. I know my kids certainly do!

    For this project I used some wonderful tools from Clover USA, specifically, a Clover Amour crochet hook, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needles and Quick Lock Stitch Markers.

    Two amigurumi birds standing in front of clover usa products used in the free crochet pattern

    A good quality, comfortable crochet hook and locking stitch markers are vital tools to creating amigurumi. When creating an amigurumi project, the stitches tend to be tighter than other projects in order to prevent the stuffing from showing. This can lead to hand pain if you have an uncomfortable crochet hook. I found this hook to be incredibly comfortable and smoothe to work with.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    I exclusively use locking stitch markers. The reason being is that I don’t trust stitch markers that don’t lock. I’ve had other stitch markers that didn’t lock fall out of my work, losing my place too many times to count. And that, is just too frustrating to deal with. If you really enjoy making amirugumi, then I highly recommend locking stitch markers become your new best friend. The Quick Lock Stitch Markers from Clover were fab. They come in a great little box that latches closed so it helps me keep them all in the same place (besides the ones that fall in my couch lol). Not only did the little kit of stitch markers come with a few different sizes, they look like tiny little sheep. They are just C.U.T.E.!

    Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird

    Back view of the birds made with this free crochet bird pattern
    Check out those cute little tails!



    Check out the free tutorial for this pattern on YouTube!



    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    The yarn and some of the tools used in this free crochet bird pattern.

    Supplies to make Betty Bird (Purple Bird):

    Supplies to make Bob Bird (Blue Bird):

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FLO = Front Loops Only.
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 3” tall by 4.5” wide from wing tip to wing tip

    Gauge:

    • 10.5 sts x 11.5 rows = 2 inches

    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The Body, Wing, Beak and Tail pattern is the same for both birds.  The only difference is the colour you use.  Where “main colour” is indicated, use Fairy Tale (purple) for Betty Bird (she’s wearing a flower) and Denim (blue) for the Bob Bird (he’s wearing a hat).

    Amigurumi birds standing on top of colourful yarn

    Body:

    Round 1: Using your main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 5, SCINC, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 9 – 17: SC around (48) – Place safety eyes in Round 15 with 7 sts between them.
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42)
    Round 19: SC around (42)
    Round 20: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 21: SC 2, (SCDEC, SC 4) x 5, SCDEC, SC 2 (30)
    Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing with each round.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 23: SC 1, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC 1 (18)
    Round 24: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening.  Weave in ends.

    ** For Betty Bird Only**
    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Purple crochet bird made with this free crochet bird pattern

    Beak

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12)
    Do NOT stuff.  After completing Row 4, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto face. Lining the beak up with the bottom of the eyes, sew onto the face, sewing through both layers of the beak at once.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Wings (make 2)

    Round 1: Using main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6).
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12)

    After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.  Do NOT stuff.  Sew wings onto either side of the body, lining the top edge of the wing up with the bottom of the eyes and sewing through both layers of the wings at the same time.

    Blue Amigurumi Bird made with this free crochet bird pattern

    Feet (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12)
    After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew either side of the body. Do NOT stuff.  Sew the feet onto the bottom of your bird along Round 5 with 3 stitches in between them, sewing through both layers of the feet at the same time.

    Tail

    Round 1: Using main colour, CH 10.  SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SC 7, SC 4 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 7, SCINC in the last CH.  Do not join. (22)
    Round 2: SC in each st around (22)
    Round 3: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 10 (20)
    Round 4: SC around (20)
    Round 5: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18)
    Round 6: SC around (18)

    After completing Round 6, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the bottom part of the back of your bird.  Do NOT stuff.  Sewing through both layers of the tail, sew the tail onto the bottom of your bird along Round 4 of the body so the tail points out towards the center of the back of the body.

    Flower for Betty Bird

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  Join to first st with a SL ST. FO.
    Round 2:
    Change to Rouge, attaching it to the first ST of the previous round.CH 1.(HDC, DC, HDC) in the first st. *(SL ST, HDC, DC, HDC) in the next st.* Repeat instructions in ** 4 more times.  Join last st to first st with a SL ST. 

    FO and weave in ends.  Sew to the head of the bird.

    Two amigurumi birds being held i someone's hands.

    Hat for Bob Bird

    Round 1: Using Celestial, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 8: SC around (30)
    Round 9: (SCINC, SC 1) x 15 (45)
    Round 10: SL ST in each st around. (45)
    FO.  Using a long piece of Celestial yarn, sew the hat onto the top of the bird’s head, adding a bit of stuffing into the hat before closing it up.


    I hope you have enjoyed making your very own Bob and Betty bird using this free crochet bird pattern! While you’re here, check out some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Buttons the Bunny Crochet Bunny Pattern, Derek the Dinosaur, Carter the Carrot, Kaya Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Penny the Bunny Cactus. See all available patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: Subscribe to my YouTube channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Two Amigurumi Birds made with this free crochet bird pattern/>
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Koala Keychain Free Crochet Pattern

    Crochet koala keychain made with faux fur yarn being held in an open hand.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    Thank you so much to everyone for all the love you showed my first faux fur yarn project: Kaya Koala. So many people were excited to get started on making a crochet koala of their very own but some found using the faux fur yarn a bit intimidating. As a result, I started a YouTube channel and launched my very first YouTube Video sharing my top tips for working with faux fur yarn. I designed my Crochet Koala Keychain as a starter project for those that may be nervous about crocheting with faux fur yarn. It’s small and quick and helps you get the feel of what it’s like to create an amigurumi type project with faux fur yarn.

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    For my Crochet Koala Keychain project, I have used Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet (crochet.com) in the colour Kuma to create a mini crochet koala head to be used as a keychain. If you leave out the keychain attachments, you could even use it as a pompom on a child’s hat.

    The tools you’ll need to complete this project are 14 yards of faux fur yarn, a small amount of worsted weigh yarn in black, large eye tapestry needle, scissors, a pair of safety eyes, a small amount of polyester stuffing, a split ring and a keychain attachment. These whip up so quickly and are honestly, a little addictive to make. I was able to get 5 of these adorable little guys from one skein of yarn.

    If you’re nervous about working with fur yarns, check out my video below and get my tips for working with this kind of product.

    Crochet Koala Keychain – Free Crochet Pattern

    Crochet Koala Keychain made with faux fur yarn next to a yellow furls crochet hook and a cactus plant.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 2.5” tall


    Gauge: 

    • Not vital to project


    Notes:

    • The head is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.


    Check out the Video Tutorial for this Pattern:

    Pattern:

    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them. Add stuffing.
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole and sew on your split ring.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Sew the split ring to the top of the head.  Weave in ends.

    Crochet Koala Keychain and Amigurumi Koala next to crochet accessories
    My crochet koala keychain with the toy that inspired it: Kaya Koala – Which is also a free crochet pattern here on my blog.

    Nose:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in black and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

    Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Sew onto face and weave in ends.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Ears (Make two)


    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.

    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head.  Sew each ear onto either side of head and weave in ends.


    Finishing Touches


    The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see. 

    Attach Keychain to split ring and you’re all finished!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet koala keychain! If you liked this pattern you may enjoy some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Kaya Koala, Buttons The Bunny Free Crochet Along, Clawdia Cat, Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal and Penny the Bunny Cactus. You can find all my free crochet patterns listed HERE.

    Crochet Koala Keychain next to a yello crochet hook
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
    />
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Koala Free Pattern – Kaya the Koala

    Crochet Koala made with Fur Yarn being held in someone's hands.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    I have always wanted to design a crochet koala. They’re adorable, furry and just irresistable. I wanted my crochet koala to capture all of those loveable koala qualities and I hope you think that Kaya does. This crochet koala pattern is a relatively easy amigurumi pattern and it is the perfect cuddle size. Plus, this pattern can be made with one ball of Fable Fur yarn and a small amount of worsted weight black yarn.

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    Kaya the Koala is made using this lovely super bulky Fable Fur yarn I received from my friends at We Crochet (wecrochet.com). I used the colourway Kuma to make Kaya. This faux fur yarn has incredible dimension of colour and really helps bring Kaya to life. This was my first time using faux fur yarn and it exceeded absolutely every one of my expectations. We Crochet just knocked it out of the park with this yarn. It is insanely soft and because of the wide band on the back of the yarn, it is really easy to feel your stitches. Because of the fur, stitch visibility is practically zero but feeling the stitches makes it so much easier to work with. When you see the finished project, stitch visibility doesn’t even matter once you see the beautiful effect of the faux fur. I’ve had people ask me where I bought Kaya because they thought she was a store-bought stuffy. If that’s not a huge compliment, I don’t know what is!

    Fable Fur Yarn and crochet accessories coming out of a mustard tote from Wecrochet.com

    Kaya’s sweet little nose is made with a small amount of Brava Worsted yarn in black which is also from We Crochet. Brava Worsted is a worsted weight acrylic yarn and I used only a fraction of a Brava Worsted Mini Skein to create the nose. This yarn has great stitch definition and was also really enjoyable to use. I’ve started other designs using the Brava Worsted Mini Skeins because they are a great size for amigurumi projects and they come in some really great colours.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, check out my video below to get my top tips for working with faux fur yarn.

    Are you ready to get started on making your very own crochet koala? Let’s get started.

    Kaya the Koala – Crochet Koala Free Pattern

    Crochet Koala next to a ball of fable fur yarn and some crochet accessories

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished Size:  

    • Approximately 10” tall from top of head to bottom of feet.

    Gauge:  

    • 4 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches

    Notes:

    • All pieces are worked and sewed onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • All pieces (except the nose) are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join the ends of your rows.

    Head and Body:

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 9: SC around.(24) Place safety eyes in Row 6 with 4 sts between them.
    Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18)
    Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing each row.
    Round 11: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 12: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    Round 13: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 14: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Rounds 15 – 21: SC around. (18)
    Round 22: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 23: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO off, using your end to close up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    Crochet Koala made with this free pattern held in someone's hands

    Nose:

    Row 1: Using black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 3.  SC in 2nd CH from hook.  SC 1.  (2)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC) x 2. (4)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SCINC, SC 2, SCINC. (6)
    Rows 4 – 8: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (6)
    Row 9: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC (4)
    Row 10:  CH 1 and turn. (SCDEC) x 2. (2)
    Row 11: CH 1 and turn.  SC around the outside of the piece, putting a single SC in each st and the end of each row, placing 2 SCs in each of the four corners. Join last st to first st with a sl st.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto head.

    Sew nose onto head, between the eyes, adding a small amount of stuffing behind the nose so the nose protrudes off the face a bit. 

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Ears (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC around. (18)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Use the tail to sew the ears onto other side of the head. Weave in ends.

    Arms (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (8)
    Start stuffing, adding more as you work.
    Round 5: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 2 (6)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Use the tail to sew arms onto either side of the body near the “neck”.

    Crochet Koala next to a tea, scissors and a yellow furls crochet hook

    Legs (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8)
    Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (8)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Stuff the legs and sew onto either side of the bottom of the body.

    I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet koala! If you liked this pattern you may enjoy some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Buttons The Bunny Free Crochet Along, Clawdia Cat, Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal and Penny the Bunny Cactus. You can find all my free crochet patterns listed HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet koala!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
    www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest:
    www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    YouTube:
    Subscribe to my YouTube channel
    Newsletter:
    Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Pocket Scarf Pattern – Tweedy Pocket Scarf

    Woman wearing a colourful crochet pocket scarf with zippered pockets.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    This week I’m back with a free crochet pocket scarf pattern: The Tweedy Pocket Scarf. This is a beginner-friendly crochet pocket scarf pattern that uses a simple one row repeat to create a really pretty texture. This pattern is easily adjustable to any width or length and you can make the pockets as shallow or as deep as you’d like. I’ve included instructions for making adjustments to make this scarf your own below.

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    My favourite part of the Tweedy Pocket Scarf is the zippers. Pockets on scarves are great if you want to put your hands in them to keep them warm but honestly, they can sag a bit after use and they aren’t functional if you want to put anutyhing in them. Put your phone in your pocket and you bend over the the phone comes falling out. Gah! As a mom, I feel like I never have enough pockets so I thought I’d add zippers to my pockets so I can keep things in the pockets safely. These pockets are big enough that you could keep a sandwich in them… I’m not saying you should… just that you could lol. But I have definitely used my pockets to hold a skein of yarn and my hooks to crochet while out in public.

    Woman wearing a crochet scarf and crocheting with tools stored in the pockets.
    Putting my new crochet pocket scarf to good use. I have a mini skein of yarn in one pocket and a hook, scissors and tapestry needle in the other!

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    I’m using Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn to create my scarf. I did a yarn review of the Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn a little while ago and you can check it out HERE. With a yarn that has so much colour and personality, I wanted to find a stitch that would work with the yarn instead of against it. It is easy for complex stitch patterns to get lost in all that colour. I opted for a simple stitch and I think it was the perfect option for this yarn. It really shows off the beauty of the yarn.

    Adjusting this pattern

    This crochet pocket scarf pattern when made as written, will create a scarf that is 72″ in length. This length was used so the scarf can wrap around your neck once to keep you warm while keeping the pockets at a comfortable position to put your hands in. If you prefer a scarf that is a little longer or shorter, you can do that by either adding more rows to make it longer or choosing to crochet less rows to make it shorter. If you prefer a scarf that is more narrow, you can create a scarf of any width by chaining an even number of stitches and then following the instructions for the pattern (and ignoring the stitch count). If you do alter the width, please note that you should have an odd number of stitches when you complete each row. (i.e. if you CH 20, you should have 19 sts.  If you CH 36, you should have 35 sts each row.)

    Tweedy Pocket Scarf – Free Crochet Pocket Scarf Pattern

    Woman wearing a colourful crochet scarf in a snowy forest made with this free crochet scarf pattern

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • 72” Long by 9.25” wide

    Gauge:

    • 17 sts x 13 rows = 4 inches
    Woman wearing a crochet scarf and taking her phone out of the pocket. Scarf was made with this easy crochet scarf pattern.

    NOTES:

    • To resize this pattern: CH any even number of stitches.  If you do alter the width, please note that you should have an odd number of stitches when you complete each row. (i.e. if you CH 20, you should have 19 sts.  If you CH 36, you should have 35 sts each row.)
    • This pattern creates a scarf that is approximately 72” long and is made to be able to wrapped around your neck once while having the pockets at a comfortable height.  You can adjust the length to be longer or shorter by adding or omitting rows to reach your desired length.  Alternatively, you could crochet to the length the pattern gives and make deeper pockets by folding the bottoms of the scarf up higher than the measurement given in the pattern.

    Crochet Pocket Scarf Pattern

    CH 40.
    Row 1: SC in the 2nd chain from the hook. SC in each remaining CH across. (39)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. SC in the first st and each st across. (39)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn. (SC, DC) in the first st. *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next st*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 sts remain.  SK 1, SC in the last st. (39)
    Rows 4 – 273: Repeat Row 3 until scarf measures 84” long (or until desired length). 
    Rows 274 – 275: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first st and each st across.
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the pockets we’ll create.

    Close up image of the pockets on the Tweedy Scarf with furls crochet hooks sticking out of the pocket.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    With the right side facing you, fold the bottom edge of each side of the scarf up approximately 6.5”.  Pin the edges in place along the sides and using the long tail, sew up one of the side seams.  Using a length of yarn, sew up the other side seam to finish creating your pocket. Repeat on the second pocket.

    Pin your zipper into place on either side of the top of the pocket and using your sewing needle and thread, sew the zipper into place. Repeat on the second pocket.

    If you liked this free crochet pocket scarf pattern, you may like these other free crochet patterns: Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf Pattern, Super Quick Chunky Cowl, Crochet Tartan Cowl, The Ava Cowl.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.    Using and/or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Collage of images of a woman wearing a crochet pocket scarf
  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Mittens Pattern – Norse Crochet Mittens

    Two Norse Crochet Mittens on top of eachother next to a ball of Patons Norse yarn with a  crochet hook in it.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Looking for a quick and easy crochet mittens pattern? These Norse Crochet Mittens use a simple stitch pattern and super bulky weight yarn so they work up in a flash. They are great pattern for experienced beginners wanting to make their first pair of crochet mittens or for those that just want a quick and simple crochet project to work on while watching their favourite movie. Regardless of your motivation for making them, these crochet mittens will be a cozy addition to any winter wardobe.

    Pin it for later Save

    This crochet mittens pattern was designed using Patons Norse yarn. This yarn is a blended yarn comprised of 54% arcylic, 28% wool and 18% polyester. It has a brushed halo effect which gives these crochet mittens their fuzzy appearance. The halo does make seeing the stitches a bit more difficult than normal but they aren’t impossible to see and you can definitely feel the stitches. This pattern uses only a single ball of Patons Norse Yarn!

    Up close view of the Norse Crochet Mittens being worn and holding a mug.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    The Norse Crochet Mittens are worked from the top-down (fingertips to wrist) in joined rounds. Because of the halo effect of the yarn, I recommend utilizing a stitch marker to mark the beginning of every round even though you won’t be working in a continuous spiral. After working the top of the mitten to the knuckles, we’ll add on the opening for the thumb. Then we’ll work some shaping to taper the mitten to the wrist and then the ribbed cuff is added.

    After completing the body of the mitten, the thumb is added. This is done by attaching your yarn to the opening we created for the mitten and crocheting around that hole. The thumb is worked from the base up with some basic tapering worked up to the tip. Then the tip of the thumb is sewn closed and the ends are woven in. That’s it! Ready to get started making your own Norse Crochet Mittens?

    Woman covering lower part of face with newly crocheted mittens.

    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase
    • HDCDEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet
    • BPDC = Back Post Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished Size:

    • Approximately 9.5” long from top of mitten to bottom of ribbing
    • Approximately 4” wide across top of mitten
    • Approximately 4.5” wide at widest point of mitten

    Gauge:

    • 6 sts x 5 rows = 2 inches

    Notes:

    • This project is written using U.S. terminology
    • This project is worked in the round and the end of each round is joined to the first stitch of the round using a slip stitch. I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the beginning of every round.

    Norse Crochet Mittens – Free Crochet Mittens Pattern

    Mittens made with this free crochet mitten pattern, layed flat on either side of a mug filled with tea.

    Mittens (make two)

    Row 1: Make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join with sl st. (8)
    Row 2: CH 1. HDCINC in each stitch around. Join with sl st. (16)
    Row 3: CH 1.  (HDC in the first stitch, HDCINC in the next stitch) repeat 7 more times.  Join with a sl st. (24)
    Rows 4 -14: CH 1.  HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around (24)
    Row 15: CH 1. HDC in the first stitch.  CH 6, Skip 2 sts.  HDC in the next 21 sts.  Join with a sl st. (22 sts and 6 CHs)
    Row 16: CH 1. HDC in the first stitch.  HDC 6 in the CH space.  HDC in the next 21 sts.  Join with a sl st. (28)
    Rows 17 – 18: CH 1.  HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (28)
    Row 19: CH 1.  HDC in the first 2 sts, HDCDEC in the next stitch, HDC in the next 3 stitches, HDCDEC, HDC in the last 19 stitches. (26)

    Row 20: CH 1. HDC in the first 4 sts, HDCDEC 2 times, HDC in the next 8 sts, HDCDEC 2 times, HDC in the last 6 sts. (22)
    Row 21: CH 2 (counts as first stitch). DC in the 2nd stitch each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (22)
    Rows 22 – 23: CH 1.  (FPDC around the first st, BPDC around the next st) repeat instructions in the () around. (22)
    Row 24: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each stitch around. (22)
    FO and weave in ends.


    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Girl wearing blue Norse Mittens and Juneau Blues beanie while holding a coffee mug

    If you’re looking for the pattern for the hat I’m wearing in this picture, it can be found here: The Juneau Blues Beanie.

    Thumb

    Row 1: Attach your yarn to the thumb hole.  CH 1 and HDC 12 evenly around the thumb hole. Join with a sl st. (12)
    Row 2: CH 1. HDC in the first st and each st around. Join with a sl st. (12)
    Row 3: CH 1. HDC in the first 3 sts, HDCDEC, HDC in the next 3 sts, HDCDEC, HDC in the last 2 sts. Join with a sl st. (10)
    Rows 4 – 5: CH 1. HDC in the first st and each st around. Join with a sl st. (10)
    Row 6: CH 1. HDC in the first 2 sts, HDCDEC, HDC in the next 2 sts, HDCDEC, HDC in the last 2 sts. Join with a sl st. (8)
    Row 7: CH 1. HDCDEC 4 times.  Join with a sl st. (4)
    FO and sew hole shut.  Weave in ends.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet mittens!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet mittens pattern. While you’re here check out some of my other free crochet patterns: The Aeipathy Beanie, The Catena Hat, The Heather Super Scarf and The Crochet Tartan Cowl and Beanie.

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part 3

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free bunny crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Please note that this is Part Three of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Two we will be crocheting Buttons’ body/torso and arms.

    • Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
    • Part Two which gives instructions to make the Torso and Arms can be found HERE.
    • The next Live Wednesdays will be at 7PM EST on January 29th in The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.


    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Abbreviations:

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Buttons the Bunny Pattern:

    Legs (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 20: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 21: (SC2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the leg hole closed and sew onto the bottom of the body on either side of the center.

    Buttons the Crochet Bunny Wearing a Sweater

    Tail


    Row 1: Using White yarn and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 9: SC around (30) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 10: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Row 11: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 12: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 13: SCDEC x 6 (6)

    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto the bum of the bunny.  Place the tail in a place where the tail will assist the bunny in sitting upright. I like to sew my tail on after the sweater has been completed and put on Buttons so I can ensure that my placement doesn’t interfere with the sweater in anyway.

    Back View os Buttons the Bunny - Free Easter Crochet Project

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Sweater

    Using 4.0mm hook and Burgundy, CH 21
    Row 1: HDC in the 3rd CH from the hook (counts as first HDC). HDC, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 3, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC, CH 2, HDC) in the next CH, HDC 3, (HDC, CH 2, HDC), HDC 2. (23 HDCs and 4 CH spaces)
    Row 2: CH 2, Turn.  HDC 3, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 7, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH, HDC 3. (39 HDCs and 4 CH spaces)

    Burgundy Sweater made for Crochet Easter Bunny


    Row 3: CH 2 and turn.  HDC 5, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH, HDC 9, (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC2) in the next CH space, HDC 11 (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH space, HDC 9 (HDC 2, CH 2, HDC 2) in the next CH space, HDC 5 (55 HDC, 4 CH spaces)
    Row 4: CH 2 and turn.  HDC 7, HDC 1 in CH space. SKIP 13 HDC and HDC in the next CH space. HDC 15, HDC 1 in the CH SP. SKIP 13, HDC in the next CH space. HDC 7. (33)
    Rows 5 – 8: CH 2 and turn. HDC across.  FO. (33)
    With the right side facing you, attach the yarn with a SL ST to any stitch on the bottom row of the back of the sweater. CH 1 and SC in the same stitch.  SC around the edge of the sweater (not the sleeves), putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and 3 SCs in each corner. Join your last st to your first stitch with a sl st.  FO and weave in ends.

    Sleeves

    Row 1: Turn the sweater inside out so the wrong side of the sweater is facing you.  Attach your yarn to the stitch closest to the underarm.  CH 2 and HDC in the same stitch.  HDC 16.  Join your first stitch to your last stitch with a sl st.  (16)
    Rows 2 – 3: CH 2 and turn.  HDC around.  Join to first stitch with a sl st. (16)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC around.  Join to first stitch with a sl st. (16).
    FO and weave in ends. 
    Repeat Rows 1 to 4 on second sleeve.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway. I hope you have enjoyed making your very own Buttons the Bunny. Thanks for crocheting along with us!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part Two

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free bunny crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Please note that this is Part Two of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Three we will be crocheting Buttons’ Legs, Tail and Sweater.

    • Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
    • Part Three which gives instructions to make the Legs, Tail and Sweater can be found HERE.
    • The next Live Wednesdays will be at 7PM EST on January 22nd and 29th in The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Facebook Group.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.

    Clover Squad Box available to win by Participants of the Bunny Crochet Along

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Pattern:

    Body

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Row 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Row 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Row 8: SC3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rows 9 – 18: SC around (48)
    Row 19: SC3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3(42)
    Row 20: SC around (42) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 21: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Row 22: SC around (36)
    Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30)
    Row 24: SC around (30)
    Row 25: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Row 26: SC around (24)
    Row 27: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Row 28: SC around (18)

    FO leaving a long tail to sew the body onto the head.  Sew body onto head.  Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head.  Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.

    Brown Bunny made with this Free Bunny Crochet Pattern

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Arms (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16)
    Rows 4 – 18: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round.
    Row 19: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4 (12)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the body.  Mine are placed approximately 4 rows down from the top of the body.

    Close up of Crochet Bunny Arm

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along – Part One

    Buttons the Bunny sitting next to a skein of Bernat Premium yarn which is used in this free crochet along pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.

    Welcome to the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along! Buttons the Bunny is a sweet little amigurumi bunny that my daughter named Buttons. Ironically, Buttons doesn’t have any actual buttons in his pattern but since this was the first thing she hasn’t named Booba or Mister Happy Face, I didn’t have the heart to change his name.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress. There’s also a giveaway sponsored by Clover USA for participants of the CAL so keep reading to learn more.

    The free crochet pattern for Buttons the Bunny has been split into three parts to make creating him a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Live Wednesdays

    For those of you that will be tuning in to the live discussions on Wednesdays during the CAL they will be happening at 7:30PM EST on January 15th, 22nd and 29th.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Giveaway

    Clover USA has generously offered to sponsor a giveaway for the participants of the CAL! One lucky participant will win a Clover Squad Box full of Clover tools and goodies!

    During the crochet along, share your pictures of your progress and finished bunny, tagging me (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB), using #theloopylambCAL. Each photo shared (must be different pictures) will be an entry into the giveaway. Don’t forget to tag us so we can make sure we see them. The giveaway is open to U.S. residents only. Must be 18 years or older to win. This giveaway is not affiliated with Facebook in any way. Giveaway will close Friday February 7th at midnight EST. A winner will be announced Monday, February 10th.

    Clover Squad box of goodies up for grabs for crochet along participants.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Side view of Buttons the Bunny made with the free crochet along pattern.

    Abbreviations:

    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs

    Gauge:

    • Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
    • Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square

    NOTES:

    • All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
    • The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method.  The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater.  Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.

    Pattern:

    Head:

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SCINC) X 6 (12)
    Row 3: (SC1, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Row 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC2, SCINC) X 5, SC1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) X 6 (30)
    Rows 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Row 8: SC2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) X5, SC2 (36)
    Row 9: SC around (36)
    Row 10: (SC5, SCINC) X 6 (42)
    Row 11: SC3, SCINC (SC6, SCINC) X 5, SC3 (48) – **Place safety eyes in stitches 27 and 44 of Row 11

    To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face.  As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.

    Rows 12 – 16: SC around (48)
    Row 17: (SC7, SCINC) X 6 (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row.
    Row 18: SC around (54)
    Row 19: (SC7, SCDEC) X 6 (48)
    Row 20: SC around (48)
    Row 21: SC3, SCDEC (SC6, SCDEC) X 5, SC3 (42)
    Row 22: (SC5, SCDEC) X 6 (36)
    Row 23: SC2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) X5, SC2 (30)

    Now we’re going to indent the face.  Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye.  Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn).  Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like.  You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent.  Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together.  It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension.  Make sure the knot is secure.  Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.

    Buttons the Bunny Amigurumi Crochet Along diagram to show how to do facial indentation.



    Row 24:
    (SC3, SCDEC) X 6 (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row.
    Row 25: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC2, SCDEC) X 5, SC1 (18)
    Row 26: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO and weave in ends.

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    Embroidering the Nose

    Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC.  Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape.  Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose.  FO and hide your ends inside the head.

    close up image of Buttons the Bunny's face to show placement of embroidery stitches.



    Ears (make 2)

    Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6)
    Row 2: (SC2, SCINC) x 2 (8)
    Row 3: SC around (8)
    Row 4: (SCINC, SC3) x 2 (10)
    Row 5: SC around (10)
    Row 6: (SCINC, SC1) x 5 (15)
    Row 7: SC around (15)
    Row 8: (SC2, SCINC) x 5 (20)
    Rows 9 – 16: SC around (20)
    Row 17: (SC2, SCDEC) x 5 (15)
    Row 18: SC around (15)
    Row 19: (SC1, SCDEC) x 5 (10)
    Row 20: SC around (10)

    FO leaving an extra-long tail to sew onto head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright.  After I complete one pass through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation.  You can add pipe cleaners to the ears if you’d prefer to help them stand up but I do not recommend giving it to children if they are used.

    If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished bunnies!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
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  • Crochet Patterns

    Juneau Blues Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern

    Woman wearing a blue hat made with this free crochet pattern by The Loopy Lamb
    The yarn for this free crochet hat pattern was provided by Hobbii.com. This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I’m back this week with a new free crochet hat pattern – The Juneau Blues Beanie. This is a fitted beanie that alternates between a knit look stitch with a post stitch overlay to create a brick-like texture. I had a difficult time coming up with a name for this pattern and decided to name it after the colourway that inspired it. This is an intermediate level crochet pattern. There are some special stitches used to create this effect so please be sure to read the “special stitches” section of the pattern before jumping in.

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    The Juneau Blues Beanie is made with a self-striping yarn that was generously provided by my friends at Hobbii.com. The yarn is called Hobbii Lollipop and the colour I used is called Juneau. Hobbii Lollipop is a worsted weight, 80% Acrylic/ 20% wool blend yarn that comes in a variety of fun, self-striping colours. Blue being my favourite colour, I was instantly drawn to the Juneau colourway. One 200g ball of Hobbii Lollipop comes with 383 yards/350m of yarn. The yarn is machine washable but Hobbii recommends laying it flat to dry.

    Juneau Blues Beanie (made with this free crochet hat pattern), laid flat next to a crochet hook and scissors.

    As I like to do with self striping yarn, I deconstructed the ball of yarn into it’s separate colours to have more control over the colour changes. This is an optional step for this pattern as it does result in extra ends to weave in. You can let the colour changes happen naturally from the ball however, the colours changes may happen mid-row. If you’re ok with that, then go for it.

    One of the special stitches that I used in the Juneau Blues Beanie I called the Half Double Crochet in the third loop (of a Treble Crochet Stitch). I could not find any reference to this technique elsewhere so if anyone knows of this technique (and any official name) please let me know. This stitch is similar to completing a HDC in the third loop except that the “third loop” refers to the loop at the back of the stitch that was created by the last yarn over in a treble crochet. It is directly below the back loop of the stitch. To make it simple, think of it like a half double crochet stitch and put your hook under the loop that you would when working a stitch into the third loop of a half double crochet stitch.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    If you’re making a Juneau Blues Beanie and sharing it on social media, I’d love it if you tagged me or used #theloopylamb so I can see all of your beautiful makes. If you’re looking for another free crochet hat pattern, check out the bottom of this post for some suggestions or click HERE to see all the free patterns available on my site.

    Juneau Blues Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern

    Woman wearing beanie made with this free crochet pattern, holding a mug.
    Like the mittens? They’re a free pattern on my site too! Get the link at the bottom of this page.

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Terminology: U.S. Terminology

    Abbreviations:


    Special Stitches:

    Half Double Crochet in the third loop (of a Half Double Crochet Stitch)/Camel Stitch:  Yarn over and insert your hook into the third loop on the back of the indicated HDC stitch.  Yarn over, pull up a loop.  Three loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all three loops.  Stitch completed. 

    Half Double Crochet in the third loop (of a Treble Crochet Stitch):  Yarn over and insert your hook into the third loop (the last wrap on your post stitch) on the back of the indicated treble crochet stitch.  Yarn over, pull up a loop.  Three loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all three loops.  Stitch completed. To make it simple, think of it like a half double crochet stitch and put your hook under the loop that you would when working a stitch into the third loop of a half double crochet stitch.

    Single Crochet in the third loop (of a Half Double Crochet Stitch): Insert hook into the third loop of the indicated stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  Two loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.  Stitch completed.


    Finished Size:  

    • 8.5” tall by 10” wide when laid flat.

    Gauge:

    • 15 sts x 13 rows = 4 inches


    NOTES:

    • For this pattern, in order to maintain clean colour changes, I deconstructed my Hobbii yarn cake and made little bobbins of each colour. This is an optional step.  If you don’t want to deal with weaving in the extra ends, you can continue as the yarn comes out of the cake.
    • Tip for cleaner seam: On the camel stitch rows, when joining at the end of the round, rather than completing my sl st the normal way, I take my hook out of the working loop and insert it from back to front of the first stitch of that round.  I then pull the working loop from the front of the hat to the inside of the hat and pull it taught.  Then I do the appropriate number of chains needed and crochet as normal.
    • CH 2s at the beginning of a row do not count as a stitch.
    • Where “Join” is indicated, join the end of your row to the beginning of your row with a sl st.
    Close up of the texture of the Juneau Blues Beanie
    Close up of the Juneau Blues Beanie texture, made with this free crochet hat pattern.

    Band 

    Using 5.0mm hook, CH 7. 
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC 4.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 2:  SC in same st.  SC 4 in BLO.  SC in last st, under both loops.  Ch 1 and turn. (6)

    Repeat row two until your band is approximately 18.5” long when slightly stretched.  You can make the band a little shorter or longer than that as needed.  Generally, a good length for a band for an adult is between 18” – 19” long when laid flat and slightly stretched.  When completed, fold the band in half and sl st the two sides together.  Turn the piece so the seam is on the inside and the right side is facing you.

    Hat Body: 

    Using 5.5mm hook
    Row 1:
    CH 1.  SC 72 evenly around the top of the band.  Join. (72)
    Row 2: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Row 3: CH 2.  HDC in the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Rows 4 – 6: CH 2.  HDC in the third loop of the first st and in each st around.  Join. (72)
    Row 7: CH 1. TR in the first st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 7th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 13th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 19th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 25th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 31st st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 37th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 43rd st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 49th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 55th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 61st st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 67th st of Row 3.  HDC in the third loop of the last 5 sts. Join. (72)
    Row 8: CH 1.  SC in the third loop of the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Row 9: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each st around. Join. (72)
    Row 10: CH 2.  HDC in the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)
    Rows 11 – 13: CH 2.  HDC in the third loop of the first st and each st around.  Join. (72)

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Row 14: CH 1. TR in the first st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 7th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 13th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 19th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. TR in the 25th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 31st st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 37th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 43rd st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 49th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 55th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 61st st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts.  TR in the 67th st of Row 10.  HDC in the third loop of the next 5 sts. Join. (72)

    Juneau Blues Beanie laid flat next to a furls crochet hook.


    Row 15: CH 1.  SC in the third loop of the first st and each st around. Join. (72)
    Row 16: CH 1.  SC in the first st and each st across (72)
    Row 17: CH 2.  HDC in the first 5 sts, HDCDEC, (HDC 10, HDCDEC in the next) x 5, HDC in the last 5 sts. Join. (66)
    Row 18: CH 2.  In the third loop, (HDC in the first 9 sts, HDCDEC) x 6.  Join. (60)
    Row 19: CH 2.  In the third loop, HDC in the first 4 sts, HDCDEC, (HDC in the next 8 sts, HDCDEC) x 5, HDC in the last 4 sts.  Join. (54)
    Row 20: CH 2.  In the third loop, (HDC in the first 7 sts, HDCDEC) x 6. Join. (48)
    Row 21: CH 1. TR in the first st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 2 sts, HDCDEC, HDC. TR in the 7th st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 13th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 2.  TR in the 19th st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 25th st of Row 17.  In the third loop HDCDEC, HDC 1.  TR in the 31st st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 37th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 2.  TR in the 43rd st of Row 17.  HDC in the third loop of the next 3 sts.  TR in the 49th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 2.  TR in the 55th st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDCDEC, HDC 1.  TR in the 61st st of Row 17.  In the third loop, HDC, HDCDEC.  Join. (42)
    Row 22: CH 1.  In third loop, (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6.  Join. (36)
    Row 23: CH 1.  SC in the first 2 sts, SCDEC.  (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC in the last 2 sts.  Join. (30)
    Row 24: CH 2.  (HDC 3, HDCDEC) x 6.  Join. (24)
    Row 25: CH 2.  In the third loop, HDC 1, HDCDEC, (HDC 2, HDCDEC) x 5, HDC in the last st.  Join. (18)
    Row 26: CH 1.  (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6.  Join. (12)
    Row 27: CH 1.  (SCDEC) x 6.  Join. (6)
    FO and weave in ends.  If using a pompom, secure to the top of the hat.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Looking for another free crochet hat pattern? Check out some of my other free crochet hat patterns here: Arctic Gem Beanie, Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat, Crochet Tartan Beanie, The Aeipathy Beanie.

    Looking for the mittens in the picture above? Check out the pattern: Norse Crochet Mittens.

  • Crochet Patterns

    The Heather Super Scarf – Free Crochet Scarf Pattern

    Woman wearing a yellow crochet scarf made with this free crochet scarf pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post and all opinions are my own.
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    Looking for a beginner’s scarf pattern or a crochet scarf pattern that works up quickly? Then the Heather Super Scarf is for you! This free crochet scarf pattern is made with super bulky yarn and a big crochet hook so you will be wearing it in no time. It is so warm and cozy, you won’t be worried about getting cold this winter wearing this scarf.

    The Heather Super Scarf is an execellent crochet scarf pattern for beginners or for crocheting while you’re binge-watching your favouriteT.V. shows. This scarf pattern has a simple two row repeat that doesn’t require any counting. The bulky yarn helps define the texture, makes amazing chunky tassels and keeps you super warm.

    Pin it for later Save

    Special thanks to my beautiful cousin Heather for modelling this scarf for me. Doesn’t she look gorgeous in this scarf? She enjoyed the scarf so much that she ended up taking it home with her.

    Ready to get started making your own Heather Super Scarf?

    Woman facing away from the camera holding the Heather Super Scarf out behind her with her outstretched arms.

    Skill Level: Beginner

    Supplies:

    Woman with face partially concealed by scarf made with this free crochet scarf pattern.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Woman looking off-screen wearing the Heather Super Scarf in mustard


    Finished size:

    • 10” Wide by 84” Long (not including tassels)

    Gauge:

    • 8 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES:

    • This pattern uses U.S. Terminology
    • The CH 1 at the beginning of each even numbered row counts as a slip stitch.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Woman smiling and throwing leave in the air wearing the Heather Super Scarf

    Crochet Scarf Pattern:

    CH 21.
    Row 1: DC in the 4th CH from the hook and each CH across. Turn. (19)
    Row 2: CH 1 (counts as a SL ST), DC in the 2nd st, *SL ST in the next st, DC in the next st*. Repeat instructions in ** until end of row. Turn. (19)
    Row 3: CH 3 (counts as first st. DC in 2nd stitch and each stitch across. Turn.
    Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until scarf measures 84” long.
    FO and weave in ends.

    Woman looking off-screen wearing a crochet scarf

    Tassels: (make 4)

    Wrap the yarn around a piece of cardboard 6” wide approximately 20 times.  Tie the top of the tassel with another piece of yarn to secure it (ensuring that it is long enough to attach it to the scarf.  I used an 8” piece). Cut one side of the yarn that’s wrapped around the cardboard and remove the yarn from the cardboard.  Take another length of yarn and wrap it around the top of the tassel 8 to 10 times tightly.  Tie a knot and bury the end inside the tassel.   Trim the tassel ends evenly.  Attach a tassel to each corner of the scarf securely.

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet scarf pattern. Looking for another quick crochet scarf pattern? Check out my Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf and Tweedy Pocket Scarf. Here are some other quick crochet patterns using chunky yarn you’ll want to check out while you’re here: Super Quick and Chunky Cowl, Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket and, The Bobblelicious Bag.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet scarves!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!