• Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll with Clothes: My Dolly Molly – Part 3

    Crochet doll with clothes next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3

    My Dolly Molly Crochet doll with some furls crochet hooks and yarn.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back view of the crochet doll with clothes made with this free crochet pattern

    Pattern

    Hair

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45)
    Round 9: SC around (45)
    Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains.  SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail.  Weave in ends.

    NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH.  To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand.  For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – Part 2

    Crochet doll  next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a crochet doll free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    • Part One: Body
    • Part Two: Arms, Embroidery and Dress
    • Part Three: Hair

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    My Dolly Molly with a furls crochet hook and some yarn, made with this crochet doll free pattern.

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Adding Eyelashes

    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Close up of doll's face with arrows indicating where to place needle when embroidering eyelashes.
    completed eyelashes on crochet doll


    Nose

    Take a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches.  Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly.  FO and weave in end.

    Close up of the crochet doll nose on My Dolly Molly

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.



    Arms (make two)

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go.
    Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9)
    Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11)
    Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.

    Molly the Dolly an her dress made with this crochet doll free pattern



    Dress

    Using Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37
    Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST and CH across (32)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36)
    Row 7: CH 6 and turn.  SC in each ST across (36)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40)
    Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. (40)

    Amigurumi doll dress for this crochet doll free pattern


    Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40)
    Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60)
    Row 16: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  (80)
    Row 17: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (100)
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (120)
    FO and weave in ends.  The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress.  Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7.  Put dress on doll and fasten.

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Crochet doll made with this amigurumi doll pattern with a text overlay indicating this is a free crochet pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my amigurumi doll pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This amigurumi doll pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part One of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The free crochet doll pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Back of the amigurumi doll pattern showing the fastening of the doll's dress.

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Amigurumi Doll Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Leg 1

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.

    Place a stitch marker into the 3rd ST of the last round of the leg.  FO but do not weave in your end.

    Leg 2

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.


    Do NOT FO.  We will continue onto the body now.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Picture of the completed amigurumi doll body without it's hair and dress.

    Body

    Round 1: Working into the top of the 2nd leg, SC 8, CH 1, SC into the 3rd ST of the last round of the first leg.  SC 11 around the first leg, CH 1 and SC in the last 4 STs of the 2nd leg. (26)
    Pull the end from finishing off the first leg through the hole between the two legs and use it to sew up the hole.
    Round 2:  SC in each ST around (26)
    Round 3: SC 7, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 4 (29)
    Round 4: SC around (29)
    Round 5: SC 7, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 15 (32)
    Rounds 6 – 9: SC around (32)
    Round 10: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 2 (28)
    Round 11: SC around (28)
    Round 12: SC 11, SCDEC, SC 15 (27)
    Round 13: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 7 (25) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 14: SC around (25)
    Round 15: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 6 (23)
    Round 16: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 7 (21)

    Round 17: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 5 (19)
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 4 (17)
    Round 19: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 3 (15)
    Round 20: SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC, SC 2 (12)
    Round 21: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Round 23: SC, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 24: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 25: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 26: SC around (36)
    Round 27: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Rounds 28 – 29: SC around (42)
    Round 30: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 31 – 32: SC around (48)
    Round 33: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) – Place safety eyes in Round 33 with 7 sts in between them
    Rounds 34 – 35: SC around (42)
    Round 36: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 37:  SC around (36)
    Round 38: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5,  SC 2 (30)
    Round 39: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 40: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Round 41: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 42: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and weave in ends. 

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I realized a little while ago that I haven’t published a free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket yet but I’ve had the idea for this blanket kicking around in my head for some time. I decided to finally make the idea a reality and I’m thrilled with how it turned out. This is my first corner to corner blanket design and I really enjoyed creating the chart and trying out different techniques to find which C2C technique that I preferred.

    I always struggle with naming my projects and this C2C blanket was no exception. After a lot of thought, I just couldn’t come up with anything fitting. I kept coming back to thinking of Greece (one of my top dream destinations to travel to) because the combination of blue and white always seems to remind me of Greece. Growing up I had always been fascinated by Greek mythology and while was finishing my blanket I saw one of my greek mythology texts on the shelf and considered getting it back out and revisiting a few favourites. Then I looked down at my blanket and thought “it’s all Greek to Me” and decided that would be it’s name. I figured it was fitting since I just couldn’t get away from thoughts of Greece everytime I see the colour combo. And that’s how I came up with the name for this C2C blanket pattern. Not the most scientific or artistic process but it works for me lol.

    close up image of the texture on this Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    If you’re new to corner to corner crochet check out my tutorials to learn the basics you’ll need to know in order to do this pattern.



    Corner to Corner Basics: How to Crochet Corner to Corner




    Changing Colours in Corner to Corner

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.



    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology
    Woman holding a navy blue and white C2C blanket across her shoulders

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or the links in the supplies list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • WS = Wrong Side
    • RS = Right Side
    • FO = Finish Off
    Blue and White Corner to Corner Blanket Made with the It's All Greek to Me C2C Pattern


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 44” Long by 34” wide

    Gauge:

    • 9 squares x 9 squares = 5 inches


    NOTES:

    • To work this corner to corner (C2C) graph, begin with the box/tile in the bottom right corner of the graph.  That will be your Row 1. The graph will be read from left to right and then right to left.
    • Each box/tile in the graph corresponds to with one C2C cluster in your row.  A C2C cluster = CH 2 + 3 DC sts.
    • I recommend crossing off each row in the pattern or graph as you complete it to assist you in keeping track.
    • WS and RS are labelled next to each row number on the ad-free PDF version of this pattern to indicate whether you are working with the WS or RS facing you. The arrows indicate in which direction you are working.

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket: It’s All Greek to Me C2C Blanket

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket - Graph

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket! While you’re here, check out some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket, Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket, Mad About Boo Pillow, Otis the Owl, Salty the Seal. Find all my free crochet patterns HERE.

  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal

    This free crochet seal pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    This week I want to share my free crochet seal pattern for my new little friend Salty the Seal and her baby seal pups. Salty the Seal is a sweet and cuddly seal with big beautiful eyes that is curious and loves to go on adventures with her baby seals. Salty and her baby seals have been a big hit with my kids so far and I think you’ll enjoy them too. I’ve designed this crochet seal pattern to minimize the amount of sewing needed. I know that sewing on parts is usually something that deters people from making amigurumi toys and I wanted to create something that required very little sewing.

    Pin it for later Save

    close up image of the face of the amigurumi seal made with this free pattern

    Salty is made with Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet. I absolutely love, love, LOVE creating amigurumi patterns with this faux fur yarn. It was seriously love at first squeeze. I have been so inspired by this yarn that I can’t stop making amigurumi projects with it. I’ve already published some of the free amigurumi projects that I’ve created using faux fur yarn and I have more to come. If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here: Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth and Otis the Owl.

    As I mentioned earlier, this crochet seal pattern is designed to minimize the sewing. Salty is worked from the head to the tail in one piece. You’ll start by creating the head, then the body and the tail as a single piece and seaming the tail closed. Then you’ll create each of Salty’s fins working in rows and those will be the only pieces that you’ll sew onto this project. Combine the minimal sewing with the fact that the Fable Fur yarn is a bulky weight yarn, this crochet seal pattern is a really quick make.

    The baby seals are made using the same pattern but instead of the 5.5mm hook with the Fable Fur yarn, you’ll be using a 3.5mm crochet hook and Brava Worsted yarn. The safety eyes and nose needed for the babies are signifcantly smaller than those used for Salty. You’ll need 10mm eyes and a 8mm safety nose for each baby seal.

    crochet baby seals held in someone's hands

    Salty the Seal measures approximately 10 inches tall. She is a great cuddle-sized toy for little ones. However, please note that if you’re giving an amigurumi toy with safety eyes in it to a little person, please be aware that the safety eyes can be a choking hazard for little ones that may put them in their mouth. The baby seals measure approximately 4.5 inches tall.

    I love the safety eyes that I used in this crochet seal pattern. I used 24mm glitter safety eyes that I got from a local maker that has an Etsy shop called Chateau Bornais Crochet. I had been struggling to find safety eyes that looked a specific way and I just couldn’t find them anywhere. I sent a message to Rebekah from Chateau Bornais Crochet and not only did she have EXACTLY what I was looking for, she helped me get the exact colour I wanted as well. Since then, I’ve used her safety eyes in a few of my other amigurumi patterns (that will be releasing soon) and they have been fabulous. You can check out her Etsy shop HERE.

    The tools I used in this project were generously supplied by Clover USA. I used their Clover Amour Crochet hooks, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle, Locking Stitch Markers and Patchwork Mini Scissors. All of these tools have become part of my go-to toolbox. All of these tools are really great quality and enjoyable to use. Locking stitch markers are an absolute necessity (in my opinion) when making amigurumi and these stitch markers never disappoint. I never realized what a game changer a bent tip tapestry needle could be until I tried them. If you do amigurumi projects regularly, then I definitely recommend checking them out.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn or if you’re nervous about trying it, check out my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn. You can read that post HERE or you can check out the video version below.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Free Crochet Seal Pattern Below:

    Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal

    Grey seal with large blue eyes made with this free crochet seal pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this crochet seal pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies for Salty the Seal:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Supplies for the Baby Seals:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished size:

    • Salty is approximately 10” Long by 7.5” wide (fin tip to fin tip)
    • Baby seals are approximately 4.5” long by 3” wide (fin tip to fin tip)

    Gauge:

    • Salty: 5 sts x 5 rows = 2 inches
    • Baby seals: 5 sts x 5.5 rows = 1 inch

    NOTES:

    • Salty the Seal is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
    • The head, body and tail fin are all working in the round and in a single piece.  The fins are worked in rows and then sewn onto either side of the body.
    • This project is worked in continuous rounds (except the fins).  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.
    • To make Salty the Seal: Follow the instructions using the Fable Fur Yarn and the 5.5mm hook. 
    • To make the Baby Seals: Follow the instructions using the Brava Worsted yarn and a 3.5mm hook.
    • Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.


    Head and Body

    Round 1: Make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
    Rounds 6 – 10: SC around. (30) – Insert eyes in stitches 3 and 8 of Round 6.  Insert safety nose in stitch 6 of Round 8, centered between the eyes.  I recommend placing stitch markers in these spots until you are able to attach the safety eyes.
    Round: 11: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24) – Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more after every row or two.
    Round: 12: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)
    Round 13: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)
    Round 14: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    Round 15: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 16: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18) – Continue to add stuffing every couple of rows, adding extra in the neck area for added support of the head.

    a large furry crochet seal and two baby amigurumi seals laying together on a blanket.


    Round 17: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Rounds 18 – 20: SC around. (24)
    Round 21: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6. (18)
    Round 22: SC around. (18)
    Round 23: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12)
    Round 24: SC around. (12)
    Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    Round 26: (SCINC) x 2, SC, (SCINC) X 2, SC. (10)
    Round 27: SC, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 3. (14)
    Round 28: SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 5, (SCINC) x 2, SC 3. (18)
    Rounds 29 -31: SC around. (18)
    Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Finish stuffing the body but do not add any stuffing to the tail portion of the body.  Hold the two long sides of the tail fin together and sew the hole closed using a tapestry needle. 

    Fins (make 2)

    Row 1: CH 7.  SC in 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC. CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 3: SC across. CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 4: (SCDEC) x 2. CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 5: SC across. (2)
    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the body, just below the neck.

    Finishing Touches for Salty the Seal

    The fur may cover up the eyes and nose a bit so use your fingers to smooth the fur away from the eyes and nose. Use a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face to clean up any fur that may overlap the nose and eyes.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Salty the Seal made with this free crochet seal pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern: Spring Breeze Shawlette

    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    This week I decided to step outside of patterns I’m most comfortable making and bring you this crochet shawlette free pattern for my Spring Breeze Shawlette. This is my first shawlette design and I’m so excited to share it with you. It’s a quick and easy make that uses just one skein of Loops and Thread Cotton Colours yarn.

    The Loops and Thread Cotton Colours yarn is a size 4, worsted weight, 100% cotton yarn available at Michaels. It’s a self-striping yarn that is currently available in 10 different colourways here in Canada. The colourway that I used for this crochet shawlette free pattern is Snapdragon.

    Pin this Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern for later Save

    Just before the COVID-19 pandemic started, I was wandering through my local Michaels store and was pleasantly surprised to find a new selection of cotton yarns in the store. In Canada, we don’t have a lot of selection when it comes to yarns and even less if you’re looking for cotton or cotton blend yarns. So although my husband didn’t understand my excitement at the time, my fellow Canadian yarnies would definitely understand.

    Smiling woman wearing a shawl made with this crochet shawlette free pattern

    I was instantly drawn to the colours in the Snapdragon colourway and quickly added them to my basket. They were the most vibrant colours on the shelf and it has that mustardy yellow colour I love so there was no way I wasn’t going to try this yarn out.

    Once I got the yarn home, I decided that it would look pretty as a shawl or shawlette but I only wanted to use one skein and thus, this crochet shawlette free pattern was born. I tried a few different stitch combinations but I wanted something light and airy for spring and I think this open stitch it perfect for spring.

    I’ve provided instructions in the note section of this crochet shawlette free pattern on how to increase the size of your shawlette. Should you decide to make it bigger, please note that it will result in you using more yarn and you may require a second (or more) skeins to complete your project. However, if you were to make this bigger, it would be a great beach coverup to wrap around your waist.

    Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern – Spring Breeze Shawlette

    Woman holding a shawlette made with this crochet shawlette free pattern behind her back
    Woman wearing a one skein shawlette made with this crochet shawlette free pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner

    Supplies:

    Close up image of the texture in the Spring Breeze Shawlette

    Abbreviations:


    Finished size:

    • 44.5” Wide by 18.5” Deep

    Gauge:

    • 11 DC and 5 CH SPs x 8 rows = 4 inches


    NOTES:

    • CH 3s at the beginning of Rows count as first DC stitch
    • This pattern is worked from one side to the other, increasing until you reach the mid-point of the piece and then decreasing down the other side of the project.  If you want to make your project bigger, continue increasing in pattern stitch after Row 45 until you have reached the desired mid-point size, do two more rows that maintain the mid-point stitch count and then begin decreasing in the manner outlined beginning in Row 48.  Please note that increasing the size will result in needing more yarn than required in supply list.

    Spring Breeze Shawlette Pattern: Crochet Shawlette Free Pattern

    woman wearing a one skein shawlette over her shoulders

    CH 7
    Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each ST across.
    Row 2: Turn. CH 3 (counts as first ST here and throughout), DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 6. (4 STS, 1 CH SP)
    Row 3: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook (counts as first and 2nd STs here and throughout) CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, CH 2, SK 2, DC in the last 2 STs. (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 4: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x2, CH 6 (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 5: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 2. (8 STS, 3CH SPS)
    Row 6: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3, CH 6 (8 STS, 3CH SPS)
    Row 7: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Row 8: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4, CH 6. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Row 9: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)
    Row 10: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5, CH 6. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)

    Smiling woman hugging a smiling child who is wearing a spring shawlette

    Row 11: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)
    Row 12: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6, CH 6. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)
    Row 13: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Row 14: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7, CH 6. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Row 15: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Row 16: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8, CH 6. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Row 17: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Row 18: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9, CH 6. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Row 19: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)
    Row 20: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10, CH 6. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)

    spring shawlette hanging on a fence with colourful bubbles in the foreground

    Row 21: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)
    Row 22: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11, CH 6. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)
    Row 23: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Row 24: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12, CH 6. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Row 25: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Row 26: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13, CH 6. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Row 27: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Row 28: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14, CH 6. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Row 29: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)
    Row 30: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15, CH 6. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)

    close up image of the crochet shawlette made with this free crochet pattern.

    Row 31: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)
    Row 32: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16, CH 6. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)
    Row 33: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Row 34: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17, CH 6. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Row 35: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Row 36: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18, CH 6. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Row 37: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Row 38: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19, CH 6. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Row 39: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)
    Row 40: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20, CH 6. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)

    crochet shawlette hung on a fence, made with one skein of loops and thread cotton colours yarn


    Row 41: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)
    Row 42: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21, CH 6. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)
    Row 43: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Row 44: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22, CH 6. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Row 45: Turn. DC in the 4th CH from the hook. CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22. (48 STS, 23 CH SPS)
    Rows 46 – 47: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 23. (48 STS, 23 CH SPS)
    Rows 48 – 49: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 22. (46 STS, 22 CH SPS)
    Rows 50 – 51: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 21. (44 STS, 21 CH SPS)


    Rows 52 – 53: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 20. (42 STS, 20 CH SPS)
    Rows 54 – 55: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 19. (40 STS, 19 CH SPS)
    Rows 56 – 57: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 18. (38 STS, 18 CH SPS)
    Rows 58 – 59: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 17. (36 STS, 17 CH SPS)
    Rows 60 – 61: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 16. (34 STS, 16 CH SPS)

    Woman looking off into the distance wearing a colourful shawlette made with this free crochet pattern


    Rows 62 – 63: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 15. (32 STS, 15 CH SPS)
    Rows 64 – 65: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 14. (30 STS, 14 CH SPS)
    Rows 66 – 67: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 13. (28 STS, 13 CH SPS)
    Rows 68 – 69: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 12. (26 STS, 12 CH SPS)
    Rows 70 – 71: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 11. (24 STS, 11 CH SPS)


    Rows 72 – 73: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 10. (22 STS, 10 CH SPS)
    Rows 74 – 75: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 9. (20 STS, 9 CH SPS)
    Rows 76 – 77: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 8. (18 STS, 8 CH SPS)
    Rows 78 – 79: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 7. (16 STS, 7 CH SPS)
    Rows 80 – 81: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 6. (14 STS, 6 CH SPS)

    Woman wearing a colourful one skein shawlette on her shoulders


    Rows 82 – 83: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 5. (12 STS, 5 CH SPS)
    Rows 84 – 85: Turn.  CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 4. (10 STS, 4 CH SPS)
    Rows 86 – 87: Turn.  CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 3. (8 STS, 3 CH SPS)
    Rows 88 – 89: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, *CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs* x 2. (6 STS, 2 CH SPS)
    Row 89: Turn. CH 3, DC in the 2nd St, CH 2, SK 2, DC in the next 2 STs. (4 STS, 1 CH SP)
    Row 90: Turn.  CH 1, SC in the first two STs, SC 2 in the CH SP, SC in the remaining two STs. (6)
    FO and weave in ends.  Block.

    I hope you have enjoyed this crochet shawlette free pattern and making your own Spring Breeze Shawlette.

    While you’re here, you may enjoy some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Shawl, Otis the Owl, Rainbow Keychain Crochet Pattern, Shoreline Seeker Tote. You can find all of my available free crochet patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl

    Close up image of Crochet owl made with faux fur yarn and this free crochet pattern.
    All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.

    Finally! A crochet owl free pattern! WOO!

    Once and a while, I’ll come up with a new amigurumi pattern and my husband will say ” how have you not done an owl design yet?”. My answer is always along the lines of “I don’t know” or ” there are already so may crochet owl free patterns out there..”. I had always wanted to design a crochet owl but to be honest, I just didn’t feel inspired to create one… until I saw the Mishka Fable Fur colourway. It reminded me of barn owls and I knew I needed to make an amigurumi owl with it.

    Those that know me well, know that my absolutely favourite animals are owls. I am obsessed. Some of my favourite gifts I’ve ever received were opportunities to go and spend the day with birds of prey. I’ve been so fortunate to have had these experiences to do training exercises with a variety of owl, hawk, falcon and eagle species. Everytime I get to spend time with birds of prey, I am in awe and learn something new. I guess I just waited to create one because nothing felt right.

    Picture of a woman holding a snowy owl on her arm.
    I couldn’t resist sharing at least one photo of me with an owl. Me with Elsa the Snow Owl. One of my absolute favourites!

    Pin this Crochet Owl Free Pattern for later Save

    Once I got my Mishka coloured Fable Fur yarn, I just knew an amigurumi owl had to be the next free crochet pattern in my faux fur yarn amigurumi series. (In case you’ve missed it, you can get the other patterns from this series so far here: Kaya Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth and Salty the Seal.)

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, you may want to check out my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn. You can read that post HERE or you can check out the video version below.

    The pattern for Otis the Owl is a quick and simple pattern. He is a tiny little guy and is about 4 inches tall. You’ll need some Fable Fur yarn in the colourway Mishka and some Brava Worsted Yarn in the colour Brindle from We Crochet (crochet.com). I asbolutely love both these products from We Crochet.

    Amigurumi Owl made with faux fur sitting on top of a ball of fable fur yarn

    Believe it or not, I used to be super intimidated by working with faux fur yarns. But I was really inspired by them and had so many ideas that I decided to give them a try even though I was terrified I may not be able to see my stitches. I am so glad that I did! Fable Fur yarn has now become one of my absolutely favourite products to work with to date. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products.

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl

    Picture of an amigurumi owl that was made with this crochet owl free pattern sitting in the palm of a hand

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 4” tall

    Gauge: 

    • 4 sts x 5 rows = 2” – Not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through. 

    Notes:

    • The project is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.


    Pattern:


    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them
    Add stuffing.

    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    Body


    Round 1:
    Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (12)
    Add stuffing.

    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up body onto the bottom of the head  Add a bit more stuffing and sew body onto head.

    Wings (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Pull the circle tight but do not join. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the bird, near the neck.

    Beak:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC.  CH 3 and DC 3 into the MC. (3)

    Turn and join last ST to the top of the CH 3 with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Using the tail from the creation of the MC, sew the CH 3 to the last DC to close up the back of the beak.  Sew onto face between the eyes and weave in ends.

    Step 1 of the crochet owl beak
    Crochet Owl Beak Step 1 (before the sl st)
    Step two of the beak
    Crochet Owl Beak – Step 2 – SL ST to top of CH 3
    Sewing up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Crochet Owl Beak – Step 4 – Seam up the “back” of the beak
    Seaming up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Continuing to sew up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Back of the beak completely seamed up.
    Back of the crochet owl beak, completely sewn up.

    Feet

    Row 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle, CH 3. In 2nd CH from hook, SC.  SC in next ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 2: CH 1. SC in each ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 3:  CH 1. SCINC in each ST. Turn. (4)
    Row 4: CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3.  CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3. CH 4 SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the last SC of Row 3.  SL ST down the side of the foot, placing a SL ST in the end of each row. 
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body.  Sew feet onto the bottom of the body so the toes just peek out the front.

    Completed Crochet Owl Foot
    Completed Crochet Owl Foot
    view of the crochet owl feet created in this free crochet pattern and sewn to the bottom of the project.
    I’m loving his little feet so much!

    Finishing Touches

    The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see. 

    Check out some of my other Free Faux Fur Crochet Patterns:

    Seth the Sloth, Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain.


    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.
  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Sloth Pattern: Seth the Sloth

    Amigurumi Crochet Sloth made with Faux fur holding a crochet hook
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I am so excited to share my brand new free crochet sloth pattern with you to make my friend Seth the Sloth. This is a relatively simple amigurumi pattern that just looks incredible using the faux fur yarn. All my friends and family that have seen him want him or one of their own. This is my favourite crochet sloth pattern that I’ve created so far and I’m sure you’ll love him too.

    When I got the idea for making an amigurumi sloth, I tried a few different things but I never felt really happy with them. After I made my crochet koala, Kaya Koala (get her free crochet pattern HERE), I fell in love with working with faux fur yarn and I just knew that I had to use it to make a sloth. Once I had that I idea, I started immediately and worked on it late into the night. I was so inspired that I couldn’t put the hook down! I knew I’d pay for my lack of sleep the next day but I didn’t care. I HAD to finish the sloth and I wouldn’t rest until I did.

    Pin it for later Save

    When I was finally finished (at an obscenely late hour for someone whose kids were going to be waking up at 6am), I was ecstatic. Tired, but ecstatic. I put Seth up on a shelf so my kids couldn’t get a hold of him before I was able to take pictures of him and headed to bed. The next morning, my kids went crazy as soon as they saw him and immediately started arguing over who was going to keep him. After explaining to them that Seth was for Mommy’s blog and that Mommy was going to keep him for a while, they agreed to wait until I was done with him to play with him… but only if I would let them each pet and cuddle him for a minute. Honestly, seeing how excited my kids get over my projects makes me more excited about them and seeing the joy on their faces when I give them a new toy I create makes it all worth it.

    Crochet sloth resting it's arm on a ball of faux fur yarn with a crochet hook in it's lap.

    This free crochet sloth pattern uses mushroom buttons instead of safety eyes, so for safety reasons, I wouldn’t recommend giving this toy to a small child that may put the toy in their mouth. My children are past that stage so I feel comfortable letting them play a toy that has buttons for eyes like Seth does.

    I got the yarn to make this project from Wecrochet.com. I am so in love with their Fable Fur yarn and their Brava Worsted yarns. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products. If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    If you’re a fan of free crochet sloth patterns, you’re in luck! I’ve got more! Check out my Free Crochet Sloth Coffee Cozy and my Crochet Sloth Hook Case Pattern.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, check out my video for my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn.

    Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Seth the Sloth

    Crochet sloth looking at a plant.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12” Tall


    Gauge:

    • Faux Fur Sections: 6 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches
    • Face Patch made with Worsted Yarn: 10 sts x 11 rows = 2 inches



    NOTES:

    • All pieces are worked and sewed onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • All pieces with the exception of the face patch made with worsted yarn, are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join the ends of your rows (except where noted).

    Face and Head:

    Row 1: Using Dove Heather and 3.5mm hook, CH 9. SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 6, SCINC in the last CH. (10)
    Row 2: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 8, SCINC in the last ST. (12)
    Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 10, SCINC in the last ST. (14)
    Row 4: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 12, SCINC in the last ST. (16)
    Rows 5 – 7: Turn. CH 1. SC across. (16)
    Row 8: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC (14)
    Row 9: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC (12)
    Row 10: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC (10)
    Row 11: Turn. CH 1. SC across. Turn. (10)
    Change to Fable Fur Kuma and 5.5mm hook.
    Round 12: Turn piece clockwise and place 24 SC evenly around the outside edge of the piece.  When you get to first and last rows of the piece, you will have to insert your hook into the top of the first row (between Rows 1 and 2 – see picture below for help) and the top of Row 10 (between Rows 10 and 11 – see picture below for help) in order to get your hook and yarn through the piece.  Turn the piece so the furriest side is facing you.  That’s now the right side.


    Round 13: Working in continuous round now with the right side facing you, SC in each ST around (24)
    Round 14: SC around (24)
    Round 15: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 16 -17: SC around (30)
    Round 18: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24)
    Round 19: SC around (24)
    Round 20: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing as you go.
    Round 21: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 22: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew up the hole.

    Eye Patches: (Make 2)

    Using Black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 7.
    Round 1: SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 4, SC 5 in the last CH. On the other side of the CH, SC 4, SC3 in the last CH. (18)

    Join with a sl st and FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face.  Place the back of the button through the small gap created when you put 5 SCs in the last CH of the eye patch. Secure button using a length of black yarn and your tapestry needle. Repeat with the other eye patch.  Position each eye patch on the face, slightly overlapping the edge of the face and sew onto the face.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Nose

    Using a length of black yarn approximately 15 inches long, embroider a nose onto the face of your sloth approximately 3 stitches long.  There should be 3 stitches on either side of the nose between the nose and the end of eye patches.

    Close up image of the face of the crochet sloth made with this free crochet sloth pattern

    Body

    Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24)
    Round 5: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Round 8: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24)
    Round 9: SC around (24)
    Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18)
    Round 11: SC around (18)
    Round 12: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) – Start stuffing.  Adding a bit more stuffing after each round.
    Rounds 13 – 14: SC around (12)
    FO leaving a long tail to secure to the head.  Sew the body onto the head, adding more stuffing as you seam to support the head. Stuff firmly.

    Arms (Make 2)

    Round 1:  Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew arms onto body.  Do not stuff.  Sew arms onto either side of the body just below where the head meets the body.

    Crochet sloth being held by the hand.

    Legs (Make 2)

    Round 1:  Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew legs onto body.  Do not stuff.  Sew legs onto either side of the bottoms of the body.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Picture of Crochet sloth made with faux fur yarn with a text overlay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.
  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird

    Two chubby crochet birds, one wearing a hat and one with a flower on her head.
    This page may contain affiliate links.

    This free crochet bird pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    This week I’d love to introduce you to my new free crochet bird pattern to make my little friends Bob and Betty Bird. This is a quick and easy amigurumi bird pattern that makes two chubby little birds who are ready for spring. They’re all dressed up to celebrate the spring season and make new friends after a long winter away.

    Bob and Betty are a pattern that was created with the help of my two young children. I wanted to make a crochet bird pattern for spring and started on a prototype. Once my children saw it, they both wanted one of their own, in their favourite colours. I was happy to oblige and began making them their own birds.

    It felt like the birds needed a little something more though so I asked my kids: “what do you think this little crochet bird needs to make them cuter?” They came up with some fun ideas but ultimately, my daugther decided on a pink flower and eyelashes for her bird and my son wanted a blue hat. My kids are always a big inspiration for me but it was especially fun creating this for them to be exactly what they wanted it to be.

    Pin it for later Save

    My husband laid claim to the original prototype and wanted nothing added to his. So thanks to my kids, instead of one free crochet bird pattern to share with you today, we have two. We hope you enjoy them. I know my kids certainly do!

    For this project I used some wonderful tools from Clover USA, specifically, a Clover Amour crochet hook, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needles and Quick Lock Stitch Markers.

    Two amigurumi birds standing in front of clover usa products used in the free crochet pattern

    A good quality, comfortable crochet hook and locking stitch markers are vital tools to creating amigurumi. When creating an amigurumi project, the stitches tend to be tighter than other projects in order to prevent the stuffing from showing. This can lead to hand pain if you have an uncomfortable crochet hook. I found this hook to be incredibly comfortable and smoothe to work with.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    I exclusively use locking stitch markers. The reason being is that I don’t trust stitch markers that don’t lock. I’ve had other stitch markers that didn’t lock fall out of my work, losing my place too many times to count. And that, is just too frustrating to deal with. If you really enjoy making amirugumi, then I highly recommend locking stitch markers become your new best friend. The Quick Lock Stitch Markers from Clover were fab. They come in a great little box that latches closed so it helps me keep them all in the same place (besides the ones that fall in my couch lol). Not only did the little kit of stitch markers come with a few different sizes, they look like tiny little sheep. They are just C.U.T.E.!

    Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird

    Back view of the birds made with this free crochet bird pattern
    Check out those cute little tails!



    Check out the free tutorial for this pattern on YouTube!



    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    The yarn and some of the tools used in this free crochet bird pattern.

    Supplies to make Betty Bird (Purple Bird):

    Supplies to make Bob Bird (Blue Bird):

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FLO = Front Loops Only.
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 3” tall by 4.5” wide from wing tip to wing tip

    Gauge:

    • 10.5 sts x 11.5 rows = 2 inches

    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • The Body, Wing, Beak and Tail pattern is the same for both birds.  The only difference is the colour you use.  Where “main colour” is indicated, use Fairy Tale (purple) for Betty Bird (she’s wearing a flower) and Denim (blue) for the Bob Bird (he’s wearing a hat).

    Amigurumi birds standing on top of colourful yarn

    Body:

    Round 1: Using your main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 5, SCINC, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 9 – 17: SC around (48) – Place safety eyes in Round 15 with 7 sts between them.
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42)
    Round 19: SC around (42)
    Round 20: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 21: SC 2, (SCDEC, SC 4) x 5, SCDEC, SC 2 (30)
    Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing with each round.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 23: SC 1, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC 1 (18)
    Round 24: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO leaving a long tail.  Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening.  Weave in ends.

    ** For Betty Bird Only**
    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Purple crochet bird made with this free crochet bird pattern

    Beak

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12)
    Do NOT stuff.  After completing Row 4, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto face. Lining the beak up with the bottom of the eyes, sew onto the face, sewing through both layers of the beak at once.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Wings (make 2)

    Round 1: Using main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6).
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12)

    After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body.  Do NOT stuff.  Sew wings onto either side of the body, lining the top edge of the wing up with the bottom of the eyes and sewing through both layers of the wings at the same time.

    Blue Amigurumi Bird made with this free crochet bird pattern

    Feet (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12)
    After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew either side of the body. Do NOT stuff.  Sew the feet onto the bottom of your bird along Round 5 with 3 stitches in between them, sewing through both layers of the feet at the same time.

    Tail

    Round 1: Using main colour, CH 10.  SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SC 7, SC 4 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 7, SCINC in the last CH.  Do not join. (22)
    Round 2: SC in each st around (22)
    Round 3: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 10 (20)
    Round 4: SC around (20)
    Round 5: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18)
    Round 6: SC around (18)

    After completing Round 6, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the bottom part of the back of your bird.  Do NOT stuff.  Sewing through both layers of the tail, sew the tail onto the bottom of your bird along Round 4 of the body so the tail points out towards the center of the back of the body.

    Flower for Betty Bird

    Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  Join to first st with a SL ST. FO.
    Round 2:
    Change to Rouge, attaching it to the first ST of the previous round.CH 1.(HDC, DC, HDC) in the first st. *(SL ST, HDC, DC, HDC) in the next st.* Repeat instructions in ** 4 more times.  Join last st to first st with a SL ST. 

    FO and weave in ends.  Sew to the head of the bird.

    Two amigurumi birds being held i someone's hands.

    Hat for Bob Bird

    Round 1: Using Celestial, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 8: SC around (30)
    Round 9: (SCINC, SC 1) x 15 (45)
    Round 10: SL ST in each st around. (45)
    FO.  Using a long piece of Celestial yarn, sew the hat onto the top of the bird’s head, adding a bit of stuffing into the hat before closing it up.


    I hope you have enjoyed making your very own Bob and Betty bird using this free crochet bird pattern! While you’re here, check out some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Buttons the Bunny Crochet Bunny Pattern, Derek the Dinosaur, Carter the Carrot, Kaya Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Penny the Bunny Cactus. See all available patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: Subscribe to my YouTube channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Two Amigurumi Birds made with this free crochet bird pattern/>
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Koala Keychain Free Crochet Pattern

    Crochet koala keychain made with faux fur yarn being held in an open hand.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    Thank you so much to everyone for all the love you showed my first faux fur yarn project: Kaya Koala. So many people were excited to get started on making a crochet koala of their very own but some found using the faux fur yarn a bit intimidating. As a result, I started a YouTube channel and launched my very first YouTube Video sharing my top tips for working with faux fur yarn. I designed my Crochet Koala Keychain as a starter project for those that may be nervous about crocheting with faux fur yarn. It’s small and quick and helps you get the feel of what it’s like to create an amigurumi type project with faux fur yarn.

    Pin it for later Save

    For my Crochet Koala Keychain project, I have used Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet (crochet.com) in the colour Kuma to create a mini crochet koala head to be used as a keychain. If you leave out the keychain attachments, you could even use it as a pompom on a child’s hat.

    The tools you’ll need to complete this project are 14 yards of faux fur yarn, a small amount of worsted weigh yarn in black, large eye tapestry needle, scissors, a pair of safety eyes, a small amount of polyester stuffing, a split ring and a keychain attachment. These whip up so quickly and are honestly, a little addictive to make. I was able to get 5 of these adorable little guys from one skein of yarn.

    If you’re nervous about working with fur yarns, check out my video below and get my tips for working with this kind of product.

    Crochet Koala Keychain – Free Crochet Pattern

    Crochet Koala Keychain made with faux fur yarn next to a yellow furls crochet hook and a cactus plant.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 2.5” tall


    Gauge: 

    • Not vital to project


    Notes:

    • The head is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.


    Check out the Video Tutorial for this Pattern:

    Pattern:

    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them. Add stuffing.
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole and sew on your split ring.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Sew the split ring to the top of the head.  Weave in ends.

    Crochet Koala Keychain and Amigurumi Koala next to crochet accessories
    My crochet koala keychain with the toy that inspired it: Kaya Koala – Which is also a free crochet pattern here on my blog.

    Nose:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in black and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)

    Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Sew onto face and weave in ends.

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    Ears (Make two)


    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.

    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head.  Sew each ear onto either side of head and weave in ends.


    Finishing Touches


    The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see. 

    Attach Keychain to split ring and you’re all finished!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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    I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet koala keychain! If you liked this pattern you may enjoy some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Kaya Koala, Buttons The Bunny Free Crochet Along, Clawdia Cat, Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal and Penny the Bunny Cactus. You can find all my free crochet patterns listed HERE.

    Crochet Koala Keychain next to a yello crochet hook
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
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