• Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Tartan Cowl – Free Crochet Cowl Pattern

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a free crochet patterh for a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches.  If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl.

#crochetpattern #freecrochet #buttoncowl #crochetcowl #crochetcowlpattern #plaidcowl #tartancowl

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches. If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl. I can’t wait to see all of the colour combos everyone comes up with!

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is made using three different colours of Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn. I’ve used the colours Moss, Cranberry and Stardust. This was my first time using Mary Maxim’s Woodlands yarn and it was love at first squish. This yarn is an acrylic/alpaca blend (90%/10%) and is is delightfully soft and cozy. It does have a little bit of a halo (I suspect from the addition of the alpaca fibers) but doesn’t hinder visibility or diminish stitch definition. The colours are rich and beautiful. I mean, that cranberry yarn is so awesome, that I want to use it for everything right now. This is definitely a yarn that I want to keep handy in my stash.

    Pin it for later HERE.

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl measures approximately 10 inches wide by 35 inches long. The cowl fits closely to the neck and you fold the top edge down to create a sort of collar. If you prefer a looser fitting cowl, the pattern gives you intstructions for making the cowl any length you prefer. If you do alter the length of your cowl, please keep in mind that it will affect how much yarn you will require.

    close up of the buttons on the crochet plaid cowl.

    How to Surface Crochet

    To make the vertical striping on the Crochet Tartan Cowl, I used a technique called surface crochet. Surface crochet is a technique to add stitches to the surface of your project using slip stitches. This is a fairly simple technique that gives you a pretty chain along the top of your project. The wrong side of your project looks like it has little dashes instead of the chain.

    The two most important things to remember when doing surface crochet are:
    1. Make sure the right side of your project is facing you and,
    2. Don’t make your slip stitches too tight!

    I cannot stress #2 enough. If your slip stitches are too tight, it can warp your fabric and your fabric will lose it’s elasticity because the slip stitches will prevent the fabric from stretching. If you need to go up a hook size (or two) in order to help keep a loose tension on your slip stitches, don’t hesitate to do it. You may kick yourself later if you don’t.

    To do surface crochet, start with the right side of the fabric facing you:

    • Insert your hook into the stitch you want to start with from right side of the fabric to the wrong side. Put your slip knot onto your hook and pull from the wrong side of your fabric to the right side of your fabric. You will be holding the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric as you do this
    • Insert your hook into the next stitch/or spot you are wanting to make your stitch in. Pull up a loop through your fabric and pull through the loop on your hook. 1 slip stitch created.
    • Repeat these steps until you are satisfied with your surface crochet and FO. I like to pull my tail to the back of my work and then weave my ends in.

    If you want to see a video tutorial on surface crochet to see it in action, check out this video by B.Hooked Crochet HERE.

    Plaid cowl pattern, free crochet pattern, button cowl pattern free

    Crochet Tartan Cowl

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    6.0 mm hook
    188 yards/172 m (3.3 oz/94 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Stardust
    68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Cranberry
    68 yards/62 m (1.2 oz/34 g) of Mary Maxim Woodlands in Moss
    3 – 1.5” Buttons
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Abbreviations:

    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.


    Finished size: Approximately 35” Long by 10” wide

    Gauge: 14 sts x 11.5 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES: You’ll be doing surface crochet stitches to create the vertical striping of the tartan. When doing the vertical striping, if you find that your fabric is losing a lot of stretch or bunching up, it means your slip stitches are too tight.  Make sure you keep your slip stitches loose.  Don’t hesitate to go up a hook size or two to keep your stitches from being too tight.

    Pattern

    Using Stardust, CH 35
    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook and each st across. (34)
    Rows 2 – 4: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Cranberry
    Rows 5 – 6:  CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Stardust
    Row 7: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Moss
    Rows 8 – 9: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Stardust
    Rows 10 – 15: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Cranberry
    Rows 16 – 17:  CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Stardust
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    Change to Moss
    Rows 19 – 20: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)

    Girl wearing the Crochet Plaid Cowl, made in grey, red and green.


    Rows 21 – 97: Repeat rows 10 – 20 7 more times. (34)
    If you want a longer cowl, keep repeating Rows 10 – 20 and return to Row 98 when ready to complete.
    Change to Stardust

    Row 98: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts.  CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 8 sts, CH 3, SK 3 the next 3 sts, HDC in the next 9 sts, CH 3, SK the next 3 sts, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (25 sts and 3 CH spaces)
    Row 99: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first st and the next 3 sts.  HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the next 8 sts, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC 9, HDC 3 in the CH space, HDC in the remaining 4 sts. (34)
    Rows 100 – 101: CH 1 and turn. HDC in the first st and each st across. (34)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Adding the vertical stripes using surface crochet:
    Using Cranberry, make a slip knot.  Insert your hook into the bottom part of your third stitch in your starting chain of the cowl.  Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project.  With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches) and the right side facing you, slip stitch into the third stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl.  FO.  Repeat these steps again, starting in the 12th stitch of each row, the 22nd stitch of each row and the 31st stitch of each row.

    Using Moss, make a slip knot.   Insert your hook into the bottom part of your fourth stitch in your starting chain of the cowl.  Inserting your hook from the right side to the wrong side, pull the slip knot through to the front of your project.  With your cowl facing you lengthwise (or whichever way you feel most comfortable doing surface slip stitches), working right to left, slip stitch into the fourth stitch of every row for the entire length of your cowl.  FO.  Repeat these steps again in the 13th stitch of each row, 23rd stitch of each row and the 32nd stitch of each row

    FO and weave in ends.

    Sew your buttons using a length of stardust yarn onto the long side of the cowl, on the end of the piece without the button holes  To get the right placement, I fold the two ends of the cowl down so they overlap each other (the end with the button holes on top).  Place the buttons on top of the buttonholes and sew into place.  I like to shift the end with the button holes down a little bit so that end of the cowl on the bottom lines up with the last line of surface stitches rather than the edge of the cowl so there’s less chance of the corner without a button creeping out on you.

    Fold the top edge down to form a collar

    Thanks for stopping by and checking out my pattern for the Crochet Tartan Cowl. If you like free crochet cowl patterns, check out the free patter for my Ava Cowl or my Super Quick Chunky Cowl.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    The Crochet Tartan Cowl is a free crochet patterh for a beautifully classic cowl made using simple colour changes and simple stitches.  If you can crochet a chain, half double crochet and slip stitch, you can make this cowl.

#crochetpattern #freecrochet #buttoncowl #crochetcowl #crochetcowlpattern #plaidcowl #tartancowl
  • Crochet Patterns

    The Aeipathy Beanie

    The Aeipathy Beanie - a free crochet hat pattern from The Loopy Lamb.

This highly textured beanie is comprised of simple crochet stitches and is a quick and easy crochet pattern, accessible for beginners.

#crochethat #crochetbeanie #bobblestitch #beanie #freecrochetpattern #crochetpatternfree #freehatpattern #freecrochethatpattern #freepattern

    The Aeipathy Beanie is a crochet hat pattern that combines two of my favourite stitches: Bobble Stitch and Camel Stitch. I also love the colour purple. So when it was time to come up with a name, The Aeipathy Beanie seemed appropriate since Aeipathy means “a continued passion” and I definitely have a continued passion for textured stitches and crochet in general.

    To make this hat, I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn in Hot Springs which is a size 4 aran weight yarn. Some great yarns that you could use as substitute for the Heartland yarn are: Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, Caron One Pound and Red Heart With Love yarn. Ultimately, as long as you match gauge, you can use another medium weight, size 4 yarn that isn’t in the list suggested above.

    free crochet hat pattern for The Aeipathy Beanie by The Loopy Lamb

    I like to top my crochet hats with a faux fur pompom but that step is optional. If you want to take a hand at making your own DIY faux fur pom pom, this tutorial from Heart Hook Home is really helpful. I’ve used the same process described in the tutorial to make my own pom poms with success. However, time is often limited so I generally use THESE pompoms from Amazon.

    Save it for later on Pinterest HERE.

    To make this crochet hat, you’ll need to know how to crochet in the third loop of a stitch (aka camel stitch), single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and how to make a magic circle.

    free crochet hat pattern for The Aeipathy Beanie by The Loopy Lamb

    Aeipathy Beanie – Free Crochet Hat Pattern

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    5.5 mm crochet hook
    3.8oz/109 yards of Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in Hot Springs
    Tapestry Needle
    Faux Fur Pom Pom (optional)

    Abbreviations:

    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase
    DC = Double Crochet
    DC Increase = Double Crochet Increase
    Bobble = Bobble Stitch (see Special Stitches for instructions for this stitch)
    MC = Magic Circle
    FO = Finish Off

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    girl wearing The Aeipathy Beanie made with the free crochet pattern from The Loopy Lamb

    Size: One Size – Adult
    Finished size: Approximately 8.5 inches tall x 10 inches wide.

    Gauge: 17 HDC sts across x 12 rows = 4” square

    NOTES:

    – On the bobble stitch rows, the hat is worked with the wrong side facing you so that the bobble stitches will push out to the right side of the work.
    – Join indicates that you should join the last stitch of the round to the top of the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch.
    – CH 2 at the beginning of DC rounds counts as a stitch.

    Special Stitches:

    Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG).  To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch.  YO and draw up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook).  Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook.  YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.

    Pattern

    Row 1: Make a MC. CH 2 and DC 11 into the MC. Join to the top of the first DC with a slip stitch. From here on referred to as “Join”. (12)
    Row 2: CH 2. DC in the first stitch, DCINC in the next 11 stitches. Join.  CH 2 and turn (24)
    Row 3: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch).  Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join.  CH 2 and turn. (24)
    Row 4: (HDCINC in the first stitch, HDC 1 in the next stitch).  Repeat instructions in brackets 12 times. Join and CH 2. (36)
    Row 5: In 3rd loop, HDC 1 in the first stitch, HDCINC in the next stitch, (HDC 2, HDCINC) repeat this pattern 11 times, HDC 1 in the last stitch.  Join and CH 2 (48)
    Row 6: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 3 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12.  Join and CH 2 (60)
    Row 7: HDC in the first 2 stitches, HDCINC in the next. (HDC in the next 4 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 11, HDC in the last 2 stitches. Join and CH 2 (72)

    The Aeipathy Beanie with handmade wooden crochet hook and scissors laid on top

    Row 8: In 3rd loop, (HDC in the first 5 stitches, HDCINC in the next) x 12.  Join.  CH 2 and turn. (84)
    Row 9: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 10: HDC in each stitch around.  Join. CH 2.  (84)
    Rows 11 – 12: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join. CH 2. (84)
    Row 13: HDC in each stitch around.  Join. CH 2. (84)
    Row 14: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 15: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 16: HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 (84)
    Rows 17 – 18: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn. (84)

    girl acting silly wearing The Aeipathy Beanie, a crochet hat pattern from The Loopy Lamb


    Row 19: HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 (84)
    Row 20: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn (84)
    Row 21: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC in the next 2 stitches) x 28.  Join. CH 2 and turn. (84)
    Row 22: HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2 and turn. (84)
    Rows 23 – 24: In 3rd loop, HDC in each stitch around.  Join.  CH 2. (84)
    Row 25: Repeat Row 22. (84)
    Rows 26 – 28: Repeat Row 23. (84)
    FO and weave in ends. If using pompom, secure to the top of the hat using your preferred method.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like to make crochet hats? Check out my free crochet hat patterns for the Arctic Gem Beanie and the Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat.

    The Aeipathy Beanie - a free crochet hat pattern from The Loopy Lamb.

This highly textured beanie is comprised of simple crochet stitches and is a quick and easy crochet pattern, accessible for beginners.

#crochethat #crochetbeanie #bobblestitch #beanie #freecrochetpattern #crochetpatternfree #freehatpattern #freecrochethatpattern #freepattern
  • Crochet Patterns

    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow

    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow - Free Crochet Pattern from The Loopy Lamb

This pillow is quick to put together an accessible for anyone that can do a single crochet stitch.

#freecrochetpattern #halloweencrochet #diyhalloweenprojects #halloweenpillow #ghostpillow #boopillow #crochetpillow #crochetdecor #holidaycrochet #crochetpatternfree
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    The kids are back in school and there is a bit of a chill in the air and that means one thing… Halloween is almost here! It’s time to work on an adorable and fun crochet Halloween pillow. The Mad About Boo Halloween Pillow is an easy crochet project that is fun without being too scary for young kids.

    This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique. Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work. Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour.

    Pillow Panels

    The front panel of the Mad About Boo crochet Halloween pillow (the ghost side) is worked using the Instaria technique. I made small balls/bobbins of black yarn to minimize how much “floating” was happening behind my panel. It meant a few extra ends to weave in, however, it was cleaner and minimized pulling on the back. If you don’t carry your yarn loosely, it can cause your panel not to lay flat so be sure to watch the tension on that yarn.

    Reading Intarsia Colour Charts

    To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left.  For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again.  Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction. Each square in your chart = 1 SC stitch

    The back panel of the halloween pillow is made is the standard crochet technique and it made using only one colour.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy which includes both the chart and the written instructions for this pattern.

    Mad About You Intarsia Crochet Chart Free Pattern
    1 box = 1 stitch

    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:
    4.5 mm hook
    3.6 oz/103g of Red Heart Super Saver in Black
    2.6 oz/73g of Red Heart Super Saver in White
    0.7 oz/19g of Red Heart Super Saver in Carrot
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Don’t lose it! Pin it for later HERE.

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    Finished size:  11.5” Long by 10” tall

    Gauge: 15 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES:

    • Each square = 1 SC stitch
    • To read the chart, you will start in the bottom right hand corner of your chart and read right to left.  For Row Two, you would read the chart from left to right. For Row 3 you would read the chart right to left again.  Every time you turn your work, you’ll be reading the chart from a different direction.
    • This project uses the Intarsia crochet technique.  Intarsia crochet is a crochet colourwork technique where you can use multiple colours in a row and “float” (carry loosely) the strands of yarn behind your work.  Every time you need a new colour, you would insert your hook into the indicated stitch as you normally would, pull up a loop and then finish your stitch by pulling through your final loop in your new colour. The next stitch is done in the new colour. 
    • You can use the chart or the written instructions for the pattern for the front panel.  The written instructions are needed for the back panel and edging.
    Mad About Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow with some pumpkin decor and a furls crochet hook

    Front Panel

    Row 1: Using Black, CH 45 SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across. CH 1 turn. (44 sts)
    Row 2: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 3: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 9 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 5 Black, 1 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 4: 6 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 3 Black, 3 White, 8 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 5: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 7 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 1 Black, 5 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 6: 4 Black, 25 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 7: 6 Black, 3 Orange, 6 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 8: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 9: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 10: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 11: 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 12: 4 Black, 25 White, 5 Black, 5 Orange, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 13: 15 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 14: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 15: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 16: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 17: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 18: 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 19: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 25 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 20: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 21: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 22: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 15 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 23: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 24: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 25: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 26: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 27: 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 28: 4 Black, 4 White, 7 Black, 3 White, 7 Black, 4 White, 4 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 29: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 5 Black, 5 White, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 30: 4 Black, 6 White, 3 Black, 7 White, 3 Black, 6 White, 4 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 31: 16 Black, 23 White, 5 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 32: 6 Black, 21 White, 6 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 33: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 7 Black, 19 White, 7 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 34: 8 Black, 17 White, 8 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 35: 4 Black, 7 Orange, 9 Black, 15 White, 9 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 36: 10 Black, 13 White, 10 Black, 2 Orange, 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 37: 3 Black, 3 Orange, 3 Black, 2 Orange, 11 Black, 11 White, 11 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 38: 33 Black, 7 Orange, 4 Black. CH 1 and turn (44 sts)
    Row 39: 44 Black. CH 1 and turn. (44 sts)
    Row 40: 44 Black. (44 sts)

    Fasten off and sew in your ends

    Back Panel

    Using Black, CH 45.
    Row 1:  SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each stitch across (44)
    Rows 2 – 40: CH 1 and turn. SC in the first stitch and in each stitch across. (44)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Mad about Boo Crochet Halloween Pillow

    Assembly and Trim

    Row 1: Place the panels on top of one another with the wrong sides facing each other and the front panel on top.  We’ll be crocheting through both layers to add a trim to our pillow as well as seam it together.  Attach the yarn to any stitch along the top of the pillow and working through both layers, SC in the same stitch that you joined,  SC around the pillow, putting a single SC in each stitch/end of each row and placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each corner. When you’re about ¾ of the way around your pillow, start adding your stuffing.  Continue to stuff firmly as you add your trim and your pillow is fully seamed closed.  Join to the first stitch with a sl st.

    Row 2: Ch 1 and SC in each stitch around, placing (SC, HDC, SC) in each HDC stitch from the previous round.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a sl st.  FO and weave in ends.

    You don’t have to finish the pillow here.  Add some stripes, tassels or pompoms to your edging to spice it up and give it a bit more flair.

    Now that you’re done with your crochet Halloween pillow, why not get a jump on your Christmas decor with these free Christmas crochet patterns: Saint Prickolaus Cactus Cuddler and Randy the Cactus Reindeer.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    The Bobblelicious Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

    The Bobblelicious Bag is a free crochet pattern features chunky bobble stitches and a surprise pop of colour. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder "where did she buy that bag?".  Check out the free crochet pattern for the Bobblelicious Baf from The Loopy Lamb

#bobblestitch #purse #bobblestitchbag #bag #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #freepattern #bobbleliciousbag #Crochetpurse #crochetbag

    The Bobblelicious Bag is a fun crochet circle bag that is made of super chunky bobble stitches. Once it is assembled, it kind of looks like a pillbox bag. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder “where did she buy that bag?”.

    The Bobblelicious Bag is crocheted by holding two strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota Chunky Yarn together. Sarasota Chunky is a cotton/acrylic (60%/40%) mix size 5 yarn. It’s machine washable and dryable (yay!) and it comes in a variety of colours. (www.cascadeyarns.com) I really enjoyed working with this yarn for this project.

    Ashley wearing the Bobblelicious Bag outdoors

    I decided to take my hand at lining this bag and I am so glad that I did. It is one of my favourite parts of this bag. I picked a cotton fabric in a vibrant teal colour to line my bag. So although the outside of my bag may be a subtle silver/grey colour, there’s that beautiful pop of colour when you open it. I can’t wait to see what colour combos you all come up with when you’re making your Bobblelicious Bags!

    The surprise pop of colour on the Bobblelicious bag, it has a bright teal lining!
    A peek of the inside of my Bobblelicious Bag

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    • 10 mm hook
    • Approximately 1 ball** (6.9 oz/195g) of Sarasota Chunky Yarn in Silver (Colour No. 222) **See Note section regard the potential need for a second skein.
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Stitch Marker
    • 9″ Zipper in a coordinating colour
    • 51” Purse Strap – I got mine HERE.  It came with the tassel that I attached to the zipper
    • 2 – 1” wide triangle rings for making detachable straps (I used these HERE)
    • 0.25 meters of heavy weight fusible interfacing (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
    • 0.25 meters of fabric (I used cotton) in your preferred colour for lining the inside of your bag (this is the amount that I used, I recommend ordering a bit more to be sure you have enough)
    • Sewing Needle
    • Iron
    • Sewing thread that matches the colour of your bag
    • Sewing Machine for lining your bag
    • Fabric marker/pencil or something to mark your fabric with
    • Fabric Scissors
    • Sewing Pins

    Get a copy of the inexpensive ad-free PDF HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • FO = Finish Off
    • Bobble = Bobble Stich

    Special Stitches: Bobble Stitch – The Bobble Stitch is essentially a Double Crochet five together cluster (DC5TOG).  To complete it: Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into indicated stitch.  YO and draw up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook. (Two loops remaining on hook). (YO and insert hook back into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop.  YO and pull through two loops on your hook).  Repeat instructions in brackets until you have 6 loops on your hook.  YO and pull through all 6 loops on your hook.

    Size: One Size
    Finished size: Approximately 9 inches tall x 9 inches wide x 3” deep. Measurements do not include strap

    Gauge: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 4” square

    Pin in for later: HERE


    NOTES:

    • This bag is made out of two different panels that are worked in the round and then sewn together.  The end of each round is joined with a sl st.
    • This bag is made holding two strands of yarn together.  You can use one skein of yarn and pull from both ends of the skein or get two skeins and pull from the center of each skein.

    Panels (Make 2)

    Row 1: Holding 2 strands of Sarasota chunky yarn together, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (6)
    Row 2: *SC 1, Bobble* in each stitch around.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (12)
    Row 3: (SCINC) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (24)
    Row 4: (Bobble in the first stitch, SC 1 in the next) x 12.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1 (24)
    Row 5: (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next) x 12.  Join with a sl st to the first st. CH 1. (36)
    Row 6: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 18.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (36)
    Row 7: (SC 2, SCINC in the next stitch) x 12.  Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1(48)
    Row 8: (SC in the first stitch, Bobble in the next stitch) x 12. Join with a sl st to first stitch. CH 1. (48)
    Row 9: SC in each stitch around. (48)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Image of The Bobblelicious Bag against an aged fence.

    Lining Your Bobblelicious Bag

    Fold the fabric you will be lining your bag with, in half so you can cut two circles at the same time. Lay one of your bag panels on top of the fabric and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew.  You should now have two fabric circles. Repeat these steps again on your interfacing so you have a total of 2 fabric circles and 2 interfacing circles. 

    Using your iron, fuse one of your fabric circles to each of your interfacing circles.  This means you’ll have two interfacing circles with fabric on them.

    Place your interfacing circles (fabric side facing the wrong side of your panel so that if there are holes in your panel, the coloured fabric will show through) on the back of each of your panels.  If your circles are too big to fit inside the panel without stretching it, trim the circles down until they fit snuggly inside each panel.

    Once you’re confident with the fit, of your interfacing circles, lay one of your interfacing circles on top of the fabric that has been folded in half and trace a line around the circle to get an approximate size for your lining. Cut your fabric (through both layers) on the line you just drew.  You should now have 2 interfacing circles (fused with fabric) and 2 fabric circles.

    Measure the width of your bag and add 1” for seam allowances.  Measure the circumference (around the outside) of your bag and subtract 8 inches from that measurement (to leave space for your zipper).  Using these measurements, cut a strip from your fabric.

    Pin a fabric circle to each edge of the long strip you just cut, leaving a 1/2” seam allowance.  Sew around the edge of each circle to seam it to the strip, stopping at the end of the strip.  This is honestly probably the most time-consuming part so take your time.

    Adding the Zipper

    Cut a 9.5” – 10” long x 4” wide piece of fabric and cut it in half.  These pieces will be sewn onto either side of the zipper.  Fold the long edge of each strip a ¼” and iron it down to hold it in place.  Pin that edge to your zipper (with nice side of fabric facing up) ensuring that you leave enough for the zipper to move freely.  Repeat with the second strip. Sew the strips onto your zipper. 

    Image of the zipper being prepped be added to the Bobblelicious Bag

    With the zipper facing up and the bag lining with the wrong side facing out, line up your zipper with the opening on your lining that was left for the zipper.  Pin together, leaving a ¼ to ½” seam allowance and sew together, around the entire piece.

    Assembly

    Place your interfusing panels inside each of your crocheted panels.  If your panels aren’t fitting snuggly you can tack them in place by hand sewing them with a coordinating thread to your crochet panel.  Place the two crochet panels together with right sides facing out.  Holding two long lengths of yarn together, whip stitch the two panels together, leaving an opening of at least 9.5” for the zipper.  You may want to wait until you are done sewing in your zipper before you weave in the ends from this so if you need a little extra wiggle room to get your zipper in, you’ll have some give in the seam because it isn’t finished. 

    Bobblelicious Bag by The Loopy Lamb 

Free Crochet Pattern for a beautiful bobble stitch purse.

    Place your lining (with the wrong side facing out) inside the purse and using a sewing thread and needle, hand sew the zipper to the opening of your bag.  Weave in your ends from your whip stitch seam. 

    Line up your triangle rings on each side of the bag, approximately 2.5” inches below the edges of your zipper.  Using a length of yarn, sew to your bag.  Attach your purse strap to the triangle rings.  If using a tassel, attach it to the zipper. 

    Viola!  You’re finished your Bobblelicious Bag!  I hope you enjoy 😊

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Bobblelicious Bag!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like making crochet bags? Check out my free patterns for The Vendbar Tote (The Reversible Tote Bag), The Colour Block Makeup Bag or The Rainbow Saver Tote Bag.

    The Bobblelicious Bag is a free crochet pattern features chunky bobble stitches and a surprise pop of colour. The chain style strap gives it a professional touch that will make your friends wonder "where did she buy that bag?".  Check out the free crochet pattern for the Bobblelicious Baf from The Loopy Lamb

#bobblestitch #purse #bobblestitchbag #bag #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #freepattern #bobbleliciousbag #Crochetpurse #crochetbag
  • Crochet Patterns

    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket

    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Patter - By The Loopy Lamb

Looking for a quick crochet blanket that it great for babies and adults alike?  This easy crochet blanket pattern can be worked up in a few evenings and it's always a big hit.  This pattern uses Bernat Blanket Yarn and it is super soft and squishy.  A chevron blanket is a timeless pattern that can be enjoyed for years to come

#blanket #chevronblanket #crochetblanket #freeblanketpattern #blanketpattern #freecrochetpattern #freecrochet #crochet #freecrochetblanket #chevronblanketpattern #bernatblanket #easyblanket #pattern #quickblanket
    This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own.

    There is something timeless and classic about a good chevron blanket. I have made my Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket so many times this year for baby showers that I could probably crochet one in my sleep. This blanket is honestly a huge hit no matter what colour I made it in. I have even made it in colours that I wasn’t particularly drawn to and ended up loving it so much I kept it for my daugther.

    Using Bernat Blanket Stripes yarn, (my go-to blanket yarn) which is a super bulky, size 6 yarn, this blanket works up in a jiffy. I have made one in two evenings or about 6 to 8 hours.

    Pin this for later HERE.

    The blanket is so soft and warm, that it is great to lay baby on for tummy time and the size is big enough that it can be used as a lapghan. Because, let’s be honest, babies need blankets long after their no longer babies. The one at our house is used by everyone on an almost daily basis.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern here (buy now) on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy and help keep my patterns free.

    You only need to know how to chain and single crochet for this blanket so it is super simple. If you can do that and count up to 8, you’re ready to make yourself a Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket. I know you’re excited to get started and now I want to start another one, so let’s get to the pattern.

    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket

    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket Crochet Pattern

    Skill Level: Beginner

    Supplies:
    10 mm hook
    3 balls of Bernat Blanket Stripes in the same colour.  I’m using Teal Deal
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    Finished size: 38” Long by 34” wide

    Gauge: 8 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches

    NOTES: For this pattern, in order to maintain the colour pattern that is created with your first 12 rows, you’ll likely have to deconstruct two of your balls of Bernat Blanket.  If you’re able to get 3 balls of yarn that all start on the same colour, you’ll be able to minimize how much deconstruction that will be needed. 

    CH 97.
    Row 1: SC 2 in the 2nd chain from the hook. *SC in the next 8 CH, skip the next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 3 SC in the next CH*.  Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times.  SC in the next 8 CH, skip next 2 CH, SC in the next 8 CH, 2 SC in the last CH.  CH 1 and turn. (96)

    Rows 2 – 3:  SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*.  Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times.   SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch.  (96)

    You won’t have enough of your starting colour to complete another full row so I recommend cutting your yarn here and reattaching the yarn in the next colour in your ball.  If you don’t want to weave in your ends and don’t mind mid-row colour changes, you can keep going without cutting your yarn.

    Crochet Chevron Blanket made with Bernat Blanket Yarn with a handmade wooden crochet hook on top.
    This is the same pattern made in Bernat Blanket Stripes in the colourway Seashells

    Rows 4 – 6: CH 1 and turn.  SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*.  Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times.   SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch.  (96)

    Change to next colour in your ball.

    Rows 7 – 9: CH 1 and turn.  SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*.  Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times.   SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch.  (96)

    Change to next colour in your ball.

    Crochet Chevron Blanket in Teal


    Rows 10 – 12: CH 1 and turn.  SC 2 in the first stitch. *SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 3 SC in the next stitch*.  Repeat the instructions in the ** 3 more times.   SC 8, skip 2, SC 8, 2 SC in the last stitch.  (96)

    Rows 13 – 48: Repeat Rows 1 – 12, 4 more times.  (96)

    FO and weave in ends. Enjoy your Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like making blankets? Check out the free pattern for my Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket.

    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Patter - By The Loopy Lamb

Looking for a quick crochet blanket that it great for babies and adults alike?  This easy crochet blanket pattern can be worked up in a few evenings and it's always a big hit.  This pattern uses Bernat Blanket Yarn and it is super soft and squishy.  A chevron blanket is a timeless pattern that can be enjoyed for years to come

#blanket #chevronblanket #crochetblanket #freeblanketpattern #blanketpattern #freecrochetpattern #freecrochet #crochet #freecrochetblanket #chevronblanketpattern #bernatblanket #easyblanket #pattern #quickblanket
  • Crochet Patterns

    The Vendbar Tote Bag

    The Vendbar Tote Bag - A Free Crochet Pattern by The Loopy Lamb.

The Vendbar Tote has a wonderful texture, easy colour changes and best of all....it's reversible!  The bag has a totally different and beautiful texture on the inside that is just as beautiful as the "right side".  

#freecrochetpattern #crochettotebag #Crochetmarketbag #Crochetbag #easycrochetpattern #cottonyarn #reversiblebag #reversiblecrochet
    This post may contain affiliate links. This post is sponsored by Hobbii Yarns. All opions are my own.

    I am excited to share with you my latest pattern: The Vendbar Tote Bag. This bag has a wonderful texture on the “right side” and that stitch pattern creates a really cool colour pattern on the “wrong side”. It is seriously hard for me to tell you which side I like more. The seam is nearly invisible on this bag due to the textured stitches. So no matter of The Vendbar Tote Bag which side you prefer, just go with it.

    During the design process, I always try to come up with a name for a project early on. Naming my projects is something I sometimes struggle with because so many names have been used already. While I was designing this bag, I could not come up with a name I was happy with. My husband suggested the Blueberry You-Carry and although it was hilarious, it wasn’t what I was looking for. Then I came up the idea of using a Danish word since Hobbii Yarns is from Denmark. Vendbar means reversible in Danish. So it isn’t the most creative name if I call it The Reversible Tote but it sounds a bit better when it’s called The Vendbar Tote.

    Pin this for Later: Pin This Pattern for Later.

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Woman holding the Vendbar Tote

    The Vendbar Tote Bag

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:

    Get an inexpensive copy of the ad-free, PDF version of both these patterns HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    DC = Double Crochet
    TR = Triple/Treble Crochet
    BLO = Back Loop Only
    FO = Finish Off

    Size: One Size
    Finished size: 14 inches tall at bag’s tallest point (not including handles) x 14.75 inches wide.

    Gauge: 19 sts across x 15 rows (Rows 10 – 23 of bag pattern repeat) = 4” square

    The inside of The Vendbar Tote

    NOTES:

    • Anywhere “join” is indicated it means to join the last stitch of the round to the first stitch of the round with a sl st.
    • This bag is reversible but how you work your TR stitches is vital to making that happen.  When I make my TR stitches (as noted in Row 11), I put my hook through the stitch as normal (under both loops) but I push the stitches of the previous row backwards before I do my YO and pull through the stitch.  This ensures that the working yarn doesn’t wrap around the previous row of stitches.

    Using Colour 76 (Dark Blue), CH 51
    Row 1: In 2nd CH from hook, SCINC.  SC 48, SC 3 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the chain, SC 48.  SC in the last CH. Join last stitch to first stitch with a sl st. (102)
    Row 2: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next.  SC 48, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 48, SCINC in the last st.  Join with a sl st (106)
    Row 3: CH 1. SC, SCINC in the next two stitches. SC 48, SCINC in the next two stitches, SC 1, SCINC in next two stitches, SC 48, SCINC in the last two stitches. Join with a sl st (112)
    Row 4: CH 1. SC, SCINC in the next two stitches. SC 52, SCINC in the next two stitches, SC, SCINC in next two stitches, SC 52, SCINC in the last two stitches. Join with a sl st (122)
    Row 5: CH 1. (SC in the first stitch, SCINC in the next stitch) x 2, SC 54, (SCINC in the first stitch, SC in the next stitch) x 3, SCINC, SC 54, SCINC, SC, SCINC. Join with a sl st (130)
    Rows 6 – 9: CH 1. In BLO, SC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join.  (130)
    Row 10:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 71 (Light Blue)

    Row 11: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join with a sl st.  (130)
    Row 12: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (130)
    Row 13:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Blue Tote Bag, Crochet Tote Bag, Crochet Market Bag, Striped Bag
    The outside of the Vendbar Tote

    Change to Colour 2 (Cream)

    Row 14: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join. 
    Row 15: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 16:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)

    Row 17: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 18: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 19:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 1 (White)

    Row 20: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 21: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 22:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 76 (Dark Blue)

    Row 23: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Rows 24 – 27: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 28:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 71 (Light Blue)

    Row 29: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 30: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 31:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 2 (Cream)

    Row 32: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 33: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 34:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)

    Row 35: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 36: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 37:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)


    Change to Colour 1(White)

    Row 38: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 39: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 40:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 76 (Medium Blue)

    Row 41: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Rows 42 – 45: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 46:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 71(Light Blue)

    Row 47: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 48: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 49:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 2 (Cream)

    Row 50: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 51: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 52:  CH 4 (counts at first stitch and CH 1), skip second stitch and DC in the third stitch. *DC, CH 1, skip 1* until end.  Join the third CH of your CH 4 with a sl st. (130)

    Change to Colour 70 (Medium Blue)

    Row 53: CH 1.  SC in the first stitch.  TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space. *SC in the next stitch, TR in the stitch directly underneath the CH space* repeat til end. Join.  (130)
    Row 54: CH 1.  SC in each stitch around. Join. (130)
    Row 55:  CH 1.  SC 23. CH 78. Skip 34. SC31. CH 78. Skip 34. SC 8.  Join. (62 SCs and 156 chs)
    Rows 56 – 58: CH 1. SC in each stitch and CH around. Join. (218)

    FO and weave in ends.  Enjoy your bag 😊

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like Tote Bags? Check out these free tote bag patterns! The Shoreline Seeker Tote or The Rainbow Saver Tote.

    The Vendbar Tote Bag - A Free Crochet Pattern by The Loopy Lamb.

The Vendbar Tote has a wonderful texture, easy colour changes and best of all....it's reversible!  The bag has a totally different and beautiful texture on the inside that is just as beautiful as the "right side".  

#freecrochetpattern #crochettotebag #Crochetmarketbag #Crochetbag #easycrochetpattern #cottonyarn #reversiblebag #reversiblecrochet
  • Crochet Patterns

    The Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy Patterns

    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.
    This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opions are my own.

    While I was on vacation recently, I found myself without my crojo. Everything I attempted to make didn’t turn out. I kept trying though and eventually the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy were born. Named after the place we vacation, and the place that helped me slow down and relax enough to help me get my crojo back. Comprised of simple stitches, this bag and cup cozy work up quickly and have wonderful texture.

    For this bag, you’ll need to know how to chain, single crochet, single crochet increase, double crochet, slip stitch, half double crochet and crocheting in the third loop.

    Add this to your Ravelry Queue HERE.

    Pin this for later HERE.

    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.

    This bag uses Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn which is a bulky (5) yarn in two different colours. For my bag I used Steel Blue and Clay. You can use your favourite bulky yarn as a substitute for the Bernat Maker Home Dec when making your Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy, but I would recommend using a cotton or cotton blend to minimize stretching.

    Try this cup cozy out on your iced coffee! Although it’s a simple stitch pattern, the chunky yarn gives it a bit of a different look.

    Get an inexpensive copy of the ad-free, PDF version of both these patterns HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.

    The Elgin Cup Cozy Pattern

    Skill Level: Beginner

    Supplies:
    8.0 mm hook
    0.78 oz/22g of Bernat Maker Home Dec in any colour
    Tapestry Needle

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    DC = Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off

    The Elgin Cup Cozy pictured with a beautifully handmade wooden crochet hook and a skein of Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn.

    Size: One Size
    Finished size: 3 inches tall x 4 inches wide.
    Gauge:
    5 sts across x 4 rows = 2” square

    The Elgin Cup Cozy pictured with a beautifully handmade wooden crochet hook

    Pattern

    CH 22.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST, taking care not to twist your CH.
    Row 1: CH 1. SC in the first stitch.  DC in the next st.  (SC 1, DC 1) to end of round.  Join with a SL ST. (22)
    Rows 2 – 8:  CH 1.  (SC 1, DC 1) to end of round.  Join with a SL St. (22)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Keep reading to get the Elgin Tote Bag pattern.

    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.
    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.

    The Elgin Tote Bag Pattern

    Skill Level: Intermediate

    Supplies:
    6.0 mm hook
    8.6 oz/245 g/311 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec in Clay (Main Colour)
    0.5 oz/13 g/17 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec in Steel Blue (Contrasting Colour)
    Tapestry Needle
    Scissors

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    DC = Double Crochet
    FO = Finish Off
    Finished size: Approximately 14.5 inches tall x 15 inches wide.

    Gauge: 13 sts across x 10 rows = 4” square

    Pattern

    Row 1: Using you Main Colour, Ch37.  In 2nd CH from hook SCINC, SC 34, SC 5 in last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 34, SC 3 in last CH. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST and CH 1 (from here on out referred to only as “join”). (78)

    Row 2: (SCINC) x 2 SC 34, (SCINC) x 5, SC 34, (SCINC) x 3. Join. CH 1. (88)

    Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 2, SC 34, (SC 1, SCINC) x 5, SC 34, (SC 1, SCINC) x 3. Join. CH 1.  (98)

    Rows 4 – 7: SC in the first stitch, DC in the next stitch. (SC 1, DC 1) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 8: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 9: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Rows 10 – 12: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1(98)

    Row 13: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 14: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Rows 15 – 17: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1(98)

    Row 18: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1(98)

    Row 19: In 3rd loop, HDC around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 20: in 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Rows 21 – 23: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 24: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 25: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Rows 26 – 28: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 29: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Change to Contrasting Colour

    Row 30: In 3rd loop, (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Rows 31 – 33: (SC, DC) around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 34: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 35: In 3rd loop, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.

    Row 36: In 3rd loop, SC in the first stitch and each stitch around around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Rows 37- 39: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch around. Join. CH 1 (98)

    Row 40: SC 17, CH 70, skip 28, SC 21, CH 70, skip 28, SC 4. Join. CH 1 (42 STS, 140 CHs)

    Row 41: SC in each stitch and chain around. Join. CH 1 (182)

    Row 42: SC in each stitch around. Join.  1 (182)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like tote bag patterns? Check out my free patterns for the Rainbow Saver Tote or Shoreline Seeker Tote.

    Looking for a quick and easy tote bag pattern?  Looking for a cup cozy for regular or iced coffee that works up quickly but still has a lot of texture?  This free crochet pattern for the Elgin Tote and Cup Cozy from The Loopy Lamb is exactly what you're looking for.
  • Crochet Patterns,  Feature Maker

    The Catena Hat by Designs by Diligence

    The Catena Hat - Free Crochet Hat Pattern by Featured Maker Designs by Diligence - Available on The Loopy Lamb Blog.

#catenahat #crochetbeanie #freecrochetpattern #crochetpattern #freehatpattern #ribbedbeanie #crochethat #hatpattern #easycrochethat #easycrochetpattern #crochettoque

    This week I can’t wait to introduce you to Julia Schwartz of Designs by Diligence. Julia is a talented maker living in Kansas and she has shared her great Catena Hat crochet pattern with us this week. I’ve interviewed her so you all can get to know this lovely maker better. The links to Julia’s social media profiles are at the end of the post so please go give her some love and a follow as a thank you for the free pattern.

    Tell me a little bit about yourself.

    I’m a midwest girl who loves to create. I’ve recently just moved back to the midwest after being in Toronto, Canada for the last 5 years. My husband is a preacher at a local church. I also have 2 daughters who also have the creating bug. I love learning new things and teaching so having a blog has been a great fit for me.

    Julia Schwartz of Designs by Diligence

    How long have you been crocheting?

    My mom taught me to crochet when I started college back in 2003. I’m a fidgeter and I picked at my nails so I was looking for something that I could keep my hands busy. When I was a little girl she taught me how to sew so it was a natural progression. A few years later my mother-inlaw taught me how to knit. Knitting was really slow for me and I had a hard time enjoying it. When I moved to Canada I gave knitting another try. After lots of practice I can now say that I’m just as fast on knitting as crochet and I probably knit more now than I crochet. I love that I can use different muscles and hands for each craft. It helps with pain and flexibility when I can switch from one to the other on a given day.

    Are there any other crafts that you enjoy doing?

    I love any and all of the fiber arts. I also like baking and card making. I tell people if I’m using creativity and my hands I probably love doing it.

    What is your favourite thing to crochet?

    A lot of people talk about being process or project oriented when creating. I’m very project oriented. I like to get done and move on to something else, so I tend to do smaller projects. Even with blankets I would much rather make squares and sew them together than just making a giant blanket. With all that said, my favorite makes are hats.

    When did you start pursuing a business as a maker and why?

    Back in 2011, I had just joined Ravelry. I had already been making my own improvised patterns and building on patterns that already existed. There was a call for submissions for a new online crochet magazine called Crochetvolution. I decided to submit something, and the pattern was
    accepted. I worked with the magazine for 2 years and the writing bug struck. I decided to start a blog to put my other ideas and patterns on. I had no idea that people made money from these things and it has been a learning experience since then as I try and make a business out of
    what I love.

    What are your aspirations for your business?

    I don’t have any huge aspirations for my business. In the end I want people to say that I taught them new things and I gave them the desire to try new things. Fiber arts has a huge rich history that I love and I’m just happy to be a part of that. I can’t wait for my girls to grow up and find a love for it too. Through having a business I hope I’m showing them that they can reach and work for what they want and achieve it.

    Model wearing Catena Beanie

    How do you organize yourself and stick to your goals?

    I usually have one crochet project, one knitting project, and one on the go project that I’m working on. I have a weekly schedule that I try and follow so I can publish 2 patterns a month. Sticking to the schedule really helps me focus on the important things that have to get done. For organizing I use secret pinterest boards and google docs to collect my thoughts. I have also
    started using Stitch Fiddle for chart making, that have been a game changer for me when I want to remember ideas. I also try and follow other publishing schedules of the different fiber arts magazines that are out there.

    What tips would you give to someone wanting to start out with a maker business?

    Don’t be afraid of “ oversaturating the market.” Everyone has creativity and has something to bring to the table. You are going to have something new and something that is yours, that alone makes it special.

    What are your biggest struggles as a maker?

    I have a lot of imposter syndrome. Especially when I find a mistake in one of my patterns. I feel terrible, and I wonder why I keep designing. I have to remind myself that I have something to show and I do have a lot of knowledge about fiber arts. Everyone starts somewhere and everyone deserves grace, even myself.

    Where does your inspiration come from?

    I get a lot of inspiration in art in general. I love working with different texture and lines. Lately tile work and rugs have been where I have been getting my ideas from. Also just life in general is inspiration. When there is a need that arises I always think of ways to solve it with yarn.

    What’s your favourite yarn/fibre to work with?

    I just like yarn, but don’t we all. I would much rather work with fingering weight yarn than any other size. I’m pretty in love with any kind of super wash merino wool.

    Who inspires you? Who are your favourite makers?

    For Crochet: Kim Guzman: She is the Tunisian crochet queen. Her youtube videos are my go to when I need to remember how to do something. She is a wonderful advocate of other crochet designers, and I love her crochet group Only Free Crochet Patterns. It’s a no drama no extra group.

    Heather Anderson from the Unraveled mitten: I met her a few years ago in a blogging group. She set her mind to starting a crochet blog and she did it, very successfully. She loves cables and texture just like me.

    For knitting I love the gals from Tin Can Knits. They make beautiful well thought out patterns. Not just their finished products but also their PDFs when you purchase from them you know you are getting high quality work.

    What are your favourite tools?

    I love a well planned out project bag. I like to make big drawstring bags to put my wips in. In each bag I put everything I will need for the project, so the hook, needles, darning needle, measuring tape, printed pattern, stitch markers, scissors, and of course yarn. With that said I have lots of everything and sometimes I still can’t find what I need. The tools that I use more than anything else would be my addi interchangeable set for knitting and crochet. It was an investment but it was well worth it. I use the crochet hooks even when I’m not working on Tunisian projects.

    If time and money were not an issue, what would your dream project be?

    My dream crochet project would be to make the Reminisce Sweater by Heide May, with a Knit Picks Dk. But of course i would find some way to add some texture somewhere.

    Anything else you’d like to tell us about? (i.e. exciting future projects, fun tidbits, etc.)

    I am in the beginning stages of making a CAL for the crochet version of Welsley Hat. The Project will be called the Ansley Hat. The CAL will be hosted on my Facebook page and Instagram, so you can be on the look-out for that. I also live on Pinterest so I would love to follow you.

    Check out the links to find Julia on social media and links to her blog at the bottom of this post! Up next, Julia’s pattern for the Catena Hat.

    You can get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE in Julia’s Ravelry shop.

    Completed project photo

    Catena Hat Crochet Pattern

    Materials Needed

    Bernat Softee Baby 100% acrylic, 4.25 oz./ 120 g., 310 yrds/ 283 m.
    Hook: 4.00 mm, US G/6
    Tapestry needle

    Size: Adult (21 inches)
    Gauge: 18 hdc x 14 rows = 4 in/ 10 cm 

    Stitches Used: Chain (ch), Half Double Crochet (hdc), Slip Stitch (sl st), Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc), Front Post Double Crochet 2 together (fpdc2tog)

    Notes:
    ● This hat is worked flat using short rows.
    ● Testers made a note that the fpdc stitches liked to pull the fibric tight. To keep gauge keep your fpdc stitches loose and pull them up to meet the height of the current row.

    Row 1: Ch 37, sk 1 ch, hdc in each chain for a total of 36 hdc.
    Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 35 hdc.
    Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in the next 33 sts. (34 hdc)
    Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc in the next 3 sts, make a fpdc around the 6th hdc of row 2, sk1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 hdc of the current row, make a fpdc around the 6th hdc of row 2, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts. (31 hdc, 2 fpdc)
    Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sl st into the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 31 sts. (32 hdc)
    Row 6: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of row 4, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 5 hdc of the current row, fpdc around the fpdc of row 4, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 22 sts. (29 hdc, 2
    fpdc)
    Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in each of the same st as the last sl st, hdc in the next 29 sts. (30 hdc)
    Row 8: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of row 6, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 hdc of the current row, fpdc around the fpdc of row 6, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts. (27 hdc, 2
    fpdc)
    Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in each of the same st as the last sl st, hdc in the next 27 sts. (28 hdc)
    Row 10: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, fpdc2tog around the 2 fpdc of row 8, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 20 sts, (26 hdc, 1 fpdc2tog)
    Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts. (26 hdc)
    Row 12: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the right post of the fpdc2tog of row 10, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the left post of the fpdc2tog of row 10, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 18 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 hdc (those skipped at the ends of the previous rows). (24 hdc, 2 fpdc, plus 10 hdc at the end= 36 sts)
    Row 13: Ch 1 turn, sl st into the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 34 sts. (35 hdc)

    Close up of the post stitches on the Catena Hat

    Row 14: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, fpdc around fpdc of row 12, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 5 hdc of current row, fpdc around fpdc of row 12, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 25 sts. (32 hdc, 2 fpdc)
    Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 32 sts. (33 hdc)
    Row 16: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, fpdc around the fpdc of row 14, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 hdc of the current row, fpdc around the fpdc of row 14, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 23 sts. (30 hdc, 2 fpdc sts)
    Row 17: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 30 sts. (31 hdc)
    Row 18: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, fpdc2tog around each of the fpdc of row 8, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 23 sts, (29 hdc, 1 fpdc2tog)
    Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sl st into each of the next 2 hdc, ch 1, hdc in the same st as the last sl st, hdc in each of the next 28 sts. (29 hdc)
    Row 20: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the right post of the fpdc2tog of row 18, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, fpdc around the left post of the fpdc2tog of row 18, sk 1 st, hdc in each of the next 21 sts, hdc in each of the next 10 hdc (those skipped in the previous rows). (36 sts)
    Continue, repeating rows 13- 20 4 more times.

    At the end of row 52, finish off leaving a long tail. Using the long tail, whip stitch the two edges together to form the hat. Cinch closed the opening at the top of the hat. Weave in your ends.

    Enjoy your finished Catena Hat!

    Copyright: Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact Julia.diligence@gmail.com

    Want to know where to find this talented maker? You can find Julia and Designs by Diligence at the links below:

    Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/julia-schwartz
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/julia.diligence/
    Facebook:www.facebook.com/designsbydiligence
    Pinterest:www.pinterest.com/diligence
    Blog:www.designsbydiligence.com

    Want to meet some other talented makers? Check out the features for Osage County Crochet and Sharky Knows Crochet!

    The Catena Hat - Free Crochet Hat Pattern by Featured Maker Designs by Diligence - Available on The Loopy Lamb Blog.

#catenahat #crochetbeanie #freecrochetpattern #crochetpattern #freehatpattern #ribbedbeanie #crochethat #hatpattern #easycrochethat #easycrochetpattern #crochettoque
  • Crochet Patterns

    Flamin-To-Go Cup Cozy Pattern

    The Flamin-to-go Cup Cozy - Free Crochet Pattern by The Loopy Lamb.  This fun flamingo cup cozy crochet pattern is easy, quick and accessible for beginners.  

#flamingo #flamingocupcozy #cupcozy #coffeecozy #crochet #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #beginnercrochetpattern #crochetcoffeecozy #crochetflamingo #animalcupcozy
    This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post and all opinions are my own.

    Flamingos are really popular this summer and I can’t resist them. I came up with the flamingo cup cozy because I wanted a cute cup cozy that was a little goofy at the same time. This is a beginner crochet pattern but you’ll need to know amigurumi basics like working in a continuous round and single crochet increasing to make the beak. So let’s cut the squawking and get down to making this cute flamingo cup cozy.

    The skills you’ll need in order to be able to complete this cozy are:
    Chain, Single crochet, Half Double Crochet, Slip Stitch, Single Crochet Increase, working in the Back Loops Only (BLO) and colour changes. You’ll also need to know how to sew on some buttons and weave in your ends.

    This cozy makes a great gift for others (and yourself! *wink*) and works up quick for markets, craft fairs and etsy shops.

    An ad-free PDF version of this pattern can be found HERE on Etsy and HERE on Ravelry.

    Skill Level: Beginner

    Supplies:

    3.5 mm hook
    4 mm hook
    Red Heart Super Saver in Flamingo (0.6 oz/32 yards), Black (0.15 oz/8 yards) and White (0.4 oz/2.5 yards)
    Tapestry Needle
    Stitch Marker
    9mm Black Mushroom/Shank Buttons
    Polyester Stuffing

    Flamingo Cup Cozy

#flamingo #flamingocupcozy #cupcozy #coffeecozy #crochet #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #beginnercrochetpattern #crochetcoffeecozy #crochetflamingo #animalcupcozy

    Abbreviations:
    CH = Chain
    ST = Stitch
    SC = Single Crochet
    SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    HDC = Half Double Crochet
    SL ST = Slip Stitch
    BLO = Back Loops Only
    FO = Finish Off

    Size: One Size
    Finished size: 2.5 inches tall x 4 inches wide. Measurements do not include beak.

    Cup Cozy Gauge: 6 rows x 9 stitches x 2” square
    Beak Gauge: Not important as long as the same tension is maintained throughout.

    Flamingo Cup Cozy

    NOTES: The end of each row of the cup cozy is joined to the first stitch of the row with a sl st.
    The beak is worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of each round.  A stitch marker is utilized to mark the beginning of each round and is moved up with each new round.

    Flamin-To-Go Cup Cozy Pattern

    Coffee Cozy Body

    Using 4mm hook and Flamingo, CH 35 and join with a sl st to the first CH, taking care not to twist.

    Row 1: CH1.  HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around.  Join with a sl st. (35)
    Rows 2 – 8: CH1.  HDC in the first stitch and in each stitch around.  Join with a sl st. (35)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Beak

    Row 1: Using Black and 3.5mm hook, MC 6 (6)
    Row 2: SC around (6)
    Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 2 (8)
    Row 4: SC around (8)
    Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 2 (10)
    Row 6: SC around (10)
    Row 7: (SC 4, SCINC) x 2 (12)
    Row 8: SC around (12)
    Row 9: (SC 5, SCINC) x 2 (14)
    Change to white
    Row 10: In BLO, SC around (14)
    Row 11: (SC 6, SCINC) x 2 (16)
    Row 12: SC around (16)
    FO leaving a long tail and sew onto the cozy.  Sew the beak onto the cozy.

    The Flamin-to-go Cup Cozy - Free Crochet Pattern by The Loopy Lamb.  This fun flamingo crochet pattern is easy, quick and accessible for beginners.  

#flamingo #flamingocupcozy #cupcozy #coffeecozy #crochet #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #beginnercrochetpattern #crochetcoffeecozy #crochetflamingo #animalcupcozy

    Assembly

    Sew the eyes on to the cozy into the row above there the top of the beak is with 5 stitches in between them

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Like Cup Cozies? Try my Sloth Coffee Cozy Pattern too.

    The Flamin-to-go Cup Cozy - Free Crochet Pattern by The Loopy Lamb.  This fun flamingo cup cozy crochet pattern is easy, quick and accessible for beginners.  

#flamingo #flamingocupcozy #cupcozy #coffeecozy #crochet #crochetpattern #freecrochetpattern #beginnercrochetpattern #crochetcoffeecozy #crochetflamingo #animalcupcozy
  • Crochet Patterns,  Feature Maker

    Derek The Dinosaur by Sharky Knows Crochet

    This week I can’t wait to introduce you to Charlotte of Sharky Knows Crochet! Charlotte is a talented maker living in Dubai and she has shared her ADORABLE Derek Dinosaur crochet pattern with us for free this week. I’ve interviewed her so you all can get to know this lovely maker better. The links to Charlotte’s social media profiles are at the end of the post so please go give her some love as a thank you for the free pattern.

    Tell me a little bit about yourself. 

    Hi, I’m Charlotte! I live in Dubai with my husband and two young children. I used to live in Devon in the UK but have been living in Dubai for 6 years now.

    Charlotte of Sharky Knows Crochet

    How long have you been crocheting?

    I have been crocheting for about 12 years.

    Are there any other crafts that you enjoy doing?

    When I was at school I studied textiles and had a wonderful teacher. It was at school that I developed my skills as a dress maker and went on to make bridesmaid dresses for family weddings including my own, and also some for customers. I do love a sewing machine! As well as dress making, I like making cards, patchwork quilts, all sorts really! I always have some sort of project on the go.

    How did you learn to crochet?

    I was taught to crochet by my mother in law. I think it was one of the first weekends I had stayed with them and was interested by the crochet and knitting work she was doing. I was too impatient for knitting so gave crochet a go. I picked it up pretty quickly and never really stopped after that!

     What is your favourite thing to crochet?

    I love making amigurumi. I think creating animals is fun as they seem to develop a character of their own. There is also an instant appreciation of cuddly toys from children which helps. Its so nice to see my sons little face light up when he sees what I have made.

     When did you start pursuing a business as a maker and why?

    My Sharky Knows business kind of developed slowly while I was a stay at home mum. I had all this desire to create and make beautiful things but only so much space in our apartment! So I just started slowly selling bits and pieces I was making and eventually it got more and  more popular. By selling my makes it makes me feel a bit more useful by bringing a bit of extra income to the family. Being a stay at home mum can be hard sometimes and crochet is my way of keeping my personality and a hobby to focus on; my ‘Me’ time.

     What are your aspirations for your business?

    The next target for Sharky Knows is to start producing and sharing my own patterns. As I make the majority of my products to order, I am often creating my own original designs to meet client’s briefs. So I would like to take this to the next step and share those designs with others. 

     How do you organize yourself and stick to your goals?

    Erm… sometimes I don’t feel very organized! I have 3 or 4 different notebooks with lists of orders, ideas, to do’s etc in. I always put my custom orders first, as this is my bread and butter. I am always coming up with ideas i want to try out and this is often my summer job – when the kids can be entertained a bit by family. Crochet is a really creative process so often happens in bits and pieces for me.

     What tips would you give to someone wanting to start out with a maker business?

    Find your niche, find something you love doing otherwise it will feel like a chore if the orders come rolling in. Also try to take up every opportunity you can, however small it may feel, as you never know what might happen from it.

     What are your biggest struggles as a maker?

    TIME. Being a stay at home mum to a 2 year old toddler and 7 year old who is at school, time is always a problem. Sneaking in crochet when I can, as well as all the other responsibilities that come with being a mum. You will often find me sat on the living room floor, wooden train in one hand, crochet hook in the other!

     Where does your inspiration come from?

    My children have also been a big inspiration to my work. Their favourite animals often creep in there and if they like my finished product then to me it’s a job well done.

     What’s your favourite yarn/fibre to work with?

    I have recently started using Alize cotton gold and gold plus which is great for amigurumi. It has vibrant bright colours which are perfect for creating fun creatures. For my blankets and loveys I really like Nako Saten yarn. It is so soft and again comes in beautiful colours. Its quite tricky to get interesting yarns in Dubai, most come from Turkey. However there is definitely a growing community of knitters, crocheters and yarn dyers.

     Who inspires you?  Who are your favourite makers?

    I have found Instagram an amazing place to find really diverse makers. Some of my favourites are Irene Strange, Oz and Belle, Airali Design, Le Petit Saint Crochet and Hello woolen.

    Back of Derek the Dinosaur

     What are your favourite tools?

    I am a creature of habbit. I used the same aluminium size 3.5mm crochet hook for years… now I have moved onto a 4mm handled one my mother in law got me and a cheap colourful set of different sizes I bought on ebay. I am not fussy about what I use, as long as its comfy and does the job!

    If time and money were not an issue, what would your dream project be?

    I really want to create a series of Arabian themed characters and animals. Living in the middle east and meeting so many different people has inspired me to try this. At the moment the inspiration behind my planned projects is coming from where I live – Dubai. It’s such a multicultural place and so interesting! There are many iconic images from the Middle East, I’m thinking camels, Arabian oryx, elegant abayas and crisp white Kandoras!  So fingers crossed! Anything else you’d like to tell us about? (i.e. exciting future projects, fun tidbits, etc.

    Derek the Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

    Details

    Derek measures approximately 23cm tall. For a larger size try using a chunky yarn and a larger crochet hook.

    Materials:

    DK Yarn in 3 colours – I used Eco Cotton.
    Black yarn/thread for eyes or safety eyes
    3mm Crochet hook
    Toy stuffing (polyester stuffing)
    2 Buttons
    Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends
    Scissors

    Abbreviations (U.S. standard terms)
    Ch – Chain
    SC – Single Crochet
    Inc – increase by SC 2 into next stitch
    Dec – decrease by inserting hook into front loop of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through all loops.
    DC – Double Crochet
    YO – Yarn Over
    ST – Stitch
    Number of stitches in ()

    Special stitches: DC Cluster
    Yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, (yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 more times. Yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

    HEAD

    Row 1: Using your main colour, make a magic circle and SC 6 into the magic circle (6)
    Row 2: SC inc in each stitch (12)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SC inc) repeat 6 times (18)
    Row 4: (SC 2, SC inc) repeat 6 times (24)
    Rows 5 – 10: SC in each stitch around (24)
    Row 11: (SC inc, SC 1) repeat 5 times, SC inc, SC in next 13 stitches (30)
    Rows 12 – 17: SC in each stitch around (30)
    Row 18: (SC 4, dec) repeat 6 times (24)
    Row 19: (SC 3, dec) repeat 6 times (18)
    Row 20: (SC 2, dec) repeat 6 times (12)
    Row 21: (SC 1, dec) repeat 6 times (6)
    Place safety eyes or embroider eyes onto row 11 where the head increases and sew two little crosses for the nose. Stuff Head. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    EARS (Make 2, in Main colour)

    Row 1: In magic ring, SC 6 (6)
    Row 2: SC in each stitch (6)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SC inc) repeat 3 times (9)
    Row 4: SC in each stitch (9)
    Fasten off, leaving long ends and attach to the head.

    Derek’s head once ears are attached.

    LEGS (In Main colour)

    Row 1: In magic ring, SC 6 (6)
    Row 2: SC Inc in each stitch (12)
    Row 3: (SC1, SC Inc) repeat 6 times (18)
    Row 4: In back loops only, SC in each stitch (18)
    Row 5 – 10: Sc in each stitch (18)
    Fasten off and stuff. Make second leg in the same manner but keep yarn attached.

    Derek the Dinosaur's - Completed Leg
    Derek the Dinosaur’s – Completed Leg
    Derek the Dinosaur's Body - Round One
    Derek’s Body – Round 1
    Derek the Dinosaur's Body - Round Two
    Derek the Dinosaur’s Body – Round Two

    BODY(In main colour)

    Row 1: Chain 2, SC into a stich on the top of the 1st leg, SC into each remaining stitch of the 1st leg, SCinto 2 chains, SC into each stitch of the 2nd leg, SC into other side of 2 chains. (40)
    Rows 2 – 5: SC in each stitch (40)
    Row 6: (SC 6, dec) repeat 5 times (35)
    Rows 7 – 9: SC in each stitch (35)
    Row 10: (SC 5, dec) repeat 5 times (30)
    Rows 11 – 19: SC in each stitch (30)
    Row 20: (SC 4, dec) repeat 5 times (25)
    Rows 21 – 26: SC in each stitch (25)
    Row 27: (SC 3, dec) repeat 5 times (20)
    Row 28: (SC 2, dec) repeat 5 times (15)
    Row 29: (SC 1, dec) repeat 5 times (10)
    Stuff body and fasten off, leaving a long end. Close top by weaving end through the 6 stitches. Use this yarn to sew the head to the body.

    ARMS(Make 2 in Main colour)

    Row 1: In Magic ring, SC6 (6)
    Row 2: SC Inc in each stitch (12)
    Row 3: SC 1, DC Cluster into next stitch (makes thumb), SC into next 10 stitches (12)
    Rows 4 – 18: SC into each stitch (12)
    Fasten off, leaving long ends to sew onto the body.

    TAIL (In main colour)

    Row 1: In magic ring, SC 6 (6)
    Row 2: SC in each stitch (6)
    Row 3: (SC1, SC Inc) repeat 3 times (9)
    Rows 4 – 6: SC in each stitch (9)
    Row 7: (SC 2, SC Inc) repeat 3 times (12)
    Rows 8 – 11: SC in each stitch (12)
    Row 12: (SC 3, SC Inc) repeat 3 times (15)
    Rows 13 – 16: SC in each stitch (15)
    Row 17: (SC 4, SC Inc) repeat 3 times (18)
    Rows 18 – 20: SC in each stitch (18)
    Fasten off and leave long end. Stuff tail and attach to the body, centeredon the back between the legs.

    SPIKES (Make 6, in colour 2)

    Row 1: In magic ring, SC 6 (6)
    Row 2: SC in each stitch (6)
    Row 3: (SC 1, SC Inc) repeat 3 times (9)
    Row 4: SC in each stitch (9)
    Fasten off, stretch into shape and attach to dinosaur. Spread the 6 spikes out along the head, body and tail.

    BOW TIE (In colour 3, worked in rows)

    Row 1: Chain 12, SC into each chain starting with 2nd chain from hook. (11)
    Rows 2 – 3: Chain 1, turn, SC across in each stitch (11)
    Fasten off and sew in ends.

    Row 1: Chain 7, SC in each chain starting with 2nd chain from hook. (6)
    Fasten off with a long end. Wrap small piece around the bigger one to create the bow, sew ends of smaller piece together to secure. Attach to body.

    Pieces of the bow tie
    Pieces of Derek’s Bow Tie
    Derek the Dinosaur's Bow Tie
    Completed Bow Tie

    Attach 2 small buttons to the body, underneath the bow tie.

    Close up shot of Derek the Dinosaur's wooden buttons
    Close up shot of Derek the Dinosaur’s buttons

    Want to know where to find this talented maker? You can find Charlotte and Sharky Knows Crochet at the links below:

    Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/sharkyknowscrochet/
    Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/sharkyknowscrochet/
    Shop:  https://saffronsouk.com/shop/handmadebysharkyknows/

    Like amigurumi patterns? Check out my patterns for Clawdia Cat or Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal!