• Crochet Patterns

    Picot Single Crochet Ear Warmer & Cowl Set

    Smiling woman wearing the Picot Single Crochet Stitch Ear Warmer and Cowl Set
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I’m so excited to share with you my brand new ear warmer and cowl free crochet pattern. This project uses picot single crochet stitch to create tiny little bobbles on the surface of the project that give it a fun texture without the weight of real crochet bobble stitches. They are quick and fun to make and I just love the way that they look.

    This project uses a yarn that is relatively new to me but had me falling head over heels at first stitch: We Crochet Swish Worsted. For this pattern, I used the colouway Wonderland Heather and it is absolutley beautiful. It has the subtlest heathering and it is crazy soft. It is currently available in 33 different colours and I can’t wait to see what colours you all choose to use! Check out my review of this yarn HERE.

    Pin this Free Crochet Ear Warmer and Cowl Set Pattern for later SAVE

    For this project, I use a special crochet picot stitch called the picot single crochet stitch. This stitch modifies the single crochet stitch to add the CH 3 of a picot in the middle of the stitch. After finishing this stitch, a single crochet is placed in the next stitch which helps keep the picot stitch grounded so to speak and the picot stick out from the fabric. I find doing picot stitches like this to be quick and easy.

    Because of the way that this picot stitch used in this project is created, your work will not have straight edges right away. Your work will look like a rectangle that leans to one side. That’s normal and totally fixable. To fix this issue, you just need to block your project. I steam block almost everything so I just place my project on the foam mats and pin the piece so the edges are straight. Then, I steam it and let it dry. Wet blocking would probably be best for this project but, if you’re impatient to wear this, steam blocking will still work too.

    work in progress picture of the picot single crochet ear warmer

    This pattern is part of the Stitch & Hustle Perfect Picot Blog Hop that is generously being sponsored by We Crochet. Find the beautiful free crochet patterns of the other participants here:

    Mamas2Hands.comJosephine Clochehttps://mamas2hands.com/2020/09/25/josephine-cloche-crochet-pattern/
    The Loopy LambPicot Me Up Ear Warmer and Cowl Sethttps://www.theloopylamb.com/2020/09/25/picot-single-crochet-stitch-ear-warmer-and-cowl-set/
    Underground CrafterSleepy Sunrise Amigurumihttps://undergroundcrafter.com/2020/09/25/perfect-picot-blog-hop-sleepy-sunrise-amigurumi/
    The Stitchin’ MommyTropical Sunset Fingerless Mittshttps://www.thestitchinmommy.com/2020/09/tropical-sunset-fingerless-mitts-free-crochet-pattern.html
    Erica DietzPicot Edge Scarfhttps://www.5littlemonsters.com/2020/09/picot-edged-scarf.html
    Sincerely PamContessa Cropped Pulloverhttps://www.sincerelypam.com/contessa-cropped-pullover-crochet-pattern
    Love.life.yarnSimple Crochet Baby Bonnethttps://lovelifeyarn.com/simple-crochet-baby-bonnet/
    Crystalized DesignsKoKo Cocoon Cardiganhttps://www.crystalized-designs.com/koko-cocoon-cardigan-free-crochet-pattern/
    Briana K DesignsPicot Crochet Shawl Free Patternhttps://brianakdesigns.com/picot-crochet-shawl-free-pattern/
    Detroit KnotsHayloft Capelethttps://detroitknots.wordpress.com/?p=305
    Stitch & HustleAtlantic Waves Shawlhttps://www.stitchandhustle.com/free-patterns/atlantic-waves-shawl-free-crochet-pattern
    Oombawka Design CrochetSeptember Mandalahttps://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2020/09/september-mandala-pattern.html
    MooglyPicot Trip Cowlhttps://www.mooglyblog.com/picot-trip-cowl/
    2 Bossay Knits / Michelle TharpesSummer Citrus Wraphttps://seriousasshookersblog.weebly.com/
    Joy of Motion CrochetDiagonal Sunset Wraphttps://joyofmotioncrochet.com/diagonal-sunset-wrap-free-crochet-pattern
    ACCROchetBoxed inhttps://www.accrochet.com/stitch-hustle-blog-hop/

    We’re also holding a MASSIVE giveaway in which FIVE (5) winners will be selected to win the yarn to make 3 of the projects included in the blog hop. This giveaway has been generously sponsored by We Crochet. The prize groups are below. This giveaway is open world wide and you need only enter the giveaway one to be entered for all prize packs! Entry form is included below the prize pack list.

    Prize Pack One
    Mamas2Hands.comJosephine Clochehttps://mamas2hands.com/2020/09/25/josephine-cloche-crochet-pattern/
    Love.life.yarnSimple Crochet Baby Bonnethttps://lovelifeyarn.com/simple-crochet-baby-bonnet/
    Underground CrafterSleepy Sunrise Amigurumihttps://undergroundcrafter.com/2020/09/25/perfect-picot-blog-hop-sleepy-sunrise-amigurumi/
    Erica DietzPicot Edge Scarfhttps://www.5littlemonsters.com/2020/09/picot-edged-scarf.html
    Prize Pack 2
    The Loopy LambPicot Me Up Ear Warmer and Cowl Sethttps://www.theloopylamb.com/2020/09/25/picot-single-crochet-stitch-ear-warmer-and-cowl-set/
    Sincerely PamContessa Cropped Pulloverhttps://www.sincerelypam.com/contessa-cropped-pullover-crochet-pattern
    Detroit KnotsHayloft Capelethttps://detroitknots.wordpress.com/?p=305
    Prize Pack 3
    Crystalized DesignsKoKo Cocoon Cardiganhttps://www.crystalized-designs.com/koko-cocoon-cardigan-free-crochet-pattern/
    Briana K DesignsPicot Crochet Shawl Free Patternhttps://brianakdesigns.com/picot-crochet-shawl-free-pattern/
    The Stitchin’ MommyTropical Sunset Fingerless Mittshttps://www.thestitchinmommy.com/2020/09/tropical-sunset-fingerless-mitts-free-crochet-pattern.html
    Prize Pack 4
    Stitch & HustleAtlantic Waves Shawlhttps://www.stitchandhustle.com/free-patterns/atlantic-waves-shawl-free-crochet-pattern
    Oombawka Design CrochetSeptember Mandalahttps://oombawkadesigncrochet.com/2020/09/september-mandala-pattern.html
    MooglyPicot Trip Cowlhttps://www.mooglyblog.com/picot-trip-cowl/
    Prize Pack 5
    2 Bossay Knits / Michelle TharpesCitrus Wraphttps://seriousasshookersblog.weebly.com/
    Joy of Motion CrochetDiagonal Sunset Wraphttps://joyofmotioncrochet.com/diagonal-sunset-wrap-free-crochet-pattern
    ACCROchetBoxed inhttps://www.accrochet.com/stitch-hustle-blog-hop/
    a Rafflecopter giveaway

    Learn how to do the Picot Single Crochet Stitch in my Tutorial Below:

    Picot Me Up Ear Warmer and Cowl Set

    Crochet earwarmer and cowl set lain out in a flat lay with coffee, yarn and a furls crochet hook

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies For Crochet Ear Warmer:

    Supplies For Crochet Cowl

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:


    Special Stitches:

    • Picot Single Crochet: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over hook and pull through stitch.  Yarn over and pull through one loop on the hook three times.  Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. (Find the tutorial HERE).


    Finished Ear Warmer Size:

    • Adult – 19.5” Long (before seaming) by 4.5” wide

    Finished Cowl Size:

    • 24.75” Long (before seaming) by 8.5” wide

    Gauge:

    • 15 HDC sts x 12 rows of pattern ST = 4 inches

    Notes:

    •  This pattern is worked back and forth in rows in a flat panel and then is seamed together at the short ends. 
    • The completed projects will slant to the right and appear to not have straight edges.  This is caused by the Picot Single Crochets shifting the work to the right.  This project must be blocked in order to straighten the edges to provide a clean, straight seam which also makes seaming the project together easier.
    • Instructions given in ** are to be repeated for the indicated number of repeats or the instructions provided next to the **


    Picot Me Up Ear Warmer Pattern


    Row 1: FHDC 75 or CH 76 and HDC in each ST across, starting in the 2nd CH from the hook. (75)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (75)
    Row 3:  CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (75)
    Row 4:  CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (75)
    Row 5:  CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (75)

    Picot Me Up Crochet Ear Warmer made using Picot Single Crochet Stitch
    Smiling woman wearing a crochet ear warmer


    Row 6: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (75)
    Row 7: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (75)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (75)
    Row 9: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (75)
    Row 10: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (75)
    Row 11: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (75)
    Rows 12 – 13: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (75)

    FO and leave a long tail to seam the ear warmer together.  Block your work using your preferred blocking method. 

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Woman looking down wearing a crochet ear warmer and cowl set

    Finishing Your Ear Warmer:

    Lay your ear warmer right side up in front of you.  Pick the short ends together, right sides touching. 

    Step one of closing up the crochet ear warmer

    Place the ends inside each other so they overlap about an inch.  Make sure your tail is on the outside. 

    closing up the ear warmer step 2

    Thread your tapestry needle on the long tail left when finishing off and sew back and forth through all four layers going through the edge stitches. 

    Sewing the closure - Step 3

    When done, take the unfinished parts pictured and sew them together end to end. 

    showing the unfishing parts of the crochet ear warmer to seam.

    When done seaming FO and weave in ends.  Turn your ear warmer right side out and you’re all set. 

    Finishing the seaming of the ear warmer closure.

    Picot Me Up Cowl Pattern:

    Row 1: FHDC 95 or CH 96 and HDC in each ST across, starting in the 2nd CH from the hook. (95)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 3:  CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (95)
    Row 4:  CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 5:  CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (95)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 7: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (95)

    Woman looking over the top of a crochet cowl with picot single crochet stitch bobbles


    Row 8: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 9: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (95)
    Row 10: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 11: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (95)
    Row 12: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 13: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (95)
    Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (95)
    Row 16: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 17: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (95)
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 19: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (95)
    Row 20: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)
    Row 21: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the 1st ST, *CH 1, SK 1, HDC* repeat until end of row.  (95)
    Row 22: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)

    flat lay image of crochet cowl with a bobble texture made using picot single crochet stitch.


    Row 23: CH 1 and turn.  *SC in the first ST and PSC in the next ST* across until 1 ST remains.  SC in the last ST. (95)
    Rows 24 – 25: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across. (95)

    FO and leave a long tail to seam the cowl together.  Block your work using your preferred blocking method.  Thread your tapestry needle on to the yarn tail and seam the two short ends of the cowl together using mattress stitch or your preferred seaming method.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    While you’re here, don’t forget to check out some of my other great free crochet patterns. If you like cowls and earwarmers, you may be interested in these:

    Please follow and like us:
  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Flamingo Pattern for Flikka Flamingo

    crochet flamingo made with faux fur yarn sitting upright
    This free crochet flamingo pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Flamingos have been pretty popular recently and when We Crochet came out with a pink colourway of the Fable Fur yarn that I love, I knew I was going to use it to make a free crochet flamingo pattern. Flikka Flamingo is a baby flamingo that just begs to be cuddled. This pattern uses basic shaping and stitches so it can be made quickly and easily.

    This free crochet flamingo pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    Pin it for later Save

    Flikka Flamingo’s head, neck and body are made in a single piece and the wings are made separately. The legs and beak are made with worsted weight yarn in separate pieces. The pieces work up quickly and you’ll have a finished crochet flamingo in no time.

    Pink Fable Fur with the crochet flamingo made with this free crochet pattern

    If you haven’t used faux yarn to crochet amigurumi before, free crochet flamingo pattern is a great pattern to finally give it a try. Faux fur yarn is incredibly forgiving so if you don’t have the tidiest seaming when putting your toy together, no one can tell. The fur hides it all and still looks great. Check out my tips and tricks for using faux fur yarns in the video below (or find the write up HERE) so you can hit the ground running. If you’re looking to give faux fur yarns a try, I recommend using Fable Fur from WeCrochet (found HERE). It’s my favourite faux fur yarn as it has a thick strap on the back of the yarn which helps you feel the stitches, even if you can’t see them.

    If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here: Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth, Otis the Owl and Salty the Seal.

    Flikka Flamingo sits up on his own with the assistance of a weighted base made with Poly Pellets/weighted beads added to the bottom of the body. You can find the written tutorial for how to create a base for your amigurumi project using Poly Pellets HERE or watch the video below.

    Flikka’s legs are not stuffed to make it easier for him to sit up on his own. I think the floppy legs just make him silly and fun. You can choose to stuff his legs if you wish but it may affect how well he sits.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this crochet seal pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    Special Stitches

    SC3TOG/ SC Three Together: Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch.  Two loops on hook.  Insert hook into second stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch.  Three loops on hook.  Insert hook into third stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch. Four loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull all four loops on hook.  Stitch completed.


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12.5” Tall from tips of feet to top of head

    Gauge:

    • Faux Fur Sections: 2 sts x 2 rows = 1 inch
    • Leg and Beak: 6 sts x 6 rows = 1 inch

    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.  Find my tutorial on how to do this HERE.
    • Gauge is not critical to the project but it may affect the amount of yarn needed.
    • A weighted base is added to the bottom of the flamingo to assist it with sitting up on its own.  This is optional but may affect whether the toy can sit up on its own.  Find a tutorial on how to create a weighted base for your toy HERE.

    Free Crochet Flamingo Pattern for Flikka Flamingo

    Close up of the face of the crochet flamingo

    Beak

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Black, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: SC around (12)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 5) x 2 (14)
    Round 5:  SC around (14)
    Round 6: (SCINC, SC 6) x 2 (16)
    Round 7: SC around (16)
    Change to White
    Rounds 8 – 12: SC around (16)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto face.  Add some stuffing to the nose and sew onto face between eyes.

    Head & Body

    Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur in Volpe, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4:  SC 1 (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC (24)
    Rounds 5 – 10:  SC around (24) – Place safety eyes in Round 6 with 4 STS between them.
    Round 11: SC 1 (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC (18) – Start adding stuffing.  Adding a bit more each round.
    Round 12: (SCDEC, SC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 13 – 16: SC around (12)
    Round 17: (SCINC, SC) x 6 (18)
    Round 18: SC 1 (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC (24)
    Rounds 19 – 24: SC around (24)  – If using a weighted base, add it to the body at the end of Round 24.
    Round 25: SC 1 (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC (18)
    Round 26: (SCDEC, SC) x 6 (12) – Finish stuffing.
    Round 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and use the tail to close up the whole.  Weave in ends.


    amigurumi flamingo made with faux fur yarn

    Legs (Make 2)

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Black, CH 9. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and the next 6 CHS.  SC 3 in the last CH.  Working up the other side of the chain, SC 6, SCINC in the last CH (18)
    Round 2: SC in each ST around (18)
    Round 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6 (24)
    Rounds 4 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6 (18)

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Rounds 8 – 9: SC around (18)
    Round 10: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 6 (12)
    Round 11: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 6 (9)
    Round 12:
    SCDEC, SC 7 (8)
    Rounds 13 – 31: SC around (8)
    Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto bottom of the body.  Do not stuff.  Sew the legs onto the bottom of the body.

    crochet flamingo sitting on a ledge

    Wings (Make 2)

    Row 1: Using Volpe and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 3 into the MC.  (3)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. SCINC, SC, SCINC. (5)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (5)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SCINC, SC 3, SCINC (7)
    Rows 5 – 7: CH 1 and turn.  SC across (7)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC (5)
    Row 9: CH 1 and turn.  SCDEC, SC, SCDEC (3)
    Row 10: CH 1 and turn. SC3TOG (1)

    Place a wing on either side of the body, with the pointed end facing the back of the bird.  Sew onto body and add stuffing between the wing and the body before closing up and finishing off.


    Your Flikka Flamingo is now complete! I hope you enjoyed this free crochet flamingo pattern! If you like flamingos, you may want to check out my Flaming-to-go Flamingo Cup Cozy Pattern or my free flamingo crochet pattern round up. Find a listing of all my free crochet patterns HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Please follow and like us:
  • Crochet Patterns,  Feature Maker

    Free Crochet Doll Pattern by Craftings of Joules

    Amigurumi doll and reindeer made with this free crochet doll pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    This week I’m excited to share a free crochet doll pattern from Julia Chiang of Craftings of Joules named Violet the Schoolgirl Doll. Julia is sharing this free pattern with you all today as part of my Featured Maker Program which aims to introduce you to other designers and help you get to know them a bit better.The links to Julia’s social media profiles are at the end of the post so please go give her some love and a follow as a thank you for the free crochet doll pattern.

    Julia Chiang of Craftings of Joules holding a cat
    Julia Chiang of Craftings of Joules

    Hi! I’m Julia, a yarn obsessed college student who drinks a little too much tea and reads anything and everything! I began my amigurumi journey this past winter with a small amigurumi whale, and I haven’t stopped since. My favorite things to crochet are dolls (as you see here) and animals, as well as the odd amigurumi food! Aside from crochet, I also love making modular origami stars to create hanging galaxies in my room

    Tell me a little bit about yourself. 

    I’m a college student based in Massachusetts with a deep love of books and creating things with my hands. Ever since I was little, I’ve enjoyed any kinds of arts and crafts that are tactile in some way—be it working with clay, building Legos, or origami. Funnily enough, I’ve never had too much interest in 2D art like drawing or painting. It might be because I have less of a natural proclivity for it, but as a strong believer in practice over talent, I think it must just be because I love the feeling of creating tangible objects more.

    Origami stars hanging from string made by Julia Chiang of Craftings of Joules
    Origami Stars made my Julia

    How long have you been crocheting?

    I picked up crocheting relatively recently, just over half a year ago. Interestingly, I’ve known about amigurumi for a long time and had been too intimidated to try for a long time, even though I adored the end result.

    Are there any other crafts that you enjoy doing?

    I’ve dabbled in many forms of art over the years, but my main creative outlet for the longest time was origami. Paper crafts are beautiful and the geometric shapes that can be created out of crisp paper and sharp folds are almost incomprehensible to the eye, the reason why I have been fascinated with them for so long. Similar to crocheting, origami is made out of one element, which can be endlessly manipulated to become a 3D creation, or a part of a larger whole.

    How did you learn to crochet?

    I first discovered crochet and amigurumi when I came across the most adorable stuffed bears online during a school break. At first I was convinced that I could never learn how to make anything as complicated-looking as amigurumi, but the very next day I went to Michael’s and picked out my first crochet hook and ball of yarn. After a few days of failure and restarts, I finished my first amigurumi— a little blue whale! Even though it was far from pretty, it was enough to make me fall in love with the craft.

    What is your favourite thing to crochet?

    If you haven’t picked it up already, my favorite things to create are amigurumi! They are the reason why I first learned to crochet, and honestly I still see garments and home decor items as the icing on top of the crochet cake. The ability to create any kind of plushie is magical to me, and the limits of yarn are almost endless. As someone who has long been a follower of patterns (whether origami or amigurumi), the ability to turn the tables and be an artist through yarn is also especially empowering. I also just think that amigurumi are really cute, and appreciate that they are relatively quick to make compared to the weeks-long projects that clothing items tend to be.

    When did you start pursuing a business as a maker and why?

    I started pursuing a business as a designer four short months ago in the middle of the summer. I had started sharing patterns on Instagram and wanted to create a larger platform to showcase my work, as well as be able to write more detailed descriptions about my creative process. In the past I have started multiple blogs oriented around writing and books, so starting a blog around my new favorite past time was not a huge stretch of the imagination.

    What are your aspirations for your business?

    My business is still in its early stages, but currently I’m mainly focused on building a larger readership so that I can reach more people with my patterns. I would love it if someday my blog were to be able to sustain at least my yarn-buying habits, if not become a serious side job.

    What tips would you give to someone wanting to start out with a maker business?

    I would advise them to make a serious commitment to investing time and effort into building it up from the start. I often see that on Instagram many crocheters and makers run their accounts casually and set up an Etsy shop on the side, which is totally fine, but if one really wanted to start a business I would recommend that they jump into the deep end head first. It’s difficult enough to establish yourself when you’re giving 100%, so make the commitment to learn how to use different social media platforms, take really professional photos, and go the extra mile with each blog post.

    What’s your favourite yarn/fibre to work with?

    I tend to use DK or sport weight yarn because I mainly create amigurumi. Using lighter weight yarn allows me to create lots of fine details while making sure that the amigurumi doesn’t accidentally turn out humongous. The way I think of it, each stitch is like a pixel on a screen: the more pixels you have, the higher definition the screen ends up being! Of course, this is only true for amigurumi. When making garments honestly I would rather use the fluffiest yarn imaginable just so that I could finish more quickly!

     Who inspires you?  Who are your favourite makers?

    All About Ami is one of my main inspirations because I love the style of her amigurumi designs. She brings so much heart and grace to her work and makes me feel so inspired to do the same.

    Apart from her, @amiguruku and @helloladyellie on Instagram are my favorite makers because of the sheer cuteness of both of their works. The amount of detail and effortless perfection in their creations always blows me away!

    If time and money were not an issue, what would your dream project be?

    I’d love to try making a giant amigurumi out of super bulky yarn! This is definitely something within my grasp, but I just haven’t found the perfect design yet. I think it would be so funny to have a giant and mini version of one of my patterns!

    Anything else you’d like to tell us about?

    In the near future, I’m hoping to create a series of mythological figures out of dolls! I study classics in college, so I’m really excited to be able to reimagine 2000 year old characters in cute plushie form. In less esoteric news, I’m also looking forward to creating a collection of Asian snacks to celebrate both my heritage and love of food 🙂

    You can get an ad-free PDF version of this free crochet doll pattern HERE in Julia’s Etsy shop.

    crochet doll wearing a purse next to a wicker basket
    Voilet the Schoolgirl Doll Free Crochet Doll Pattern

    Free Crochet Doll Pattern: Violet the Schoolgirl Doll

    Abbreviations (US):

    Special Techniques:
    Invisible Finish Off: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.

    Tools and Materials:

    Technical Notes:

    1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
    2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
    3. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
    4. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
    5. Use sewing pins to secure limbs of the amigurumi before you sew them.
    6. Always use the invisible decrease and invisible finish off (described above).

    Important: Note that this pattern calls for a 2.5 mm hook (except for hair). If you choose to use a larger sized hook, then be prepared for the doll to be oversized​. ​According to this pattern, this doll is 6.5 inches tall (17 cm).

    Voilet the schoolgirl doll made with this free crochet doll pattern

    Legs:​ (in skin color yarn) ​x2

    R1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
    R2: (sc2, inc) x2 (8 sts)
    R3-11 (9 rounds): sc all around (8 sts)

    Invisible finish off. Make another leg identically but do not finish off or cut the yarn. Stuff both legs lightly, using the back of crochet hooks or chopsticks to push fiberfill inside.

    Connect legs: ch2 off of the first leg, sc all around second leg (8 sts), sc 2 in the chains between legs, sc all around original leg (8 sts) (20 sts total)

    Continue from connected legs to make body:

    crochet doll body that's part of this free crochet doll pattern

    Body (in skin color yarn)

    R1-8 (8 rounds): sc all around (20 sts)
    Begin stuffing.
    R9: (sc8, dec) x2 (18 sts)
    R10: sc all around (18 sts)
    R11: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)

    Finish stuffing. Finish stuffing using the back of crochet hook to push fiberfill in, and finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

    Head:​ (in skin color yarn)

    R1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
    R2: inc x6 (12 sts)
    R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
    R4: (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)
    R5: (sc3, inc) x6 (30 sts)
    R6: (sc4, inc) x6 (36 sts)
    R7: (sc5, inc) x6 (42 sts)
    R8-15 (8 rounds): Sc all around (42 sts)

    crochet doll body without arms or face

    If you wish to, place 6.0 mm safety eyes between round 10 and 11 (middle of head), 7 stitches apart. However, I suggest placing safety eyes at the very end if you don’t mind not being able to secure the safety eyes to be able to arrange the face more easily.

    R16: (sc5, dec) x6 (36 sts)
    R17: (sc4, dec) x6 (30 sts)
    R18: (sc3, dec) x6 (24 sts)

    Finish stuffing.

    R19: (sc2, dec) x6 (18 sts)
    R20: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
    Cut yarn, leaving a short tail. Using a needle, thread the yarn through all 6 stitches in the last round, and pull it tight so the opening closes like a drawstring bag. Finish off and weave in the end.

    Arms​: (in skin color yarn) ​x2

    R1: sc6 in MR (6 sts)
    R2-12 (11 rounds): sc all around (6 sts)

    Do not stuff. Invisible finish off and weave in ends, leaving a tail for sewing. Attach arms to the left and right of the body.

    crochet doll arms
    body of a crochet doll

    Dress (top half):

    (in white) ​worked in turned rows until R7. Chain 1 and turn at the end of each row until then.

    R (row) 1: FSC 18, chain and turn (18 sts)
    R2: (sc2, inc) x6, chain and turn (24 sts)
    R3: (sc3, inc) x6, chain and turn (30 sts)
    R4: (sc4, inc) x6, chain and turn (36 sts)
    R5: sc6, ch6, sk6, sc12, ch6, sk6, sc6, chain and turn (36 sts)
    R6: sc6, sc3 in the chains, sc12, sc3 in the chains, sc6 (30 sts)


    Put what you have so far on the doll by fitting the arms in the armholes, with the opening at the back of the doll. Cut the yarn and sew the dress closed. Begin crocheting (by making a standing crochet stitch) at the seam and begin round 7, crocheting in the round (no longer in rows).

    in continuous roundsR7-8 (2 rounds): sc all around (30 sts)

    The yarn I used (Lion Brand Babysoft) was significantly thinner than the yarn I used for the body section, so if you use the same weight of yarn as the body you may need to stop here and move on to the next section. If the yarn you’re using is also relatively thin (see picture below), then continue.

    R 9-10 (2 rounds): sc all around (30 sts)

    unfinished amigurumi doll pattern
    Front View
    back view of the amigurumi doll
    Back View



    Dress (skirt):​ (in light purple)

    R1: (sc2, inc) x10 (40 sts)
    R2-5 (4 rounds): sc all around (40 sts)
    R6: (sc3, inc) x10 (50 sts)
    R7-9 (3 rounds): sc all around (50 sts)

    If the yarn you used for the skirt is equal weight to the body, then you may want to stop here. If not, then finish this pattern because the yarn I used for the lower part of the skirt was particularly thin.

    R10-12 (6 rounds): sc all around (50 sts)

    Invisible finish off. Weave in end.

    Sleeves:​ (in white)

    R1: work standing crochet stitch in left arm hole and crochet all around (9 sts)
    R2-4: sc all around (9 sts)
    Invisible finish off. Weave in ends, and repeat on the right side.

    Hair:

    Use hook 0.5-1.0 mm bigger and hair color yarn The hair is going to be built from a circle 24 stitches around, with hair strands coming from that circle. If you refer to the diagram, you can see that the circle is split into 2 sections (A and B). We will begin at the beginning of section A, which comprises 6 of the 24 stitches of the circle, and move on to section B, completing the circle around.

    Circle:

    R1: sc6 in MR (6sts)
    R2: (inc) x6 (12 sts)
    R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
    R4: (sc2, inc) x6 (24 sts)

    Invisible finish off, and weave in end. Make standing crochet stitch/Attach the yarn anywhere in the round to begin crocheting hair.

    Section A: Strands 1-6 (6 strands): ch 20, sc 19 back (beginning from second chain from hook), sl st in next stitch.

    Section B:

    Strands 7-24 (9 strands): ch21, hdc 19 (beginning from third chain from hook), slst x2

    ● This section only has 9 strands but covers 18 stitches in the round because each strand covers 2 stitches in the circle (because of the two slip stitches).

    drawing of how to do the doll hair made with this free crochet doll pattern

    Cut yarn and weave in the end. To create straight hair, block hair by pinning it down on a foam mat and using a steam iron and leaving it overnight to dry. If you don’t have a steam iron, you can just soak it in water and lay it out to dry. Different blocking methods can be found ​here​.
    After blocking, pin the circle on top of the doll’s head. Half of section A is to the left of the doll’s face, and the other half is to the right. Pin down each of the hair strands and create texture by putting the strands directly in front of the dolls face over the hair on either side. Either sew or glue the hair down to the head with craft glue.

    Crossbody bag:​ (in dark purple) ​worked in turned rows

    R1: FSC 3, ch, turn. (3 sts)
    R2-7 (6 rows): Sc all across, ch, turn (3 sts)

    Fold in half and sew down the sides to close the purse. Ch 30 from one side of the purse to create the strap and sew the strap end to the other side of the purse.

    Final touches:

    1. Insert 6.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10-11, 7 sts apart
    2. Embroider a nose one row below the eye line, covering two stitches.
    3. Embroider eyebrows directly above the eyes using one ply of brown yarn (pull yarn apart into separate plies) or embroidery thread. The eyebrows are diagonals, 3 stitches across and one up. The bottom of the eyebrow is 3 rows above the eye (and the top of the eyebrow is 4 rows above).
    4. Embroider pink lines one row below eyes (across two stitches) for blush.

    Violet the Schoolgirl Doll is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found this free crochet doll pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #craftingsofjoules and tagging me @craftingsofjoules. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at craftingsofjoules@gmail.com. Happy crocheting! ♥

    Find Julia on Social Media!

    You can find some of Julia’s other work and give her a thanks for the free crochet doll pattern on the sites below:

    Blog: craftingsofjoules.com
    Instagram: @craftingsofjoules

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this free crochet doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to Julia Chiang of @craftingsofjoules when posting online.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use her photos when selling your finished items.   

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Hair Scarf Pattern

    Collage of images showing the free crochet hair scarf made using this pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I don’t know about you but when the weather is hot, my hair is always up in a bun or ponytail. Who am I kidding? It’s an all-year-round thing for me. But during the summer/fall those little flyaways feel much more noticeable. Maybe it’s because in the winter I’m always wearing a beanie? I don’t know. But the reality is, a little bit of time outside or a car trip with the windows open and what may have started as a good hair day has turned into frizzy bad hair day. My solution: a crochet hair scarf. So I whipped myself up a crochet hair scarf and now I’m here to share with you my Berry Good Hair Day Crochet Hair Scarf Pattern. Now, all days can be a good hair day.

    Pin this Free Crochet Hair Scarf Pattern for later SAVE

    Smiling woman wearing a crochet hair tie

    When I picked the yarn for this project, I wanted it to do two things. One, be something that was light and flexible/drapey AND I wanted it to be a quick project for someone that might not have tried working with fingering weight yarn yet because they thought working with fingering yarn would take forever. I had some beautiful Hawthorne Fingering Handpaint Speckle yarn in Berry Cobbler in my stash and so I decide this yarn would be fantastic. It’s got great stitch definition, great drape, cost effective and you get get two crochet hair scarves from one hank. If you haven’t tried this yarn before, check out my Hawthorne Fingering Hand Paint Speckle Yarn review HERE.

    I hope I didn’t lose you at fingering weight yarn. Because, this realy is a quick project. I’ve included two different sizes – there’s a thin scarf that’s about 2.25″ wide and a wide scarf that’s about 4.25″ wide. I got both of these from a single hank of Hawthorne Fingering Weight yarn and still had some left over. I was able to make the thin scarf in about an hour and a half. And I am SLOOOOOOOOOWW crocheting and have kids interrupting me every two minutes asking if my project is for them or if they can have their 37th snack for the day. So if you’re a beginner or intimidated by working with fingering weight yarn, this is the perfect project for getting your feet wet and giving it a try. I put off working with fingering weight yarn forever thinking it would take me my whole life to make anything and I get bored if a project takes me too long. So I thought it wouldn’t be for me. Once I tried it, I was hooked! I am OB-SESSED now and although, worsted weight will always be my favourite, I’ve definitely been adding more fingering weight yarn to my stash because I just love working with it.

    Ways to Wear your Crochet Hair Scarf

    Crochet Hair scarf tied in a woman's hair

    I have never been the fashionista that can tell you a dozen different ways to tie a scarf and make you look sassy and fiece. No. I’m the girl that looks like she got into a fight with her scarf and lost. So, thanks to creativity and my friend Google, I have a couple of suggestions and some of them aren’t even for your hair. How’s that for versatility? Some ways you can wear/style your Berry Good Hair Day Crochet Hair Scarf:

    • Tie it at the back of your head
    • Tie it around your ponytail/messy bun. This can be done once, letting the tails dangle or wrapped around multiple times.
    • Wrap it around the handle of your purse. It looks fun/stylish and you’ll have it with you in case you need it
    • It can be used as a short scarf and tied around your neck
    • Tied on top of your head in a knot with the ends tucked in

    How will you wear yours? Let me know in the comments below so everyone can share different ways to style their crochet hair scarves.

    Berry Good Hair Day Crochet Hair Scarf

    Close up image of a crochet project using hawthorne fingering weight yarn and a furls crochet hook.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    close up image of the eyelets on this free crochet hair scarf pattern.


    Abbreviations:


    Finished Size:

    • Wide Scarf: 48” Long at longest point x 4.25” wide
    • Thin Scarf: 45“ Long at longest point x 2.25” wide.

    Gauge:

    • 19 sts x 12.25 rows = 4 inches

    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked back and forth in rows
    • Matching gauge is vital to ensuring your project turns out to be the expected size.
    • CH 3s at the begging of each row count as a ST.
    • Instructions contained within ** are to be repeated the number of times indicated next to the **.
    • CHs are counted as STS in the ST count at the end of each row.

    Image showing the different in the two different crochet hair tie sizes available in this pattern.
    Berry Good Hair Day Crochet Hair Scarf in two different sizes

    Pattern:

    For Both Sizes:
    Row 1: FDC 190 or CH 192 and DC in the 3rd CH from the hook and each CH across (190)
    Row 2: CH 3 and turn. DC in the first ST and next 2 STs.  CH 2, SK 2, *DC 7, CH 2, SK 2* x 20, DC 4, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (192)
    Row 3: CH 3 and turn.  DC in the first ST, *DC 5, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2* x 21, DC, DCINC in the top of the CH 3.  (194)

    flat lay of crochet hair tie and a furls crochet hook, scissors and crochet accessories.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.


    Row 4: Ch 3 and turn.  DC in the 1st ST, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 2 in the CH SP, DC 5, CH 2, SK 2* x 20, DC 2 in the CH SP, DC 8, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (196)
    Row 5:
    CH 3 and turn. DC in the 1st ST, DC 9, CH 2, SK 2, DC 2 in the CH SP, *DC 5, CH 2, SK 2, DC 2 in the CH SP, * x 20, DC, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (198)
    Row 6:  CH 3 and turn. DC in the 1st ST, DC 4, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 5, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2* x 20, DC 8, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (200)
    Row 7: CH 3 and turn.  DC in the 1st ST, DC in each ST and DC 2 in each CH SP across, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (202)

    Hawthorne fingering handpaint speckle crochet project close up with a furls crochet hook

    For Thin Scarf size, finish off and weave in ends.  For Wide Scarf size, continue until end. 

    Row 8:  CH 3 and turn. DC in the 1st ST, DC 5, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 7, CH 2, SK 2* x 21, DC 4, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (204)
    Row 9: CH 3 and turn. DC in the 1st ST, DC 3, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 2 in the CH SP, DC 5, CH 2, SK 2* x 21, DC 2 in the CH SP, DC 6, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (206)
    Row 10: CH 3 and turn.  DC in the 1st ST, DC 9, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 5, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2 * x 21, DC 2, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (208)


    Row 11:  CH 3 and turn. DC in the 1st ST, DC 3, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 5, DC 2 in the CH SP, CH 2, SK 2* x 21, DC 10, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (210)
    Row 12: CH 3 and turn. DC in the 1st ST, DC 9, CH 2, SK 2, *DC 2 in the CH SP, DC 5, CH 2, SK 2* x 21, DC 2 in the CH SP, DC 6, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (212)
    Row 13: CH 3 and turn.  DC in the 1st ST, DC in each ST and DC 2 in each CH SP across, DCINC in the top of the CH 3. (214)

    FO and weave in ends.

    I hope you enjoyed making your Berry Good Hair Day Crochet Hair Scarf! Don’t forget to tag my on social media so I can see your finished projects. I love seeing and sharing them. If you like free crochet patterns, you may be interested in some of my other patterns here as well:

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll Outfit – Molly The Mermaid

    Doll wearing a crochet doll outfit including a halter top and mermaid tail.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Recently, I hosted a crochet along for an amigurumi doll named My Dolly Molly. We had so much fun making our dolls and I loved seeing everyone’s personalization of their dolls. Some people made their dolls shoes, hats, dresses, shorts and more. It was so much fun. Soon after starting, people started to request more outfits for Molly. I decided to take a poll and there was an overwhelming response from the group that they wanted more patterns for outfits. I’m all about giving you guys exactly what you want so I got to work on making a new crochet doll outfit for Molly. My daughter specifically requested for her doll to have a mermaid tail so I figured that would be a great way to get started.

    As mentioned above, this crochet doll outfit is an extension/addition to my amigurumi doll pattern My Dolly Molly. You can find the free version of the doll pattern on my blog in 3 parts – Part One, Part Two and Part Three. Each part of the pattern has a free video tutorial that accompanies it on my YouTube channel. If you’re interested in having the full pattern for My Dolly Molly at once, free of ads, it can be purchased for a small fee in both my Ravelry and Etsy shops.

    Pin it for later Save

    To make this crochet doll outfit, you’ll need a worsted weight yarn in two different colours. For this project, I used Brava Worsted yarn from We Crochet in the colours Celestial (blue) and Dublin (green). My testers used some really fun different colours for their mermaids and I cannot wait to see what you all come up with. If you’re sharing pictures on social media, I’d love to see them. You can tag me using @theloopylamb or #theloopylamb on Instagram. If you’ve got a suggestion for another outfit for Molly, let me know in the comments below.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Crochet Doll Outfit – Mermaid Molly

    Crochet doll with a removeable mermaid tail outfit

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FLO = Front Loop Only
    • FO = Finish Off
    • WS = Wrong Side
    • RS = Right Side


    Finished size:

    • Mermaid Tail: 6” long from tip of tail to top of tail x 6 inches around.  5.5” across fins when laid flat
    • Top: 1.5” tall in front of top x 6 inches around

    Gauge:

    • 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This outfit is an extension of my My Dolly Molly pattern and is designed to fit a My Dolly Molly doll. The free version of the My Dolly Molly Pattern can be found HERE.
    • This pattern is worked in joined rounds (unless stated otherwise).  A stitch marker is recommended to keep track of the beginning of the rounds.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • To put the top on Molly, put Molly feet-first through the top and tie the straps behind her neck. 
    • The mermaid tail will fit snuggly on Molly’s hip and is secured in the back using a 9 mm button and a loop created in row one of the tail.
    Crochet doll wearing a blue halter top


    Top


    Row 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight in Celestial and a 3.5mm (E) crochet hook, CH 4. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (3)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  SCINC, SC, SCINC (5)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST across (5)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn. SCINC, SC 3, SCINC (7)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn.  SCINC, SC 5, SCINC, CH 20.  Join to first ST with a SL ST taking care not to twist the CH (9 STs & 20 CHs)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC in each CH and ST across. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (29)
    Rows 7 – 8:
    CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST across. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (29)
    FO and weave in end.

    Back view of the halter top of the crochet doll outfit pattern


    Top Trim

    Round 1: With RS facing you, attach yarn in any of the STs of Row 5 in the back of the top.  SC in the same ST you attached your yarn to and each ST up to the top right-hand corner of the piece.  When you reach the corner, CH 41.  SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook and back up the CH until you reach the body of the top again. SC in each of the 3 STs across the top of the top.  CH 41.  SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook and up the CH until you reach the body of the top again and SC around the rest of the top.  Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  FO.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back view of the mermaid tail, on the crochet doll - part of the two piece crochet doll outfit.




    Mermaid Tail

    Row 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight in Dublin and a 3.5mm (E) crochet hook, CH 36. SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each CH across. (30)
    Rows 2 – 5:  CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST across. (30)
    Rows 6 – 21:  CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST across. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (30)
    Row 22: CH 1 and turn. (SC 4, SCINC) x 6. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (36)
    Row 23: CH 1 and turn. (SC 5, SCINC) x 6. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (42)
    Row 24: CH 1 and turn. (SC 6, SCINC) x 6. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (48)
    Row 25: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC, SC 7) x 6.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (54)
    Row 26: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (54)
    Row 27: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, (SC 8, SCINC) x 5, SC 4.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (60)
    Rows 28 – 30: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (60)  
    Place a stitch marker in STs 30 and 31 of Round 30.

    Fin Tip 1

    Row 31: CH 2 and SL ST into ST 31 of Row 30.  SC into the same ST as the SL ST.  SC 29, SCDEC across the CH 2.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (31)
    Row 32: CH 1 and turn.SCDEC, (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (25)
    Row 33: CH 1 and turn.SCDEC, SC 23. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (24)
    Row 34: CH 1 and turn.  (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12, (SCDEC) x 3. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (18)
    Row 35: CH 1 and turn.  SC around. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (18)
    Row 36: CH 1 and turn. (SCDEC, SC) x 6.  DO NOT JOIN. The remaining rows will be worked without turning. (12)
    Row 37: SC around (12)
    Row 38: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO.  Using the tail, weave the tail through the FLO of the last round to close up the whole.  Weave in the end.

    Close up image of the mermaid doll tail

    Fin Tip 2

    Attach yarn in ST 30 of Round 30.
    Row 1: With WS facing you, SC in the same ST you attached the yarn to.  SC 29, SCDEC across the CH 2 SP.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.   (31)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn.SCDEC, (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (25)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.SCDEC, SC 23. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (24)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12, (SCDEC) x 3. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (18)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn.  SC around. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (18)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. (SCDEC, SC) x 6.  DO NOT JOIN.  The remaining rows will be worked without turning. (12)
    Row 37: SC around (12)
    Row 38: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO.  Using the tail, weave the tail through the FLO of the last round to close up the whole.  Weave in the end.  Sew the button onto the back of the mermaid tail, at the top, across from the loop created in row one.

      
    That’s it’! I hope you enjoyed this crochet doll outfit to make Mermaid Molly! I’d love to hear any requests you may have for new free crochet doll outfits you’d like to see. Leave me a comment in the comment section below if you have any suggestions.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet doll outfit!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Dog Pattern – Henley the Hound

    Brown Crochet Puppy begging for a treat with a text overlay indicating this is a free crochet dog pattern.
    This post may contain affiiate links.

    This free crochet dog pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

    I am so so excited to share with you my free crochet dog pattern for Henley the Hound. Henley is a sweet and playful puppy that is just begging to be played with. Henley is a crochet dog that is sitting on his hind quarters and is holding his paws up to ask for a treat or for someone to play with him.

    Dogs have always been a big part of my life and I have wanted to design a free crochet dog pattern for the blog but didn’t want it to be like a doll. I had made a few different attempts but I didn’t like any of them enough to keep so I’d always end up frogging it and starting again. When I saw the ball of We Crochet Brava Worsted yarn on my shelf in Brindle, I was inspired to try again. I really love this colour and decided it would be a great colour for a dog. It was my husband’s suggestion to make Henley’s ears and tail in a darker brown and I couldn’t be happier with how he’s turned out. I hope you’ll love him too.

    Pin this Free Crochet Dog Pattern for Later Save

    This free crochet dog pattern is suitable for intermediate crocheters or adventurous beginners. Henley is designed to be able to stand up on his own. The placement of the thighs, feet and tail provide some assistance for him to stand up which is further aided by the use of poly pellets in the base of Henley’s body. Poly pellets are plastic pellets that add weight to your project. The poly pellets are placed in a nylon stocking to prevent them from falling out of the toy through the stitches. This is an optional step however, if you choose not to use them, it may make Henley a bit less stable/less able to stand up on his own.

    Amigurumi dog with some Clover USA Crochet tools looking up at a ball of purple yarn.

    The tools I used in this project were generously supplied by Clover USA. I used their Clover Amour Crochet hooks, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needle, Locking Stitch Markers and Patchwork Mini Scissors. All of these tools have become part of my go-to toolbox. All of these tools are really great quality and enjoyable to use. Locking stitch markers are an absolute necessity (in my opinion) when making amigurumi and these stitch markers never disappoint. I never realized what a game changer a bent tip tapestry needle could be until I tried them. If you do amigurumi projects regularly, then I definitely recommend checking them out.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee  HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Back view of the amigurumi dog made with this free crochet pattern and some Clover USA tools.

    Free Crochet Dog Pattern for Henley the Hound

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FLO = Front Loop Only
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished Size:

    • Approximately 8.5” tall x 4.5” wide across the hips


    Gauge:

    • 9 sts x 11 rows = 2 inches – Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.

    Pattern:


    Notes:

    • This project is worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
    • Work the SL STs in the arms loosely so that you are able to work into them when adding future rows.
    • Henley is designed to be able to stand up on his own. The placement of the thighs, feet and tail provide some assistance for him to stand up which is further aided by the use of poly pellets in the base of Henley’s body. Poly pellets are plastic pellets that add weight to your project. The poly pellets are placed in a nylon stocking to prevent them from falling out of the toy through the stitches. This is an optional step however, if you choose not to use them, it may make Henley a bit less stable/less able to stand up on his own.

    Head

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6  – 10:
    SC around (30)
    Round 11: (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 14 (36)
    Round 12: (SCINC, SC 3) x 5, SCINC, SC 15 (42)
    Round 13: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 14 (48) – Place eyes in STS 10 and 25 of Row 13
    Rounds 14  – 15:  SC around (48)
    Round 16: (SCINC, SC 5) x 5, SCINC, SC 17 (54)
    Rounds 17 – 23:  SC around (54)
    Round 24:  SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 8, SC 2 (45)
    Rounds 25 – 26: SC around (45)
    Round 27: SCDEC,(SC 3, SCDEC) x 8, SC 3 (36) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing after each round.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 28: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30)
    Round 29: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 30: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6 (18)
    Round 31: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 32: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and weave the tail through the FLO of the last round to close the hole. Weave in end.

    Close up image of the nose and face of the crochet toy made with this free crochet dog pattern.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Body

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Rounds 8  – 26: SC around (42)
    Round 27: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 28: SC around (36) – If using Poly Pellets, add them to the nylon stocking. Secure the top with a knot (or your preferred method) and place it in the bottom of the body now.  Start stuffing, adding a bit more every couple of rounds.  Make sure to stuff around the Poly Pellet pack.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 29: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30)
    Round 30: SC around (30)
    Round 31: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6. (24)
    Round 32: SC around (24)
    Round 33: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1. (18)

    Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST and FO leaving a long tail to sew the head onto the body. Sew body onto head. For a playful look, sew the head slightly off center/leaned to one side.  Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head.  Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.

    Brown amigurumi dog standing up and begging for a treat

    Left Arm

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2 (12)
    Round 3:  SC around (12)
    Round 4: SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3 (16)
    Rounds 5 – 8: SC around (16)
    Rounds 9 – 12: In FLO, SL ST 8, working back under both loops, SC 8 (16) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every couple of rounds.  Stuff firmly.
    Rounds 13 – 18: SC around (16)
    Round 19: SC 7, (SCDEC) x 4, SC (12)
    Round 20:
    SC around (12)
    Round 21:
    SC 6, (SCDEC) x 3 (9)
    Round 22: SC 5, (SCDEC) x 2 (7)

    FO leaving a long tail that’s long enough to close the top of the arm and sew it onto the body. Use the tail to whip stitch the top of the arm closed.

    Right Arm

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2 (12)
    Round 3:  SC around (12)
    Round 4: SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3 (16)
    Rounds 5 – 8: SC around (16)
    Rounds 9 – 12: In FLO, SL ST 8, working back under both loops, SC 8 (16) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every couple of rounds.  Stuff firmly.
    Rounds 13 – 18: SC around (16)
    Round 19: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 8, SCDEC (12)
    Round 20:
    SC around (12)
    Round 21:
    (SCDEC) x 3, SC 6 (9)
    Round 22: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 5 (7)

    FO leaving a long tail that’s long enough to close the top of the arm and sew it onto the body. Use the tail to whip stitch the top of the arm closed.  The ends of the arms are angled to fit flush with the sides of the body this is the part that will lay next to the body (see image below).  In the image below, is the left arm and I’m pointing out the part of the arm that should be lain next to the body when sewing onto the dog.  Sew left arm onto the left side of the body and sew the right arm onto the right side of the body, angling the paws upwards towards the chin.  Making one paw slightly lower than the other gives it a playful look.  Using sewing pins to pin the arms onto the body first will help you ensure your arms are in a place you are happy with and hold them in place while you’re sewing them on.

    Left arm of Henley the Hound – This picture shows the part of the arm that should lay flat against the body when sewing the arms to the body.



    Ears (Make Two)

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Sienna and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 8:
    SC around (30)
    Round 9: SCDEC, SC 13, SCDEC, SC 13 (28)

    Close up image of the dark brown ear on the dog toy made with this free crochet dog pattern.


    Round 10: SC around (28)
    Round 11: SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 12 (26)
    Round 12: SC around (26)
    Round 13: SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 11 (24)
    Round 14: SC around (24)
    Round 15: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC, SC 10 (22)
    Round 16:  SC around (22)
    Round 17: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 7, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 7 (18)
    Round 18: SC around (18)
    Round 19: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 5, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 5 (14)
    Round 20: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 3, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 3 (10)

    Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.
    FO leaving a long tail that’s long enough to close the top of the ear and sew it onto the head. DO NOT STUFF.  Use the tail to whip stitch the top of the ear closed. Sew an ear onto either side of the head, lining the tops of the ears to be in line with the center of the eyes.

    Feet (Make Two)

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 2, SC 2, (SCINC) x 2, SC 2 (12)
    Round 3:  SC around (12)
    Round 4: SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 1, SCINC, SC 3 (16)
    Rounds 5 – 9: SC around (16)
    Round 10: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 10 (13)
    Round 11: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 7 (10) – Add stuffing to the foot. Stuff firmly.  Do not add any more stuffing to the foot beyond this point.
    Rounds 12 – 16: SC around (10)
    Round 17: (SCDEC) x 5 (5)

    FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Weave the tail through the FLO of the last round to close the hole.  Flatten the part of the foot that was not stuffed.  This part will lay flat against the bottom of the body.  Pin the feet to the body and wait to sew them on until after both thighs are completed.



    Thighs (Make Two)

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 8:
    SC around (30)

    Round 9: SCDEC, SC 13, SCDEC, SC 13 (28)
    Round 10: SC around (28)
    Round 11: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 10, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 10 (24)
    Round 12: SC around (24)
    Round 13: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 8, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 8 (20)
    Round 14: SC around (20)
    Round 15: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 6, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 6 (16)
    Round 16:  SC around (16)

    Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew piece to body. Flatten the piece (it will naturally want to curve) and pin around the outside of the piece to either side of the lower part of the body, lining the bottoms of the piece up with the outside edge of each foot.  Use the tail to sew the thigh around the outside of the thigh piece, to the body and add a bit of stuffing between the thigh and the body before closing it up.  Sew along the bottom of the thigh to the foot.  This will help it look like it’s all one piece.  Use the tail on the foot to sew the foot to the bottom of the body.  Repeat with the other thigh/foot.

    Step one of the leg application process for this free crochet dog pattern
    Step two of the leg application process for this free crochet dog pattern

    Tail

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Sienna and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 4 into the MC. (4)
    Round 2: SC around (4)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC) x 2 (6)
    Round 4: SC around (6) – Start stuffing.  Adding more stuffing after each few rows.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 5: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8)
    Rounds 6 – 8: SC around (8)
    Round 9: (SC 3, SCINC) x 2 (10)
    Rounds 10 – 26: SC around (10)

    Close up image of the amigurumi dog tail

    Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail for sewing.  Stand your dog upright and place the tail near the bottom of the base, at the back of the dog so it rests on the table and assists the dog in standing upright on its own.  Sew to the base using the tail of yarn left from finishing the tail.

    Nose

    Thread a tapestry needle with black embroidery thread and knot the ends together.  Pull the needle through a stitch near the back of the head and out through the center of the magic circle in the front of the head, pulling the knot into the dog’s head to hide it.  Start to embroider the nose in a rounded triangular shape, working into Round 3 of the head and bringing the thread back out through the magic circle of the head.  Work over this section until you have a filled in shape that resembles an upside down triangle with a rounded edge.  The outside edges of my nose line up with the outside edges of the eyes.  FO and weave in end. 

    Close up image of the embroidered nose on the amigurumi dog



    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Henleys made with this free crochet dog pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

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  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern

    crochet christmas gnome wearing a knobbly red hat surrounded by Christmas decorations
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    When it comes to making crochet Christmas gifts, you’ve got to start early. It requires a lot of planning in order to get everything done in time to get your crochet gifts under the tree. (If you need help planning, check out my Holiday Gift Project Planner article and download the free tracker to get yourself on-track for Christmas gift making). But, if I’m honest, Christmas sneaks up on me EVERY. YEAR. And despite my best intentions, I always end up changing the plan last minute or falling behind. When I designed this crochet christmas gnome free pattern, I kept that in mind. I know I’m not the only one that wants to whip up something fun and unique for Christmas each year but it needs to happen fast. So, Gnorman Gnome was created.

    Pin it for later Save

    Gnorman Gnome’s base is made with faux fur yarn (I used Fable Fur Yarn from Crochet.com HERE) which gives him the furry beard that a gnome needs without brushing out strands of yarn, attaching strands of yarn etc. The Fable Fur yarn is a super bulky weight yarn so the base whips up in a flash. If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here: Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth, Salty the Seal and Otis the Owl.

    Adding Pellets to the Base of Your Crochet Gnome

    Polypellets/plastic pellets are added to the base to help keep Gnorman Gnome standing upright and also enables him to be utilized as a door stop.

    To add the pellets to the base, you need to have the pellets contained to prevent them from coming out of your crochet. I used cheep nylon anklets that I got fro the dollar store. It was a package of 2 pairs for $1.25. That gives me enough to do at least 4 different projects that use the plastic pellets for a small price. I fill the nylon I’m using with pellets until I feel satisfied with the weight/amount that fits inside the base and then I tie a knot in the nylon, close to the top of the pellets. Usually I have enough nylon left over to turn the remaining nylon inside-out to pull it over the part containing the pellets to double up the amount of nylon covering the pellets. I knot it again and place it inside my project.

    If you plan to give Gnorman Gnome to a child that may be a bit rough with him, you may want to sew a small pouch for your pellets to go into as a cotton fabric pouch would be more secure that the nylons.

    The hat for this crochet christmas gnome is made using worsted weight yarn and works up quickly. The hat was designed to give it a lumpy/twisted look but still stay upright. The top starts off in a cork-screw type curl and then some lumps and bumps are added as you progress. The hat features only one colour change so it limits the amount of ends you weave in. I’ve also given instructions to limit how noticeable the colour change is. Using the invisible join technique, the colour change is practically… well… invisible!

    Two little feet are created using black worsted weight yarn and they aren’t stuffed so that Gnorman Gnome can stand up on his own. A small nose is created using a cream coloured yarn (or any skin tone you’d prefer) in worsted weight and sewn onto the base. So in total there are 5 quick and easy to make parts that make up this crochet christmas gnome free pattern. It’s a great crochet christmas gift and you can make an army of them in no time. Let’s get started making our crochet christmas gnome Gnorman Gnome.

    (If you’re looking for some other last-minute crochet christmas gifts, check out this round-up of free crochet patterns that make great last-minute gifts HERE. You may also be interested in checking out my Free Crochet Christmas Decoration Pattern Round-Up as well.)

    Christmas in July Make Along

    I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Come join the fun! 31 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, sewing, and crafting projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.

    Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
    Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
    Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
    Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
    Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

    We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you. Find out more information about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Tuesday, August 4, 2020 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

    How To Join the 2020 Christmas in July Make Along

    • You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
    • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2020 on all social media.
    • If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
    • By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!

    Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.

    Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern: Gnorman Gnome

    Side profile of the crochet scandinavian gnome project

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Tutorials You May Find Helpful For this Project

    Tips & Tricks for Working with Faux Fur Yarn

    How to do the Magic Circle

    How to do the Single Crochet Stitch

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 10” tall from bottom of base to tip of hat and approximately 6” wide at the widest point of the base

    Gauge: 

    • Base Gauge: 4 sts x 5 rows = 2”
    • Hat and Feet Gauge: 11 sts x 12 rows = 2”
    • Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.

    Notes:

    • The base of this project is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • This project is worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.

    Special Techniques:

    • Invisible Join: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.

    Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern – Gnorman Gnome:

    Crochet Christmas Gnome with a furls crochet hook and a skein of fable fur yarn

    Base

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur in Ursa and 5.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
    Rounds 6 – 16:  SC around (30)
    Join last ST to he first ST with a SL ST and FO and weave in ends.

    Nose

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight in Cream and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Rounds 4 – 6:  SC around (18)
    Round 7: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12) – Start adding stuffing.  Adding a bit more with after each row.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the base.

    close up shot of the red and whit knobbly hat worn by the gnome in this Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern

    Hat

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight in Red and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 5 into the MC. (5)
    Round 2: SC around (5)
    Round 3: (SCINC) x 5. (10)
    Round 4: SC 9, SC 5 in the last ST (14)
    Round 5:
    (SCDEC) x 3, SC 8, SC 5 in the last ST (16)
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9, SC 5 in the last ST (17)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 10, SC 5 in the last ST (18) – Start stuffing tip of hat and continue to add stuffing as you go.
    Rounds 8 – 9:  SC around (18)
    Round 10: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 11, SC 5 in the last ST (19)
    Round 11: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12, SC 5 in the last ST (20)
    Round 12: (SCINC) x 2, SC 16, (SCINC) x 2 (24)
    Round 13: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) – Stop stuffing hat.  Further stuffing will be added during assembly.
    Rounds 14 – 15: SC around (30)
    Round 16:  SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 17:  SC 15, SC 5 in the next ST, SC 14, (SCDEC) x 3 (37)
    Round 18:  SC 12, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 16, (SCDEC) x 3 (36)
    Round 19: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 20: SCINC, SC 18, SCINC, SC 22 (44)
    Round 21: (SC 10, SCINC) x 4 (48)
    Round 22: (SC 7, SCINC) x 6 (54)
    Rounds 23 – 24:  SC around (54)
    Round 25: (SC 8, SCINC) x 5, SC 8, SC 5 in the last ST (63)
    Round 26: SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 8, SCINC, SC 5, (SCDEC) x 5, SC 5, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) X 2, SC 4, SCINC (65)
    Round 27: SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 60 (66)
    Round 28: (SC 9, SCINC) x 6, (SCDEC) x 3, SC (70)
    Round 29: (SCDEC) x 4, (SC 9, SCINC) x 6, SC 2 (72)
    Round 30: SC around (72)
    FO using invisible join (see special techniques),.  Attach white yarn to first ST of round 30.
    Round 31: (SC 11, SCINC) x 6 (78)
    Round 32: SC around (78)
    Round 33: (SC 12, SCINC) x 6 (84)
    Round 34: SC around (84)
    Round 35: (SC 13, SCINC) x 6 (90)
    Rounds 36 – 39: SC around (90)
    FO using invisible join (see special techniques), leaving a long tail to secure hat to faux fur base.

    Crochet Gnome with a furry beard and a knobbly red and white hat

    Feet (Make two)

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Black and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 7: SC around (24)
    Round 8: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC, SC 10 (22)
    Round 9: SC around (22)
    Round 10: SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 9 (20)
    Round 11: SC around (20)
    Round 12: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18)
    Round 13: SC around (18)
    Round 14: SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 7 (16)
    Round 15: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 4, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 4 (12)
    Round 16: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. DO NOT STUFF.  Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening. 

    Assembly

    Sew the nose onto the base two rows down from the top. 

    Add plastic pellets/weighted beads to nylon stocking.  Secure closed and place inside the faux fur base. Add stuffing to base around and on top of the nylon stocking. Find my tutorial on how to make a weighted base for amigurumi HERE.

    Place the hat on top of the faux fur base and use the tail to sew onto the base, adding stuffing to the hat and base as you seam.  Stuff firmly. 

    Sew feet onto bottom of the base so that the tips of the feet stick out a bit beyond the fur so that they are visible.

    I hope you have enjoyed this crochet christmas gnome free pattern for Gnorman Gnome! I’d love to see your finished gnomes so don’t forget to tag me @theloopylamb when sharing on Facebook and Instagram.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items made with this crochet christmas gnome free pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Please follow and like us:
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll with Clothes: My Dolly Molly – Part 3

    Crochet doll with clothes next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3

    My Dolly Molly Crochet doll with some furls crochet hooks and yarn.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back view of the crochet doll with clothes made with this free crochet pattern

    Pattern

    Hair

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45)
    Round 9: SC around (45)
    Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains.  SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail.  Weave in ends.

    NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH.  To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand.  For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Molly now has a new outfit! Check out Molly the Mermaid HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Please follow and like us:
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – Part 2

    Crochet doll  next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a crochet doll free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    • Part One: Body
    • Part Two: Arms, Embroidery and Dress
    • Part Three: Hair

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    My Dolly Molly with a furls crochet hook and some yarn, made with this crochet doll free pattern.

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Adding Eyelashes

    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Close up of doll's face with arrows indicating where to place needle when embroidering eyelashes.
    completed eyelashes on crochet doll


    Nose

    Take a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches.  Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly.  FO and weave in end.

    Close up of the crochet doll nose on My Dolly Molly

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.



    Arms (make two)

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go.
    Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9)
    Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11)
    Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.

    Molly the Dolly an her dress made with this crochet doll free pattern



    Dress

    Using Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37
    Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST and CH across (32)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36)
    Row 7: CH 6 and turn.  SC in each ST across (36)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40)
    Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. (40)

    Amigurumi doll dress for this crochet doll free pattern


    Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40)
    Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60)
    Row 16: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  (80)
    Row 17: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (100)
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (120)
    FO and weave in ends.  The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress.  Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7.  Put dress on doll and fasten.

    Molly now has a new outfit! Check out Molly the Mermaid HERE.

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Please follow and like us:
  • Crochet Patterns

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Crochet doll made with this amigurumi doll pattern with a text overlay indicating this is a free crochet pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my amigurumi doll pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This amigurumi doll pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part One of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The free crochet doll pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Back of the amigurumi doll pattern showing the fastening of the doll's dress.

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Amigurumi Doll Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Leg 1

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.

    Place a stitch marker into the 3rd ST of the last round of the leg.  FO but do not weave in your end.

    Leg 2

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.


    Do NOT FO.  We will continue onto the body now.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Picture of the completed amigurumi doll body without it's hair and dress.

    Body

    Round 1: Working into the top of the 2nd leg, SC 8, CH 1, SC into the 3rd ST of the last round of the first leg.  SC 11 around the first leg, CH 1 and SC in the last 4 STs of the 2nd leg. (26)
    Pull the end from finishing off the first leg through the hole between the two legs and use it to sew up the hole.
    Round 2:  SC in each ST around (26)
    Round 3: SC 7, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 4 (29)
    Round 4: SC around (29)
    Round 5: SC 7, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 15 (32)
    Rounds 6 – 9: SC around (32)
    Round 10: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 2 (28)
    Round 11: SC around (28)
    Round 12: SC 11, SCDEC, SC 15 (27)
    Round 13: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 7 (25) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 14: SC around (25)
    Round 15: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 6 (23)
    Round 16: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 7 (21)

    Round 17: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 5 (19)
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 4 (17)
    Round 19: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 3 (15)
    Round 20: SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC, SC 2 (12)
    Round 21: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Round 23: SC, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 24: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 25: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 26: SC around (36)
    Round 27: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Rounds 28 – 29: SC around (42)
    Round 30: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 31 – 32: SC around (48)
    Round 33: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) – Place safety eyes in Round 33 with 7 sts in between them
    Rounds 34 – 35: SC around (42)
    Round 36: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 37:  SC around (36)
    Round 38: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5,  SC 2 (30)
    Round 39: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 40: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Round 41: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 42: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and weave in ends. 

    Molly now has a new outfit! Check out Molly the Mermaid HERE.

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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