• How To's

    Invisible Finish Crochet Tutorial

    Collage of crochet tutorial images with text overlay indicating it's an invisible finish crochet tutorial
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I am going to share with you my invisible finish crochet tutorial. This technique can be a game changer for amigurumi and projects made in the round. I personally love using this technique for colour changes and finishing off open edges in amigurumi projects. This is a great substitutuion for It’s quick and easy to do and, like the name suggests, invisible. Let’s get started.

    When finishing off a project in the round, you’ll generally be asked to join the last stitch and the first stitch with a slip stitch. This can sometimes leave a bump and a noticeable jog between the start and the end of the row. Using the invisible finish crochet technique, you can help eliminate that job and made the edge of your project look smoother and have a more even finish.

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    The invisible finish technique can be used with almost any stitch but for today’s tutorial, I’m using single crochet and double crochet examples. We’re starting off here using the invisible finish with an amigurumi project made in single crochet stitches.

    Watch the video version of this Invisible Finish Crochet Tutorial here:

    Invisible Finish for Open Edges in Amigurumi Projects

    Step One: Finish your last stitch of your round but DO NOT join. Cut your yarn to have a tail about 6 – 8″ long and pull the yarn through your last stitch. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.

    step one of the invisible finish crochet tutorial

    Step Two: Skipping the first stitch of the round, insert your needle under both loops of the second stitch of the round and pull the yarn to the back/inside of the project.

    step two of the invisible join
    replicating the stitch with yarn tail

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Step Three: Insert the needle through the top of the last stitch of the round, under the back loop of the stitch and pull the yarn to the back/inside of the project. Pull the yarn until it replicates the first stitch of the round without being too tight or sagging. We want it to look exactly as if it’s the first stitch of the round and not your yarn tail.

    tapestry needle going under the Back Loop of the last stitch
    final step of the invisible finish crochet tutorial

    Step Four: Weave in your end to help keep your duplicate stitch in place and keep they yarn from unravelling. Trim any excess.

    completed invisible finish

    That’s it’s! As you can see, duplicating that first stitch of the round helps even up the two sides of the project and make that closure less noticeable. If you do a lot of amigurumi projects, then I recommend doing this to finish off your project or to do this technique to help make colour changes less noticeable in amigurumi projects.

    I hope you found this tutorial helpful. If you have any questions, please leave me a comment below and I’ll do my best to help you.

    Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:

  • How To's

    How to Crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch

    Collage of the steps of this how to crochet the paired double crochet stitch tutorial
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    The Paired Double Crochet Stitch, is super simple to learn and is a fun variation on the double crochet stitch that is created using the double crochet decrease (DC2TOG) and chain stitches. This is a simple one row repeat that works up quickly and creates a fabric with. a bit of a lacier look to it without all the hassel. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch.

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    You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch. Using a larger hook with a worsted weight yarn will create a more open look and would be great for bags and summer accessories.

    Check out my How to Crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch video tutorial here:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • CH SP(s) = Chain Space(s)
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • DC2TOG = Double Crochet Two Together
    • ST(s) = Stitch(es)

    Stitch Multiple:

    • Chain any even number of CHs

    Notes:

    • CH 3s at the beginning of row count as a DC ST
    • If you don’t know how to do the DC2TOG/DCDEC stitch, learn how to do that with my Double Crochet Decrease Stitch Tutorial HERE.

    How to Crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch

    Row 1: CH your desired number of chains. For my example here, I have created a chain of 20. DC2TOG over the 4th and 5th CHs from the hook (skipped 3 CHs count as first DC). *CH 1, DC2TOG over the next 2 CHs* repeat instructions in ** until 1 chain remains. CH 1, DC in the last CH. Turn.

    Close up image of this first DC2TOG being done
    Setp 2 of the paired double crochet stitch
    completed first row of the paired double crochet stitch tutorial

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Row 2: CH 3, DC2TOG over the 1st and 2nd CH SPs, CH 1, *DC2TOG starting in the same CH SP as the last ST and finishing in the next unworked CH SP. CH 1* repeat instructions in the ** across your row. Work the last leg of your last DC2TOG between the CH 3 and the first leg of your DC2TOG from the previous row. DC in the top of the CH 3. Turn.

    starting row two of the stitch tutorial
    second DC2TOG cluster completed
    Finger pointing to the CH3 of row 1 reminding readers to work into the chain

    Repeat Row 2 until your pattern reaches your desired length.

    completed paired double crochet stitch tutorial swatch with a yellow crochet hook

    Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:

  • How To's

    Half Double Crochet Decrease Tutorial

    collage of images illustration how to do the Half double crochet decrease
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I want to share my tutorial for how to do a Half Double Crochet Decrease, which is also known as the HDCDEC, DC2TOG or Half Double Crochet Two Together Stitch. This stitch is a variation of the Half Double Crochet Stitch and is regularly used as a way to reduce two Half Double Crochet stitches to a single Half Double Crochet Stitch. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch or HDCDEC.

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    You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet.

    Check out my How to do the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch video tutorial here:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • HDCDEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease*
    • HDC2TOG = Half Double Crochet Two Together*
    • ST(s) = Stitch(es)
    • YO = Yarn Over

    **You may see HDCDEC or HDC2TOG used to describe this same stitch in different patterns. I tend to stick to HDCDEC in my own designs but know that if you see HDC2TOG in other patterns, they tend to mean the same thing.

    How to Crochet the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch

    Step 1: Yarn over (YO) hook and insert hook into the first stitch (ST) from the row below. YO and pull up a loop. You should have three (3) loops on your hook.

    Step one of the HDC2TOG
    three loops on the crochet hook of a crochet stitch in progress

    Step 2: YO hook and insert hook into the next ST. YO and pull up a loop. You should have five (5) loops on your hook.

    Next step of how to do the half double crochet decrease stitch

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Step 3: YO hook and pull through all five (5) loops on your hook. HDCDEC/HDC2TOG completed.

    completed half double crochet decrease
    3 completed half double crochet decrease stitches in a swatch

    That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? Here are some free crochet patterns on my blog that use the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch so you can practice your new skill:

    Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:

  • How To's

    How to do a Double Crochet Decrease or DC2TOG

    Completed double crochet decrease stitch
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today I want to share my tutorial for how to do a Double Crochet Decrease, which is also known as the DCDEC, DC2TOG or Double Crochet Two Together Stitch. This stitch is a variation of the Double Crochet Stitch and is regularly used as a way to reduce two Double Crochet stitches to a single Double Crochet Stitch but it can also be paired with other stitches to create an upside down “V”-shaped stitch in a fabric. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch.

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    You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch. Using a larger hook with a worsted weight yarn will create a more open look and would be great for bags and summer accessories.

    Check out my How to Crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch video tutorial here:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • DCDEC = Double Crochet Decrease*
    • DC2TOG = Double Crochet Two Together*
    • ST(s) = Stitch(es)
    • YO = Yarn Over

    **You may see DCDEC or DC2TOG used to describe this same stitch in different patterns. I tend to stick to DCDEC in my own designs but know that if you see DC2TOG in other patterns, they tend to mean the same thing.

    How to Crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch

    Step 1: Yarn over (YO) hook and insert hook into the first stitch (ST) from the row below. YO and pull up a loop. You should have three loops on your hook. YO and pull through two loops on your hook.

    step one of the double crochet decrease
    step two of the DCDEC stitch

    Step 2: YO hook and insert hook into the next ST. YO and pull up a loop. You should have four loops on your hook.

    YO hook and pull through two loops on your hook. You should have 3 loops on your hook.

    step 3 of the DCDEC stitch
    last step of the double crochet decrease tutorial

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Step 3: YO hook and pull through all 3 loops on your hook. DCDEC/DC2TOG completed.

    first completed DCDEC stitch
    completed double crochet decrease stitches

    That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? Here are some free crochet patterns on my blog that use the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch so you can practice your new skill:

    Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:

  • How To's

    How to Do The Russian Join Step-by-Step Tutorial

    a close up image of a russian join completed with this tutorial
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Getting near the end of your yarn and all you can think about is how you’re going to have to weave in yet ANOTHER end? Friend, I’m right there with you. Sometimes, particularly when I’m working on a larger project, I will do whatever it takes to avoid having any unnecessary ends to weave in. Enter: the Russian Join. Today I’m going to teach you how to do the Russian Join to help you join your ends together so you have less ends to weave in to your project.

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    The Russian Join is a great way to join yarns together and avoid extra ends to weave in. It can be used for adding a new skein or changing colours. This can be done for both knitting and crocheting and works best with two yarns of the same weight. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to do it:

    To do the Russian Join, you’ll need:

    • two different yarns (the new yarn you want to attach to your project and the working yarn attached to your project)
    • a tapestry or darning needle

    Watch my video tutorial on how to do the Russian Join here:

    1. Thread a tapestry needle with the new yarn that you want to attach and leave a tail a few inches long.
    tapestry threaded onto a strand of yarn, next to a pair of scissors

    2. Turn the needle back towards the strand of yarn and insert it into the plies. Thread the needle through the plies for about 2 – 3 inches (adjust this to be longer for slippery yarns). Keep the yarn tail inside the plies of the yarn. Make sure you keep a small loop near the top – the smaller the better. I like to put a stitch marker here to help make sure I don’t accidentally lose my loop.

    Step 1 of how to do the russian join
    tapestry needle being fed through a strand of yarn.

    3. Pull the needle all the way through and remove the needle from the thread. It will look bunched up but when you smoothe it out, it will cover the rest of/most of the tail. If your loop is too big, tug on the tail to tighten it up. Trim any excess.

    hands manipulating yarn into the russian join
    yarn bunched up on itself, holding a stitch marker

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    scissors cutting the end of yarn from the first half of the russian join.

    4. Take your working yarn (ensuring you have a generous tail) and thread it onto the needle, leaving a tail of a few inches. Insert the needle through the small loop at the top of the new yarn that you worked through and insert it back into itself. You can remove your stitch marker now (if you used one).

    tapestry needle being fed through the yarn

    final step of the tutorial, hands holding yarn

    5. Pull the needle all the way through and remove the needle from the thread. It will look bunched up but when you smoothe it out, it will cover the rest of the tail. If your loop is too big, tug on the tail to tighten it up. Trim any excess.

    completed russian join

    And there you have it. A completed Russian Join.

    A word of caution: Although I’ve used this technique successfully many times with a variety of yarns I will say that it doesn’t work with all yarn types. There are some yarns that may look noticably thicker so you’ll have to use your discretion on whether this technique will work for your project.
    For the majority of the yarns I have used this with in the past, it hasn’t been very noticeable and allows me to keep working on my project after only a momentary pause to work the join. I would not recommend using this technique with roving yarns or yarns have have really fine strands to make up a thicker ply like, Caron X Pantone Yarns or as the results I had were messy and too noticeable in my work.

    I hope you enjoyed learning how to do the Russian Join. If you have any questions or comments, I’d love to hear from you. Do you have another favourite way to join your yarn or a way you’d like me to demonstrate here? Let me know your thoughts below.

    While you’re here, check out these tutorials and learn something new:

  • How To's

    Improve Your Amigurumi Crochet Projects With This One Small Thing

    green monster amigurumi crochet project with crochet accessories
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m working up a draft of an amigurumi pattern while I wait for the yarn I want to use to arrive and I thought I’d share a bit of my process and share some of my favourite tips to help improve your amigurumi crochet projects. What if I told you that you most likely have something in your home right now that can make the difference between your amigurumi crochet project looking haphazard and it being profesionally done? What if I told you that if you don’t have some of these items in your home, that you could get them for probably under $5? You’d probably be saying “shut up already and tell me what it is!”, right?. This magical little item that is often overlooked is sewing pins. Simple, sewing pins. Keep reading and I’ll tell you how to use them to improve all your amigurumi crochet projects.

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    Sewing pins may seem like they don’t have a place in the crochet world but these little guys are incredibly handy when it comes to amigurumi projects. They can save you a lot of time and frustration when the time is taken to use them in an amigurumi project. It can make the difference of a polished and professionally done amigurumi project and one that looks a bit sloppy. I’m not saying everyone is looking to sell their items or be professional crocheters (ok, we might actually want that last part) but we all want the best results from our projects and sewing pins can help you get them with little to no investment.

    Sewing pins scattered next to a pin box

    TIP 1: Get Those Limbs in Line!

    This little guy may look like a bit of a mess but this mess helps me not only visualize how he will look with the pieces I’ve made attached but it helps me get the ultimate placement for my arms and other attachments that are being sewn on.  Sometimes one crooked or ill-placed piece on an amigurumi project can be the difference between your project looking cohesive and polished or sloppy and rushed.  So use your sewing pins to pin those pieces onto your project before jumping into sewing.  Take your time and be sure you’re happy with the placement before you sew and you’ll save yourself a lot of heartache later.

    unfinished crochet toy being held together with sewing pins

    TIP 2: Use Them to Outline Your Embroidery

    Full disclosure: I am not very good with embroidery.  I’m a Type A perfectionist and embroidery can be frustrating for me.  So, to make things easier for myself, I outline where I want to embroider with sewing pins.  I’ve gone a little overboard in my picture here to make it more obvious but that line of pins across his face?  That’ll be where his mouth goes.  That pin right under the mouth?  That’ll be an itty bitty tooth stitcking out.  The pins help me know where I want to place them and visualize what it’ll look like before I get started.

    Pins placed on an amigurumi toy showing where to embroider
    Close up of an amigurumi crochet monster's face

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    TIP 3: Use Them to Create Consistency When Making Multiple Amigurumi Crochet Projects

    If you ever find yourself in a situation where you’re making multiple projects from the same pattern, create all your pieces for your projects first and get your pins ready. Pin the pieces to each body and line them up to see if you find any noteable differences. If you find one that doesn’t match, simply pull the pins and readjust that piece. Once you’re satisfied with how they all look, sew on the pieces and at the end you’ll have items that should all look nearly identical. This is a great tip for those creating to sell for shops or markets.

    It is crazy how something as small and simple as a sewing pin can help to improve your amigurumi crochet projects so much. I hope you enjoyed these tips and found them helpful. Have you used sewing pins with your amigurumi crochet projects before? Do you use them in a way that I haven’t mentioned above? Let me know in the comments below.

    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my free amigurumi crochet patterns:

  • How To's

    How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish

    amigurumi project finished using the ultimate finish technique
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    When crocheting amigurumi projects, there are a number of techniques that can be utilized to get get a better-looking finish. Sometimes designers will include instructions for some of these techniques in their patterns and sometimes, they’ll expect you to already know them. Today I want to show you how to finish off amigurumi using the ultimate finish technique. Having the ultimate finish technique in your tool box will enable you to use it for any amigurumi project, whether other not it has been provided for you in a pattern.

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    To get the absolute best finish possible, make sure you’re using the invisible decrease stitch for your single crochet decreases (SCDEC) in your final rounds. You can find my tutorial on how to do the invisible decrease stitch HERE. Using this in conjunction with the ultimate finish will help minize any gaps or hole when you’re finishing off your amigurumi project.

    Check out my How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish video tutorial here:

    How to Finish Amigurumi with Ultimate Finish

    When you are on the last round of your amigurumi piece and your piece is stuffed, you should have (generally) 6 single crochet (SC) stitches remaining in the round.

    amigurumi project with after the last row is finished.

    When the pattern says to finish off (FO), cut your yarn leaving a long tail and thread the tail onto a tapestry/yarn needle. Using your tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each stitch in your last round.

    amigurumi project showing the difference between front and back loops in crochet stitches

    Once you have finished, gently pull the yarn taught. This will cinch the last round closed.

    cinching the yarn closed doing the ultimate finish technique in crochet
    closed hole in amigurumi using ultimate finish technique

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Sometimes there will be a little bump that forms from cinching the hole closed. To fix this and flatten the bump, insert the needle into the centre of the bump, and out the other side of your project. This can be done almost anywhere as long as you pull your yarn out between the stitches and not through the stitches. (This will make sure you don’t damage the surface of your fabric).

    tapestry needle pointing into amigurumi project to remove the bump left from ultimate finish

    Pull the yarn taught until the bump flattens. Weave in your end and cut the yarn.

    completed project using the ultimate finish technique to finish off amigurumi

    Voila! The ultimate finish gives you… well, the ultimate finish! It is beautifully clean and tidy and can really help to improve your amigurumi projects. I hope you have enjoyed learning how to finish off your amigurumi using the ultimate finish technique. If you have any questions, pelase don’t hesitate to ask. I’d love to hear what you think once you’ve given it a try!

    Want to practice using this technique? Here are some free amigurumi crochet patterns you can use it with:

  • How To's

    How to Crochet the Thicket Stitch

    Crochet Thicket stitch Swatch with a text overlay indicating a tutorial for beginner crocheters
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    Today I want to show you one of my absolute favourite crochet stitches: the Thicket Stitch. Now, the Thicket Stitch often gets passed over because it is considered a beginner’s crochet stitch because it’s a simple one row repeat. But I love this stitch for it’s wonderful texture, versatility and it’s simplicity. This stitch can be a bit of a chameleon and it’s part of what I love about it. When I say chameleon, I mean that you can use the same stitch and with a slight variation, have it look completely different. Every time I use this stitch in a design, even though I’ve done so multiple times, I always get asked “what stitch is that?!” I think you’ll love having this simple but versatile crochet stitch in your tool box. So grab your hooks, grab your yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Thicket Stitch.

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    You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch and have it look a bit lacier if you wish. Thicket stitch is wonderful for fast and easy crochet blankets! In fact, my first crochet blanket design I published uses this stitch. Find the Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket Pattern HERE and give it a try to practice this stitch.

    To do this tutorial, you’ll need to know how to do the Single Crochet (SC) and Double Crochet (DC) stitches. You can find the tutorials for them here: Single Crochet, Double Crochet.

    Check out my How to Do the Crochet Thicket Stitch video tutorial here:

    Starting Chain: Chain any even number of stitches. For my example here, I’ve done a chain of 20.

    CH 20

    Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the same CH. *Skip 1 CH and place 1 SC and 1 DC stitch in the next CH* Repeat the instructions in the ** until 2 CHs remain. Skip 1 CH, SC in the last CH. CH 1 and turn your work.

    starting the first thicket stitch cluster
    Single Crochet Step 1
    single crochet tutorial image
    Single Crochet Step 2
    completed single crochet stitch in grey yarn
    Single Crochet Step 3
    beginning of double crochet stitch
    Double Crochet Step 1

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Double Crochet tutorial
    Double Crochet Step 2
    completed double crochet stitch
    Double Crochet Step 3
    completed crochet stitch demo
    Continuing with (SC, DC) in every other CH across.

    Row 2: (SC, DC) in the first ST, *skip the next ST, (SC, DC) in the next ST* repeat instructions in the ** until 1 ST remains. SC in the last ST.

    crochet tutorial for beginners
    Row 2 Single Crochet Step 3
    Double Crochet stitch demo
    Row 2 – Double Crochet Step 3
    Crochet Stitch Tutorial
    First Cluster of Row Two Completed
    Completed rows of Thicket Stitch
    Completed rows of Thicket Stitch

    Repeat Row 2 until you’ve reached your desired length.

    Completed Thicket Stitch Swatch
    Completed Thicket Stitch Swatch

    That’s it! It’s super easy right? This stitch looks amazing as dishclothes, blankets, garments, pillows and more! Changing colours every few rows gives this stitch a totally different look and I just love the versatility! Here are some free crochet patterns you can use to practice the this stitch:

  • How To's

    Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Tutorial

    Picot Single Crochet Tutorial images
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    If you can do. the single crochet stitch and do a chain, then you can. do the Picot Single Crochet Stitch! Picot Single Crochet Stitch is a variation of the single crochet stitch that creates a beautifully textured fabric that looks like tiny bobbles.

    The Picot Single Crochet Stitch is abbeviated in patterns as (PSC). The different between the basic single crochet and the Picot Single Crochet stitch is quick and easy to accomplish. The PSC needs to be worked from the wrong side of the fabric so that the picots will pop out on the right side of the fabric. You’ll often see the PSC worked with a row of single crochet (or other row of stitches) in between them. When rows of the Picot Single Crochet Stitch are alternated with rows of single crochet stitches, it is referred to as the Granule Stitch.

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    The Picot Single Crochet can be used in a variety of different ways but for today’s tutorial, I’ll show you how to do the Picot Single Crochet stitch as it is worked in the Granule Stitch. If you need to learn how to do the Single Crochet Stitch, you can find that tutorial HERE.

    Watch my video tutorial for the Granule & PSC Stitch here:

    Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Multiples

    If you want linear picots (ones that line up, straight up and down), you’ll need to create a starting chain with a multiple of 2 +1+1. To stagger your picots as typically done with Granule stitch, you’ll need to start with a multiple of 4+1+1 for the turning chain.

    Picot Single Crochet:

    Step 1: Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over hook and pull through stitch. 

    Step 2: Yarn over and pull through one loop on the hook three times. 

    Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.

    Granule Stitch with Staggered Picots

    Row 1: Chain a multiple of 4+1+1 for the turning chain. I used 18 for my starting chain. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and remaining CH. Ch 1 and turn.

    Base row and stitch multiple of Picot Single Crochet Stitch

    Row 2: SC in the first ST, *PSC in the next ST, SC in the next ST* repeat instructions contained in the ** until end of row. CH 1 and turn.

    Granule Stitch Step 1
    Picot Single Crochet Step 2
    Step 3

    Row 3: SC in the first ST and each ST across. CH 1 and turn.

    Row 4: SC in the first and 2nd STS * PSC, SC* until one ST remains. SC in the last ST. CH 1 and turn.

    Row 5: SC in the first ST and each ST across

    Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach your desired length.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Granule Stitch with Linear Picots

    Row 1: Chain a multiple of 2+1, +1 for the turning chain. My starting chain is 18. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and remaining CH. Ch 1 and turn.

    Base row and stitch multiple of Granule stitch

    Row 2: SC in the first ST, *PSC in the next ST, SC in the next ST* repeat instructions contained in the ** until end of row. CH 1 and turn.

    Picot Single Crochet Tutorial
    Granule Stitch Step 2
    Picot Single Crochet Step 3

    Row 3: SC in the first ST and each ST across. CH 1 and turn.

    Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach your desired length.

    Granule Stitch Swatch with Linear Picots on the bottom and offset Picots on the top.

    That’s it! The PSC and Granule Stitches are fun and easy. You can practice using the Picot Single Crochet Stitch in my Picot Me Up Ear Warmer and Cowl Set Pattern.

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest so you can be kept in the loop on all the latest updates and sneak peaks.

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  • How To's

    How to Use Poly Pellets in Amigurumi

    Picture of a weighted base used for amigurumi projects
    This post may contain affiliate links

    Ever wanted to give your amigurumi projects a bit of added weight? Struggling to get your project to stand up on it’s own? The solution is simple: try making a weighted base with Poly Pellets!

    Poly Pellets are small pellets made of plastic that can be used to add weight to your amigurumi projects. This added weight can help keep those rogue stuffed animals to stand up-right instead of toppling over. But, there’s a trick to using them correctly, and safely. Today, I’ll show you how to use Poly Pellets safely and effectively in your next amigurumi projects.

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    How to Use Poly Pellets

    Poly Pellets are tiny little plastic beads/pellets and if you were to add them to your crochet project, they’d eventually work their way through the small wholes that exist in crochet stitches. So, in order to use them safely, the Poly Pellets need to be placed in a cotonainer of some variety that prevents them from escaping. The cheapest, quickest, easiest thing I’ve found to use is nylon stockings. That’s right, I use pantyhose knee-high stockings! I get them in a package of 2 pairs from the dollar store for $1.25 and that gets me 4 stockings to use in amigurumi projects.

    stockings used to make a weighted bead base for amigurumi

    If you can’t find stockings, you can try sewing little pouches made of a solid fabric with a tight weave. While that is definitely an option, I personally prefer the nylon stockings for their low-cost and how quick and easy they are to use.

    Watch my video tutorial for how to use poly pellets in amigurumi:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Once you have your containment method of preference, you need to add the pellets to it. If you’re not careful, they can be a bit messy so you want to do this carefully. I like to place my stocking into a clean cup or mug and fold the top of it over the opening of the cup/mug to hold the stocking open. Then using a spoon, I scoop the pellets into the stocking until I have the amount I want to add to my project.

    image showing how to use poly pellets to make a weighted base for amigurumi
    Adding poly pellets to the stocking

    Once I’m sure I have enough, I remove it from the mug/cup and tie a knot in the stocking. If you have extra stocking, you can cut it off and disgard it, leave it attached or, if you have enough you could turn the remaining stocking back over the part of the stocking that contains the beads and essentially double up the stocking to reinforce it.

    polypellet base made with this how to use polypellets tutorial
    completed weighted base made  this how to use poly pellets tutorial

    When you’re using the poly pellets you would use the poly pellets in the base or where you want the weight to be (i.e. the ends of the limbs). You would stuff the rest of the piece/project with regular stuffing. Adding the pellets to the head would just cause it to topple over and no one wants that!

    I hope you liked this tutorial. If you want to try a pattern where I use this technique, try out my crochet christmas gnome pattern for Gnorman Gnome.

    If you like free amigurumi patterns, you may be interested in these:

    I hope you found this tutorial helpful! Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest so can kept in the loop on all my latest free crochet patterns, tutorials and giveaways.

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