• Crochet Patterns

    Snowella Crochet Snowman Hat Free Pattern

    Crochet snowman hat in a flat lay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    We just had our first snowfall here and although none of it stuck to the ground, my kids are already asking me to go and make a snowman. This inspired me to make a crochet snowman hat pattern to share with you all. This hat is available in children’s sizes.

    While I was making my hat my 3 year old daughter was telling me what she thought a snowman should look like. She said that they would be “wearing a scarf, have a big bow on their head and a cute little carrot nose”. I loved the idea and decided to change what I was making to create her girly version of a snowman. When I asked her what colour the bow was she said “Pink! Of course!” We decided to name the snowman Snowella. I hope you enjoy it.

    Pin this Crochet Snowman Hat Pattern for later SAVE

    This crochet snowman hat is easy to make and perfect for gifting. If you’d prefer a less girly snowman, change up the main accent colour in the hat and omit the bow. Mix and match more than one accent colour for a different look too. You can customize this however you’d like to fit the requests and personality of the little one that will be the lucky recipient of your handmade crochet snowman hat.

    To make your own Snowella Crochet Snowman Hat, you’ll need to know how to do basic crochet stitches and techniques: single crochet, half double crochet, the magic circle as well as how to increase and decrease both single crochet and half double crochet stitches. I’ve included my video tutorial for how to do a magic circle here below in case this is something you haven’t done before or in case you need a refresher.

    The Snowella Crochet Snowman Hat is worked from the top down in a single piece and the ear flaps are crocheted on so they won’t need to be sewn on. I’ve given the amount of chains needed to create ties for the hats (which are added after making the second earflap) but feel free to use as many chains as you would like to make longer or shorter ties to your preference.

    Looking for other free crochet hat patterns? Check some of my other crochet hat patterns here:

    For this projects I’ve used my favourite worsted weight acrylic yarn Brava Worsted Weight from We Crochet. I’ve used this yarn for a wide variety of projects and it has never disappointed me. I’ve used four different colours of Brava for this project: Orange, Black, White and Pink. Pink is the contrasting colour used to create the bow and edging/earflaps and can be substituted for whatever colours you prefer.

    You can substitute your favourite worsted weight yarn for Brava if you prefer but as this is a wearable, it is vital that you make sure that you are able to match the gauge listed in the pattern to ensure the hat will fit its intended recipient.

    Crochet Snowman Hat in a flat lay with Brava Worsted Yarn and Furls Crochet Hook

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.


    Abbreviations:


    Sizes Available:

    • 0 – 3 months, 3 – 6 months. 6 – 12 months, 1 – 3 years, 3 – 5 years, 6 – 10 years

    Gauge:

    • 14 sts x 10 rounds in HDC = 4 inches


    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in joined rounds from the top down.  The hat, earflaps and ties are all crocheted on to eliminate sewing.  Then the antennae and eyes are crocheted separately and sewn on. 
    • Gauge is vital to ensuring that your hat will fit as expected.  Do a gauge swatch of HDC stitches done in the round to check your gauge.  Use whatever hook size allows you to match gauge.
    • Always join your rounds in the top of the first HDC of the round, not the CH.
    • The CH 1 at the start of every round does not count as a stitch
    • Always start your rounds in the first stitch of the last round.


    Special Techniques:

    • Invisible Join: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes all sizes for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.


    Snowella Crochet Snowman Hat Pattern

    0 – 3 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (48)
    Rounds 7 – 12: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (48)
    Change to Rouge
    Rounds 13 – 14: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (48)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    3 – 6 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 11, HDCINC) x 4. Join (52)
    Rounds 8 – 13: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (52)
    Change to Rouge
    Rounds 14 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (52)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.



    6 – 12 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Rounds 8 – 13: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (56)
    Change to Rouge
    Rounds 14 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (56)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    1 – 3 Years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 13, HDCINC) x 4. Join (60)
    Rounds 9 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (60)
    Change to Rouge
    Rounds 16 – 17: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (60)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    3 – 5 years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Rounds 9 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (64)
    Change to Rouge
    Rounds 16 – 17: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (64)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    6 – 10 years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 15, HDCINC) x 4. Join (68)
    Rounds 10 – 17 : CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (68)
    Change to Rouge
    Rounds 18 – 19: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (68)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    Ear Flaps for 0 – 3 months to 3 Years Old:


    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 9.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 8: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 9: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Crochet Ear Flap Hat lain flat showing ear flap placement

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Attach Rouge yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 9.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 8: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 9: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 30. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.


    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Ear Flaps for 3 – 10 years:


    First Ear Flap:
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 11.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 10: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 11: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Second Ear Flap:
    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Attach Rouge yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 11.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 10: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 11: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 40. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.

    Close up of eyes, nose and bow on this crochet snowman hat pattern



    Nose – All Sizes (Make One)

    Round 1: Using Orange yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 4 into the MC.  DO NOT JOIN. Continue working in continuous rounds, using a stitch marker to mark the first ST of each round and moving the stitch marker up at the beginning of every round.  (4)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 4 (8)
    Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (8)
    FO leaving a long tail for securing to the hat.  Add stuffing to nose and sew onto the front of the hat where the bottom of the carrot lines up with the top of your colour change to Rouge on the hat.

    Eyes – All Sizes (Make 2)

    Round 1: Using Black yarn and 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (from here on out referred to as “Join”). CH 1. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. Join. CH 1. (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6. Join. CH 1. (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6. (24)
    FO using invisible join (see notes) and leaving a long tail to secure onto hat.  Using tail, sew the eyes onto the hat, on either side of the nose.


    Eye Reflection – All Sizes (Make 2)

    Round 1: Using White yarn and 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. (6)
    FO using invisible join(see notes) and leaving a long tail.  Sew an eye reflection to each eye in the top right of the eye.  Make sure they’re in the same place on each eye. 

    Bow – All Sizes (Make One)

    Row 1: Using Rouge yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 15.  SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (14)
    Rows 2 – 7: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST across. (14)
    FO and weave in ends.  Using a long piece of yarn threaded onto a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the center of the bow to cinch the middle together.  Pull the ends of the yarn and cinch the center of the bow together and tie a knot to secure it.  Wrap your tail around the center of the bow until you are satisfied with how it looks.  Tie a knot on the back of the bow to secure it. Use the remainder of your tail to sew the bow onto the hat.


    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the crochet snowman hat created with this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished Snowella Crochet Snowman Hats!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Modern Tunisian Crochet Book Review

    Collage of tunisian crochet projects available in Modern Tunisian Book
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today we’re taking a look at the new book Modern Tunisian: 15 Easy Projects Along with Technique Tips and Tricks crochet pattern book from designer Mary Beth Temple and Leisure Arts. Thanks to Leisure Arts, I have a PDF copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky reader! Keep reading to learn more about this Modern Tunisian and how you can enter to win a copy of your own.

    Thank you to Leisure Arts who provided me this book free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

    Pin it for later Save

    As the title states, there are 15 tunisian crochet projects in Modern Tunisian. The projects are beautiful and range from small accessories, decor and wearables and the book gives all the patterns an “Easy” rating. The projects in Modern Tunisian are:

    • A Poncho,
    • A Boomerang Shawl
    • A Cowl,
    • A Harlequin Scarf
    • A Hat & Fingerless Mitten Set
    • A Sweater,
    • A Wall Hanging,
    • A Table Runner,
    • A Floor Pillow,
    • A Throw Pill,
    • A Blanket,
    • Some Placemants,
    • A Storage Basket and,
    • A Tote Bag.
    tunisian crochet jacket featured in Modern Tunisian

    Yarns and Tools Used in Modern Tunisian by Mary Beth Temple

    The yarns used in Modern Tunisian range in weights from 2 (fine) to 5 (bulky). The majority of the projects use size 3 (light) to 4 (medium) weight yarns. The book provides the yarn brands and colours that are used in the book at the back of the book in the resource section. The yarn brands used are accessible in many big box stores like Walmart or Michaels and you may already have many of them in your stash. The yarns are:

    • Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow
    • Premier Everyday
    • Lion Brand Vanna’s Style
    • Caron X Pantone
    • Pantons Classic Wool DK Superwash
    • Lion Brand Hearthland
    • Lily Sugar ‘n Cream
    • Lion Brand Mandala
    • Red Heart Unforgettable
    • Bernat Roving
    • Bernat Handirafter
    • Bernat Softee Baby
    colourful harlequinn tunisian crochet scarf

    The main tools and hooks are used in Modern Tunisian:

    • Tunisian hooks in sizes 5.5 – 10mm
    • Standard crochet hooks in sizes 5 – 9mm
    • Tapestry Needle
    • Bobbins for Colour Work
    • Pillow forms if you’re making the pillows

    The above list is not inclusive list of all the supplies potentially needed. Some smaller, various supplies are needed for some of the projects but the above list should be sufficent to get you started with the majority of the projects in the book.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Woman wearing a tunisian crochet cowl

    You’ll need to know the basic Tunisian Crochet Stitches: Tunisian Simple Stitch, Tunisian Knit Stitch, Tunisian Purl Stitch and how to decrease those stitches. In addition to the tunisian stitches, basic crochet stitches like single crochet, double crochet and crab stitch are used in the book. There is a very clearly illustrated reference section that the back of the book that helps with these techniques should you need a reminder or refresher.

    I really liked the jacket pattern in Modern Tunisian and may actually make it for myself. The jacket pattern comes in sizes small to 2XL. I found the patterns clear and easy to understand even as a person that’s relatively new to tunisian crochet. I enjoyed that the patterns illustrate that you can make some beautiful projects using just the absolute basic tunisian crochet stitches as a beginner tunisian crocheter.

    If you’re interested in checking out Modern Tunisian: 15 Easy Projects Along with Technique Tips and Tricks by Mary Beth Temple, it can be purchased HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Cover of Modern Tunisan by Mary Beth Temple

    Giveaway

    Thanks to Leisure Arts, I have a PDF copy of Modern Tunisian: 15 Easy Projects Along with Technique Tips and Tricks by Mary Beth Temple to giveaway to one lucky winner!

    The Modern Tunisian Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to worldwide participants (void in Quebec and where prohibited by law) and ends Friday, November 20th, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

  • Product Reviews

    Gloss Fingering Weight Yarn Review

    Two hanks of We Crochet Gloss Fingering Yarn with some crochet accessories and the We Crochet Magazine.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    It’s another yarn review Saturday here on the blog and today I’m sharing my review of the Gloss Fingering Weight Yarn from We Crochet. I’ve been absolutely loving working with fingering weight yarns since I tried Hawthorne Fingering Weight yarn earlier this year. I found out that it doesn’t take nearly as long as I feared it would to make things with it so I decided that I needed to try all the fingering weight yarns now.

    This yarn was provided to me free of charge in exchange for my honest review.

    Pin this for Later Save

    Before we get into it, let’s go over the yarn label information so we know what we’re talking about here:

    We Crochet Gloss Fingering Weight:

    • Current Number of Colourways Available: 18. Check them out HERE.
    • Fiber Content: 70% Merino Wool, 30% Silk
    • Weight: 1 (Fingering)
    • Ball Size: 50g
    • Yardage: 220 yd / 201 m
    • Suggested Hook Size: 2.5 – 3.5 mm (B – E)
    • Suggested Needle Size: 2.25 – 3.25mm (US 1 – 3)
    • Crochet Gauge: 21 – 32 scs = 4″
    • Knitting Gauge: 7 – 8 sts = 1″
    • Care: Hand Wash, Lay Flat to Dry
    If you’re planning on buying some Gloss Fingering Yarn, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.
    Two hanks of yarn with some crochet hooks and accessories

    I have the Harvest and Captain colourways of Gloss Fingering yarn to check out and they are GOR-GEOUS. This yarn is aptly named Gloss because it has a beautiful, yet subtle sheen to it and paired with the gorgeously bold colours, it’s just beautiful. There are 18 different colours available in this yarn and I would use every single one of them in my wardrobe. A top made in the Masala, Navy and Zinc colourways? YES PLEASE!

    The yarn is put up in hanks and first impressions upon picking one up was that it felt soft yet sturdy. I had expected it to be a bit softer because of the silk content. I’ve been surprised before by yarns so I grabbed my hooks and got started.

    Crocheting with Gloss Fingering Weight

    Crocheting with Gloss Fingering Weight was a smooth ride from start to finish. The yarn strand has a nice tight ply so it wasn’t prone to splitting while I worked with it. Once I started to work this yarn up, I noticed that it felt softer to the touch than it did in the hank. The sheen in the swatches was subtle and gave a nice depth to the colour. Stitch definition was good and the drape in my tunisian sample was great. I’m a bit of a tight crocheter and think the drape in my basic crochet swatch would be better if I went up a hook size or two from the one I selected for my sample. I really liked the tunisian crochet sample swatch with this yarn but I think I want to do another one with cables as I bet cables would look fab in this yarn.

    Gloss fingering yarn in harvest worked up in a crochet swatch

    Check out the video review of We Crochet Gloss Fingering Weight yarn:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The colourway Captain did leave some colour transfer on my hands that wasn’t great. I didn’t have anything like that happen with the Harvest colourway however. I think this likely happened due to how dark the Captain colourway is dyed. It washed off my hands easily enough and I know to wash this separately to ensure any bleeding colours don’t affect my other laundry. Since this yarn requires that things be hand washed, this isn’t a big deal since I do hand wash items on their own anyways.

    Gloss fingering yarn worked up in a tunisian crochet swatch

    This wasn’t my favourite We Crochet yarn but it was still a lovely yarn to work with. Honestly, I’ve tried so many great yarns from We Crochet it’s hard to choose a favourite. Gloss Fingering is a yarn that I’d probably indulge in if I wanted to make something that was a bit of a luxury item or as a gift for someone. It would be great for shawls, garments or acccessories.

    Thanks for checking out my yarn review. Have you tried Gloss Fingering Weight yarn yet? What did you think? What would you make with it? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Subscribe to my YouTube Channel: The Loopy Lamb on YouTube
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my other yarn reviews:

  • Crochet Patterns

    Sloth Crochet Gift Card Holder Free Pattern

    Crochet gift card holder with a sloth face on it in a flat lay
    This post may contain affilliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Every Christmas I end up giving certain people giftcards for Christmas and they just feel impersonal to me. I wanted a want to make them feel a bit more fun and personal and so what better way to do that, than with crochet? When trying to decide on what kind of crochet gift card holder I would make to spruce things up, I decided on a sloth. My Christmas tree doesn’t have any sloths on it and I gave this sloth crochet gift card holder a hanger so I can hang it on my tree until it’s time to give it away. It has the added bonus of not getting lost among gifts under the tree. Anything that makes things a little bit easier for me during the holidays is a win to me.

    Pin this Sloth Crochet Gift Card Holder Pattern for later SAVE

    This crochet gift card holder will fit the standard sized 3.5″ x 2.5″ rectangular gift card with a small bit of ease to make getting the gift card in and out easier. Gauge will be important to ensuring the best possible fit. It won’t be the end of the world if the gift card holer is a bit bigger than the gift card you’re using but potentially having it turn out smaller could mean you may not be able to get your gift card into it.

    For this project you’ll need worsted weight yarn in three coordinating colours. I used Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet because it’s my favourite acrylic yarn to use right now and it has a great range of colours. I have not been able to get the three colours I like to use for my sloth projects in the same brand before and I was thrilled to find all three of them at crochet.com. This is important to me because using the same brand of yarn in a project helps with consistency in your finished project.

    hands taking a gift card out of the diy gift card holder made with this free crochet pattern

    I specifically used yarn from the Brava Mini Packs in the Reds colours which is a set of mini balls of Brava Worsted Weight Yarn. I use these packs a lot for amigurumi because I can get a great colour selection without having to buy full balls of all the colours. This pattern uses less than a full mini skein of three different colours. If you don’t have the mini packs, that’s fine, the regular Brava Worsted Weight yarn or your preferred worsted weight yarn that you can match gauge with are fine to use.

    Crochet Gift Card Holder Construction Overview

    This crochet gift card holder is made of two different body panels that are seamed together and a set of three appliques that are used to create the sloth’s face are sewn onto one side of the gift card holder. I’ve used crab stitch to seam the two panels of the body together but if prefer to seam it with another stitch like single crochet or slip stitch, those will work as well. Just have fun with it.

    I recently read in a book I reviewed Crochet Hacking by Emma Friedlander-Collins something that stuck with me. It was the author’s personal motto: “It doesn’t matter how you get there. As long as you have fun and you get there in the end.” Crochet is about being creative and having fun. So experiment, have fun and as long as you enjoyed it and you get your project to where you want it to be, that’s a win in my books.

    Other Free Crochet Sloth Patterns Available on my Blog

    If you love sloths, you may be interested in checking out some of my other free crochet sloth patterns that I have here on my blog:

    Sloth Crochet Gift Card Holder made with this free crochet pattern

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this crochet gift card holder pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • HDCINC = Half Double Crochet Increase
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • FO = Finish Off

    Size:

    • 4” long x 3.25” wide


    Gauge:

    • 8.5 sts x 9 sts = 2”

    NOTES:

    • This project is made of two panels and appliques that are used to create the sloth’s face.  After joining the panels together a chain is created and joined from one side to the next so this can be hung on the tree.
    • This project fits a standard 3.5” x 2.25” gift card with a small bit of ease to make getting the gift card in and out simple.
    • Gauge in the body of the gift card holder will be most important to ensuring a proper fit.
    • Stitch markers are used to mark the first stitch of each round for the face and eye patch pieces.  Move the stitch marker up every round to keep track of the first stitch.
    • Instructions given in () are to be repeated the number of times indicated next to the ().

    Special Stitches & Techniques:

    • Crab Stitch: Also referred to as Reverse Single Crochet because you are working Single Crochet stitches from left to right instead of the normal right to left. Insert hook into the next stitch to the right of your hook. YO and pull through ST (two loops on hook). YO and pull through both loops on hook. 
    • Invisible Join: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.

    Sloth Crochet Gift Card Holder Pattern

    Face Patch

    The Face Patch is worked in continuous rounds.  Only join where indicated.

    Using Almond, CH 7.

    Round 1: SCINC in the 2nd CH.  SC 4, SC 4 in the last CH.  Working on the other side of the CH, SC 4, SCINC in last ST.  (16)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x2, SC 4, (SCINC) x4, SC 4, (SCINC) x2 (24)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x2, SC 6, (SCINC, SC) x3, SC 6, SCINC, SC. (30)
    Round 4: SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 8, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x2, SC 8, SCINC, SC 2. (36)

    Sloth crochet gift card holder with a furls odyssey hook, scissors and brava yarn

    FO using invisible join, leaving a long tail to sew onto the gift card holder body.

    Eye Patches (Make 2)

    Using Sienna, CH 5.

    Round 1: HDCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook.  HDC 2, HDC 5 in the last CH.  On the other side of the CH, HDC 2, HDC 3 in the last CH.  (14)

    FO using invisible join, leaving a long tail to sew onto the face.

    We Crochet Accessory Bag with a gift card holder and tools peeking out the top

    Gift Card Holder Body – Panel 1

    Row 1: Using Brindle, CH 18. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each ST across. (17)
    Rows 2 – 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST across. (17)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Gift Card Holder Body – Panel 2

    Row 1: Using Brindle, CH 18. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each ST across. (17)
    Rows 2 – 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST across. (17)
    Do NOT finish Off.


    Sloth Crochet Gift Card Holder in a flay lay with Brava Worsted Weight Yarn and a crochet hook

    Assembly:

    Sew the face patch the right side of one of the gift card body panels.

    If using shank/mushroom buttons: Place the button through the small gap created when you put 5 SCs in the last CH of the eye patch.  Secure button using sewing needle and thread.  Repeat with the other eye patch.  Position each eye patch on the face, slightly overlapping the edge of the face and sew onto gift card holder panel. 

    If you’re using safety eyes: Insert the safety eye through the small gap created when you put 5 SCs in the last CH of the eye patch.  Then position your eye patch at a slight angle on one side and push the safety eye through the face patch.  Put the back on the eye. Repeat with the other eye and eye patch. 

    Sloth Eye Patch image 1
    Sloth Eye Patch 2

    Adding the Nose: Use a length of Sienna, sew a nose onto the face patch approximately 3 STs wide between the eyes. 

    Place Gift Card Holder Panels with wrong sides together and the panel with the yarn still attached on the back.  The working yarn loop should be in the top left corner when facing you.  Pull the working loop from back to front through the front panel and CH 1.  Working through both layers, crab stitch into each stitch and the end of each row along 3 edges of the gift card holder, placing 3 STS in each corner. When you reach the end, CH 20 and attached with a SL ST to the opposite corner to create the hanger.  FO and weave in ends.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend Review

    Front Cover Image of Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend Pattern Book
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    Today we’re taking a look at the new book Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend crochet pattern book from designer Kristi Simpson and Leisure Arts. Thanks to Leisure Arts, I have a PDF copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky reader! Keep reading to learn more about this Besties and how you can enter to win a copy of your own.

    Thank you to Leisure Arts who provided me this book free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

    Pin it for later Save

    Patterns in Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend

    Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend contains 7 crochet doll patterns modelled after the designer’s aunts. Each doll is given a unique personality and style. The patterns are designed in a way to allow you to mix and match the pieces in order to create your own unique doll. Instructions/guidance is given at the beginning of the book to help you through the customization process to design your own doll using the patterns in the book to help set you up for success. The doll patterns are:

    • Fashionista Faye
    • Night-Night Nancy
    • Wistful Wanda
    • Lovely Debbie-Lyn
    • Casual Kaye
    • Dainty Dana
    • Modest Mary-Ann
    crochet dolls in a flay lay, made from the patterns in Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend

    Each doll has a unique outfit to match their personality and style. The clothes are either created using colour changes on the body of the doll or added to the doll separately but are not able to be removed or changed. The ability to mix and match the doll pieces is a great alternative though to having removeable doll clothes.

    Yarns Used in Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend

    If you’re matching gauge, the dolls all measure 16″ tall. The yarns used in the patterns are worsted weight yarns (one pattern uses a small amount of bulky weight yarn) with the brand names and colours given at the back of the book. Brands used in the book include:

    • Premier Yarns Everyday Worsted
    • Red Heart Soft
    • Lino Brand Vanna’s Choice
    • Caron Simply Soft
    • Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca
    • Red Heart Hygge Fur

    These yarns may already be in your stash and if they aren’t available locally, you can easily substitute them for another comparable worsted weight yarn.

    3 different crochet dolls in a flat lay

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The patterns are graded as easy and should be accessible to most crocheters. A range of different stitches and techniques are used in each pattern and are clearly explained for each pattern.

    The dolls are all very cute and offer a great range of options for creating your own doll by mixing and matching the pieces. A lot of detail is put into each doll and with the mix and match option most people should be able to make a custom doll for the little one in their life.

    If you’re interested in checking out Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend by Kristi Simpson, it can be purchased HERE.

    Crochet doll on a hand drawn background.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Thanks to Leisure Arts, I have a PDF copy of Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend by Kristi Simpson to giveaway to one lucky winner!

    The Besties: Every Girl Needs a Friend Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to worldwide participants (void in Quebec and where prohibited by law) and ends Friday, November 13th, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Lobster Hat Free Pattern

    Red Crochet Lobster Hat in a Flat Lay with Crochet Accessories
    This post may contain affilite links. All opinions are my own.

    The Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern is my latest free crochet pattern that I designed as part of the 2020 Holiday Stashdown CAL! This hat is a crochet ear flap hat that’s accessible for beginners and all the sizes use less than a 100g ball of Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium. If you don’t have the recommended yarn don’t worry, you can use any worsted weight yarn from your stash that you’re able to match the patten gauge with.

    For more information about the Holiday Stashdown CAL please visit Marie’s post here: 2020 Holiday Stashdown Crochet Along.

    Be sure to scroll to the end of her post to enter the CAL giveaway before December 31, 2020.

    Image advertisting the CAL Central Holiday Stashdown Crochet Along

    When you share your progress on Social Media add the tags #CALCentralCrochet and #HolidayStashdownCAL so we can check out your projects too!

    The Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern was created when a family friend found out that her daughter was pregnant. She asked me if I could create a fun and goofy crochet lobster hat for her grandson to gift to him when he was born. I created the hat and subsequently a set of lobster mittens and a lobster tail bunting bag. The friend and her daughter both really enjoyed the set I made and I decided that I would grade the hat in all sizes to share it with you all.

    This hat is perfect for gifting and is easy to customize. My son asked me for an alien hat so I used this exact pattern but used green yarn instead of red and it made the perfect alien. The crochet lobster hat is also a bit of an inside joke for my family because my husband has wanted a lobster tree topper forever. He always jokes that lobsters are a Christmas animal. So for us, it was kind of fitting to release the crochet lobster hat pattern going into the holiday season.

    Thanks to my wonderful testers that checked the sizes of these hat for me to make sure they would fit. I really appreciate all their hard work and help!

    Pin this Free Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern for later SAVE

    Looking for other free crochet hat patterns? Check some of my other crochet hat patterns here:

    Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern

    Skill Level:

    • Easy


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    Learn How to Do the Magic Circle For this Pattern:


    Sizes Available:

    • 0 – 3 months, 3 – 6 months. 6 – 12 months, 1 – 3 years, 3 – 5 years, 6 – 10 years, Teen/Adult Small and Adult Large

    Gauge:

    • 14 sts x 10 rounds in HDC = 4 inches


    Notes:

    • This pattern is worked in joined rounds from the top down.  The hat, earflaps and ties are all crocheted on to eliminate sewing.  Then the antennae and eyes are crocheted separately and sewn on. 
    • Gauge is vital to ensuring that your hat will fit as expected.  Do a gauge swatch of HDC stitches done in the round to check your gauge.  Use whatever hook size allows you to match gauge.
    • Always join your rounds in the top of the first HDC of the round, not the CH.
    • The CH 1 at the start of every round does not count as a stitch
    • Always start your rounds in the first stitch of the last round.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern which includes all sizes for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.


    Pinch Me Crochet Lobster Hat Pattern

    0 – 3 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (48)
    Rounds 7 – 14: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (48)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    Ear flap animal hat

    3 – 6 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 11, HDCINC) x 4. Join (52)
    Rounds 8 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (52)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.



    6 – 12 Months

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Rounds 8 – 15: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (56)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    1 – 3 Years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 13, HDCINC) x 4. Join (60)
    Rounds 9 – 17: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (60)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    3 – 5 years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Rounds 9 – 17: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (64)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.



    Red Crochet lobster hat

    6 – 10 years

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 15, HDCINC) x 4. Join (68)
    Rounds 10 – 19 : CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (68)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Teen/Adult Small

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 7, HDCINC) x 8. Join (72)
    Rounds 10 – 19: CH 1, HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (72)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.


    Adult Large

    Round 1: Using Garnet and 6mm hook, make a MC and HDC 8 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (From here on out noted as “Join”). (8)
    Round 2: CH 1, (HDCINC) x 8.  Join. (16)
    Round 3: CH 1, (HDC, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (24)
    Round 4: CH 1, (HDC 2, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (32)
    Round 5: CH 1, (HDC 3, HDCINC) x 8. Join. (40)
    Round 6: CH 1, (HDC 4, HDCINC) x 8. Join (48)
    Round 7: CH 1, (HDC 5, HDCINC) x 8. Join (56)
    Round 8: CH 1, (HDC 6, HDCINC) x 8. Join (64)
    Round 9: CH 1, (HDC 7, HDCINC) x 8. Join (72)
    Round 10: CH 1, (HDC 8, HDCINC) x 8. Join (80)
    Rounds 11 – 21: HDC in the first stitch and each stitch around. Join. (80)
    Do not fasten off.  Start first ear flap as written below.

    Crochet Lobster Hat Ear Flaps

    Ear Flaps for 0 – 3 months to 3 Years Old:

    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 9.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 8: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 9: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Crochet Lobster Hat Ear Flap Placement

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Reattach yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 9.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 8: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 9: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 30. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.


    Ear Flaps for 3 – 10 years:

    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 11.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 10: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 11: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Reattach yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 11.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 10: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 11: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 40. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.

    Ear Flaps for Teen/Small Adult & Large Adult:

    First Ear Flap:

    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 13.  CH 1 and turn. (14)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 10: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 11: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 12: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 13: SCDEC. (1)
    FO and weave in ends.

    Second Ear Flap:

    With the right side of the ear flap facing you, fold the hat in half, leaving slightly more stitches towards the front of the hat than the back.  Place the second earflap lined up with the first earflap. Reattach yarn in your starting stitch.
    Row 1: CH 1 and SC in the first stitch.  SC 13.  CH 1 and turn. (14)
    Row 2: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 3: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (12)
    Row 4: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 5: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (10)
    Row 6: SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 7: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (8)
    Row 8: SCDEC, SC 4, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 9: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (6)
    Row 10: SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 11: SC in the first stitch and each stitch across.  CH 1 and turn. (4)
    Row 12: (SCDEC) x 2.  CH 1 and turn. (2)
    Row 13: SCDEC. (1)
    DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
    Continue to SC around the entire hat and ear flaps. At the top of each earflap: CH 40. SL ST in 2nd chain from hook and up the rest of the chain back to the body of the hat. Continue to SC around the hat.  Join your last stitch to your first stitch with a SL ST and fasten off.


    Eyes for the Crochet Lobster Hat

    Eyes – All Sizes (Make 2)

    Round 1: Using White yarn and 4.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST (from here on out referred to as “Join”). CH 1. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. Join. CH 1 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6. Join. (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6. Join (24)
    FO leaving a long tail to secure onto hat.
    Sew button on the center of each eye using black sewing thread and needle.  Using your tail threaded onto a tapestry needle, secure both eyes to the front of the hat directly next to each other.

    Crochet Lobster Hat Antennae


    Right Antenna – All Sizes (Make One)


    Row 1: Using Garnet yarn and 6mm hook, CH 17.  In the back bump of the CH, SL ST in the 2nd CH of the hook.  SL ST in the back bump of the next 5 CHs. Put 2 SL STs in the back bump of the next 2 CHs.  SL ST in the back bump of the last 8 CHs.  (18)
    FO leaving a long tail for securing to the hat.  Sew onto the top of the hat on the right side.


    Left Antenna – All Sizes (Make One)


    The Left Antenna is worked from the bottom-up so that the right side is facing out.

    Row 1: Using Garnet yarn and 6mm hook, CH 17.  In the back bump of the CH, SL ST in the 2nd CH of the hook.  SL ST in the back bump of the next 7 CHs. Put 2 SL STs in the back bump of the next 2 CHs.  SL ST in the back bump of the last 6 CHs.  (18)
    FO.  Using a long piece of yarn, secure the antennae to top of the hat on the left side.

    That’s it! I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet lobster hats! I’d love to see the hats you made. When sharing them on social media, please tag me or use #theloopylamb so I can see them and possibly share them in my stories.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the crochet lobster hat created with this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet lobster hats!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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  • Product Reviews

    Twill Worsted Weight Yarn Review

    A crochet swatch made of Twill Worsted Weight Yarn, a hank of Twill Worsted Weight and crochet accessories in a flat lay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I have a new yarn to share with you all this week from our friends at We Crochet (crochet.com). It’s called Twill and it is currently available on the We Crochet website in both fingering and worsted weights but today I am reviewing specifically the Twill Worsted Weight Yarn.

    This yarn was provided to me free of charge but all opinions are my own.

    Pin this for Later Save

    Arguably, worsted weight yarn is one of the most readily available and heavily used yarn weights in crochet. There are so many different worsted weight yarns out there, it can make your head spin. But, not all worsted weight yarns are created equal. A slight change in the fibre content, the way the yarn strand is structured or how it is treated can make a big difference. Let’s get the details on the yarn before we take it for a test stitch and see what makes Twill different.

    We Crochet Twill Worsted Weight:

    • Current Number of Colourways Available: 16. Check them out HERE.
    • Fiber Content: 100% Superwash Merino Wool
    • Weight: 4 (medium)
    • Ball Size: 100g
    • Yardage: 149 yd / 136m
    • Suggested Hook Size: 5.5 – 6.5 mm (I – K)
    • Suggested Needle Size: 4 – 5.5mm (US 6 – 9)
    • Crochet Gauge: 11 – 14 scs = 4″
    • Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″
    • Care: Machine wash cold. Tumble dry low.
    If you’re planning on buying some Twill Worsted Weight Yarn, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free yarn reviews like this one and free crochet patterns.
    Hanks of Twill Worsted Weight in Purple and Yellow with two crochet hooks

    First Impressions

    The first thing I noticed about Twill Worsted Weight is that the ply in the yarn strand is really well defined. It kind of looks like a little rope. The strand is dense and has a nice little bit of a sheen to it. It feels like a sturdy, durable yarn. The way the yarn strand is constructed, it isn’t prone to splitting. The colours I have to work with are the Gold Rush and Black Cherry Heather. The colours are bold and gorgeous together. I could barely wait to cake these up and get to work. It looks and feels luxurious as soon as you pick it up out of the box.

    Stitch Definition and The Resulting Fabric in Crochet Swatching

    The stitch definition with this yarn is beautiful and it works up into a nice crocheted fabric. I used a 5.5 mm Furls Odyssey crochet hook to do my swatches here. The resulting fabric is thick and I imagine it would make something warm and lush. I decided to do something a little differently than I have in previous reviews. Rather than try the same three basic stitches (SC, HDC and DC) in both colours of yarn, I decided to try doing a crochet cable on the Black Cherry Heather swatch.

    The cable in this Black Cherry Heather swatch is chunky and has great dimension in this piece, even though the colour is so dark. I really like how it turned out and may try doing something with cables with the Gold Rush Twill since the cable will be a bit more noticeable for photographing.

    Black Cherry Heather Twill crocheted in a cable swatch

    The Gold Rush swatch I decided to add some tunisian crochet to the top of the swatch. On this swatch, I did a few rows of single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet using a 5.5mm crochet hook. I ended my swatch with a few rows of the Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) to see how it would look. I used an 8.0 mm Clover Takumi tunisian crochet hook and I loved the look and the drape of the yarn using the tunisian technique. It really got the creative wheels turning and I’m going to see what I can do for a 1 skein project using this yarn and possibly tunisian crochet.

    crochet swatch of twill worsted weight in gold rush

    Check out the video review of We Crochet’s Twill Worsted Weight yarn:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The yardage in these hanks is only 149 yards so it would be a bit of a splurge purchase to make garment from Twill yarn but I bet it would be beautiful. I’d personally use Twill yarn for 1 to 2 hank projects in order to be able to use a great quality, sumptuous yarn like this but still be budget friendly. If you’re wanting to stretch your yardage further, you could try using this yarn for knitting or tunisian crochet since they (generally) use less yarn than basic crochet. Of course, there are exceptions to that but that is why I say generally. A hat or earwarmer made with this yarn in tunisian stitches would be so squishy and warm!

    Caked up yarn and crochet accessories in a flat lay

    Thanks for checking out my yarn review. Have you tried Twill Worsted Weight yarn yet? What did you think? What would you make with it? Let me know what you thought in the comments below!

    Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest to see all my newest content, behind the scenes sneak peeks and be the first to know when I’m hosting giveaways.

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my other reviews:

  • How To's

    Improve Your Amigurumi Crochet Projects With This One Small Thing

    green monster amigurumi crochet project with crochet accessories
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m working up a draft of an amigurumi pattern while I wait for the yarn I want to use to arrive and I thought I’d share a bit of my process and share some of my favourite tips to help improve your amigurumi crochet projects. What if I told you that you most likely have something in your home right now that can make the difference between your amigurumi crochet project looking haphazard and it being profesionally done? What if I told you that if you don’t have some of these items in your home, that you could get them for probably under $5? You’d probably be saying “shut up already and tell me what it is!”, right?. This magical little item that is often overlooked is sewing pins. Simple, sewing pins. Keep reading and I’ll tell you how to use them to improve all your amigurumi crochet projects.

    Pin these Amigurumi Crochet Project Tips for Later Save

    Sewing pins may seem like they don’t have a place in the crochet world but these little guys are incredibly handy when it comes to amigurumi projects. They can save you a lot of time and frustration when the time is taken to use them in an amigurumi project. It can make the difference of a polished and professionally done amigurumi project and one that looks a bit sloppy. I’m not saying everyone is looking to sell their items or be professional crocheters (ok, we might actually want that last part) but we all want the best results from our projects and sewing pins can help you get them with little to no investment.

    Sewing pins scattered next to a pin box

    TIP 1: Get Those Limbs in Line!

    This little guy may look like a bit of a mess but this mess helps me not only visualize how he will look with the pieces I’ve made attached but it helps me get the ultimate placement for my arms and other attachments that are being sewn on.  Sometimes one crooked or ill-placed piece on an amigurumi project can be the difference between your project looking cohesive and polished or sloppy and rushed.  So use your sewing pins to pin those pieces onto your project before jumping into sewing.  Take your time and be sure you’re happy with the placement before you sew and you’ll save yourself a lot of heartache later.

    unfinished crochet toy being held together with sewing pins

    TIP 2: Use Them to Outline Your Embroidery

    Full disclosure: I am not very good with embroidery.  I’m a Type A perfectionist and embroidery can be frustrating for me.  So, to make things easier for myself, I outline where I want to embroider with sewing pins.  I’ve gone a little overboard in my picture here to make it more obvious but that line of pins across his face?  That’ll be where his mouth goes.  That pin right under the mouth?  That’ll be an itty bitty tooth stitcking out.  The pins help me know where I want to place them and visualize what it’ll look like before I get started.

    Pins placed on an amigurumi toy showing where to embroider
    Close up of an amigurumi crochet monster's face

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    TIP 3: Use Them to Create Consistency When Making Multiple Amigurumi Crochet Projects

    If you ever find yourself in a situation where you’re making multiple projects from the same pattern, create all your pieces for your projects first and get your pins ready. Pin the pieces to each body and line them up to see if you find any noteable differences. If you find one that doesn’t match, simply pull the pins and readjust that piece. Once you’re satisfied with how they all look, sew on the pieces and at the end you’ll have items that should all look nearly identical. This is a great tip for those creating to sell for shops or markets.

    It is crazy how something as small and simple as a sewing pin can help to improve your amigurumi crochet projects so much. I hope you enjoyed these tips and found them helpful. Have you used sewing pins with your amigurumi crochet projects before? Do you use them in a way that I haven’t mentioned above? Let me know in the comments below.

    While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my free amigurumi crochet patterns:

  • Crochet Book Reviews

    Crochet Hacking – A Crochet Book Review

    Copy of Crochet Hacking by Emma Friedlander-Collins surrounded by fabric and crochet accessories.
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    “Hacking” our old clothes is not a new concept. I remember as a teenager “hacking” your old t-shirts to make them into something new being very popular. I remember cutting t-shirts that didn’t fit and piecing them together in different ways and making bags out of old clothes. But something I had never seen during that boom of recycled fashion was crochet hacking. When the opportunity to take a look at Crochet Hacking: Repair and Refashion Clothes with Crochet by Emma Friedlander-Collins came up, I was really interested in checking it out. I was really interested to see what crochet hacks Emma had come up with and how refashioning clothes had changed.

    Thanks to David & Charles for providing me this book for free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.

    Pin it for later Save

    My first impressions of the book were that it is bright, colourful and fun. Crochet Hacking starts off with some details about how much clothing is purchased and subsequently sent to landfills every year. The number is alarming. I knew it was a lot but… wow. I don’t personally buy a lot of clothes but just seeing those numbers makes me really rethink any clothes purchases that I do make.

    Crochet Hacking is broken down into sections by the fabric that you’ll be working with: Denim, Jersey (i.e. t-shirts) and Wool & Other Fabrics. Each of these sections begins with some information about the fabric, a breakdown of the tools you’ll need to work with it as well as some techniques to use. Each section is accompanied by clear and helpful photos to help your understanding of each process.

    infographic showing the impact of disposable fashion on the environment
    denim facts included in Crochet Hacking

    Watch the video version of my review of Crochet Hacking here:

    The patterns in Crochet Hacking are written in the UK terminolgy but the US terminology is provided with every pattern so you aren’t going to have to go searching for it. Most of the patterns in the book are more like recipes. The general guidelines are provided on how to execute the project instead of a standard crochet pattern where they tell you exactly how many stitches to create (i.e. CH 57, SC in the 2nd CH from the hook). This doesn’t mean that you’re on your own though. You’re provided with the instructions so no matter your size or shape, you can use the instructions to make something unique to you.

    There are 17 projects in the book to make. Some of the projects in Crochet Hacking include:

    • Not Your Granny’s Bomber
    • Sashiko Stitched Dungarees
    • Eezypeezy Zipper Jacket
    • Bikini Bird Beach Dress
    • Ikea Bag Hack
    • Magic Granny Slippers
    • Summer Breeze Wrap
    • and more!
    woman wearing the Eezypeezy zipper jacket in Crochet Hacking
    Crochet added to denim to make them into overalls

    Although some of the projects in the book aren’t necessarily something I would personally wear, they do spark ideas and provide techniques for how I can apply crochet hacking to my own wardrobe in a way that works for me. I will be making the Sashiko Stitched Dungarees for my daughter. She is growing like a weed and she has jeans that still fit her around the waist but she’s just gotten too tall for. Because the project instructions are there to accommodate any size, I can apply the same techniques to her jeans and she can have a super cute pair of dugarees or dugaree shorts or a skirt. See where I’m going with this?

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link. This helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    refashioned shirt using granny squares in the book being reviewed

    Most of the instructions were clear and easy to follow. There were a few instances where I had to re-read something to really understand what was needing to be done. There is a general techniques section in the back of the book. The technique section was clear and straightforward, accompanied with illustrations for each stitch/technique. In my personal opinion, this book is best suited for intermediate level crocheters or adventurous beginners.

    Overall, I enjoyed Crochet Hacking and will be looking at my wardobe in a whole different way moving forward. Armed with the techniques in the book, I’ll be trying my hand at a variety of different ways to breathe new life not just into my wardrobe, but my kids’ wardobe too. This book is a great resource for crocheters that love clothes and want to limit the impact they have on the environment or those looking for a way to have more crochet in their wardobe without the time investment of crocheting a new garment from scratch.

    If you are interested in checking out Crochet Hacking, you can find it HERE.

    Find Emma Friedlander-Collins on Instagram HERE. She shares tutorials and crochet hacking inspiration on her feed and is definitely worth the follow.

    Check out some more of my crochet book reviews available for free on my blog:

    Back cover of Crochet Hacking
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Wreath Pattern: Country Winter Wreath

    Crochet wreath with lights hanging on a fireplace mantel.
    This post may contain affilliate links. All opinions are my own.

    It’s almost that time of year and while we may be celebrating a bit differently this year, I can still decorate for the season. When I set out to design my Country Winter Wreath crochet pattern, I wanted to create something that was timeless and classic, accessible for beginners, yet easy to customize. Seems like a tall order but I feel like I was able to hit all my goals with this pattern.

    Pin this Free Crochet Wreath Pattern for later SAVE

    I really like the minimalist look for wreaths and Christmas decor in general but I wasn’t satified with just a beautifully, classic crochet wreath. I wanted to kick it up a notch and make it extra festive. Because, let’s be honest, this feels like a year where we’ll need all the extra festiveness we can get

    I used Whims Merino DK yarn in this design which is a Z-twist yarn. This z-twist really gives crochet stitches a boost in stitch texture. I wanted to choose a basic stitch that would really pop because of that z-twist. I used one of my favourite stitches: The Thicket Stitch. (You can find a stitch tutorial for how to crochet the Thicket Stitch HERE). The result is an absolutely gorgeous stitch texture with no extra effort or difficult stitching required.

    Lime and gold furls crochet hook laying on top of red yarn

    My Country Winter Wreath Crochet Pattern was designed to be easy to customize as well. Don’t like the minimalist look like I went with? Try adding some christmas baubles, extra lights, some greenery, small amigurumis or figurines. The only limit is your imagination my friends.

    While you’re here, check out some of my other easy crochet christmas patterns available for free here on my blog:

    Skill Level:

    • Easy

    Terminology:

    • U.S.

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Christmas wreath lit up on a mantle

    Abbreviations:

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.


    Finished Size:

    • Wreath Body: 6” wide x 44.5” long laid flat
    • Bow: 3” wide x 31” long laid flat

    NOTES:

    • Gauge is not vital to the project although it will affect the amount of yarn needed.
    • This pattern is easily adjustable to be used with other sizes of wreath forms.  Chain an even number of stitches that fit snuggly around the wreath form you have and follow the pattern instructions until your piece is long enough to fit your wreath form.

    Country Winter Wreath – Free Crochet Wreath Pattern

    White Crochet Wreath with a large red bow

    Wreath Body

    Using undyed yarn, CH 32.
    Row 1: (SC, DC) in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next CH*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 CHs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last CH. (31)

    light up crochet christmas wreath


    Rows 2 – 184:  CH 1 and turn. (SC, DC) in the first ST. *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next ST*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 STs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last ST. (31)

    This piece is meant to fit snuggly against the wreath form.  If you aren’t matching gauge or you find your piece isn’t long enough to fit your wreath, continue to add rows of pattern stitch until your piece fits.
    FO.

    close up of the texture on the country winter wreath an easy crochet christmas pattern

    Bow

    Using red yarn, CH 14.
    Row 1:  HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (13)
    Rows 2 – 110: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across (13)
    FO.

    Large red crochet bow close up image



    Piece for Center of Bow

    Using red yarn, CH 7.
    Row 1:  HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (6)
    Rows 2 – 16: CH 1 and turn.  HDC in the first ST and each ST across (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. 

    Battery Pocket (Optional)

    Using undyed yarn, CH 10
    Row 1: (SC, DC) in the 2nd CH from the hook.  *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next CH*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 CHs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last CH. (9)
    Rows 2 –11:  CH 1 and turn. (SC, DC) in the first ST. *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next ST*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 STs remain.  SK 1, SC in the last ST. (9)
    Row 12: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first ST and each ST across. (9)
    FO leaving a long tail to seam the pocket onto the wreath.

    wreath on a wall, made with this easy christmas crochet pattern

    Assembly

    Adding the Lights (Optional)

    If adding lights to your wreath, hold one end of the lights with one hand to hold it in place and use the other hand to wrap the lights around the wreath form until you are back to where you started.  Use a piece of tape or some pins to hold each end of the lights in place temporarily while you cover the wreath with your fabric.

    Pin holding the end of a strand of lights onto the wreath form
    Pin holding the end of a strand of lights onto the wreath form

    Watch How I Wrap My Wreath with Lights Here:

    Covering the Wreath

    With the right side of your wreath body piece you created facing you, wrap the wreath body piece around the wreath form so the long ends touch and the stitches line up.  Using a long length of yarn threaded onto a tapestry needle, mattress stitch the long ends together, working through the ends of the rows.  If you’re using the lights, make sure that the short ends of your wreath body start and end where your lights start and end so that you can make sure the battery pack can be left on the outside of the wreath.  When you reach the end, sew the two ends together and leave a small space for the cord for the battery pack.  FO and weave in ends.

    Here’s a quick video showing me wrap my wreath with crochet and assembling the bow:


    easy christmas wreath on a grey and white door.

    Assembling and Adding the Bow

    Step 1: Lay the bow piece horizontally on a flat surface in front of you.  Take the short ends and cross them over each other to create an x-shape like in the image here.  Pinch the center of the bow together and using a tapestry needle threaded with red yarn, sew a running stitch through all layers of the center of the bow, leaving a tail of a few inches remaining at the end.

    crochet bow tutorial image 1

    Step 2: When you’re finished your running stitch, grab both ends of the yarn and cinch the middle together and tie a knot in the yarn, on the back of the bow.  Leave the tails to secure the bow to the wreath later.

    crochet bow tutorial image 2

    Step 3: Wrap the center piece for your bow around the center of the bow and match the short ends up on the back of the bow. Use your tail to seam the short ends together and secure it to the bow.

    crochet bow tutorial image 3

    Step 4: Using your remaining tails, sew the bow onto the center, bottom point of your wreath.  To help keep your bow from slipping/sagging, when you’re finishing sewing the bow onto the wreath, run your tails under the fabric, in opposite directions and out towards the back of your wreath.  Secure with a knot on the back of the wreath, making sure to poke the knot back inside the fabric.  Now do this process again back towards the front of the wreath, making sure to hide the knot behind your bow.  FO and weave in your ends.

    crochet christmas crafts free crochet pattern

    Adding the Battery Pack Pocket to your Crochet Wreath (Optional)

    Place the pocket piece on the wreath, opposite to the bow. Using your tail, threaded on a tapestry needle, sew around the outside of the battery pack pocket, attaching it to the back of the wreath, leaving one of the short sides of the pocket piece open.  Weave in your ends and place battery pack inside the pocket.

    Crochet christmas decor made with this crochet christmas decor free pattern

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet wreath!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
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      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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