This free crochet bird pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.
This week I’d love to introduce you to my new free crochet bird pattern to make my little friends Bob and Betty Bird. This is a quick and easy amigurumi bird pattern that makes two chubby little birds who are ready for spring. They’re all dressed up to celebrate the spring season and make new friends after a long winter away.
Bob and Betty are a pattern that was created with the help of my two young children. I wanted to make a crochet bird pattern for spring and started on a prototype. Once my children saw it, they both wanted one of their own, in their favourite colours. I was happy to oblige and began making them their own birds.
It felt like the birds needed a little something more though so I asked my kids: “what do you think this little crochet bird needs to make them cuter?” They came up with some fun ideas but ultimately, my daugther decided on a pink flower and eyelashes for her bird and my son wanted a blue hat. My kids are always a big inspiration for me but it was especially fun creating this for them to be exactly what they wanted it to be.
My husband laid claim to the original prototype and wanted nothing added to his. So thanks to my kids, instead of one free crochet bird pattern to share with you today, we have two. We hope you enjoy them. I know my kids certainly do!
For this project I used some wonderful tools from Clover USA, specifically, a Clover Amour crochet hook, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needles and Quick Lock Stitch Markers.
A good quality, comfortable crochet hook and locking stitch markers are vital tools to creating amigurumi. When creating an amigurumi project, the stitches tend to be tighter than other projects in order to prevent the stuffing from showing. This can lead to hand pain if you have an uncomfortable crochet hook. I found this hook to be incredibly comfortable and smoothe to work with.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
I exclusively use locking stitch markers. The reason being is that I don’t trust stitch markers that don’t lock. I’ve had other stitch markers that didn’t lock fall out of my work, losing my place too many times to count. And that, is just too frustrating to deal with. If you really enjoy making amirugumi, then I highly recommend locking stitch markers become your new best friend. The Quick Lock Stitch Markers from Clover were fab. They come in a great little box that latches closed so it helps me keep them all in the same place (besides the ones that fall in my couch lol). Not only did the little kit of stitch markers come with a few different sizes, they look like tiny little sheep. They are just C.U.T.E.!
Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird
Check out those cute little tails!
Check out the free tutorial for this pattern on YouTube!
Skill Level:
Easy
Terminology:
U.S. Terminology
The yarn and some of the tools used in this free crochet bird pattern.
Approximately 3” tall by
4.5” wide from wing tip to wing tip
Gauge:
10.5 sts x 11.5 rows = 2 inches
Notes:
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
The Body, Wing, Beak and Tail pattern is the same for both birds. The only difference is the colour you use. Where “main colour” is indicated, use Fairy Tale (purple) for Betty Bird (she’s wearing a flower) and Denim (blue) for the Bob Bird (he’s wearing a hat).
Body:
Round 1: Using your main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24) Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Round 6: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 5, SCINC, SC 2 (36) Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Round 8: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48) Rounds 9 – 17: SC around (48) – Place safety eyes in Round 15 with 7 sts between them. Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) Round 19: SC around (42) Round 20: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36) Round 21: SC 2, (SCDEC, SC 4) x 5, SCDEC, SC 2 (30) Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing with each round. Stuff firmly. Round 22: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) Round 23: SC 1, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC 1 (18) Round 24: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
FO leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening. Weave in ends.
** For Betty Bird Only** Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye. Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye. Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in. Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash. Repeat with the other eye.
Beak
Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8) Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12) Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) Do NOT stuff. After completing Row 4, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto face. Lining the beak up with the bottom of the eyes, sew onto the face, sewing through both layers of the beak at once.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Wings(make 2)
Round1: Using main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6). Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rounds3 – 5: SC around (12)
After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. Do NOT stuff. Sew wings onto either side of the body, lining the top edge of the wing up with the bottom of the eyes and sewing through both layers of the wings at the same time.
Feet (make 2)
Round1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8) Round2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12) Rounds3 – 5: SC around (12) After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew either side of the body. Do NOT stuff. Sew the feet onto the bottom of your bird along Round 5 with 3 stitches in between them, sewing through both layers of the feet at the same time.
Tail
Round1: Using main colour, CH 10. SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 7, SC 4 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 7, SCINC in the last CH. Do not join. (22) Round2: SC in each st around (22) Round 3: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 10 (20) Round4: SC around (20) Round 5: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18) Round 6: SC around (18)
After completing Round 6, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the bottom part of the back of your bird. Do NOT stuff. Sewing through both layers of the tail, sew the tail onto the bottom of your bird along Round 4 of the body so the tail points out towards the center of the back of the body.
Flowerfor Betty Bird
Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join to first st with a SL ST. FO. Round 2: Change to Rouge, attaching it to the first ST of the previous round.CH 1.(HDC, DC, HDC) in the first st. *(SL ST, HDC, DC, HDC) in the next st.* Repeat instructions in ** 4 more times. Join last st to first st with a SL ST.
FO and weave in ends. Sew to the head of the bird.
Hat for Bob Bird
Round 1: Using Celestial, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24) Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Rounds 6 – 8: SC around (30) Round 9: (SCINC, SC 1) x 15 (45) Round 10: SL ST in each st around. (45) FO. Using a long piece of Celestial yarn, sew the hat onto the top of the bird’s head, adding a bit of stuffing into the hat before closing it up.
Feel free to sell the item
created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when
posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate,
or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as
your own original design. Please do not
use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished
items! Please share your finished makes
by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook,
Instagram and Pinterest
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
Thank you so much to everyone for all the love you showed my first faux fur yarn project: Kaya Koala. So many people were excited to get started on making a crochet koala of their very own but some found using the faux fur yarn a bit intimidating. As a result, I started a YouTube channel and launched my very first YouTube Video sharing my top tips for working with faux fur yarn. I designed my Crochet Koala Keychain as a starter project for those that may be nervous about crocheting with faux fur yarn. It’s small and quick and helps you get the feel of what it’s like to create an amigurumi type project with faux fur yarn.
For my Crochet Koala Keychain project, I have used Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet (crochet.com) in the colour Kuma to create a mini crochet koala head to be used as a keychain. If you leave out the keychain attachments, you could even use it as a pompom on a child’s hat.
The tools you’ll need to complete this project are 14 yards of faux fur yarn, a small amount of worsted weigh yarn in black, large eye tapestry needle, scissors, a pair of safety eyes, a small amount of polyester stuffing, a split ring and a keychain attachment. These whip up so quickly and are honestly, a little addictive to make. I was able to get 5 of these adorable little guys from one skein of yarn.
If you’re nervous about working with fur yarns, check out my video below and get my tips for working with this kind of product.
Crochet Koala Keychain – Free Crochet Pattern
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
The head is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.
Check out the Video Tutorial for this Pattern:
Pattern:
Head
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them. Add stuffing. Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole and sew on your split ring. Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole. Sew the split ring to the top of the head. Weave in ends.
My crochet koala keychain with the toy that inspired it: Kaya Koala – Which is also a free crochet pattern here on my blog.
Nose:
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in black and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Sew onto face and weave in ends.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Ears (Make two)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Sew each ear onto either side of head and weave in ends.
Finishing Touches
The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see.
Attach Keychain to split ring and you’re all finished!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished
items! Please share your finished makes
by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook,
Instagram and Pinterest
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
I have always wanted to design a crochet koala. They’re adorable, furry and just irresistable. I wanted my crochet koala to capture all of those loveable koala qualities and I hope you think that Kaya does. This crochet koala pattern is a relatively easy amigurumi pattern and it is the perfect cuddle size. Plus, this pattern can be made with one ball of Fable Fur yarn and a small amount of worsted weight black yarn.
Kaya the Koala is made using this lovely super bulky Fable Fur yarn I received from my friends at We Crochet (wecrochet.com). I used the colourway Kuma to make Kaya. This faux fur yarn has incredible dimension of colour and really helps bring Kaya to life. This was my first time using faux fur yarn and it exceeded absolutely every one of my expectations. We Crochet just knocked it out of the park with this yarn. It is insanely soft and because of the wide band on the back of the yarn, it is really easy to feel your stitches. Because of the fur, stitch visibility is practically zero but feeling the stitches makes it so much easier to work with. When you see the finished project, stitch visibility doesn’t even matter once you see the beautiful effect of the faux fur. I’ve had people ask me where I bought Kaya because they thought she was a store-bought stuffy. If that’s not a huge compliment, I don’t know what is!
Kaya’s sweet little nose is made with a small amount of Brava Worsted yarn in black which is also from We Crochet. Brava Worsted is a worsted weight acrylic yarn and I used only a fraction of a Brava Worsted Mini Skein to create the nose. This yarn has great stitch definition and was also really enjoyable to use. I’ve started other designs using the Brava Worsted Mini Skeins because they are a great size for amigurumi projects and they come in some really great colours.
If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, check out my video below to get my top tips for working with faux fur yarn.
Are you ready to get started on making your very own crochet koala? Let’s get started.
Kaya the Koala – Crochet Koala Free Pattern
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Approximately 10” tall from top of head to bottom of feet.
Gauge:
4 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches
Notes:
All pieces are worked and sewed onto
the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of
the fur.
All pieces (except the nose) are worked in
continuous rounds. Do not join the ends
of your rows.
Head and Body:
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24) Rounds 5 – 9: SC around.(24) Place safety eyes in Row 6 with 4 sts between them. Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing each row. Round 11: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 12: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) Round 13: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 14: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Rounds 15 – 21: SC around. (18) Round 22: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 23: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO off, using your end to close up the hole. Weave in ends.
Nose:
Row 1: Using black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 3. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC 1. (2) Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC) x 2. (4) Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SCINC, SC 2, SCINC. (6) Rows 4 – 8: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (6) Row 9: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC (4) Row 10: CH 1 and turn. (SCDEC) x 2. (2) Row 11: CH 1 and turn. SC around the outside of the piece, putting a single SC in each st and the end of each row, placing 2 SCs in each of the four corners. Join last st to first st with a sl st. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto head.
Sew nose onto head, between the eyes, adding a small amount of stuffing behind the nose so the nose protrudes off the face a bit.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Ears (make 2)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC around. (18) FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew the ears onto other side of the head. Weave in ends.
Arms (make 2)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8) Rounds3 – 4: SC around (8) Start stuffing, adding more as you work. Round 5: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 2 (6) Rounds 6 –7: SC around (6) FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew arms onto either side of the body near the “neck”.
Legs (make 2)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8) Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (8) FO leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs and sew onto either side of the bottom of the body.
Feel free to sell the item
created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when
posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate,
or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as
your own original design. Please do not
use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished crochet koala! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.
Please note that this is Part Two of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Three we will be crocheting Buttons’ Legs, Tail and Sweater.
Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
Part Three which gives instructions to make the Legs, Tail and Sweater can be found HERE.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Giveaway
Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.
Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs
Gauge:
Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square rows = 2” square
NOTES:
All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method. The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater. Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.
Pattern:
Body
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Row 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36) Row 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Row 8: SC3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48) Rows 9 – 18: SC around (48) Row 19: SC3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3(42) Row 20: SC around (42) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round. Row 21: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36) Row 22: SC around (36) Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30) Row 24: SC around (30) Row 25: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) Row 26: SC around (24) Row 27: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18) Row 28: SC around (18)
FO leaving a long tail to sew the body onto the head. Sew body onto head. Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head. Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Arms(make 2)
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16) Rows 4 – 18: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round. Row 19: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4 (12) FO leaving a long tail. Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the body. Mine are placed approximately 4 rows down from the top of the body.
If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.
Welcome to the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along! Buttons the Bunny is a sweet little amigurumi bunny that my daughter named Buttons. Ironically, Buttons doesn’t have any actual buttons in his pattern but since this was the first thing she hasn’t named Booba or Mister Happy Face, I didn’t have the heart to change his name.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress. There’s also a giveaway sponsored by Clover USA for participants of the CAL so keep reading to learn more.
The free crochet pattern for Buttons the Bunny has been split into three parts to make creating him a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
For those of you that will be tuning in to the live discussions on Wednesdays during the CAL they will be happening at 7:30PM EST on January 15th, 22nd and 29th.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Giveaway
Clover USA has generously offered to sponsor a giveaway for the participants of the CAL! One lucky participant will win a Clover Squad Box full of Clover tools and goodies!
During the crochet along, share your pictures of your progress and finished bunny, tagging me (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB), using #theloopylambCAL. Each photo shared (must be different pictures) will be an entry into the giveaway. Don’t forget to tag us so we can make sure we see them. The giveaway is open to U.S. residents only. Must be 18 years or older to win. This giveaway is not affiliated with Facebook in any way. Giveaway will close Friday February 7th at midnight EST. A winner will be announced Monday, February 10th.
Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs
Gauge:
Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square
NOTES:
All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method. The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater. Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.
Pattern:
Head:
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) X 6 (12) Row 3: (SC1, SCINC) X 6 (18) Row 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC2, SCINC) X 5, SC1 (24) Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) X 6 (30) Rows 6 – 7: SC around (30) Row 8: SC2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) X5, SC2 (36) Row 9: SC around (36) Row 10: (SC5, SCINC) X 6 (42) Row 11: SC3, SCINC (SC6, SCINC) X 5, SC3 (48) – **Place safety eyes in stitches 27 and 44 of Row 11
To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face. As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.
Rows 12 – 16: SC around (48) Row 17: (SC7, SCINC) X 6 (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row. Row 18: SC around (54) Row 19: (SC7, SCDEC) X 6 (48) Row 20: SC around (48) Row 21: SC3, SCDEC (SC6, SCDEC) X 5, SC3 (42) Row 22: (SC5, SCDEC) X 6 (36) Row 23: SC2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) X5, SC2 (30)
Now we’re going to indent the face. Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye. Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn). Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like. You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent. Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together. It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension. Make sure the knot is secure. Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.
Row 24: (SC3, SCDEC) X 6 (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row. Row 25: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC2, SCDEC) X 5, SC1 (18) Row 26: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12) Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO and weave in ends.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Embroidering the Nose
Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC. Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape. Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose. FO and hide your ends inside the head.
Ears (make 2)
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SC2, SCINC) x 2 (8) Row 3: SC around (8) Row 4: (SCINC, SC3) x 2 (10) Row 5: SC around (10) Row 6: (SCINC, SC1) x 5 (15) Row 7: SC around (15) Row 8: (SC2, SCINC) x 5 (20) Rows 9 – 16: SC around (20) Row 17: (SC2, SCDEC) x 5 (15) Row 18: SC around (15) Row 19: (SC1, SCDEC) x 5 (10) Row 20: SC around (10)
FO leaving an extra-long tail to sew onto head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright. After I complete one pass through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation. You can add pipe cleaners to the ears if you’d prefer to help them stand up but I do not recommend giving it to children if they are used.
If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished bunnies!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
My first impression of this book was “adorable!”. The cover art is colourful, inviting and fun. I would’ve definitely picked this up to take a further look when browsing the book store. The bright and fun colours are continued throughout the book and it’s hard not to smile when flipping through it’s pages. The patterns in this book are organized by colour so flipping through this book is like flipping through a rainbow.
Fun illustrations compliment the colourful pages in Kawaii Crochet. One of my favourite features of the book are the little suggestion boxes sprinkled throughout the book. Many of these boxes have puns (which you know I love) and were a fun addition. Besides the puns, the boxes contain tips for additions and alterations to the pattern on that page.
The beginning of the book includes a bit of an intro to colour theory which was interesting. It doesn’t get too technical or in-depth, which keeps it easy and accessible to everyone. It outlines the different colour terms which I found helpful and made me consider how colour theory applies to my own colour choices in my designs.
The book includes 10 pages of tips and instructions for techniques which were clear and helpful. If you’re someone new to crochet that wants to take a stab at making the little cuties in Kawaii Crochet, then you have all the tools needed to get started here in the book.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
The projects in Kawaii Crochet are indeed “super cute” as the title suggests. With everything from pencils and brussel sprouts to condiment bottles and bowls of cereal, there is a great selection of fun and unique patterns in this book. The patterns themselves are clear and easy to follow. I made the beet in the picture below and found the pattern to be quick and simple. My daughter scooped it up immedately and claimed it as her own. My son wants me to make him the pencil (among other things) from the book so the patterns are definitely a hit with little ones.
Overall, the book is a visual pleasure and contains plenty of patterns to keep your interest. Everything in the book is well-thought out to maximize the cuteness factor. The difficulty gauge is illustrated with little clouds! It is really adorable. This book is just cute, cute, cute! I’d gladly gift this book to any crocheter in my life.
Follow Melissa Bradley, the author/designer of this adorable book on Instagram: @yarnblossomboutique.
Kawaii Crochet Giveaway
Thanks to David and Charles publishing, I have a copy of this beautiful book to giveaway to one lucky winner.
The Kawaii Crochet by Melissa Bradley Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to Canadian and U.S. participants and ends January 17th, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.
To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only.
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post and all opinions are my own.
In celebration of Best Friends Day tomorrow, I’ve teamed up with Osage County Crochet to bring you two free crochet patterns this week! While we were brainstorming ideas, we found out that tomorrow is Best Friends Day and wanted to do a best friends theme. After some deliberation, we wanted to make some amigurumi peas and carrots who were best friends. My contribution to this collaboration is Carter the Crochet Carrot.
I have to confess something. As soon as we started talking about our peas and carrots idea, I knew I was going to be putting a moustache on Carter the Carrot. I will put a moustache on ANYTHING. My very first crochet design was a cactus with a moustache on it. I don’t know why, but I think moustaches are hilarious and awesome so I love to put them on stuff.
Carter is a realitively quick and easy project that even beginners can do. You will need to know how to make a magic circle, single crochet, single crochet increase and decrease as well as how to single crochet in the back bump of your chain. (Need to learn how to crochet in the back bump of your chain? Check out this quick tutorial HERE.)
When you’re done here, head on over to Osage County Crochet to check out her part of our collaboration: Beary the Pea.
Get the inexpensive ad-free PDF copy of this pattern which includes step by step photos for making the glasses as well as the moustache template HERE via Etsy or HERE via Ravelry.
Row 1: Using green, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: SC 1, *CH13, SC in the back bump of the 2nd CH from the hook. Working down the CH, SC 11 in the back bump of each CH. SC into the next stitch of Row 2.* Repeat 11 more times. SL ST into the first SC of this round. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto carrot body. Sew onto top of crochet carrot head.
Glasses
Using silver craft/jewelry wire, bend the wire at a 90 degree angle approximately an inch from the end of the wire. Next to the bend, create a circle by wrapping the wire around a large pen/marker once – this creates the first “lens”. Leave some wire straight to act as the bridge of the glasses. Make sure that the bridge is long enough so that when you create the second lens, the eyes should be centered in each “lens”. (I find it’s helpful to measure the space between the two eyes to help me gauge how long the bridge should be.) Wrap the wire around the marker again to create the second “lens”. Create a 90 degree bend in the wire to create the second “arm” and cut off at an inch and a half. Put them on the carrot, inserting the arms into the carrot, through the spaces between the stiches on the outside of the each eye.
(Need more help? A step-by-step photo tutorial for making the glasses is available on the ad-free PDF available HERE via Etsy or HERE via Ravelry.)
Moustache
Cut a moustache out of black felt. Mine is approximately 1 3/8” long. The template that I used for my moustache is available in the PDF of the pattern which is available HERE via Etsy or HERE via Ravelry. Apply some of the fabric glue to one side of the moustache and glue it to your crochet carrot just below the bottom of the glasses.
When you’re done here, don’t forget to head on over to Osage County Crochet to see her pattern for Carter’s best friend Beary Pea.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished Carter the Crochet Carrot! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or use #theloopylamb on Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own.
This week’s project is a free crochet cat pattern to make your own Clawdia Cat. When I was trying to name this pattern I had a few things in mind: J.K. Meowling, Cindy Clawford, Catrina. Obviously, I had to go with some sort of pun and Clawdia Cat eventually won out.
Clawdia is a sweet little crochet cat pattern made with Mary Maxim’s Amigurumi yarn. I discovered this yarn on a visit to my local Mary Maxim location and was intrigued. The yarn was cost-effective and I liked the feel of it so I decided to pick up a few balls to try it out. Mary Maxim Amigurumi yarn is a cotton/acrylic blend (51% acrylic/49% cotton) that gave this project a really nice finish. There was barely any of the typical halo you get when using 100% acrylic yarn. It’s a size 3 yarn and currently comes in 14 different colours.
If they ever make this yarn in a worsted weight, I’m going to buy a ton of it. I really enjoyed working with it but I do have a preference for using worsted weight yarn for my projects. The balls of this yarn have 142 yards in them so I was almost able to get 2 full Clawdia cats from a single ball of grey which is pretty awesome. Ready to make your own Clawdia Cat using this free crochet cat pattern? Let’s get started.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Etsy and HERE on Ravelry to help me keep my patterns free.
Finished size: Approximately 5” from base to tip of ears
NOTES:
This pattern was written using U.S. terminology
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless indicated) which means you do not join the end of the rounds with a sl st.
Free Crochet Cat Pattern
Head
& Body
Using Grey yarn, make a MC. Row 1: SC 6 in the MC. (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Row 4: SC 1, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Row 6: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36) Row 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Row 8: SC 3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48) Rows 9 – 16: SC around (48) *Insert safety eyes in Row 11 with 4 stitches in between them* Row 17: SC 3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC)x5, SC 3 (42) Row 18: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36) *Start stuffing, adding a bit more every couple of rows. Stuff firmly* Row 19: SC 2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30) Row 20: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) Row 21: SC 1, SCDEC (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18) Row 22: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12) *Stop stuffing* Row 23: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Row 24: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC1 (24) Row 25: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Rows 26 – 32: SC around (30) Row 33: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) *Start stuffing, adding a bit more every couple of rows. Stuff firmly* Row 34: SC 1, SCDEC (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18) Row 35: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12) Row 36: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO and weave in ends.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Ears
(Make 2)
Using Grey yarn, make a MC. Row 1: SC 6 in the MC. (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rows 3 – 4: SC around (12) Row 5: (SC1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Rows 6 – 8: SC around (18) FO leaving a long tail to sew onto head. Sew an ear on either side of the head.
Arms (Make 2)
Using Grey yarn, make a MC. Row 1: SC 6 in the MC. (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rows 3 – 9: SC around (12) *start stuffing as you go; stuff firmly* Row 10: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. Secure onto the body.
Legs (Make 2)
Using Grey yarn, make a MC. Row 1: SC 6 in the MC. (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rows 3 – 9: SC around (12) *start stuffing as you go; stuff firmly* Row 10: (SCDEC, SC1) x 4 (8) FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. Secure onto the body.
Tail
Using Grey yarn, make a MC. Row 1: SC 6 in the MC. (6) Rows 2 – 16: SC around (6) FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body. If using the pipe cleaner so the tail is bendable, bend the tip of the pipe cleaner on itself so the wire won’t stick out the end. Cut the pipe cleaner to the same size of the tail and insert it into the tail. Sew the tail onto the body.
Skirt
Using red yarn, CH 30. Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and in each stitch across. CH 1 and turn. (29) Row 2: SC in the first stitch and in each stitch across. CH 2 and turn. (29) Row 3: DC 2 in the first stitch. DC 4 in the next 27 stitches. DC 2 in the last stitch. (112)
Bow
Row 1: Using red yarn, CH 11. DC 2 in the 3rd CH from the hook. DC, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC, DC 5 in the last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, DC, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC, DC 2 in the last CH. Join with a SL ST. Row 2: CH 1. SC 5, SL ST, SC 11, SL ST, SC 5. Join with a SL ST to the first stitch. FO and weave in ends. Using a long piece of red yarn approximately 15” long, secure the end to the back, center point of the bow and wrap the yarn around the center of the box a few times. When done wrapping, secure the yarn in the back and use the remaining length of yarn to sew the bow onto the head of your Clawdia Cat.
Face
Using the pink embroidery thread, embroider a nose. Start in the stitch indicated below and insert your needle into the one stitch below and to the right of the starting stitch. Fill in the stitches between the starting stitch and the indicated finishing stitch. FO.
To embroider the
mouth, using black embroidery thread, start in the same stitch that the point
of the nose is in. Insert the needle in
the stitch indicated below.
Insert
the needle through the indicated stitch below (three stitches to the right and
one stitch up) and back through the last stitch.
Insert the needle
into the stitch three stitches over and one stitch up.
Using the black
yarn, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye. Start in the stitch directly next to the
centre/side of each eye. Insert the needle
into the next stitch and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes
in. Bring the needle back out one stitch
above the first eye lash. Repeat with
the other eye.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished Clawdia Cat! Please share your finished makes using this free crochet cat pattern by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or using #theloopylamb on Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
I had a whale-y good time coming up with the crochet whale pattern for Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwal. This is my first published amigurumi pattern that I’ve designed that isn’t a cactus so I’m pretty excited about these guys. This crochet whale pattern is easily customized by adding bows, eyelashes etc. and they would make a cute baby shower gift or child’s gift. (If you are giving as a gift to a child, I would recommend embroidering eyes as safety eyes can be dangerous for young children).
I feel like I can’t move in my house without finding one of these guys laying around. Once my kids saw what I was making, they each wanted one. Add in the extras I made to test the pattern and get it just right and there are a lot of whales. So I’m happy to say that I finally have it done and I won’t be making any more whales (at least for a week or two because I have a whale of a time making them).
For this crochet whale pattern you’ll need to know how to make a magic circle, single crochet, slip stitch, single crochet increase and single crochet decrease. Althought not necessary, you should know how to do the ultimate finish to get the best looking end to your tail fins. Planet June has a great tutorial and I highly recommend checking it out if you don’t already know how to do this technique. Check out Planet June’s Ultimate Finish Tutorial here.
Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal are made from the same pattern, just done in different colours and Ned is given a tusk to make him a Narwhal. I hope you enjoy making your own whales. Share them on Instagram by tagging me or using the hashtag #theloopylamb.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Etsy and HERE on Ravelry to help me keep my patterns free.
Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal – Free Crochet Whale Pattern
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Supplies
Worsted Weight Yarn in Teal and White for Ned and Pink for Wanda. I used Loops and Thread Impeccable in Aqua and White for Ned and Loops and Thread Arbor Rose for Wanda.
One Size – approximately 7.5” long from head to tail and 4.5” from pectoral fin to pectoral fin.
NOTES:
Both Wanda and Ned are made from the same pattern but to make Ned, you’ll need to make the tusk in order to make Ned. Wanda is Pink and Ned is Teal.
This pattern is written using U.S. terminology
When finishing off your tail fins, I recommend using the ultimate finish technique. You can find a wonderful tutorial for this technique HERE via the Planet June website.
Pattern:
Body:
Row 1: Using your main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Row 2: SCINC x 6 (12) Row 3: (SCINC, SC1) x 6 (18) Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC2, SCINC) x 5, SC1 (24) Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Row 6: SC2, SCINC (SC4, SCINC) x 5, SC2 (36) Row 7: (SC5, SCINC) x6 (42) Rows 8 – 21: SC around (42) – Insert safety eyes in stitch 21 and stitch 40 of Row 15. Row 22: (SC5, SCDEC) x 3, SC21 (39) Row 23: SC around (39) Row 24: (SC4, SCDEC) x 3, SC21 (36) Row 25: SC around (36) Row 26: SC2, SCDEC, (SC3, SCDEC) x 3, SCDEC, SC15 (31) *Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every few rows. Stuff firmly.* Row 27: SC around (31) Row 28: (SCDEC, SC2) X 4, SCDEC, SC13 (26) Row 29: SC around (26) Row 30: (SCDEC, SC1) X 4, SCDEC, SC10, SCDEC (20) Row 31: SC around (20) Row 32: (SCDEC, SC1) X 3, SCDEC, SC5, SCDEC X2 (14) Row 33 – 35: SC around (14) Row 36: SCDEC, SC5, SCDEC, SC5 (12) Row 37: SC around (12) Row 38: SCDEC, SC4, SCDEC, SC4 (10) Row 39: (SCINC) X 2, SC2, (SCINC) X 3, SC2, SCINC (16) Row 40: SC around (16) Row 41: SC4, (SCINC) x 2, SC6, (SCINC) X 2, SC2 (20) Row 42: (SCINC) X 4, SC6, (SCINC) X4, SC6 (28) Row 43: SC around (28) Row 44: SC11, SLST through 12TH and 25TH STS together. Place a stitch marker in stitch 24. Turn work and work right tail fin in the next stitch to the left of the SL ST. SC2 (14)
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Row 45: SC4, SCDEC, SC5, skip
SL ST from previous round, SC 2 (12) Row 46: (SCDEC, SC2) X 3 (9)
Row 47: (SCDEC, SC1) X 3 (6)FO and weave in ends.
LEFT TAIL FIN
Row 1: Attach yarn into stitch 24 of Row 44. SC in that stitch and place a stitch marker (this is now your first stitch). SC around (13) * Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing every few rows. Stuff firmly.* Row 2: SC6, SCDEC, SC5 (12) Row 3: (SCDEC, SC2) x3 (9) Row 4: (SCDEC, SC1) x 3 (6) FO and weave in ends.
PECTORAL FINS (make 2)
Row 1: MC 5 (5) Row 2: (SCINC) x 5 (10) Row 3: SC around (10) Row 4: (SCINC, SC4) x2 (12) Row 5 – 6: SC around (12) Row 7: (SC4, SCDEC) x 2 (10) Row 8: (SC3, SCDEC) x 2 (8) FO leaving a long tail to sew fin on to the body. Sew a fin on either side of the body
TUSK (optional for if you’re making Ned the Narwhal)
Row 1: Using white yarn, leave a long enough chain to sew the horn onto the body, CH12. Join with SL ST to the first CH to make a circle, taking care not to twist your chain. (12) Row 2: CH 1, SC in the 1st stitch and in each stitch around. Do not join at the end of the round. (12) Row 3: (SC4, SCDEC) x 2 (10) Row 4: SC around (10) Row 5: (SC3, SCDEC) x 2 (8) Row 6: SC around (8) Row 7: (SC2, SCDEC) x 2 (6) Row 8: SC around (6) Row 9: (SC1, SCDEC) x 2 (4) FO and weave in ends. Sew onto the middle of the head and weave in ends.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished Wanda the Whale and Ned Narwhal made with this free crochet whale pattern! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or using #theloopylamb on Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post. All opinions are my own.
If you’ve been following me for a while, you know that I love to give my crochet cactus projects some personality. When brainstorming my list of projects, a bunny cactus was high on my list. I had a lot of ideas floating around in my head and I decided that I wanted something with a clean and simple but adorable look. Soon after, Penny the Bunny Cactus was born.
Originally, Penny was going to be named Betsy but it just didn’t feel like the best fit for her. So thank you to everyone on Facebook and Instragram that suggested names for Penny. There were a lot of great suggestions which made it very difficult to choose. Eventually I narrowed it down to two and it was a coin toss after that.
You can make your very own by following the free crochet pattern for Penny the Bunny Cactus below.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Etsy and HERE on Ravelry to help me keep my patterns free.
Worsted Weight Yarn in Green, Brown, White, Pink and Red. I’m using Bernat Premium in Spring Green, Red, White and Pink the cactus body, bow and ears. I’m using Loops and Thread Impeccable in Chocolate Brown for the soil.
Approximately 5.5” tall from bottom of soil to top of head once assembled (ears not included in measurement)
Important
Notes:
No matter your skill level, I always suggest that you read through the pattern from beginning to end before beginning your work just to be sure you don’t have any questions that might cause frustration in the midst of your project.
Instructions within the brackets () are to be repeated the number of times specified next to the brackets.
Penny the Bunny Cactus – Free Crochet Cactus Pattern
SOIL
Worked in continuous rounds.
Row 1: Using brown yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Row 4: SC, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Row 5: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30) Row 6: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36) Rows 7 – 16: SC around (36) Row 17: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30) Row 18: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24) Row 19: SC, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18) Row 20: (SCDEC, SC) x 6 (12) Row 21: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO and weave in ends.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Cactus
Body
Using green and leaving a long tail, CH20.
Row 1: SC in the 2nd
chain from the hook and in each chain across.
CH1 and turn. (19) Row 2: SC in the first stitch. SC in the back loop of the next 17
stitches. SC under both loops of the
last stitch (19)
Repeat row 2 until the piece measures 16 cm.
FO, leaving a long tail. Work a running
stitch along the long side of the cactus, working into the row ends. Pull the yarn tight to close the cactus (like
a drawstring). Without fastening off,
seam the two short sides together by putting the needle through the bottom loop
of both stitches to recreate the ribbing effect for the seam. Insert the safety
eyes with two ridges between them. Stuff firmly. Work a running stitch along the open edge and
pull tightly to close the cactus completely.
Secure and weave in your ends. Sew
onto soil.
Ears
(make 2 in pink (inner ear) and 2 in white (outer ear))
CH 11 Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 6. HDC 2, HDC 5 in the last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, HDC 2, SC 7. CH 1 and turn.(23) Row 2: SC 7, HDC 2, HDCINC x 5, HDC 2, SC 7.(28) FO.
Ear Assembly:
To assemble the ears, we are going to crochet through the stitches of both ear pieces (one pink and one white). Take a pink ear and a white ear and put the two wrong sides together. Attach the white yarn in the first stitches of both the pink and white pieces. SC in the first stitch of both pieces. SC 6, HDC 2, (HDCINC) x 10, HDC 2, SC 7. FO with long tail to secure the ear to the head. Repeat with remaining ear pieces to create the second ear.
Secure each ear to the head of the cactus approximately an
inch to an inch and a half apart.
Bow
Row 1: Using red yarn, CH 11. DC 2 in the 3rd CH from the hook. DC, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC, DC 5 in the last CH. Working on the other side of the chain, DC, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC, DC 2 in the last CH. Join with a SL ST. (23) Row 2: CH 1. SC 5, SL ST, SC 11, SL ST, SC 5. Join with a SL ST to the first stitch. (23) FO and weave in ends. Using a long piece of red yarn approximately 15” long, secure the end to the back, center point of the bow and wrap the yarn around the center of the box a few times. When done wrapping, secure the yarn in the back and use the remaining length of yarn to sew the bow onto the head.
Using the pink embroidery thread, embroider a nose. Using the black yarn, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
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