I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.
The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.
Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip
Gauge:
Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
NOTES:
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Pattern
Hair
Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36) Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45) Round 9: SC around (45) Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains. SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail. Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail. Weave in ends.
NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH. To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand. For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)
If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.
The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.
Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip
Gauge:
Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
NOTES:
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:
Pattern
Adding Eyelashes
Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye. Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye. Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in. Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash. Repeat with the other eye.
Nose
Take a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches. Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly. FO and weave in end.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Arms (make two)
Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go. Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9) Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9) Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11) Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11) FO leaving a long tail. Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.
Dress
Using Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37 Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30) Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40) Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32) Row 4: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST and CH across (32) Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32) Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36) Row 7: CH 6 and turn. SC in each ST across (36) Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40) Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (40)
Row 14: CH 1 and turn. SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40) Row 15: CH 1 and turn. (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60) Row 16: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (80) Row 17: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST. (100) Row 18: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST. (120) FO and weave in ends. The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress. Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7. Put dress on doll and fasten.
If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
I’m so excited to share my amigurumi doll pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This amigurumi doll pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part One of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.
The free crochet doll pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.
Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip
Gauge:
Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
NOTES:
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Amigurumi Doll Pattern Below:
Pattern
Leg 1
Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24) Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18) Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15) Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot. Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
Place a stitch marker into the 3rd ST of the last round of the leg. FO but do not weave in your end.
Leg 2
Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24) Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18) Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15) Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot. Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
Do NOTFO. We will continue onto the body now.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Body
Round 1: Working into the top of the 2nd leg, SC 8, CH 1, SC into the 3rd ST of the last round of the first leg. SC 11 around the first leg, CH 1 and SC in the last 4 STs of the 2nd leg. (26) Pull the end from finishing off the first leg through the hole between the two legs and use it to sew up the hole. Round 2: SC in each ST around (26) Round 3: SC 7, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 4 (29) Round 4: SC around (29) Round 5: SC 7, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 15 (32) Rounds 6 – 9: SC around (32) Round 10: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 2 (28) Round 11: SC around (28) Round 12: SC 11, SCDEC, SC 15 (27) Round 13: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 7 (25) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly. Round 14: SC around (25) Round 15: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 6 (23) Round 16: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 7 (21)
Round 17: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 5 (19) Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 4 (17) Round 19: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 3 (15) Round 20: SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC, SC 2 (12) Round 21: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly. Round 22: (SC, SCINC) X 6 (18) Round 23: SC, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24) Round 24: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Round 25: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36) Round 26: SC around (36) Round 27: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Rounds 28 – 29: SC around (42) Round 30: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48) Rounds 31 – 32: SC around (48) Round 33: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) – Place safety eyes in Round 33 with 7 sts in between them Rounds 34 – 35: SC around (42) Round 36: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36) Round 37: SC around (36) Round 38: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30) Round 39: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) Round 40: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18) Round 41: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12) Round 42: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
FO and weave in ends.
If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
I was recently given the opportunity to review Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie. In this book, Vanessa Mooncie provides the designs for 10 gorgeous, realistic amigurumi birds. Keep reading to learn more about this book and how you can enter to win a copy of the book.
I have been a long-time admirer of Vanessa Mooncie’s work when I stumbled across her on Instagram and saw this beautiful picture of a show-stopping crochet barn owl. As an absolute owl-fanatic, I was hooked. I later learned that the pattern for that same crochet barn owl is in this book Crocheted Birds: A Flock of Feathered Friends to Make by Vanessa Mooncie. So when the chance to review this book became available, I was obviously all over it.
The designs in this book are absolutely gorgeous. I seriously love them. These designs aren’t your standard amigurumi designs though. They are meticiulously constructed and more of an art piece than a toy. The list of supplies needed for each bird is a little more extensive than you may expect because the designs utilize various gauges of wires which would require you to utilize pliers, glass teddy bear buttons for eyes and adhesives. Because of the wires and the glass eyes, these projects wouldn’t be appropriate to give to young children.
Check out the video version of this review here:
Patterns are given in Crocheted Birds for the following birds:
Blackbird
Robin
Blue Tit
Wren
Budgie
Dove
Cardinal
Swan
Bald Eagle
Barn Owl
The projects are a variety of sizes. The largest being the bald eagle, followed by the swan. My favourite design is the barn owl but the swan is a close second. The designs to create realistic bird eggs for each bird species in the book are also included.
Most people won’t have everything in their house to make the birds exactly as written but to get the desired effect, it’s worth the time to get the supplies. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, I was unable to obtain all the supplies necessary to make the birds exactly as written. But, I didn’t let that stop me. Knowing that my bird wouldn’t be exactly like the book, I decided to try one of the patterns with what I had on hand. I decided to give the cardinal a try since I had some red and black yarn on hand and after reading through the pattern, I figured I could accomplish something similar with my on hand materials.
The pattern worked up quickly and the techniques that are used in creating the patterns in this book really gave me an education in looking at amigurumi shaping in a completely different way. Rather than just working in rounds, short rows are used to assist in chaping the bird and creating the main part of the bird all in one piece. Despite the fact that I had never done amigurumi in this way, the pattern was clear and easy to understand. Charts are included for all of the patterns in this book to assist with ensuring the patterns are understood but honestly, I didn’t even need them.
Even without the exact same materials, my crochet cardinal turned out incredibly and I am really happy with how he turned out. I will probably make another one once I’m able tot get the proper wires because the legs on this one aren’t as strong as I’d like them to be, but I knew that was a possibility because I didn’t have the right materials on hand.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
The book is written in UK terminology and after looking for it, I found that a UK to US terminology conversion chart was included in the resource section in the back of the Crocheted Birds book. The resource section itself was well instrated, helpful and just, well, cool. There is a section that shows you step-by-step how to make the birds’ legs and as I’ve never attempted to make birds’ legs from wire, I found it really cool how it was accomplished. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The illustrations that accompanied the instructions were really helpful.
I think this book is best suited for intermediate level crocheters. Although there are great resources available in the book to assist you in creating the projects in Crochet Birds, ultimately, despite the clear instructions, I think the construction techniques may be confusing to beginners, and leave them frustrated.
I absolutely love this book and it has become one of my favourite pattern books that I’ve come across in a while. Not only are the designs gorgeous, the book has taught me a few things and the unique construction of each bird kept me thoroughly engaged and interested from beginning to end. If you’re interested in birds, amigurumi or even just trying different amigurumi shaping techniques, this is a beautiful addition to your crochet library.
Follow Vanessa Mooncie, the author/designer of this book on Instagram: @vanessamooncie. I’ve also reviewed another book by Vanessa Mooncie called Simple Crocheted Hats. You can check out that review HERE.
Thanks to GMC Publications, I have a copy of this beautiful book to giveaway to one lucky winner.
The Crocheted Birds Book Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to Canadian and U.S. participants and ends Friday, June 19, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.
To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only.Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.
I am so excited to share my brand new free crochet sloth pattern with you to make my friend Seth the Sloth. This is a relatively simple amigurumi pattern that just looks incredible using the faux fur yarn. All my friends and family that have seen him want him or one of their own. This is my favourite crochet sloth pattern that I’ve created so far and I’m sure you’ll love him too.
When I got the idea for making an amigurumi sloth, I tried a few different things but I never felt really happy with them. After I made my crochet koala, Kaya Koala (get her free crochet pattern HERE), I fell in love with working with faux fur yarn and I just knew that I had to use it to make a sloth. Once I had that I idea, I started immediately and worked on it late into the night. I was so inspired that I couldn’t put the hook down! I knew I’d pay for my lack of sleep the next day but I didn’t care. I HAD to finish the sloth and I wouldn’t rest until I did.
When I was finally finished (at an obscenely late hour for someone whose kids were going to be waking up at 6am), I was ecstatic. Tired, but ecstatic. I put Seth up on a shelf so my kids couldn’t get a hold of him before I was able to take pictures of him and headed to bed. The next morning, my kids went crazy as soon as they saw him and immediately started arguing over who was going to keep him. After explaining to them that Seth was for Mommy’s blog and that Mommy was going to keep him for a while, they agreed to wait until I was done with him to play with him… but only if I would let them each pet and cuddle him for a minute. Honestly, seeing how excited my kids get over my projects makes me more excited about them and seeing the joy on their faces when I give them a new toy I create makes it all worth it.
This free crochet sloth pattern uses mushroom buttons instead of safety eyes, so for safety reasons, I wouldn’t recommend giving this toy to a small child that may put the toy in their mouth. My children are past that stage so I feel comfortable letting them play a toy that has buttons for eyes like Seth does.
I got the yarn to make this project from Wecrochet.com. I am so in love with their Fable Fur yarn and their Brava Worsted yarns. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products. If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Face Patch made with
Worsted Yarn: 10 sts x 11 rows = 2 inches
NOTES:
All pieces are worked and sewed onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
All pieces with the exception of the face patch made with worsted yarn, are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join the ends of your rows (except where noted).
Face and Head:
Row 1: Using Dove Heather and 3.5mm hook, CH 9. SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 6, SCINC in the last CH. (10) Row 2: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 8, SCINC in the last ST. (12) Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 10, SCINC in the last ST. (14) Row 4: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 12, SCINC in the last ST. (16) Rows 5 – 7: Turn. CH 1. SC across. (16) Row 8: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC (14) Row 9: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC (12) Row 10: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC (10) Row 11: Turn. CH 1. SC across. Turn. (10) Change to Fable Fur Kuma and 5.5mm hook. Round 12: Turn piece clockwise and place 24 SC evenly around the outside edge of the piece. When you get to first and last rows of the piece, you will have to insert your hook into the top of the first row (between Rows 1 and 2 – see picture below for help) and the top of Row 10 (between Rows 10 and 11 – see picture below for help) in order to get your hook and yarn through the piece. Turn the piece so the furriest side is facing you. That’s now the right side.
Round 13: Working in continuous round now with the right side facing you, SC in each ST around (24) Round 14: SC around (24) Round 15: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30) Rounds 16 -17: SC around (30) Round 18: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24) Round 19: SC around (24) Round 20: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing as you go. Round 21: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 22: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew up the hole.
Eye Patches: (Make 2)
Using Black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 7. Round 1: SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 4, SC 5 in the last CH. On the other side of the CH, SC 4, SC3 in the last CH. (18)
Join with a sl st and FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Place the back of the button through the small gap created when you put 5 SCs in the last CH of the eye patch. Secure button using a length of black yarn and your tapestry needle. Repeat with the other eye patch. Position each eye patch on the face, slightly overlapping the edge of the face and sew onto the face.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Nose
Using a length of black yarn approximately 15 inches long, embroider a nose onto the face of your sloth approximately 3 stitches long. There should be 3 stitches on either side of the nose between the nose and the end of eye patches.
Body
Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24) Round 5: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30) Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (30) Round 8: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24) Round 9: SC around (24) Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) Round 11: SC around (18) Round 12: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) – Start stuffing. Adding a bit more stuffing after each round. Rounds 13 – 14: SC around (12) FO leaving a long tail to secure to the head. Sew the body onto the head, adding more stuffing as you seam to support the head. Stuff firmly.
Arms (Make 2)
Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6) FO leaving a long tail to sew arms onto body. Do not stuff. Sew arms onto either side of the body just below where the head meets the body.
Legs (Make 2)
Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6) FO leaving a long tail to sew legs onto body. Do not stuff. Sew legs onto either side of the bottoms of the body.
Disclaimer:
Feel
free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit
back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate,
or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as
your own original design. Please do not
use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d
love to see your finished items! Please
share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our
Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget
to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
This free crochet bird pattern has been sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.
This week I’d love to introduce you to my new free crochet bird pattern to make my little friends Bob and Betty Bird. This is a quick and easy amigurumi bird pattern that makes two chubby little birds who are ready for spring. They’re all dressed up to celebrate the spring season and make new friends after a long winter away.
Bob and Betty are a pattern that was created with the help of my two young children. I wanted to make a crochet bird pattern for spring and started on a prototype. Once my children saw it, they both wanted one of their own, in their favourite colours. I was happy to oblige and began making them their own birds.
It felt like the birds needed a little something more though so I asked my kids: “what do you think this little crochet bird needs to make them cuter?” They came up with some fun ideas but ultimately, my daugther decided on a pink flower and eyelashes for her bird and my son wanted a blue hat. My kids are always a big inspiration for me but it was especially fun creating this for them to be exactly what they wanted it to be.
My husband laid claim to the original prototype and wanted nothing added to his. So thanks to my kids, instead of one free crochet bird pattern to share with you today, we have two. We hope you enjoy them. I know my kids certainly do!
For this project I used some wonderful tools from Clover USA, specifically, a Clover Amour crochet hook, Chibi Bent Tip Tapestry Needles and Quick Lock Stitch Markers.
A good quality, comfortable crochet hook and locking stitch markers are vital tools to creating amigurumi. When creating an amigurumi project, the stitches tend to be tighter than other projects in order to prevent the stuffing from showing. This can lead to hand pain if you have an uncomfortable crochet hook. I found this hook to be incredibly comfortable and smoothe to work with.
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
I exclusively use locking stitch markers. The reason being is that I don’t trust stitch markers that don’t lock. I’ve had other stitch markers that didn’t lock fall out of my work, losing my place too many times to count. And that, is just too frustrating to deal with. If you really enjoy making amirugumi, then I highly recommend locking stitch markers become your new best friend. The Quick Lock Stitch Markers from Clover were fab. They come in a great little box that latches closed so it helps me keep them all in the same place (besides the ones that fall in my couch lol). Not only did the little kit of stitch markers come with a few different sizes, they look like tiny little sheep. They are just C.U.T.E.!
Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob and Betty Bird
Check out those cute little tails!
Check out the free tutorial for this pattern on YouTube!
Skill Level:
Easy
Terminology:
U.S. Terminology
The yarn and some of the tools used in this free crochet bird pattern.
Approximately 3” tall by
4.5” wide from wing tip to wing tip
Gauge:
10.5 sts x 11.5 rows = 2 inches
Notes:
This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
The Body, Wing, Beak and Tail pattern is the same for both birds. The only difference is the colour you use. Where “main colour” is indicated, use Fairy Tale (purple) for Betty Bird (she’s wearing a flower) and Denim (blue) for the Bob Bird (he’s wearing a hat).
Body:
Round 1: Using your main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24) Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Round 6: SC 2, (SCINC, SC 4) x 5, SCINC, SC 2 (36) Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Round 8: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48) Rounds 9 – 17: SC around (48) – Place safety eyes in Round 15 with 7 sts between them. Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) Round 19: SC around (42) Round 20: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36) Round 21: SC 2, (SCDEC, SC 4) x 5, SCDEC, SC 2 (30) Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing with each round. Stuff firmly. Round 22: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) Round 23: SC 1, (SCDEC, SC 2) x 5, SCDEC, SC 1 (18) Round 24: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 25: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
FO leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening. Weave in ends.
** For Betty Bird Only** Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye. Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye. Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in. Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash. Repeat with the other eye.
Beak
Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8) Round 2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12) Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) Do NOT stuff. After completing Row 4, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto face. Lining the beak up with the bottom of the eyes, sew onto the face, sewing through both layers of the beak at once.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Wings(make 2)
Round1: Using main colour, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6). Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rounds3 – 5: SC around (12)
After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. Do NOT stuff. Sew wings onto either side of the body, lining the top edge of the wing up with the bottom of the eyes and sewing through both layers of the wings at the same time.
Feet (make 2)
Round1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 8 into the MC. (8) Round2: (SC 1, SCINC) x 4 (12) Rounds3 – 5: SC around (12) After completing Row 5, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew either side of the body. Do NOT stuff. Sew the feet onto the bottom of your bird along Round 5 with 3 stitches in between them, sewing through both layers of the feet at the same time.
Tail
Round1: Using main colour, CH 10. SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 7, SC 4 in the last CH. Working up the other side of the CH, SC 7, SCINC in the last CH. Do not join. (22) Round2: SC in each st around (22) Round 3: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 10 (20) Round4: SC around (20) Round 5: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18) Round 6: SC around (18)
After completing Round 6, join your last stitch to the first stitch with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the bottom part of the back of your bird. Do NOT stuff. Sewing through both layers of the tail, sew the tail onto the bottom of your bird along Round 4 of the body so the tail points out towards the center of the back of the body.
Flowerfor Betty Bird
Round 1: Using Caution, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. Join to first st with a SL ST. FO. Round 2: Change to Rouge, attaching it to the first ST of the previous round.CH 1.(HDC, DC, HDC) in the first st. *(SL ST, HDC, DC, HDC) in the next st.* Repeat instructions in ** 4 more times. Join last st to first st with a SL ST.
FO and weave in ends. Sew to the head of the bird.
Hat for Bob Bird
Round 1: Using Celestial, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC 1, (SCINC, SC 2) x 5, SCINC, SC 1 (24) Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Rounds 6 – 8: SC around (30) Round 9: (SCINC, SC 1) x 15 (45) Round 10: SL ST in each st around. (45) FO. Using a long piece of Celestial yarn, sew the hat onto the top of the bird’s head, adding a bit of stuffing into the hat before closing it up.
Feel free to sell the item
created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when
posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate,
or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as
your own original design. Please do not
use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished
items! Please share your finished makes
by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook,
Instagram and Pinterest
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
Thank you so much to everyone for all the love you showed my first faux fur yarn project: Kaya Koala. So many people were excited to get started on making a crochet koala of their very own but some found using the faux fur yarn a bit intimidating. As a result, I started a YouTube channel and launched my very first YouTube Video sharing my top tips for working with faux fur yarn. I designed my Crochet Koala Keychain as a starter project for those that may be nervous about crocheting with faux fur yarn. It’s small and quick and helps you get the feel of what it’s like to create an amigurumi type project with faux fur yarn.
For my Crochet Koala Keychain project, I have used Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet (crochet.com) in the colour Kuma to create a mini crochet koala head to be used as a keychain. If you leave out the keychain attachments, you could even use it as a pompom on a child’s hat.
The tools you’ll need to complete this project are 14 yards of faux fur yarn, a small amount of worsted weigh yarn in black, large eye tapestry needle, scissors, a pair of safety eyes, a small amount of polyester stuffing, a split ring and a keychain attachment. These whip up so quickly and are honestly, a little addictive to make. I was able to get 5 of these adorable little guys from one skein of yarn.
If you’re nervous about working with fur yarns, check out my video below and get my tips for working with this kind of product.
Crochet Koala Keychain – Free Crochet Pattern
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
The head is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.
Check out the Video Tutorial for this Pattern:
Pattern:
Head
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them. Add stuffing. Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole and sew on your split ring. Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole. Sew the split ring to the top of the head. Weave in ends.
My crochet koala keychain with the toy that inspired it: Kaya Koala – Which is also a free crochet pattern here on my blog.
Nose:
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in black and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Sew onto face and weave in ends.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Ears (Make two)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Sew each ear onto either side of head and weave in ends.
Finishing Touches
The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see.
Attach Keychain to split ring and you’re all finished!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished
items! Please share your finished makes
by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook,
Instagram and Pinterest
All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.
I have always wanted to design a crochet koala. They’re adorable, furry and just irresistable. I wanted my crochet koala to capture all of those loveable koala qualities and I hope you think that Kaya does. This crochet koala pattern is a relatively easy amigurumi pattern and it is the perfect cuddle size. Plus, this pattern can be made with one ball of Fable Fur yarn and a small amount of worsted weight black yarn.
Kaya the Koala is made using this lovely super bulky Fable Fur yarn I received from my friends at We Crochet (wecrochet.com). I used the colourway Kuma to make Kaya. This faux fur yarn has incredible dimension of colour and really helps bring Kaya to life. This was my first time using faux fur yarn and it exceeded absolutely every one of my expectations. We Crochet just knocked it out of the park with this yarn. It is insanely soft and because of the wide band on the back of the yarn, it is really easy to feel your stitches. Because of the fur, stitch visibility is practically zero but feeling the stitches makes it so much easier to work with. When you see the finished project, stitch visibility doesn’t even matter once you see the beautiful effect of the faux fur. I’ve had people ask me where I bought Kaya because they thought she was a store-bought stuffy. If that’s not a huge compliment, I don’t know what is!
Kaya’s sweet little nose is made with a small amount of Brava Worsted yarn in black which is also from We Crochet. Brava Worsted is a worsted weight acrylic yarn and I used only a fraction of a Brava Worsted Mini Skein to create the nose. This yarn has great stitch definition and was also really enjoyable to use. I’ve started other designs using the Brava Worsted Mini Skeins because they are a great size for amigurumi projects and they come in some really great colours.
If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, check out my video below to get my top tips for working with faux fur yarn.
Are you ready to get started on making your very own crochet koala? Let’s get started.
Kaya the Koala – Crochet Koala Free Pattern
Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
Approximately 10” tall from top of head to bottom of feet.
Gauge:
4 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches
Notes:
All pieces are worked and sewed onto
the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of
the fur.
All pieces (except the nose) are worked in
continuous rounds. Do not join the ends
of your rows.
Head and Body:
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24) Rounds 5 – 9: SC around.(24) Place safety eyes in Row 6 with 4 sts between them. Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing each row. Round 11: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 12: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) Round 13: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round 14: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Rounds 15 – 21: SC around. (18) Round 22: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) Round 23: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO off, using your end to close up the hole. Weave in ends.
Nose:
Row 1: Using black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 3. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC 1. (2) Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC) x 2. (4) Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SCINC, SC 2, SCINC. (6) Rows 4 – 8: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (6) Row 9: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC (4) Row 10: CH 1 and turn. (SCDEC) x 2. (2) Row 11: CH 1 and turn. SC around the outside of the piece, putting a single SC in each st and the end of each row, placing 2 SCs in each of the four corners. Join last st to first st with a sl st. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto head.
Sew nose onto head, between the eyes, adding a small amount of stuffing behind the nose so the nose protrudes off the face a bit.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Ears (make 2)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Round3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18) Round 4: SC around. (18) FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew the ears onto other side of the head. Weave in ends.
Arms (make 2)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8) Rounds3 – 4: SC around (8) Start stuffing, adding more as you work. Round 5: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 2 (6) Rounds 6 –7: SC around (6) FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew arms onto either side of the body near the “neck”.
Legs (make 2)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6) Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8) Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (8) FO leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs and sew onto either side of the bottom of the body.
Feel free to sell the item
created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when
posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate,
or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as
your own original design. Please do not
use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished crochet koala! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.
Please note that this is Part Two of the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along. This is a free crochet along pattern. For Part Three we will be crocheting Buttons’ Legs, Tail and Sweater.
Part One which gives instructions to make the Ears, Head and Embroiding the Face can be found HERE.
Part Three which gives instructions to make the Legs, Tail and Sweater can be found HERE.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Giveaway
Clover USA has generously sponsored a giveaway for participants of the crochet along. A Clover Squad box of Clover goodies is up for grabs. Don’t forget to share your pictures of the crochet along using #theloopylambcal on both Facebook or Instagram and tag myself (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB). I can’t wait to see all your bunnies! To see the contest rules, check out the original post HERE.
Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs
Gauge:
Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square rows = 2” square
NOTES:
All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method. The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater. Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.
Pattern:
Body
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18) Row 4: SC1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24) Row 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) Row 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36) Row 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42) Row 8: SC3, SCINC (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48) Rows 9 – 18: SC around (48) Row 19: SC3, SCDEC (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3(42) Row 20: SC around (42) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round. Row 21: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36) Row 22: SC around (36) Row 23: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5, SC 2 (30) Row 24: SC around (30) Row 25: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24) Row 26: SC around (24) Row 27: SC1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18) Row 28: SC around (18)
FO leaving a long tail to sew the body onto the head. Sew body onto head. Add stuffing to the body as you sew the head on and stuff firmly to help support the head. Not enough stuffing may cause the head to droop.
If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.
Arms(make 2)
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12) Row 3: (SC 2, SCINC) x 4 (16) Rows 4 – 18: SC around (16) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing with each added round. Row 19: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 4 (12) FO leaving a long tail. Whip stitch the arm hole closed and sew onto either side of the body. Mine are placed approximately 4 rows down from the top of the body.
If you would like to join the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your bunnies are coming along. I’m loving the pictures I’ve seen of your bunnies so far. Please keep sharing them using #theloopylambcal so I can continue to see your beautiful work and ensure you’re photos are counted as entries in the giveaway.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
This post may contain affiliate links. The giveaway has been sponsored by Clover Needlecraft. All opinions are my own.
Welcome to the Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along! Buttons the Bunny is a sweet little amigurumi bunny that my daughter named Buttons. Ironically, Buttons doesn’t have any actual buttons in his pattern but since this was the first thing she hasn’t named Booba or Mister Happy Face, I didn’t have the heart to change his name.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress. There’s also a giveaway sponsored by Clover USA for participants of the CAL so keep reading to learn more.
The free crochet pattern for Buttons the Bunny has been split into three parts to make creating him a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
For those of you that will be tuning in to the live discussions on Wednesdays during the CAL they will be happening at 7:30PM EST on January 15th, 22nd and 29th.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Giveaway
Clover USA has generously offered to sponsor a giveaway for the participants of the CAL! One lucky participant will win a Clover Squad Box full of Clover tools and goodies!
During the crochet along, share your pictures of your progress and finished bunny, tagging me (@theloopylamb) and Clover USA (@cloverusa on IG and @cloverneedlecraft on FB), using #theloopylambCAL. Each photo shared (must be different pictures) will be an entry into the giveaway. Don’t forget to tag us so we can make sure we see them. The giveaway is open to U.S. residents only. Must be 18 years or older to win. This giveaway is not affiliated with Facebook in any way. Giveaway will close Friday February 7th at midnight EST. A winner will be announced Monday, February 10th.
Approximately 12 inches tall from tips of ears to bottoms of legs
Gauge:
Bunny: 9.5 sts across x 9 rows = 2” square
Sweater: 7 sts across x 5.5 rows = 2” square
NOTES:
All parts of the bunny are worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of the stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.
The CH 2 at the beginning of every row in the sweater and in the CH spaces do not count as a stitches.
The sweater is worked in a raglan, top-down method. The piece is worked flat to create the neckline, armholes are created and then the body of the sweater. Yarn is rejoined at the armholes to create the sleeves.
Pattern:
Head:
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SCINC) X 6 (12) Row 3: (SC1, SCINC) X 6 (18) Row 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC2, SCINC) X 5, SC1 (24) Row 5: (SC3, SCINC) X 6 (30) Rows 6 – 7: SC around (30) Row 8: SC2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) X5, SC2 (36) Row 9: SC around (36) Row 10: (SC5, SCINC) X 6 (42) Row 11: SC3, SCINC (SC6, SCINC) X 5, SC3 (48) – **Place safety eyes in stitches 27 and 44 of Row 11
To define the face, we will be using a technique called eye indentation. After inserting the safety eyes (don’t attach the washers yet), use your two long strands of yarn in different colours to tie knots around the post of each safety eye. Place the washers on the safety eyes. The long ends of your yarn should point downwards towards the back of the head and through the opening. Just before closing the head, we’ll pull these strings so that that the eyes will be pulled back, creating an indent in the face. As you add stuffing to the head, make sure these pieces don’t get pushed in with the stuffing.
Rows 12 – 16: SC around (48) Row 17: (SC7, SCINC) X 6 (54) – Start stuffing, adding a bit more each row. Row 18: SC around (54) Row 19: (SC7, SCDEC) X 6 (48) Row 20: SC around (48) Row 21: SC3, SCDEC (SC6, SCDEC) X 5, SC3 (42) Row 22: (SC5, SCDEC) X 6 (36) Row 23: SC2, SCDEC (SC 4, SCDEC) X5, SC2 (30)
Now we’re going to indent the face. Using two differently coloured strands helps make this step a little easier so you know which yarn is tied to which eye. Take the yarn attached to the right eye post and cross it over top of the yarn attached to the left yarn post (creating an x with the yarn). Pull the yarn taught gently until you get the indentation in the face that you like. You’ll want to make sure you have the amount of stuffing you want in the face when you do this step because if you have too much, you can pull your stitches or if you have too little, you can have too much of an indent. Once you’re satisfied, knot the two strands of yarn together. It is helpful if you have someone to hold the cross in the yarn while you make the knot so you don’t lose tension. Make sure the knot is secure. Tuck your ends into the head with the rest of the stuffing.
Row 24: (SC3, SCDEC) X 6 (24) – Continue to add stuffing with each row. Row 25: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC2, SCDEC) X 5, SC1 (18) Row 26: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12) Row 27: (SCDEC) x 6 (6) FO and weave in ends.
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Embroidering the Nose
Using the pink embroidery thread and a tapestry needle, embroider the nose onto the face starting in the stitch directly below the MC. Put your needle through 1 stitch above and to the either side of the MC to create a V shape. Continue embroidering through these three stitches until you are satisfied with your nose. FO and hide your ends inside the head.
Ears (make 2)
Row 1: Using Café au Lait and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC (6) Row 2: (SC2, SCINC) x 2 (8) Row 3: SC around (8) Row 4: (SCINC, SC3) x 2 (10) Row 5: SC around (10) Row 6: (SCINC, SC1) x 5 (15) Row 7: SC around (15) Row 8: (SC2, SCINC) x 5 (20) Rows 9 – 16: SC around (20) Row 17: (SC2, SCDEC) x 5 (15) Row 18: SC around (15) Row 19: (SC1, SCDEC) x 5 (10) Row 20: SC around (10)
FO leaving an extra-long tail to sew onto head. Do Not Stuff. When sewing the ears on, pull the yarn taught to help the ears stand upright. After I complete one pass through, I go back and stitch them again to give them a firm foundation. You can add pipe cleaners to the ears if you’d prefer to help them stand up but I do not recommend giving it to children if they are used.
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Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/theloopylamb. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
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