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Free Crochet Chicken Pattern – Sir Clucksalot
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. Spring is upon us and today I wanted to share my free crochet chicken pattern to make Sir Clucksalot. Sir Clucksalot is a quick and easy project that is great for gifting. Could you imagine an easter basket filled with these? How adorable would that be?! For those of you that aren’t fans of crocheting with faux fur yarn, I’ll have a regular yarn version of Sir Clucksalot ready for you next week. When it’s ready, you’ll be able to find that HERE.
Don’t lose it! Pin it for later Save
I was inspired to make a free crochet chicken pattern because my daughter, for some unknown reason, really wants a chicken. She is four and doesn’t understand that you can’t have a chicken as a pet. For a period would wake up, get out of bed and the first words out of her mouth were “can we get me a chicken today” with the occassional variation of that being “can I hold a chicken today?”. Living in the city and being on lockdown aren’t conducive for coordinating a trip to a local petting farm so I decided to get creative. Although Sir Clucksalot isn’t alive, she’s pretty happy with him and the fact that I don’t say no when she wants to take him to bed. I call that a win-win.
For this pattern, I’ve used Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet. If this is your first time using faux fur yarn, I highly recommend that you check out my Tips and Tricks for Working with Faux Fur Yarn video below or the written article HERE. This will help you to hit the ground running and avoid frustration working with this yarn. This pattern is a great place to start working with faux fur yarns because it’s small and doesn’t involve a lot of shaping. Worsted weight acrylic yarn is used to create the feet, beak and frills for Sir Clucksalot.
Skill Level: Easy
Terminology: U.S. TerminologySupplies:
- 5.5 mm Furls Crochet Hook
- 3.5mm Furls Crochet Hook
- 16 yards/15 m (22 g/0.78 oz) of We Crochet Fable Fur in Eisbar
- 9 yards/8.5 m (4 g/ 0.2 oz) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Red
- 9 yards/8.5 m (4 g/ 0.2 oz) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Canary
- 2 – 12mm Black Safety Eyes
- Polyester Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- FO = Finish Off
- MC = Magic Circle
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST = Stitch
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!
Finished Size:- Approximately 3.5” tall. (not including frills)
Gauge:
- 4 sts x 5.5 rows = 2” in Fable Fur – Not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through.
Notes:- Gauge is not vital to the project but it may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project.
- A 5.5mm crochet hook is recommended for the project but if you find you are unable to feel your stitches, you can adjust your hook until you can more easily feel your stitches to know where to place your stitches. This may however affect your gauge and therefore, the amount of yarn needed.
- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
- All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this crochet chicken pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Free Crochet Chicken Pattern – Sir Clucksalot:
Head/Body
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
Rounds 4 – 8: SC around (18) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them.
Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more as you work.
Round 9: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
Round 10: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole. Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole. Weave in ends.Wings (Make Two)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Pull the circle tight but do not join. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the bird, lining the wings up with the eyes.Beak:
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Canary and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC. SC 4 into the MC. (4)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 4 (8)
Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (8)
Join last ST to first ST with SL ST. FO leaving a long tail. Do NOT stuff. Flatten the piece and sew onto the face.
Feet (Make Two)Row 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted yarn in Canary, CH 3. In 2nd CH from hook, SC. SC in next ST. Turn. (2)
Row 2: CH 1. SC in each ST. Turn. (2)
Row 3: CH 1. SCINC in each ST. Turn. (4)
Row 4: CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook. SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3. CH 5. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook. SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3. CH 4, SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook. SL ST 3. SL ST in the last SC of Row 3. SL ST down the side of the foot, placing a SL ST in the end of each row.
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body. Sew feet onto the bottom of the body so the toes just peek out the front.Frill 1:
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Red and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the SC (6)
Round 2: SC around (6)
Round 3: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 4: SC around (12)
Round 5: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
Round 6: SC around (6)
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Flatten piece, do NOT stuff.Frill 2:
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Red and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the SC (6)
Round 2: SC around (6)
Round 3: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 4: SC around (12)
Round 5: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Flatten piece, do NOT stuff.Frill 3:
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Red and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the SC (6)
Round 2: SC around (6)
Round 3: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8)
Round 4: SC around (8)
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Flatten piece, do NOT stuff.Frill Assembly:
Sew the frills on to the top of the head in a line placing Frill 1 closest to the face with Frill 2 and Frill 3 following behind Frill 1, in that order.
That’s it’s! You’re all done your Sir Clucksalot! I hope that you enjoyed this free crochet chicken pattern. I’d love to see your finished makes! Don’t forget to tag me or use #theloopylamb when sharing online so I can see them.
Other Free Crochet Patterns Using Faux Fur Yarns Available Here:
If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here:
- Bearrison Bear
- Faux Fur Crochet Cowl
- Crochet Owl Lovey Free Pattern
- Kaya the Koala,
- Crochet Koala Keychain,
- Seth the Sloth,
- Gnorman the Gnome,
- Taran Tarantula
- Flikka Flamingo
- Crochet Animal Ears Headbands
- Baby Owl Tree Ornament
- Crochet Gnome Christmas Tree Ornaments
- and Salty the Seal.
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Teddy Bear Lovey Free Crochet Pattern
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. I’ve been getting requests from many of you for some lovey toy patterns and I’m happy to say that I have a teddy bear lovey free crochet pattern to share with you all today. My Cuddle Bear Lovey comes with two different blanket types that you can choose from for your toy: a striped blanket made with worsted weight yarn and another blanket made entirely with faux fur yarn. The faux fur yarn version is so soft and lushious that I kind of want one for me. If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, I’ll include some resources here as well to help you be successful when working with faux fur yarns.
Don’t Forget to Pin this Teddy Bear Lovey Free Crochet Pattern for Later Save
I have two new free crochet lovey patterns available now to complete the My Cuddle Friend series:
Using faux fur yarns to make amigurumi can be intimidating for some people. I get it. I used to be really nervous about trying it but once I actually gave it a try I fell head over heels for working with it. If this is your first time using faux fur yarns, this teddy bear lovey free crochet pattern is a great pattern to finally give it a try. The bear is small and quick to make so it’s not a huge committment in terms of time or resources. Faux fur yarn is incredibly forgiving so if you don’t have the tidiest seaming when putting your teddy bear lovey, no one can tell. The fur hides it all and still looks great! Check out my tips and tricks for using faux fur yarns in the video below (or find the write up HERE) so you can hit the ground running. If you’re looking to give faux fur yarns a try, I recommend using Fable Fur from WeCrochet (found HERE). It’s my favourite faux fur yarn as it has a thick strap on the back of the yarn which helps you feel the stitches, even if you can’t see them.
Other Free Crochet Patterns Using Faux Fur Yarns:
If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here:
- Kaya the Koala,
- Crochet Koala Keychain,
- Seth the Sloth,
- Gnorman the Gnome,
- Taran Tarantula
- Flikka Flamingo
- Crochet Animal Ears Headbands
- Polar Bear Tree Ornament
- Baby Owl Tree Ornament
- Crochet Gnome Christmas Tree Ornaments
- and Salty the Seal.
Skill Level:
- Easy
Terminology:- U.S. Terminology
Supplies for Bear with Fur Blanket:
- 5.5 mm Furls Crochet Hook
- 8.0 mm Furls Crochet Hook
- 95 yds/87 m (133 g/4.7 oz) of We Crochet Fable Fur in Eisbar
- 2 – 12 mm Black Safety Eyes
- 2 – 12 mm Black Safety Eyes
- 18 mm Safety Nose
- Polyester Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker
Supplies for Bear with Granny Square Blanket:
- 5.5 mm Furls Crochet Hook – Save 15% when shopping Furls through this link using the code loopylamb15
- 24 yds/22 m (33 g/1.2 oz) of We Crochet Fable Fur in Eisbar
- 88 yds/80 m (40 g/1.4 oz) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in White
- 103 yds/91 m (47 g/ 1.7 oz) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Cornflower
- 2 – 12 mm Black Safety Eyes
- 18 mm Safety Nose
- Polyester Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Marker
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- DC = Double Crochet
- FO = Finish Off
- MC = Magic Circle
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST = Stitch
Finished Size:- Bear Head: Approximately 3.5” tall
- Blanket Size (Both Versions): 12” x 12”
Gauge:
- Bear Head & Arms: 4 sts x 5.5 rows = 2”
- Fur Blanket: 2 sts x 2 rows = 2”
- Granny Square Blanket: 16 sts x 8 rows = 4”
Notes:- Gauge is not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through in the bear parts. Yarn amounts are based on the gauge given so not matching gauge may affect the amount of yarn needed for the project.
- A 5.5mm and 8.0mm crochet hooks are recommended for the faux fur portions of the project but if you find you are unable to feel your stitches with the fur, you can adjust your hook until you can more easily feel your stitches to know where to place your stitches. This may however affect your gauge and therefore, the amount of yarn needed.
- The Bear head, ears, nose and arms are worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
- All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
- The CH 3 at the beginning of each round in the granny square blanket counts as a DC.
- The CH 2 spaces in the corners of the blanket are not included in the stitch count for each row.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Teddy Bear Lovey Free Crochet Pattern
Head
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
Rounds 4 – 8: SC around (18) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them
Start adding stuffing, adding a bit more as you work.
Round 9: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
Round 10: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole. Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole. Weave in ends.Nose
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Rounds 2 – 3: SC around (6)
Join last ST for the first ST with a SL ST. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto the face of the bear. Put safety nose through the center of the MC of the nose, add a bit of stuffing and sew onto the face just below the eyes.Ears (Make 2):
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Join the last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the head. Sew each ear onto the head.Arms (Make Two)
Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Rounds 2 – 7: SC around (6)
FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body. Do NOT stuff. Sew onto either side of the bottom, center-point of the head.Fur Blanket
Row 1: Using Fable Fur and 8.0mm hook, CH 24. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across (23)
Rows 2 – 24: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (23)
FO and weave in ends.Striped Blanket
Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Cornflower, CH 4 and join last CH to the first CH with a SL ST to form a ring. CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC 2, CH 2, *DC 3 into the ring, CH 2* repeat instructions in the **3 times. Join last ST to the top of the first ST (not the CH 3) with a SL ST (from here on out referred to only as Join). (12)
Round 2: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 3* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP. Join. (28)
Round 3: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 3, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 7* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 2. Join. (44)
Round 4 CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 5, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 11* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 4. Join. (60)
Change to White
Round 5: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 7, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 15* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 6. Join. (76)
Round 6: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 9, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 19* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 8. Join. (92)
Change to Cornflower
Round 7: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 11, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 23* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 10. Join. (108)
Round 8: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 13, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 27* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 12. Join. (124)
Change to White
Round 9: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 15, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 31* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 14. Join. (140)
Round 10: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 17, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 35* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 16. Join. (156)
Change to Cornflower
Round 11: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 19, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 39* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 18. Join. (172)Round 12: CH 3, DC in same ST. DC 21, *(DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 43* repeat instructions in ** 3 times, (DC 2, CH 2, DC 2) in the next CH SP, DC 20. Join. (188)FO and weave in ends.Assembly:
Position the head with the arms already sewn to it in the center of the blanket, facing one of the corners. Using a length of yarn that matches the blanket you chose to make, sew the blanket to the bottom of the head in a circle approximately 1.5 – 2” in diameter. FO and weave in ends.
That’s it! I hope you enjoyed this teddy bear lovey free crochet pattern! I’d love to see your finished makes so if you’re sharing it on Instagram, don’t forget to tag me or use the hashtag #theloopylamb.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the teddy bear lovey created with this free crochet pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
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Improve Your Amigurumi Crochet Projects With This One Small Thing
This post may contain affiliate links. I’m working up a draft of an amigurumi pattern while I wait for the yarn I want to use to arrive and I thought I’d share a bit of my process and share some of my favourite tips to help improve your amigurumi crochet projects. What if I told you that you most likely have something in your home right now that can make the difference between your amigurumi crochet project looking haphazard and it being profesionally done? What if I told you that if you don’t have some of these items in your home, that you could get them for probably under $5? You’d probably be saying “shut up already and tell me what it is!”, right?. This magical little item that is often overlooked is sewing pins. Simple, sewing pins. Keep reading and I’ll tell you how to use them to improve all your amigurumi crochet projects.
Pin these Amigurumi Crochet Project Tips for Later Save
Sewing pins may seem like they don’t have a place in the crochet world but these little guys are incredibly handy when it comes to amigurumi projects. They can save you a lot of time and frustration when the time is taken to use them in an amigurumi project. It can make the difference of a polished and professionally done amigurumi project and one that looks a bit sloppy. I’m not saying everyone is looking to sell their items or be professional crocheters (ok, we might actually want that last part) but we all want the best results from our projects and sewing pins can help you get them with little to no investment.
TIP 1: Get Those Limbs in Line!
This little guy may look like a bit of a mess but this mess helps me not only visualize how he will look with the pieces I’ve made attached but it helps me get the ultimate placement for my arms and other attachments that are being sewn on. Sometimes one crooked or ill-placed piece on an amigurumi project can be the difference between your project looking cohesive and polished or sloppy and rushed. So use your sewing pins to pin those pieces onto your project before jumping into sewing. Take your time and be sure you’re happy with the placement before you sew and you’ll save yourself a lot of heartache later.
TIP 2: Use Them to Outline Your Embroidery
Full disclosure: I am not very good with embroidery. I’m a Type A perfectionist and embroidery can be frustrating for me. So, to make things easier for myself, I outline where I want to embroider with sewing pins. I’ve gone a little overboard in my picture here to make it more obvious but that line of pins across his face? That’ll be where his mouth goes. That pin right under the mouth? That’ll be an itty bitty tooth stitcking out. The pins help me know where I want to place them and visualize what it’ll look like before I get started.
TIP 3: Use Them to Create Consistency When Making Multiple Amigurumi Crochet Projects
If you ever find yourself in a situation where you’re making multiple projects from the same pattern, create all your pieces for your projects first and get your pins ready. Pin the pieces to each body and line them up to see if you find any noteable differences. If you find one that doesn’t match, simply pull the pins and readjust that piece. Once you’re satisfied with how they all look, sew on the pieces and at the end you’ll have items that should all look nearly identical. This is a great tip for those creating to sell for shops or markets.
It is crazy how something as small and simple as a sewing pin can help to improve your amigurumi crochet projects so much. I hope you enjoyed these tips and found them helpful. Have you used sewing pins with your amigurumi crochet projects before? Do you use them in a way that I haven’t mentioned above? Let me know in the comments below.
While you’re here, you may like checking out some of my free amigurumi crochet patterns:
- Crochet Tarantula Free Pattern
- Flikka Flamingo – Free Crochet Flamingo Pattern
- Free Crochet Doll Pattern
- Crochet Doll Outfit: Molly the Mermaid
- Find all my free crochet patterns HERE.
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Crochet Iconic Women Book Review
This post contains affiliate links. All opinions are my own. This week I have the pleasure of reviewing a new book called Crochet Iconic Women: Amigurumi Patterns for 15 Women Who Changed the World by Carla Mitrani releasing today, October 13, 2020. When I first heard about this book’s release, I was very interested and have eagerly awaited it’s release. I loved the concept of the book and wanted to get my hands on a copy to learn more about it. I didn’t know which Iconic Women would be included in the book but I was intrigued and couldn’t wait to find out.
Thank you to David & Charles books who provided this book to me free of charge in exchange for my honest opinion.
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For Crochet Iconic Women, the author had the difficult time of narrowing the projects down to 15 iconic women to make. She hints at the potential of a volume 2 and if there is a pre-sale happening to make that a reality, then sign me up. Iconic Women has crochet patterns for 15 women that have faced adversity, overcome it and impacted history. These are not just women from distant history either. There are very real and timely women that are out there making a difference right now. And I just loved that. The patterns included in the book are:
- Marie Curie
- Billie Holiday
- Amelia Earhart
- Audrey Hepburn
- Serena Williams
- Queen Elizabeth II
- Jane Goodall
- Rosa Parks
- Ruth Bader Ginsburg
- Malala Yousafzai
- Jane Austen
- Greta Thunberg
- Florence Nightingale
- Emmeline Pankhurst
- Cleopatra
Watch the video version of my review of Crochet Iconic Women here:
Each pattern includes a brief introduction of each woman, explaining how she shaped history. The intros are interesting and brief enough to give you a better understanding of each woman but intriguing enough to make some of us want to learn more about these women. Heck, you might even learn something you didn’t know before. For instance, I’ve heard the name Florence Nightingale before but didn’t know much about her. But after reading her intro, I know that her nickname was “The Lady of the Lamp” and that she played a huge role in shaping the way hospitals function.
The book has beautiful images and is beautiful from cover to cover. The reference section included in the back is very well done. It’s clearly illustrated and thorough. Carla has included instructions for everything from invisible finish to attaching limbs, making wire glasses and more.
The patterns are written in U.S. terminology and use DK weight yarn and either 2.0 or 2.5mm crochet hooks. The dolls measure 7 3/4″ tall so they are are a great size for little hands. The patterns are clear and simple to follow. A lot of attention to detail has been put not just into the book but the patterns themselves. Florence Nightingale has a little lamp, Marie Curie has a little Erlenmeyer Flask and Jane Goodale has a chimpanzee and a little yellow purse. Each pattern has a quote from the famous lady that’s being created and it’s just another nice touch illustrating the thoughtfulness that has gone into Iconic Women. Carla includes a page at the back of the book encouraging readers to take the patterns, mix and match elements of the projects and to create your own crochet iconic women.
And lastly, just when I think that I cannot love Crochet Iconic Women anymore, I notice that the publisher will donate 5% of the proceeds from the book sales to the Wonder Foundation. Wonder Foundation is a women-led non-profit organization dedicated to helping girls and women through access to quality education. This book is inspiring from cover to cover and I just adore it. I have a young daughter that I cannot wait to make these for. Thank you to Carla Mitrani for an absolutely lovely book and I truly hope that there will be a volume 2.
If you are interested in checking out Crochet Iconic Women, you can find it HERE.
Find Carla Mitrani on Instagram HERE.
If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:
- Waterfall Crochet Granny Squares
- Making with Meaning by Jessica Carey
- Crocheted Wreaths for the Home by Anne Nikipirowicz
- 3D Granny Squares
- You can find all my crochet book reviews HERE.
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Crochet Tarantula Free Pattern – Taran Tarantula
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The other evening I was struck by inspiration seeing two skeins of We Crochet’s Fable Fur sitting on my shelf. I rushed to get to working on my idea so I could share this crochet tarantula free pattern with you quickly. My kids have been watching a ton of wildlife videos and shows lately and that day, they had been watching a video about tarantulas. When I saw the Falke and Corvo yarns sitting next to eachother, it reminded me of a tarantula I saw on their video and I knew I was going to create one.
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Plus, an amigurumi tarantula is perfect for Halloween so inspiration struck at the perfect time! I gathered my tools and started working on my crochet tarantula while my husband watched TV. I worked like a woman posessed. I would not be swayed from creating my little crochet tarantula. A few hours later, and my little Taran the Tarantula was born. I couldn’t wait until the next morning when the kids woke up to see their reaction. It was priceless. They knew it was a crochet tarantula right away and both immediately asked if they could have it. Taran passed the kid-approved test with flying colours! Only downside is that now they both want their own tarantulas lol.
Tips for Working with Faux Fur Yarn
If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns or if you’re nervous about doing so, go into this project knowing that it is seriously much easier than it looks. All my faux fur patterns use simple stitches and shaping techniques and although you can’t really see your stitches, the Fable Fur yarn from We Crochet has a thick strap on the yarn that makes it easy to feel. your stitches. Working with faux fur yarns is incredibly forgiving so even if you don’t think your stitch placement is perfect, I bet no one will even notice 😉 I’ve got a video below here with my top tips for working with faux fur yarns so check this out before you get started with this pattern.
Other Projects Made with Faux Fur Yarn
I am a
bittotally in love with working with faux fur yarn for amigurumi. Ever since I got my hands on my first skein of Fable Fur in Kuma and designed my Crochet Koala with it, I haven’t been able to stop. Check out some of my other free amigurumi patterns using faux fur yarn:- Kaya Koala
- Crochet Koala Keychain
- Flikka Flamingo
- Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern: Gnorman the Gnome
- Salty the Seal (and her seal babies)
- Seth the Sloth
- Otis the Owl
- Baby Owl Crochet Tree Ornament
- Crochet Animal Ears Headband Free Pattern
- Crochet Bear Tree Ornament Free Pattern
- Crochet Gnome Christmas Tree Ornament Pattern
Skill Level:
- Intermediate
Supplies:
- 5.5 mm (I) Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook
- 71 yards/65 m (3.5 oz/100g) of We Crochet Fable Fur in Corvo
- 25 yards/23 m (1.2 oz/35g) of We Crochet Fable Fur in Falke
- Polyester Stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers
- 2 – 20 mm Safety Eyes – I used Champagne Glitter Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet on Etsy.
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- MC = Magic Circle
- ST = Stitch
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
- FO = Finish Off
Finished size:- 8” Long along the body x 13.5” wide across the legs measuring from the end of one foot on the left and one foot on the right.
Gauge:
- 5 sts x 5 rows = 2 inches
Get an ad-free PDF version of this crochet tarantula pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.
NOTES:
- Gauge is not vital to the project but it may effect the amount of yarn needed for the project.
- A 5.5mm crochet hook is recommended for the project but if you find you are unable to feel your stitches, you can adjust your hook until you can more easily feel your stitches to more easily know where to place your stitches. This may however effect your gauge and therefore, the amount of yarn needed.
- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
- All pieces made in the Fable Fur are worked and sewn onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur.
- When crocheting the stripes in the legs, carry the unused yarn inside your stitches to be used for the next set of stripes.
- Do not stuff the legs of the spider.
Free Crochet Tarantula Pattern
Body & Head
Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur in Corvo, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SCINC, SC) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (30)
Round 8: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
Round 9: SC around (24)
Round 10: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6 (18)
Round 11: SC around (18)
Round 12: (SC, SCDEC) x 6 (12) – Start stuffing and continue adding stuffing every couple of rounds
Round 13: SC around (12)
Round 14: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
Round 15: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 16: (SC, SCINC) x 6 (18)
Round 17: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6 (24)
Rounds 18 – 19: SC around (24)
Round 20: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 6 (18)
Round 21: SC around (18)
Round 22: (SC, SCDEC) x 6 (12) – Place safety eyes in STs 2 and 7 of Row 22
Round 23: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)FO leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the front loops of the last round to cinch the hole closed. If you cannot find the front loops, use the tail to sew the hole closed as neatly as possible. Weave in ends.
Legs (Make 8)
Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur in Corvo, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Rounds 2 – 3: SC around (6)
Change to Falke
Rounds 4 – 6: SC around (6)
Change to Corvo
Rounds 7 – 9: SC around (6)
Change to Falke
Rounds 10 – 12: SC around (6)FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail on each leg to sew the leg to either side of the body, placing four legs on either side. Weave in your ends.
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: https://www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.
I’d love to see your finished crochet tarantula! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
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Crochet Cafe by Lauren Espy Book Review
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. I’ve got another amigurumi book to review this week and I am very excited. Recently, I had the opportunity to review Whimsical Stitches by Lauren Espy and the book this week is by the same designer. The book we’re talking about this week is called Crochet Cafe: Recipes for Amigurumi Crochet Patterns. I really enjoyed Lauren’s last book so I couldn’t wait to dive in to see what Crochet Cafe had in store.
Thanks to Paige, Tate & Co., they have provided me a copy of this book in exchange for my honest review of this book. All opinions are my own.
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The cover of this book is beautiful. It has preview images of many of the patterns contained in the book. All the patterns are of kawaii foods and drinks and this book is meant to mimic a recipe book. It’s a cute concept and the cover makes me think of a cute but trendy cook book I’d definitely want to take a look at in the book store.
Crochet Cafe starts off with a reference section and the very first page of that reference section shows the reader how to identify the difference between the right side and the wrong side of the project. I think that’s a great addition as it’s a question that comes up often from crocheters but you rarely see covered. Another fun technique I saw included which you don’t see spoken about often is melting the backs of safety eyes. Lauren is sure to advise extreme caution when pursuing this because, as I have learned from experience, things can get dicey doing this, fast, if you aren’t very careful.
Check out my video review of Crochet Cafe:
Continuing in the fashion of her last book, Whimsical stitches, this book is chalk full of clear and well-done photography to walk you through not just every stitch/technique in the book, but also in the patterns themselves.
Crochet Cafe is broken down into meal sections, just like a cook book. So the sections are:
- Breakfast
- Lunch
- Dinner
- Snacks and,
- Dessert
The projects are absolutely adorable and it’s hard to know where to start first or to pick a favourite. As I’m writing this, I’m looking at the pattern for Bacon, Eggs & Toast and I’m thinking “Girl, shut up! That toast is way too cute! Annnd now I want to eat bacon.” Some of my favourite designs in the book were:
- Lobster & Corn on the cob
- Spaghetti & Meatballs
- Pie and ,
- Chinese Takeout Shimp Lo Mein (because I defy you to resist those little shrimps!)
The patterns were well written and simple to follow, supported by a plethora of beautiful images to walk you through each pattern. If I want to be nit picky, my only thing is that the yardage amounts for the yarns aren’t provided and the exact yarns/colours weren’t provided. There was a shade of green used in one of the patterns that I really liked and would have liked to use the exact yarns she used to make my project but it isn’t the end of the world. This is by no means a deal breaker for anyone. I am a prepper and just like to know how much yarn I’ll need exactly and I like to match what’s used. But, if you don’t follow gauge (which I know many crocheters do with amigurumi), it may have been considered better to just leave it out. So, not a big deal.
Besides that, the attention to detail and cute little extras are really what makes this book fantastic. There’s a little butter dish to go with the lobster and corn! How stinkin’ cute is that?! And the little shrimp? I can’t even start. If I had to describe this book in two words, it would be: absolutely adorable.
If you want to check out Crochet Cafe: Recipes for Amigurumi Crochet Patterns by Lauren Espy you can grab a copy of the book HERE.
Follow Lauren Espy, the author/designer of this book on Instagram: @amenagerieofstitches.
If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:
- Whimsical Stitches by Lauren Espy
- Crocheted Birds by Vanessa Mooncie,
- Kawaii Crochet by Melissa Bradley,
- Weekend Makes, Crocheted Toys by Emma Osmond,
- Dinosaurs to Crochet by Megan Kreiner,
- The Crocheter’s Skill-Building Workshop by Dora Ohrenstein,
- You can find all my crochet book reviews HERE.
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How to Use Poly Pellets in Amigurumi
This post may contain affiliate links Ever wanted to give your amigurumi projects a bit of added weight? Struggling to get your project to stand up on it’s own? The solution is simple: try making a weighted base with Poly Pellets!
Poly Pellets are small pellets made of plastic that can be used to add weight to your amigurumi projects. This added weight can help keep those rogue stuffed animals to stand up-right instead of toppling over. But, there’s a trick to using them correctly, and safely. Today, I’ll show you how to use Poly Pellets safely and effectively in your next amigurumi projects.
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How to Use Poly Pellets
Poly Pellets are tiny little plastic beads/pellets and if you were to add them to your crochet project, they’d eventually work their way through the small wholes that exist in crochet stitches. So, in order to use them safely, the Poly Pellets need to be placed in a cotonainer of some variety that prevents them from escaping. The cheapest, quickest, easiest thing I’ve found to use is nylon stockings. That’s right, I use pantyhose knee-high stockings! I get them in a package of 2 pairs from the dollar store for $1.25 and that gets me 4 stockings to use in amigurumi projects.
If you can’t find stockings, you can try sewing little pouches made of a solid fabric with a tight weave. While that is definitely an option, I personally prefer the nylon stockings for their low-cost and how quick and easy they are to use.
Watch my video tutorial for how to use poly pellets in amigurumi:
Once you have your containment method of preference, you need to add the pellets to it. If you’re not careful, they can be a bit messy so you want to do this carefully. I like to place my stocking into a clean cup or mug and fold the top of it over the opening of the cup/mug to hold the stocking open. Then using a spoon, I scoop the pellets into the stocking until I have the amount I want to add to my project.
Adding poly pellets to the stocking Once I’m sure I have enough, I remove it from the mug/cup and tie a knot in the stocking. If you have extra stocking, you can cut it off and disgard it, leave it attached or, if you have enough you could turn the remaining stocking back over the part of the stocking that contains the beads and essentially double up the stocking to reinforce it.
When you’re using the poly pellets you would use the poly pellets in the base or where you want the weight to be (i.e. the ends of the limbs). You would stuff the rest of the piece/project with regular stuffing. Adding the pellets to the head would just cause it to topple over and no one wants that!
I hope you liked this tutorial. If you want to try a pattern where I use this technique, try out my crochet christmas gnome pattern for Gnorman Gnome.
If you like free amigurumi patterns, you may be interested in these:
- My Dolly Molly Amigurumi Doll
- Free Crochet Dog Pattern Henley the Hound
- Free Crochet Seal Pattern – Salty the Seal
- Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl
I hope you found this tutorial helpful! Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest so can kept in the loop on all my latest free crochet patterns, tutorials and giveaways.
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
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Mabel Bunny & Co. Crochet Book Review
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. I have another amigurumi crochet pattern book to share with you all today: Mabel Bunny & Co.: 15 loveable animals to crochet using chunky yarn by Claire Gelder. I love amigurumi projects so I couldn’t wait to dig into this book and see what it’s all about. Thanks to Search Press, they have provided us with a copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky winner so keep reading to learn you you can possibly win a copy for yourself.
This book was provided to me free of charge in exchange for my honest review. All opinions are my own.
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So what’s unique about this amigurumi project book is that the main projects are made with chunky weight yarn and they’re all jumbo sized. The toys in this book are 27 1/2″ or 70 cm tall with the patterns for a smaller sized 12″ toy also included with some of the patterns. These toys are the ultimate in cuddle-sized toys. Thankfully they are made with the chunky weight yarn so they won’t take you weeks to complete.
The patterns in Mabel Bunny & Co. include:
- A bunny
- Polar Bear
- Elephant
- Sloth
- Dragon
- Koala
- Lamb
- Octopus
- and more!
Inside cover of Mabel Bunny & Co. by Claire Gelder. My personal favourites in the book are Ruby Elephant and Oliver Octopus (who also comes with a baby). The toys are very cute. None of the patterns require the use of safety eyes so the materials needed to get started are relatively simple. To get started with a project in the book, you’ll need yarn, stuffing, a crochet hook, scissors and a tapestry needle. The recommended yarns in the book are easily substituted with some bulky weight yarn in your stash. So you can get started with the patterns in this book relatively quickly.
Mable Bunny & Co, is written in the U.S. terminology with notes throughout the book converting the pattern terminology to the UK terms. So rather than using a chart that one may need to flip back to refer to, they’ve provided the information in the patterns to prevent that. I thought that was handy for those that may not be accustomed to the translations however, it does crowd up the patterns visually a bit which could be confusing if you’re rushing or not paying attention. I personally would’ve preferred the chart since the instructions for assembling your toy make you flip back to the reference section anyways but that’s my personal preference.
A fun little touch is that each doll has a mini heart crocheted and sewn to the toy’s bottom. This seems to be the designer’s little signature on each piece and I thought it was a sweet addition to the doll. It also serves as a reminder to the recipient that their toy was made with love.
The resource section is thorough and clear and includes lots of photos. Photos and well-done instructions are included for getting a clean finish, joining the head and parts to your toy and making the eyes and nose.
Check out the video version of this review:
The patterns themselves are most appropriate for an intermediate/experienced crocheter that has experience with amigurumi projects written in different styles. Some of the patterns could have been clearer and I felt that the addition of a step or some images would have made the pattern clearer without the reader having to attempt to fill in that blank themselves. I was able to figure out what needed to happen in the pattern I was trying but a beginner would have likely been lost and frustrated. Further to that, not all the stitch abbreviations used in the book are listed or explained consistently. The resource section shows you how to do a single crochet decrease stitch and calls it in the resource section “decreasing in single crochet”. But in the patterns, the abbreviation of SC2TOG is used and I could not find that explained anywhere in the book. It’s for these reasons I think that the book is best suited for a seasoned crocheter and not suitable for a beginner.
If you’re a seasoned amigurumi maker and are looking for a resource that will provide you with a set of jumbo-sized friends to make, this may be the book for you. If you’re just starting out with amigurumi projects or even just learning reading crochet patterns, I’d recommend getting more experience under your belt or trying a different resource to get you started before moving onto this one.
If you’re interested in purchasing a copy of Mabel Bunny & Co. you can find it HERE.
If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:
- Fairytale Blankets to Crochet by Lynne Rowe
- Two-by-Two Crochet by Bendy Carter
- Fair Isle Crochet Workshop by Nastasja Vreeswijk
- Beginner’s Guide to Tunisian Crochet by Emma Guess
- You can find all my crochet book reviews HERE.
Giveaway!
Thanks to Search Press, I have a copy of the book Mabel Bunny & Co. by Claire Gelder to giveaway to one lucky winner!
The Mabel Bunny & Co. Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to participants in the U.S., Canada and U.K. and ends Friday, September 18th, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.
To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.
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Crochet Doll with Clothes: My Dolly Molly – Part 3
This post may contain affiliate links. I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.
The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
- Part One: Body
- Part Two: Arms, Embroidery and Dress
- Part Three: Hair
***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!
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Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.
Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3
Skill Level:
- Intermediate
Supplies:
- 3.5 mm Furls Crochet Hook
- Approximately 105 yards/96m (1.7 oz/47 g) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Cream
- Approximately 54 yards/50m (0.88 oz/25 g) 0.6 oz/12g of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Paprika
- Approximately 44 yards/41m (0.71 oz/20 g) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Marina
- 2 – 12 mm Green Safety Eyes – I used Green Glitter Safety Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet
- Multiple Stitch Markers
- Polyester Stuffing
- 2 – 9 mm buttons
- Tapestry Needle
- Black Embroidery Thread
- Scissors
- Sewing Thread and Needle
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SK = Skip
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- MC = Magic Circle
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- HDC = Half Double Crochet
- DC = Double Crochet
- FO = Finish Off
Finished size:- Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip
Gauge:
- Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
- Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
NOTES:- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
- For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. (Find my tutorial on how to do the invisible decrease HERE)
Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:
Pattern
Hair
Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45)
Round 9: SC around (45)
Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains. SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across. Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST. FO leaving a long tail. Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail. Weave in ends.NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH. To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand. For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)
If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!
Molly now has a new outfit! Check out Molly the Mermaid HERE.
Molly has another new outfit! Check out the free pattern for Sleepy Time Molly.
You can find the PDF versions of the patterns for Molly and all her outfits bundled together in my shops for a small fee HERE in my Ravelry shop and HERE in my Etsy shop.Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
I’d love to see your finished items! Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram. Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
Instagram: www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
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Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – Part 2
This post may contain affiliate links. I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.
I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.
The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.
***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!
Pin it for later Save
Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.
Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2
Skill Level:
- Intermediate
Supplies:
- 3.5 mm Furls Crochet Hook
- Approximately 105 yards/96m (1.7 oz/47 g) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Cream
- Approximately 54 yards/50m (0.88 oz/25 g) 0.6 oz/12g of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Paprika
- Approximately 44 yards/41m (0.71 oz/20 g) of We Crochet Brava Worsted in Marina
- 2 – 12 mm Green Safety Eyes – I used Green Glitter Safety Eyes from Chateau Bornais Crochet
- Multiple Stitch Markers
- Polyester Stuffing
- 2 – 9 mm buttons
- Tapestry Needle
- Black Embroidery Thread
- Scissors
- Sewing Thread and Needle
If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- ST = Stitch
- SK = Skip
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- MC = Magic Circle
- SC = Single Crochet
- SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
- SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
- HDC = Half Double Crochet
- DC = Double Crochet
- FO = Finish Off
Finished size:- Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip
Gauge:
- Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
- Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
NOTES:- This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated. A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
- For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops. This is often referred to as an invisible decrease. (Find my tutorial on how to do the invisible decrease HERE)
Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:
Pattern
Adding Eyelashes
Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye. Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye. Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in. Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash. Repeat with the other eye.
NoseTake a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches. Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly. FO and weave in end.
Arms (make two)Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go.
Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9)
Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9)
Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11)
Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11)
FO leaving a long tail. Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.
DressUsing Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37
Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30)
Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40)
Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32)
Row 4: CH 1 and turn. SC in each ST and CH across (32)
Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32)
Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36)
Row 7: CH 6 and turn. SC in each ST across (36)
Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40)
Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (40)
Row 14: CH 1 and turn. SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40)
Row 15: CH 1 and turn. (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60)
Row 16: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (80)
Row 17: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST. (100)
Row 18: CH 1 and turn. (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST. (120)
FO and weave in ends. The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress. Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7. Put dress on doll and fasten.Molly now has a new outfit! Check out Molly the Mermaid HERE.
Molly has another new outfit! Check out the free pattern for Sleepy Time Molly.
You can find the PDF versions of the patterns for Molly and all her outfits bundled together in my shops for a small fee HERE in my Ravelry shop and HERE in my Etsy shop.If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE! You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!
Disclaimer:
Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com. Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design. Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items. Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.
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