• Crochet Book Reviews

    Fair Isle Crochet Workshop Review

    Close up image of the front of the book Fair Isle Crochet Workshop
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I was recently given the opportunity to review Fair Isle Crochet Workshop by Natasja Vreeswijk so today I want to share with you my thoughts on this book and give you an idea of what to expect if you’re considering purchasing this book. Thanks to Search Press, they have provided us with a a copy of the book to giveaway to one lucky winner.

    This book was provided to me free of charge in exchange for my honest review. All opinions are my own.

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    Fair Isle Crochet Workshop begins with a brief overview of basic techniques used in the book and walk through of the Fair Isle stitch technique. The technique utilized in this book is very similar to tapestry crochet in that the colour changes are carried inside the stitches and then brought back up when needed. The overview covers the technique, colour changes, crocheting in rounds & rows as well as the author’s tips & tricks for working with this technique. Since the majority of the designs in the book utilize the humble single crochet stitch this section doesn’t take up a lot of space in the book and doesn’t waste time jumping right into getting you started with it’s beautiful patterns.

    Inside cover of the book Fair Isle Crochet Workshop

    Fair Isle Crochet Workshop contains “15 modern projects for the home”, all of which are just beautiful. There is a throw blanket pattern in the book that is an absolute show stopper that I’m confident would garner compliments and inquiries from every visitor to your home.

    The projects in the book include patterns for:

    • Pillows
    • Blankets
    • Nursery Items
    • Plant Holders
    • A Ragdoll
    • A Clutch
    • A Pouffe
    • A Wall Hanging
    • and more!
    Tapesty crochet baby blanket pattern found inside the book

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    The patterns are written in the UK terminology but to be honest, it is used sparingly as most of the patterns reference the charts and aren’t written out row by row. Directions for borders and special considerations are written out in more detail so it is something to keep in mind when reading those sections if you are most used to the US terminology. A UK to US terminology conversion chart is available in the front of the book, but again, since most of the patterns are comprised mostly of single crochet stitches, it isn’t something you’ll likely have to reference often, if at all.

    Modern crochet colourwork wall hanging image from the book being reviewed

    The charts are typically large enough to see and understand clearly. There were a couple of instances where I found the chart a little small and wish there was a way to enlarge them but, with some patience, I was capable of sorting things out. Grid lines/row & stitch numbers would have been helpful to have but, not a huge deal.

    The pictures of the patterns are clear and beautifully illustrate the projects, making it difficult to determine what project to start first. The projects really wash away any “crochet is for grannies” perception. The styling of the book finds a fun and unique way to mix vintage and modern styling and is a visual pleasure to flip through it’s pages to look at the pictures. I honestly probably flipped through the pictures at least 3 or 4 times before settling down to actually read the content.

    The projects in Fair Isle Crochet Workshop use a variety of yarns in different weights from fingering to aran. The yarns are available to most via the internet or at your local yarn store but could easily be substituted for other yarns you may already have in your stash.

    Overall, this book would be a great addition the crochet library of an intermediate level crocheter that enjoys or wants to work on more colourwork projects. The designs in the book are gorgeous and definitely worth checking out. If you want to purchase a copy of Fair Isle Crochet Workshop, you can check it out HERE.

    If you enjoy crochet pattern books, you can check out some more of my crochet book reviews on my blog:

    Back Cover of the Fair Isle Crochet Workshop book.

    Thanks to Search Press, I have a copy of the book Fair Isle Crochet Workshop by Natasja Vreeswijk to giveaway to one lucky winner!

    The Fair Isle Crochet Workshop Giveaway on The Loopy Lamb is open to participants in the U.S., Canada and U.K. and ends Friday, August 28th, 2020 at 11:45pm Eastern Standard time.

    To enter, use the King Sumo form below. If you are on mobile and have difficulty entering, please use a desktop computer to enter. Only the Email option is mandatory – all other tasks are optional, for bonus entries only. Please note that by entering your email below, you are subscribing to The Loopy Lamb email list. We will not send you spam, just notifications about new free crochet patterns, news and giveaways.

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern

    crochet christmas gnome wearing a knobbly red hat surrounded by Christmas decorations
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    When it comes to making crochet Christmas gifts, you’ve got to start early. It requires a lot of planning in order to get everything done in time to get your crochet gifts under the tree. (If you need help planning, check out my Holiday Gift Project Planner article and download the free tracker to get yourself on-track for Christmas gift making). But, if I’m honest, Christmas sneaks up on me EVERY. YEAR. And despite my best intentions, I always end up changing the plan last minute or falling behind. When I designed this crochet christmas gnome free pattern, I kept that in mind. I know I’m not the only one that wants to whip up something fun and unique for Christmas each year but it needs to happen fast. So, Gnorman Gnome was created.

    Pin it for later Save

    Gnorman Gnome’s base is made with faux fur yarn (I used Fable Fur Yarn from Crochet.com HERE) which gives him the furry beard that a gnome needs without brushing out strands of yarn, attaching strands of yarn etc. The Fable Fur yarn is a super bulky weight yarn so the base whips up in a flash. If you haven’t seen my other faux fur yarn crochet patterns that I’ve published so far, check them out here: Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth, Salty the Seal and Otis the Owl.

    Adding Pellets to the Base of Your Crochet Gnome

    Polypellets/plastic pellets are added to the base to help keep Gnorman Gnome standing upright and also enables him to be utilized as a door stop.

    To add the pellets to the base, you need to have the pellets contained to prevent them from coming out of your crochet. I used cheep nylon anklets that I got fro the dollar store. It was a package of 2 pairs for $1.25. That gives me enough to do at least 4 different projects that use the plastic pellets for a small price. I fill the nylon I’m using with pellets until I feel satisfied with the weight/amount that fits inside the base and then I tie a knot in the nylon, close to the top of the pellets. Usually I have enough nylon left over to turn the remaining nylon inside-out to pull it over the part containing the pellets to double up the amount of nylon covering the pellets. I knot it again and place it inside my project.

    If you plan to give Gnorman Gnome to a child that may be a bit rough with him, you may want to sew a small pouch for your pellets to go into as a cotton fabric pouch would be more secure that the nylons.

    The hat for this crochet christmas gnome is made using worsted weight yarn and works up quickly. The hat was designed to give it a lumpy/twisted look but still stay upright. The top starts off in a cork-screw type curl and then some lumps and bumps are added as you progress. The hat features only one colour change so it limits the amount of ends you weave in. I’ve also given instructions to limit how noticeable the colour change is. Using the invisible join technique, the colour change is practically… well… invisible!

    Two little feet are created using black worsted weight yarn and they aren’t stuffed so that Gnorman Gnome can stand up on his own. A small nose is created using a cream coloured yarn (or any skin tone you’d prefer) in worsted weight and sewn onto the base. So in total there are 5 quick and easy to make parts that make up this crochet christmas gnome free pattern. It’s a great crochet christmas gift and you can make an army of them in no time. Let’s get started making our crochet christmas gnome Gnorman Gnome.

    (If you’re looking for some other last-minute crochet christmas gifts, check out this round-up of free crochet patterns that make great last-minute gifts HERE. You may also be interested in checking out my Free Crochet Christmas Decoration Pattern Round-Up as well.)

    Christmas in July Make Along

    I’m participating in the Christmas in July Make Along with Underground Crafter. Come join the fun! 31 bloggers have teamed up to bring you a month full of free patterns to kick start the handmade holiday season — including crochet, knitting, sewing, and crafting projects. There’s something new to make every day in July. Each week will have a theme.

    Week 1 (July 1-7): Babies, Kids, and Teens
    Week 2 (July 8-14): Women
    Week 3 (July 15-21): Gifts for Anyone
    Week 4 (July 22-28): Home
    Week 5 (July 29-31): Pets

    We’ve also partnered with some of our favorite companies to get some great prizes for you. Find out more information about participating designers, the schedule, and how to enter to win the prizes on Underground Crafter. The deadline for entering the giveaway is Tuesday, August 4, 2020 at 11:59 p.m. Eastern.

    How To Join the 2020 Christmas in July Make Along

    • You can join in by crocheting, knitting, sewing, or making the projects as you have time.
    • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CIJMakeAlong2020 on all social media.
    • If you’d like to chat with other crafters, join the Underground Crafters Facebook group
    • By the end of the Make Along, you’ll have up to 31 awesome projects. Get ready for the handmade holiday season while having fun with us!

    Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the giveaway, and to get links to each Christmas in July Make Along post as it is released.

    Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern: Gnorman Gnome

    Side profile of the crochet scandinavian gnome project

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small fee HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Tutorials You May Find Helpful For this Project

    Tips & Tricks for Working with Faux Fur Yarn

    How to do the Magic Circle

    How to do the Single Crochet Stitch

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 10” tall from bottom of base to tip of hat and approximately 6” wide at the widest point of the base

    Gauge: 

    • Base Gauge: 4 sts x 5 rows = 2”
    • Hat and Feet Gauge: 11 sts x 12 rows = 2”
    • Gauge is not vital to the project as long as tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes where stuffing can be seen.  However, please note if you do not match gauge, it will affect the size of your project and therefore, potentially the amount of yarn required.

    Notes:

    • The base of this project is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • This project is worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join at the end of every row (unless indicated).  Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round, moving it up at the start of each new round.

    Special Techniques:

    • Invisible Join: FO leaving a tail that is at least 5 – 6 inches in length.  Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.  Place the tapestry needle through the top of the 2nd ST from front to back and pull through.  Place tip of needle into top of the last ST of the round, under the back loop of the stitch, and pull through to the back of the work.  Weave in the end.

    Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern – Gnorman Gnome:

    Crochet Christmas Gnome with a furls crochet hook and a skein of fable fur yarn

    Base

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur in Ursa and 5.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6. (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6. (30)
    Rounds 6 – 16:  SC around (30)
    Join last ST to he first ST with a SL ST and FO and weave in ends.

    Nose

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight in Cream and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Rounds 4 – 6:  SC around (18)
    Round 7: (SC, SCDEC) x 6. (12) – Start adding stuffing.  Adding a bit more with after each row.  Stuff firmly.
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 6. (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the base.

    close up shot of the red and whit knobbly hat worn by the gnome in this Crochet Christmas Gnome Free Pattern

    Hat

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted Weight in Red and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 5 into the MC. (5)
    Round 2: SC around (5)
    Round 3: (SCINC) x 5. (10)
    Round 4: SC 9, SC 5 in the last ST (14)
    Round 5:
    (SCDEC) x 3, SC 8, SC 5 in the last ST (16)
    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9, SC 5 in the last ST (17)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 10, SC 5 in the last ST (18) – Start stuffing tip of hat and continue to add stuffing as you go.
    Rounds 8 – 9:  SC around (18)
    Round 10: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 11, SC 5 in the last ST (19)
    Round 11: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12, SC 5 in the last ST (20)
    Round 12: (SCINC) x 2, SC 16, (SCINC) x 2 (24)
    Round 13: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30) – Stop stuffing hat.  Further stuffing will be added during assembly.
    Rounds 14 – 15: SC around (30)
    Round 16:  SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 17:  SC 15, SC 5 in the next ST, SC 14, (SCDEC) x 3 (37)
    Round 18:  SC 12, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 16, (SCDEC) x 3 (36)
    Round 19: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 20: SCINC, SC 18, SCINC, SC 22 (44)
    Round 21: (SC 10, SCINC) x 4 (48)
    Round 22: (SC 7, SCINC) x 6 (54)
    Rounds 23 – 24:  SC around (54)
    Round 25: (SC 8, SCINC) x 5, SC 8, SC 5 in the last ST (63)
    Round 26: SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 8, SCINC, SC 5, (SCDEC) x 5, SC 5, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) X 2, SC 4, SCINC (65)
    Round 27: SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 60 (66)
    Round 28: (SC 9, SCINC) x 6, (SCDEC) x 3, SC (70)
    Round 29: (SCDEC) x 4, (SC 9, SCINC) x 6, SC 2 (72)
    Round 30: SC around (72)
    FO using invisible join (see special techniques),.  Attach white yarn to first ST of round 30.
    Round 31: (SC 11, SCINC) x 6 (78)
    Round 32: SC around (78)
    Round 33: (SC 12, SCINC) x 6 (84)
    Round 34: SC around (84)
    Round 35: (SC 13, SCINC) x 6 (90)
    Rounds 36 – 39: SC around (90)
    FO using invisible join (see special techniques), leaving a long tail to secure hat to faux fur base.

    Crochet Gnome with a furry beard and a knobbly red and white hat

    Feet (Make two)

    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted yarn in Black and 3.5 mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6. (12)
    Round 3: (SC, SCINC) x 6. (18)
    Round 4: (SC 2, SCINC) x 6 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 7: SC around (24)
    Round 8: SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC, SC 10 (22)
    Round 9: SC around (22)
    Round 10: SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 9 (20)
    Round 11: SC around (20)
    Round 12: SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 8 (18)
    Round 13: SC around (18)
    Round 14: SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 7 (16)
    Round 15: (SCDEC) x 2, SC 4, (SCDEC) x 2, SC 4 (12)
    Round 16: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. DO NOT STUFF.  Weave the tail through the FLO to close the opening. 

    Assembly

    Sew the nose onto the base two rows down from the top. 

    Add plastic pellets/weighted beads to nylon stocking.  Secure closed and place inside the faux fur base. Add stuffing to base around and on top of the nylon stocking.

    Place the hat on top of the faux fur base and use the tail to sew onto the base, adding stuffing to the hat and base as you seam.  Stuff firmly. 

    Sew feet onto bottom of the base so that the tips of the feet stick out a bit beyond the fur so that they are visible.

    I hope you have enjoyed this crochet christmas gnome free pattern for Gnorman Gnome! I’d love to see your finished gnomes so don’t forget to tag me @theloopylamb when sharing on Facebook and Instagram.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items made with this crochet christmas gnome free pattern!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll with Clothes: My Dolly Molly – Part 3

    Crochet doll with clothes next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my crochet doll with clothes pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll with clothes free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Three of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll with clothes pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Crochet Doll With Clothes Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 3

    My Dolly Molly Crochet doll with some furls crochet hooks and yarn.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll With Clothes Free Pattern Below:

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Back view of the crochet doll with clothes made with this free crochet pattern

    Pattern

    Hair

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Paprika, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 5: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 6: SC 2, SCINC, (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 7: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Round 8: (SC 13, SCINC) x 3 (45)
    Round 9: SC around (45)
    Round 10: SC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC, SL ST, SC, HDC, DC 3, HDC, SC 3, (CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) x 13, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SCDEC, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC, CH 15,(SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across, SC in the next ST of Round 9) repeat instructions in brackets until one stitch in the round remains.  SC in the last ST, CH 15, SCINC in the 2nd CH and each CH across.  Join last ST to the first ST with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail.  Sew the hair onto the top of the head using the yarn tail.  Weave in ends.

    NOTE: To make longer strands of hair, CH the desired number of chains and SCINC in each ST up the CH.  To make curlier hair, try placing 3 SCs in each CH of the hair strand.  For less curly hair, try alternating between SCINC and SC up the CH (i.e. SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC)

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this crochet doll with clothes pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – Part 2

    Crochet doll  next to come crochet accessories and a text overlay indicating a crochet doll free crochet pattern.
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share Part 2 of my crochet doll free pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This crochet doll free pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part Two of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The crochet doll free pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    • Part One: Body
    • Part Two: Arms, Embroidery and Dress
    • Part Three: Hair

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    My Dolly Molly with a furls crochet hook and some yarn, made with this crochet doll free pattern.

    Crochet Doll Free Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 2

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Crochet Doll Free Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Adding Eyelashes

    Using the black embroidery thread, embroider some eyelashes next to each eye.  Start in the stitch directly next to the center/side of each eye.  Insert the needle into the stitch two stitches to the right and back up through the stitch you started the eyelashes in.  Insert the needle into the stitch that is one stitch above and slightly to the left (for the first eyelash on the right side and to the right for the left eyelash) of tip of the first eye lash.  Repeat with the other eye.

    Close up of doll's face with arrows indicating where to place needle when embroidering eyelashes.
    completed eyelashes on crochet doll


    Nose

    Take a length of Brava Worsted in Cream and embroider a nose in Round 30 across 4 stitches.  Sew over the stitches multiple times until the nose sticks out from the face slightly.  FO and weave in end.

    Close up of the crochet doll nose on My Dolly Molly

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.



    Arms (make two)

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (12) – Add stuffing to the arms as you go.
    Round 5: (SC 2, SCDEC) x 3 (9)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (9)
    Round 8: SCINC, SC 3, SCINC, SC 4 (11)
    Rounds 9 – 20: SC around (11)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Whip stitch the opening of the arm closed and sew onto the body of the doll, 1 round below the narrowest part of the neck.

    Molly the Dolly an her dress made with this crochet doll free pattern



    Dress

    Using Brava in Marina and 3.5mm hook, Ch 37
    Row 1: SC in the 7th CH from the hook and each remaining CH across. (30)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. (SC 2, SCINC) x 9, SC 4 (40)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn.  SC 6, CH 6, SK 10, SC 8, CH 6, SK 10, SC 6 (32)
    Row 4: CH 1 and turn.  SC in each ST and CH across (32)
    Row 5: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (32)
    Row 6: CH 1 and turn. SC 5, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 7, SCINC, SC 5. (36)
    Row 7: CH 6 and turn.  SC in each ST across (36)
    Row 8: CH 1 and turn. SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4, SCINC, SC 10, SCINC, SC 4 (40)
    Rows 9 – 13: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. (40)

    Amigurumi doll dress for this crochet doll free pattern


    Row 14: CH 1 and turn.  SC across. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (40)
    Row 15: CH 1 and turn.  (SC in the first ST, SCINC in the next) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST. (60)
    Row 16: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 2) x 20. Join last ST to first ST with a SL ST.  (80)
    Row 17: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 3) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (100)
    Row 18: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC in the first ST, SC 4) x 20. Join last St to first ST with a SL ST.  (120)
    FO and weave in ends.  The CH 6’s that created loops in Row 1 and Row 7 will act as button holes/fasteners to close the back of the dress.  Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons onto the back of the dress, on the side opposite to the loops created in Rows 1 and 7.  Put dress on doll and fasten.

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Crochet doll made with this amigurumi doll pattern with a text overlay indicating this is a free crochet pattern
    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I’m so excited to share my amigurumi doll pattern to make My Dolly Molly with you! This amigurumi doll pattern will be split into 3 separate parts for the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along. This post contains information on how to join the crochet along and Part One of the pattern. Check back each Friday for the next part of the pattern.

    I hope you will join along with us for the crochet along. If you do, you can join The Loopy Lamb Crochet Community Group on Facebook where we’ll be chatting and sharing our progress.

    The free crochet doll pattern for My Dolly Molly has been split into three parts to make creating her a little more manageable and so you can crochet along with us. Please reference the posts below for each part of the CAL and instructions.

    ***Join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along Here! Add this design to your Ravelry queue HERE!

    Pin it for later Save

    Before we get more into the pattern, let’s talk about My Dolly Molly. Molly is a crochet doll with clothes that are removeable. For the crochet along, Molly’s dress is made as a separate piece and can be removed and put back on the doll. If you all want to see more outfits and accessories for Molly, let me know and I can try to create some more free doll clothes patterns for her in future posts.

    Molly was designed in a way that minimizes sewing. Molly’s legs, body and head are all crocheted in a single piece. The arm and hair are made separately and sewn on. Her doll dress is crocheted in a separate piece and as mentioned above, is removeable. There is some sewing for the dress in order to fasten the buttons but that was unavoidable in order to make the dress removeable.

    You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern with all three parts together in one convenient file HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

    Back of the amigurumi doll pattern showing the fastening of the doll's dress.

    Amigurumi Doll Pattern: My Dolly Molly – CAL Part 1

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • HDC = Half Double Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 9” tall and 5.5” wide from arm tip to arm tip

    Gauge:

    • Doll: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square
    • Dress: 5 sts across x 7 rows = 1” square


    NOTES:

    • This pattern is worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise).  Do not join at the end of the row, unless indicated.  A stitch marker is used to keep track of the beginning of the round.
    • For a cleaner SCDEC, do your SCDEC under the front loops only of each stitch rather than under both loops.  This is often referred to as an invisible decrease.

    Check out the Step-By-Step Video Tutorial for this Amigurumi Doll Pattern Below:

    Pattern

    Leg 1

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.

    Place a stitch marker into the 3rd ST of the last round of the leg.  FO but do not weave in your end.

    Leg 2

    Round 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted in Cream, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SC 1, SCINC) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC 1, SCINC, (SC 2, SCINC) x 5, SC 1 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 6: SC around (24)
    Round 7: (SCDEC) x 6, SC 12 (18)
    Round 8: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 12 (15)
    Round 9: (SCDEC) x 3, SC 9 (12) – add stuffing to foot.
    Rounds 10 – 24: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.


    Do NOT FO.  We will continue onto the body now.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Picture of the completed amigurumi doll body without it's hair and dress.

    Body

    Round 1: Working into the top of the 2nd leg, SC 8, CH 1, SC into the 3rd ST of the last round of the first leg.  SC 11 around the first leg, CH 1 and SC in the last 4 STs of the 2nd leg. (26)
    Pull the end from finishing off the first leg through the hole between the two legs and use it to sew up the hole.
    Round 2:  SC in each ST around (26)
    Round 3: SC 7, SCINC, SC, SCINC, SC 11, SCINC, SC 4 (29)
    Round 4: SC around (29)
    Round 5: SC 7, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 2, SCINC, SC 15 (32)
    Rounds 6 – 9: SC around (32)
    Round 10: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 6, SCDEC, SC 2 (28)
    Round 11: SC around (28)
    Round 12: SC 11, SCDEC, SC 15 (27)
    Round 13: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC, SC 7 (25) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 14: SC around (25)
    Round 15: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 11, SCDEC, SC 6 (23)
    Round 16: SC 4, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 7 (21)

    Round 17: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 9, SCDEC, SC 5 (19)
    Round 18: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC, SC 4 (17)
    Round 19: SC 3, SCDEC, SC 7, SCDEC, SC 3 (15)
    Round 20: SC 2, SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC, SC 3, SCDEC, SC 2 (12)
    Round 21: SC around (12) – continue to add stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly.
    Round 22: (SC, SCINC) X 6 (18)
    Round 23: SC, SCINC (SC 2, SCINC) X 5, SC 1 (24)
    Round 24: (SC 3, SCINC) x 6 (30)
    Round 25: SC 2, SCINC (SC 4, SCINC) x 5, SC 2 (36)
    Round 26: SC around (36)
    Round 27: (SC 5, SCINC) x 6 (42)
    Rounds 28 – 29: SC around (42)
    Round 30: SC 3, SCINC, (SC 6, SCINC) x 5, SC 3 (48)
    Rounds 31 – 32: SC around (48)
    Round 33: SC 3, SCDEC, (SC 6, SCDEC) x 5, SC 3 (42) – Place safety eyes in Round 33 with 7 sts in between them
    Rounds 34 – 35: SC around (42)
    Round 36: (SC 5, SCDEC) x 6 (36)
    Round 37:  SC around (36)
    Round 38: SC 2, SCDEC, (SC 4, SCDEC) x 5,  SC 2 (30)
    Round 39: (SC 3, SCDEC) x 6 (24)
    Round 40: SC 1, SCDEC, (SC 2, SCDEC) x 5, SC 1 (18)
    Round 41: (SC 1, SCDEC) x 6 (12)
    Round 42: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)

    FO and weave in ends. 

    If you would like to join the My Dolly Molly Crochet Along, please join our Facebook group HERE!  You can post your yarn and yarn color selections, work-in-progress photos, and let us all know how your dolls are coming along. I can’t wait to see all of your finished dolls!

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created with this amigurumi doll pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.  Utilizing or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest  Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    YouTube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    This post may contain affiliate links.

    I realized a little while ago that I haven’t published a free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket yet but I’ve had the idea for this blanket kicking around in my head for some time. I decided to finally make the idea a reality and I’m thrilled with how it turned out. This is my first corner to corner blanket design and I really enjoyed creating the chart and trying out different techniques to find which C2C technique that I preferred.

    I always struggle with naming my projects and this C2C blanket was no exception. After a lot of thought, I just couldn’t come up with anything fitting. I kept coming back to thinking of Greece (one of my top dream destinations to travel to) because the combination of blue and white always seems to remind me of Greece. Growing up I had always been fascinated by Greek mythology and while was finishing my blanket I saw one of my greek mythology texts on the shelf and considered getting it back out and revisiting a few favourites. Then I looked down at my blanket and thought “it’s all Greek to Me” and decided that would be it’s name. I figured it was fitting since I just couldn’t get away from thoughts of Greece everytime I see the colour combo. And that’s how I came up with the name for this C2C blanket pattern. Not the most scientific or artistic process but it works for me lol.

    close up image of the texture on this Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket

    If you’re new to corner to corner crochet check out my tutorials to learn the basics you’ll need to know in order to do this pattern.



    Corner to Corner Basics: How to Crochet Corner to Corner




    Changing Colours in Corner to Corner

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.



    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology
    Woman holding a navy blue and white C2C blanket across her shoulders

    Supplies:

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link (or the links in the supplies list). It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • WS = Wrong Side
    • RS = Right Side
    • FO = Finish Off
    Blue and White Corner to Corner Blanket Made with the It's All Greek to Me C2C Pattern


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 44” Long by 34” wide

    Gauge:

    • 9 squares x 9 squares = 5 inches


    NOTES:

    • To work this corner to corner (C2C) graph, begin with the box/tile in the bottom right corner of the graph.  That will be your Row 1. The graph will be read from left to right and then right to left.
    • Each box/tile in the graph corresponds to with one C2C cluster in your row.  A C2C cluster = CH 2 + 3 DC sts.
    • I recommend crossing off each row in the pattern or graph as you complete it to assist you in keeping track.
    • WS and RS are labelled next to each row number on the ad-free PDF version of this pattern to indicate whether you are working with the WS or RS facing you. The arrows indicate in which direction you are working.

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket: It’s All Greek to Me C2C Blanket

    Free Crochet Pattern for a C2C Blanket - Graph

    I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern for a C2C blanket! While you’re here, check out some of my other free crochet patterns:
    Timeless Teal Chevron Blanket, Striped Thicket Stitch Blanket, Mad About Boo Pillow, Otis the Owl, Salty the Seal. Find all my free crochet patterns HERE.

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl

    Close up image of Crochet owl made with faux fur yarn and this free crochet pattern.
    All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.

    Finally! A crochet owl free pattern! WOO!

    Once and a while, I’ll come up with a new amigurumi pattern and my husband will say ” how have you not done an owl design yet?”. My answer is always along the lines of “I don’t know” or ” there are already so may crochet owl free patterns out there..”. I had always wanted to design a crochet owl but to be honest, I just didn’t feel inspired to create one… until I saw the Mishka Fable Fur colourway. It reminded me of barn owls and I knew I needed to make an amigurumi owl with it.

    Those that know me well, know that my absolutely favourite animals are owls. I am obsessed. Some of my favourite gifts I’ve ever received were opportunities to go and spend the day with birds of prey. I’ve been so fortunate to have had these experiences to do training exercises with a variety of owl, hawk, falcon and eagle species. Everytime I get to spend time with birds of prey, I am in awe and learn something new. I guess I just waited to create one because nothing felt right.

    Picture of a woman holding a snowy owl on her arm.
    I couldn’t resist sharing at least one photo of me with an owl. Me with Elsa the Snow Owl. One of my absolute favourites!

    Pin this Crochet Owl Free Pattern for later Save

    Once I got my Mishka coloured Fable Fur yarn, I just knew an amigurumi owl had to be the next free crochet pattern in my faux fur yarn amigurumi series. (In case you’ve missed it, you can get the other patterns from this series so far here: Kaya Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain, Seth the Sloth and Salty the Seal.)

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, you may want to check out my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn. You can read that post HERE or you can check out the video version below.

    The pattern for Otis the Owl is a quick and simple pattern. He is a tiny little guy and is about 4 inches tall. You’ll need some Fable Fur yarn in the colourway Mishka and some Brava Worsted Yarn in the colour Brindle from We Crochet (crochet.com). I asbolutely love both these products from We Crochet.

    Amigurumi Owl made with faux fur sitting on top of a ball of fable fur yarn

    Believe it or not, I used to be super intimidated by working with faux fur yarns. But I was really inspired by them and had so many ideas that I decided to give them a try even though I was terrified I may not be able to see my stitches. I am so glad that I did! Fable Fur yarn has now become one of my absolutely favourite products to work with to date. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products.

    If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    Crochet Owl Free Pattern – Otis the Owl

    Picture of an amigurumi owl that was made with this crochet owl free pattern sitting in the palm of a hand

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off

    Finished Size: 

    • Approximately 4” tall

    Gauge: 

    • 4 sts x 5 rows = 2” – Not vital to project as long as the same tension is maintained throughout the project and there are no holes that stuffing can be seen through. 

    Notes:

    • The project is worked with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • Pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted.


    Pattern:


    Head

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 5: SC around (12) – Place safety eyes in Row 4 with 2 sts between them
    Add stuffing.

    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the hole.  Add a bit more stuffing and sew up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    Body


    Round 1:
    Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (12)
    Add stuffing.

    Round 6: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up body onto the bottom of the head  Add a bit more stuffing and sew body onto head.

    Wings (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Pull the circle tight but do not join. FO, leaving a long tail and sew onto either side of the bird, near the neck.

    Beak:


    Round 1: Using Brava Worsted in Brindle and a 3.5mm hook, make a MC.  CH 3 and DC 3 into the MC. (3)

    Turn and join last ST to the top of the CH 3 with a SL ST.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face. Using the tail from the creation of the MC, sew the CH 3 to the last DC to close up the back of the beak.  Sew onto face between the eyes and weave in ends.

    Step 1 of the crochet owl beak
    Crochet Owl Beak Step 1 (before the sl st)
    Step two of the beak
    Crochet Owl Beak – Step 2 – SL ST to top of CH 3
    Sewing up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Crochet Owl Beak – Step 4 – Seam up the “back” of the beak
    Seaming up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Continuing to sew up the back of the crochet owl beak
    Back of the beak completely seamed up.
    Back of the crochet owl beak, completely sewn up.

    Feet

    Row 1: Using 3.5mm hook and Brava Worsted yarn in Brindle, CH 3. In 2nd CH from hook, SC.  SC in next ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 2: CH 1. SC in each ST. Turn. (2)
    Row 3:  CH 1. SCINC in each ST. Turn. (4)
    Row 4: CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3.  CH 4. SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the next SC of Row 3. CH 4 SL ST in the 2nd CH from the hook.  SL ST 2. SL ST in the last SC of Row 3.  SL ST down the side of the foot, placing a SL ST in the end of each row. 
    FO leaving a long tail to sew onto body.  Sew feet onto the bottom of the body so the toes just peek out the front.

    Completed Crochet Owl Foot
    Completed Crochet Owl Foot
    view of the crochet owl feet created in this free crochet pattern and sewn to the bottom of the project.
    I’m loving his little feet so much!

    Finishing Touches

    The fur may cover up the eyes a bit so take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the fur around the face so they are easier to see. 

    Check out some of my other Free Faux Fur Crochet Patterns:

    Seth the Sloth, Kaya the Koala, Crochet Koala Keychain.


    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Youtube: The Loopy Lamb YouTube Channel
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links.
  • Crochet Patterns

    Free Crochet Sloth Pattern: Seth the Sloth

    Amigurumi Crochet Sloth made with Faux fur holding a crochet hook
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.

    I am so excited to share my brand new free crochet sloth pattern with you to make my friend Seth the Sloth. This is a relatively simple amigurumi pattern that just looks incredible using the faux fur yarn. All my friends and family that have seen him want him or one of their own. This is my favourite crochet sloth pattern that I’ve created so far and I’m sure you’ll love him too.

    When I got the idea for making an amigurumi sloth, I tried a few different things but I never felt really happy with them. After I made my crochet koala, Kaya Koala (get her free crochet pattern HERE), I fell in love with working with faux fur yarn and I just knew that I had to use it to make a sloth. Once I had that I idea, I started immediately and worked on it late into the night. I was so inspired that I couldn’t put the hook down! I knew I’d pay for my lack of sleep the next day but I didn’t care. I HAD to finish the sloth and I wouldn’t rest until I did.

    Pin it for later Save

    When I was finally finished (at an obscenely late hour for someone whose kids were going to be waking up at 6am), I was ecstatic. Tired, but ecstatic. I put Seth up on a shelf so my kids couldn’t get a hold of him before I was able to take pictures of him and headed to bed. The next morning, my kids went crazy as soon as they saw him and immediately started arguing over who was going to keep him. After explaining to them that Seth was for Mommy’s blog and that Mommy was going to keep him for a while, they agreed to wait until I was done with him to play with him… but only if I would let them each pet and cuddle him for a minute. Honestly, seeing how excited my kids get over my projects makes me more excited about them and seeing the joy on their faces when I give them a new toy I create makes it all worth it.

    Crochet sloth resting it's arm on a ball of faux fur yarn with a crochet hook in it's lap.

    This free crochet sloth pattern uses mushroom buttons instead of safety eyes, so for safety reasons, I wouldn’t recommend giving this toy to a small child that may put the toy in their mouth. My children are past that stage so I feel comfortable letting them play a toy that has buttons for eyes like Seth does.

    I got the yarn to make this project from Wecrochet.com. I am so in love with their Fable Fur yarn and their Brava Worsted yarns. They don’t pay me to say that and I don’t endorse products I’m not happy with. I just really love working with these products. If you’re planning on buying the materials for this project, please consider doing so through this affiliate link. It helps to support the blog at zero cost to you and allows me to continue to bring you great free crochet patterns like this one.

    If you’re a fan of free crochet sloth patterns, you’re in luck! I’ve got more! Check out my Free Crochet Sloth Coffee Cozy and my Crochet Sloth Hook Case Pattern.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarns, check out my video for my tips and tricks for working with faux fur yarn.

    Free Crochet Sloth Pattern – Seth the Sloth

    Crochet sloth looking at a plant.

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Intermediate

    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • Approximately 12” Tall


    Gauge:

    • Faux Fur Sections: 6 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches
    • Face Patch made with Worsted Yarn: 10 sts x 11 rows = 2 inches



    NOTES:

    • All pieces are worked and sewed onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • All pieces with the exception of the face patch made with worsted yarn, are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join the ends of your rows (except where noted).

    Face and Head:

    Row 1: Using Dove Heather and 3.5mm hook, CH 9. SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 6, SCINC in the last CH. (10)
    Row 2: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 8, SCINC in the last ST. (12)
    Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 10, SCINC in the last ST. (14)
    Row 4: Turn. CH 1. SCINC in the first ST, SC 12, SCINC in the last ST. (16)
    Rows 5 – 7: Turn. CH 1. SC across. (16)
    Row 8: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 12, SCDEC (14)
    Row 9: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 10, SCDEC (12)
    Row 10: Turn. CH 1. SCDEC, SC 8, SCDEC (10)
    Row 11: Turn. CH 1. SC across. Turn. (10)
    Change to Fable Fur Kuma and 5.5mm hook.
    Round 12: Turn piece clockwise and place 24 SC evenly around the outside edge of the piece.  When you get to first and last rows of the piece, you will have to insert your hook into the top of the first row (between Rows 1 and 2 – see picture below for help) and the top of Row 10 (between Rows 10 and 11 – see picture below for help) in order to get your hook and yarn through the piece.  Turn the piece so the furriest side is facing you.  That’s now the right side.


    Round 13: Working in continuous round now with the right side facing you, SC in each ST around (24)
    Round 14: SC around (24)
    Round 15: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 16 -17: SC around (30)
    Round 18: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24)
    Round 19: SC around (24)
    Round 20: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18) – start stuffing, adding more stuffing as you go.
    Round 21: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 22: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO leaving a long tail. Use the tail to sew up the hole.

    Eye Patches: (Make 2)

    Using Black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 7.
    Round 1: SCINC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SC 4, SC 5 in the last CH. On the other side of the CH, SC 4, SC3 in the last CH. (18)

    Join with a sl st and FO leaving a long tail to sew onto the face.  Place the back of the button through the small gap created when you put 5 SCs in the last CH of the eye patch. Secure button using a length of black yarn and your tapestry needle. Repeat with the other eye patch.  Position each eye patch on the face, slightly overlapping the edge of the face and sew onto the face.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Nose

    Using a length of black yarn approximately 15 inches long, embroider a nose onto the face of your sloth approximately 3 stitches long.  There should be 3 stitches on either side of the nose between the nose and the end of eye patches.

    Close up image of the face of the crochet sloth made with this free crochet sloth pattern

    Body

    Round 1: Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24)
    Round 5: (SCINC, SC 3) x 6 (30)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (30)
    Round 8: (SCDEC, SC 3) x 6 (24)
    Round 9: SC around (24)
    Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18)
    Round 11: SC around (18)
    Round 12: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12) – Start stuffing.  Adding a bit more stuffing after each round.
    Rounds 13 – 14: SC around (12)
    FO leaving a long tail to secure to the head.  Sew the body onto the head, adding more stuffing as you seam to support the head. Stuff firmly.

    Arms (Make 2)

    Round 1:  Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew arms onto body.  Do not stuff.  Sew arms onto either side of the body just below where the head meets the body.

    Crochet sloth being held by the hand.

    Legs (Make 2)

    Round 1:  Using 5.5mm hook and Fable Fur yarn, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC.  (6)
    Rounds 2 – 14: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail to sew legs onto body.  Do not stuff.  Sew legs onto either side of the bottoms of the body.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, or claim this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
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    Picture of Crochet sloth made with faux fur yarn with a text overlay
    This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own.
  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Koala Free Pattern – Kaya the Koala

    Crochet Koala made with Fur Yarn being held in someone's hands.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    I have always wanted to design a crochet koala. They’re adorable, furry and just irresistable. I wanted my crochet koala to capture all of those loveable koala qualities and I hope you think that Kaya does. This crochet koala pattern is a relatively easy amigurumi pattern and it is the perfect cuddle size. Plus, this pattern can be made with one ball of Fable Fur yarn and a small amount of worsted weight black yarn.

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    Kaya the Koala is made using this lovely super bulky Fable Fur yarn I received from my friends at We Crochet (wecrochet.com). I used the colourway Kuma to make Kaya. This faux fur yarn has incredible dimension of colour and really helps bring Kaya to life. This was my first time using faux fur yarn and it exceeded absolutely every one of my expectations. We Crochet just knocked it out of the park with this yarn. It is insanely soft and because of the wide band on the back of the yarn, it is really easy to feel your stitches. Because of the fur, stitch visibility is practically zero but feeling the stitches makes it so much easier to work with. When you see the finished project, stitch visibility doesn’t even matter once you see the beautiful effect of the faux fur. I’ve had people ask me where I bought Kaya because they thought she was a store-bought stuffy. If that’s not a huge compliment, I don’t know what is!

    Fable Fur Yarn and crochet accessories coming out of a mustard tote from Wecrochet.com

    Kaya’s sweet little nose is made with a small amount of Brava Worsted yarn in black which is also from We Crochet. Brava Worsted is a worsted weight acrylic yarn and I used only a fraction of a Brava Worsted Mini Skein to create the nose. This yarn has great stitch definition and was also really enjoyable to use. I’ve started other designs using the Brava Worsted Mini Skeins because they are a great size for amigurumi projects and they come in some really great colours.

    If this is your first time working with faux fur yarn, check out my video below to get my top tips for working with faux fur yarn.

    Are you ready to get started on making your very own crochet koala? Let’s get started.

    Kaya the Koala – Crochet Koala Free Pattern

    Crochet Koala next to a ball of fable fur yarn and some crochet accessories

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • SCINC = Single Crochet Increase
    • SCDEC = Single Crochet Decrease
    • MC = Magic Circle
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished Size:  

    • Approximately 10” tall from top of head to bottom of feet.

    Gauge:  

    • 4 sts x 6 rows = 2 inches

    Notes:

    • All pieces are worked and sewed onto the project with the wrong side facing out to show the better-looking side of the fur. 
    • All pieces (except the nose) are worked in continuous rounds.  Do not join the ends of your rows.

    Head and Body:

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: (SCINC, SC 2) x 6 (24)
    Rounds 5 – 9: SC around.(24) Place safety eyes in Row 6 with 4 sts between them.
    Round 10: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 6 (18)
    Start stuffing, adding a bit more stuffing each row.
    Round 11: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 12: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    Round 13: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 14: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Rounds 15 – 21: SC around. (18)
    Round 22: (SCDEC, SC 1) x 6 (12)
    Round 23: (SCDEC) x 6 (6)
    FO off, using your end to close up the hole.  Weave in ends.

    Crochet Koala made with this free pattern held in someone's hands

    Nose:

    Row 1: Using black yarn and 3.5mm hook, CH 3.  SC in 2nd CH from hook.  SC 1.  (2)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn.  (SCINC) x 2. (4)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn. SCINC, SC 2, SCINC. (6)
    Rows 4 – 8: CH 1 and turn. SC across. (6)
    Row 9: CH 1 and turn. SCDEC, SC 2, SCDEC (4)
    Row 10:  CH 1 and turn. (SCDEC) x 2. (2)
    Row 11: CH 1 and turn.  SC around the outside of the piece, putting a single SC in each st and the end of each row, placing 2 SCs in each of the four corners. Join last st to first st with a sl st.  FO leaving a long tail to sew onto head.

    Sew nose onto head, between the eyes, adding a small amount of stuffing behind the nose so the nose protrudes off the face a bit. 

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    Ears (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC) x 6 (12)
    Round 3: (SCINC, SC 1) x 6 (18)
    Round 4: SC around. (18)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Use the tail to sew the ears onto other side of the head. Weave in ends.

    Arms (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8)
    Rounds 3 – 4: SC around (8)
    Start stuffing, adding more as you work.
    Round 5: (SCDEC, SC 2) x 2 (6)
    Rounds 6 – 7: SC around (6)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Use the tail to sew arms onto either side of the body near the “neck”.

    Crochet Koala next to a tea, scissors and a yellow furls crochet hook

    Legs (make 2)

    Round 1: Using Fable Fur and 5.5mm crochet hook, make a MC and SC 6 into the MC. (6)
    Round 2: (SCINC, SC 2) x 2 (8)
    Rounds 3 – 6: SC around (8)
    FO leaving a long tail.  Stuff the legs and sew onto either side of the bottom of the body.

    I hope you enjoyed making your own crochet koala! If you liked this pattern you may enjoy some of my other free amigurumi patterns: Buttons The Bunny Free Crochet Along, Clawdia Cat, Wanda the Whale and Ned the Narwhal and Penny the Bunny Cactus. You can find all my free crochet patterns listed HERE.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: http://www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.   

    I’d love to see your finished crochet koala!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
    www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest:
    www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    YouTube:
    Subscribe to my YouTube channel
    Newsletter:
    Sign up for my newsletter!

  • Crochet Patterns

    Crochet Pocket Scarf Pattern – Tweedy Pocket Scarf

    Woman wearing a colourful crochet pocket scarf with zippered pockets.
    All opinions are my own. This page may contain affiliate links.

    This week I’m back with a free crochet pocket scarf pattern: The Tweedy Pocket Scarf. This is a beginner-friendly crochet pocket scarf pattern that uses a simple one row repeat to create a really pretty texture. This pattern is easily adjustable to any width or length and you can make the pockets as shallow or as deep as you’d like. I’ve included instructions for making adjustments to make this scarf your own below.

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    My favourite part of the Tweedy Pocket Scarf is the zippers. Pockets on scarves are great if you want to put your hands in them to keep them warm but honestly, they can sag a bit after use and they aren’t functional if you want to put anutyhing in them. Put your phone in your pocket and you bend over the the phone comes falling out. Gah! As a mom, I feel like I never have enough pockets so I thought I’d add zippers to my pockets so I can keep things in the pockets safely. These pockets are big enough that you could keep a sandwich in them… I’m not saying you should… just that you could lol. But I have definitely used my pockets to hold a skein of yarn and my hooks to crochet while out in public.

    Woman wearing a crochet scarf and crocheting with tools stored in the pockets.
    Putting my new crochet pocket scarf to good use. I have a mini skein of yarn in one pocket and a hook, scissors and tapestry needle in the other!

    Get an ad-free PDF version of this pattern HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy.

    I’m using Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn to create my scarf. I did a yarn review of the Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn a little while ago and you can check it out HERE. With a yarn that has so much colour and personality, I wanted to find a stitch that would work with the yarn instead of against it. It is easy for complex stitch patterns to get lost in all that colour. I opted for a simple stitch and I think it was the perfect option for this yarn. It really shows off the beauty of the yarn.

    Adjusting this pattern

    This crochet pocket scarf pattern when made as written, will create a scarf that is 72″ in length. This length was used so the scarf can wrap around your neck once to keep you warm while keeping the pockets at a comfortable position to put your hands in. If you prefer a scarf that is a little longer or shorter, you can do that by either adding more rows to make it longer or choosing to crochet less rows to make it shorter. If you prefer a scarf that is more narrow, you can create a scarf of any width by chaining an even number of stitches and then following the instructions for the pattern (and ignoring the stitch count). If you do alter the width, please note that you should have an odd number of stitches when you complete each row. (i.e. if you CH 20, you should have 19 sts.  If you CH 36, you should have 35 sts each row.)

    Tweedy Pocket Scarf – Free Crochet Pocket Scarf Pattern

    Woman wearing a colourful crochet scarf in a snowy forest made with this free crochet scarf pattern

    Skill Level:

    • Beginner


    Terminology:

    • U.S. Terminology

    Supplies:

    Abbreviations:

    • CH = Chain
    • ST = Stitch
    • SK = Skip
    • SL ST = Slip Stitch
    • SC = Single Crochet
    • DC = Double Crochet
    • FO = Finish Off


    Finished size:

    • 72” Long by 9.25” wide

    Gauge:

    • 17 sts x 13 rows = 4 inches
    Woman wearing a crochet scarf and taking her phone out of the pocket. Scarf was made with this easy crochet scarf pattern.

    NOTES:

    • To resize this pattern: CH any even number of stitches.  If you do alter the width, please note that you should have an odd number of stitches when you complete each row. (i.e. if you CH 20, you should have 19 sts.  If you CH 36, you should have 35 sts each row.)
    • This pattern creates a scarf that is approximately 72” long and is made to be able to wrapped around your neck once while having the pockets at a comfortable height.  You can adjust the length to be longer or shorter by adding or omitting rows to reach your desired length.  Alternatively, you could crochet to the length the pattern gives and make deeper pockets by folding the bottoms of the scarf up higher than the measurement given in the pattern.

    Crochet Pocket Scarf Pattern

    CH 40.
    Row 1: SC in the 2nd chain from the hook. SC in each remaining CH across. (39)
    Row 2: CH 1 and turn. SC in the first st and each st across. (39)
    Row 3: CH 1 and turn. (SC, DC) in the first st. *SK 1, (SC, DC) in the next st*.  Repeat instructions in * * until 2 sts remain.  SK 1, SC in the last st. (39)
    Rows 4 – 273: Repeat Row 3 until scarf measures 84” long (or until desired length). 
    Rows 274 – 275: CH 1 and turn.  SC in the first st and each st across.
    FO leaving a long tail to sew up the pockets we’ll create.

    Close up image of the pockets on the Tweedy Scarf with furls crochet hooks sticking out of the pocket.

    If you would like to support my blog, you can do so by doing your regular shopping on Amazon. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn a small commission on qualifying purchases made through my Amazon link, which in turn helps to support the blog so I can keep bringing you patterns and great content like this for free.

    With the right side facing you, fold the bottom edge of each side of the scarf up approximately 6.5”.  Pin the edges in place along the sides and using the long tail, sew up one of the side seams.  Using a length of yarn, sew up the other side seam to finish creating your pocket. Repeat on the second pocket.

    Pin your zipper into place on either side of the top of the pocket and using your sewing needle and thread, sew the zipper into place. Repeat on the second pocket.

    If you liked this free crochet pocket scarf pattern, you may like these other free crochet patterns: Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf Pattern, Super Quick Chunky Cowl, Crochet Tartan Cowl, The Ava Cowl.

    Disclaimer:

    Feel free to sell the item created by this pattern but please provide pattern credit back to me when posting online, and please provide a link to my blog: www.theloopylamb.com.  Please do not resell, distribute, duplicate, or share this pattern in any printed or digital form, claiming this pattern as your own original design.  Please do not use my photos when selling your finished items.    Using and/or purchasing this pattern does not grant permission for mass production.

    I’d love to see your finished items!  Please share your finished makes by tagging the pattern on Ravelry, sharing it to our Facebook page or Instagram.  Don’t forget to follow me on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest 

    Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Instagram:
      www.instagram.com/TheLoopyLamb
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/theloopylamb
    Newsletter: Sign up for my newsletter!

    Collage of images of a woman wearing a crochet pocket scarf