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How to Crochet the Floret Stitch Step-By-Step Tutorial
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The Floret Stitch is a quick and easy crochet stitch to do that creates a beautifully textured fabric. It’s a simple two row repeat so it’s great for crocheting while you watch TV. The Floret Stitch is easy enough for beginners to learn so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Floret Stitch!
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You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch. I love how the Floret Stitch looks in a Super Bulky weight yarn. I used the Floret Stitch in my Heather Super Scarf Pattern using Lion Brand Thick and Quick yarn and my model loved the scarf so much, she took it home with her. Find the free crochet scarf pattern for the Heather Super Scarf HERE give it a try to practice this stitch.
Check out my How to Crochet the Floret Stitch video tutorial here:
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- DC = Double Crochet
- SL ST = Slip Stitch
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
Stitch Multiple:
- Chain in multiples of 2 + 3
Notes:
- CH 3s at the beginning of row count as a DC ST
- CH 1s at the beginning of row count as a SL ST
- Placing a stitch marker in the first SL ST of your row will help you from missing this ST in subsequent rounds.
How to Crochet the Floret Stitch
Row 1: CH your desired number of chains. For my example here, I have created a chain of 23. DC in the 4th CH from the hook and in each CH across. Turn.
Row 2: CH 1 (counts as first SL ST here and throughout), *DC in the next ST, SL ST in the next*. Repeat instructions in the ** until the end of the row, working the last SL ST into the top of the CH 3. You may find it helpful to place a stitch marker in the slip stitch at the beginning of this row to help you find it when working your Row 3.
Row 3: CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC in the 2nd ST and each ST across.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until your project is your desired size!
That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? What kind of project would you use the Floret Stitch for?
Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:
- How to Crochet the Foundation Double Crochet Stitch
- How to Crochet the Thicket Stitch
- Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Tutorial
- How to Use Poly Pellets in Amigurumi
- Find all my crochet tutorials here.
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How to Crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. The Paired Double Crochet Stitch, is super simple to learn and is a fun variation on the double crochet stitch that is created using the double crochet decrease (DC2TOG) and chain stitches. This is a simple one row repeat that works up quickly and creates a fabric with. a bit of a lacier look to it without all the hassel. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch.
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You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch. Using a larger hook with a worsted weight yarn will create a more open look and would be great for bags and summer accessories.
Check out my How to Crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch video tutorial here:
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- CH SP(s) = Chain Space(s)
- DC = Double Crochet
- DC2TOG = Double Crochet Two Together
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
Stitch Multiple:
- Chain any even number of CHs
Notes:
- CH 3s at the beginning of row count as a DC ST
- If you don’t know how to do the DC2TOG/DCDEC stitch, learn how to do that with my Double Crochet Decrease Stitch Tutorial HERE.
How to Crochet the Paired Double Crochet Stitch
Row 1: CH your desired number of chains. For my example here, I have created a chain of 20. DC2TOG over the 4th and 5th CHs from the hook (skipped 3 CHs count as first DC). *CH 1, DC2TOG over the next 2 CHs* repeat instructions in ** until 1 chain remains. CH 1, DC in the last CH. Turn.
Row 2: CH 3, DC2TOG over the 1st and 2nd CH SPs, CH 1, *DC2TOG starting in the same CH SP as the last ST and finishing in the next unworked CH SP. CH 1* repeat instructions in the ** across your row. Work the last leg of your last DC2TOG between the CH 3 and the first leg of your DC2TOG from the previous row. DC in the top of the CH 3. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your pattern reaches your desired length.
Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:
- How to Crochet the Foundation Double Crochet Stitch
- How to Crochet the Thicket Stitch
- Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Tutorial
- How to Use Poly Pellets in Amigurumi
- Find all my crochet tutorials here.
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Half Double Crochet Decrease Tutorial
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. Today I want to share my tutorial for how to do a Half Double Crochet Decrease, which is also known as the HDCDEC, DC2TOG or Half Double Crochet Two Together Stitch. This stitch is a variation of the Half Double Crochet Stitch and is regularly used as a way to reduce two Half Double Crochet stitches to a single Half Double Crochet Stitch. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch or HDCDEC.
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You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet.
Check out my How to do the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch video tutorial here:
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- HDC = Half Double Crochet
- HDCDEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease*
- HDC2TOG = Half Double Crochet Two Together*
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
- YO = Yarn Over
**You may see HDCDEC or HDC2TOG used to describe this same stitch in different patterns. I tend to stick to HDCDEC in my own designs but know that if you see HDC2TOG in other patterns, they tend to mean the same thing.
How to Crochet the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch
Step 1: Yarn over (YO) hook and insert hook into the first stitch (ST) from the row below. YO and pull up a loop. You should have three (3) loops on your hook.
Step 2: YO hook and insert hook into the next ST. YO and pull up a loop. You should have five (5) loops on your hook.
Step 3: YO hook and pull through all five (5) loops on your hook. HDCDEC/HDC2TOG completed.
That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? Here are some free crochet patterns on my blog that use the Half Double Crochet Decrease Stitch so you can practice your new skill:
- Into the Fade One Skein Crochet Hat Pattern
- Norse Crochet Mittens
- Juneau Blues Beanie Free Crochet Pattern
Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:
- How to Crochet the Foundation Half Double Crochet Stitch
- How to Crochet the Thicket Stitch
- Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Tutorial
- How to Use Poly Pellets in Amigurumi
- Find all my crochet tutorials here.
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How to do a Double Crochet Decrease or DC2TOG
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. Today I want to share my tutorial for how to do a Double Crochet Decrease, which is also known as the DCDEC, DC2TOG or Double Crochet Two Together Stitch. This stitch is a variation of the Double Crochet Stitch and is regularly used as a way to reduce two Double Crochet stitches to a single Double Crochet Stitch but it can also be paired with other stitches to create an upside down “V”-shaped stitch in a fabric. I’ve got both a photo and video tutorial for us today so let’s grab our hooks and our yarn and let’s learn how to crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch.
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You can use any hook and yarn combination with this stitch but today I’ll be using a Furls Odyssey 5.5mm crochet hook and a Brava Worsted Weight Yarn from We Crochet. You can mix up your hook and yarn weights to change up the look of this stitch. Using a larger hook with a worsted weight yarn will create a more open look and would be great for bags and summer accessories.
Check out my How to Crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch video tutorial here:
Abbreviations:
- CH = Chain
- DC = Double Crochet
- DCDEC = Double Crochet Decrease*
- DC2TOG = Double Crochet Two Together*
- ST(s) = Stitch(es)
- YO = Yarn Over
**You may see DCDEC or DC2TOG used to describe this same stitch in different patterns. I tend to stick to DCDEC in my own designs but know that if you see DC2TOG in other patterns, they tend to mean the same thing.
How to Crochet the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch
Step 1: Yarn over (YO) hook and insert hook into the first stitch (ST) from the row below. YO and pull up a loop. You should have three loops on your hook. YO and pull through two loops on your hook.
Step 2: YO hook and insert hook into the next ST. YO and pull up a loop. You should have four loops on your hook.
YO hook and pull through two loops on your hook. You should have 3 loops on your hook.
Step 3: YO hook and pull through all 3 loops on your hook. DCDEC/DC2TOG completed.
That’s it! Isn’t that’s so simple? Here are some free crochet patterns on my blog that use the Double Crochet Decrease Stitch so you can practice your new skill:
- Into the Fade One Skein Crochet Hat Pattern
- Tranquil Tides Caron Anniversary Cakes Blanket Pattern
- Polar Puff Messy Bun Hat Pattern
- Arctic Gem Beanie Pattern
Want to learn something else? Check out these other great free crochet tutorials:
- How to Crochet the Foundation Double Crochet Stitch
- How to Crochet the Thicket Stitch
- Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Tutorial
- How to Use Poly Pellets in Amigurumi
- Find all my crochet tutorials here.
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How to Do The Russian Join Step-by-Step Tutorial
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. Getting near the end of your yarn and all you can think about is how you’re going to have to weave in yet ANOTHER end? Friend, I’m right there with you. Sometimes, particularly when I’m working on a larger project, I will do whatever it takes to avoid having any unnecessary ends to weave in. Enter: the Russian Join. Today I’m going to teach you how to do the Russian Join to help you join your ends together so you have less ends to weave in to your project.
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The Russian Join is a great way to join yarns together and avoid extra ends to weave in. It can be used for adding a new skein or changing colours. This can be done for both knitting and crocheting and works best with two yarns of the same weight. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to do it:To do the Russian Join, you’ll need:
- two different yarns (the new yarn you want to attach to your project and the working yarn attached to your project)
- a tapestry or darning needle
Watch my video tutorial on how to do the Russian Join here:
- Thread a tapestry needle with the new yarn that you want to attach and leave a tail a few inches long.
2. Turn the needle back towards the strand of yarn and insert it into the plies. Thread the needle through the plies for about 2 – 3 inches (adjust this to be longer for slippery yarns). Keep the yarn tail inside the plies of the yarn. Make sure you keep a small loop near the top – the smaller the better. I like to put a stitch marker here to help make sure I don’t accidentally lose my loop.
3. Pull the needle all the way through and remove the needle from the thread. It will look bunched up but when you smoothe it out, it will cover the rest of/most of the tail. If your loop is too big, tug on the tail to tighten it up. Trim any excess.
4. Take your working yarn (ensuring you have a generous tail) and thread it onto the needle, leaving a tail of a few inches. Insert the needle through the small loop at the top of the new yarn that you worked through and insert it back into itself. You can remove your stitch marker now (if you used one).
5. Pull the needle all the way through and remove the needle from the thread. It will look bunched up but when you smoothe it out, it will cover the rest of the tail. If your loop is too big, tug on the tail to tighten it up. Trim any excess.
And there you have it. A completed Russian Join.
A word of caution: Although I’ve used this technique successfully many times with a variety of yarns I will say that it doesn’t work with all yarn types. There are some yarns that may look noticably thicker so you’ll have to use your discretion on whether this technique will work for your project.
For the majority of the yarns I have used this with in the past, it hasn’t been very noticeable and allows me to keep working on my project after only a momentary pause to work the join. I would not recommend using this technique with roving yarns or yarns have have really fine strands to make up a thicker ply like, Caron X Pantone Yarns or as the results I had were messy and too noticeable in my work.I hope you enjoyed learning how to do the Russian Join. If you have any questions or comments, I’d love to hear from you. Do you have another favourite way to join your yarn or a way you’d like me to demonstrate here? Let me know your thoughts below.
While you’re here, check out these tutorials and learn something new:
- How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish
- How to Crochet the Thicket Stitch
- Improve your Amigurumi Crochet Projects with This One Small Thing
- Picot Single Crochet & Granule Stitch Tutorial
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How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish
This post may contain affiliate links. All opinions are my own. When crocheting amigurumi projects, there are a number of techniques that can be utilized to get get a better-looking finish. Sometimes designers will include instructions for some of these techniques in their patterns and sometimes, they’ll expect you to already know them. Today I want to show you how to finish off amigurumi using the ultimate finish technique. Having the ultimate finish technique in your tool box will enable you to use it for any amigurumi project, whether other not it has been provided for you in a pattern.
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To get the absolute best finish possible, make sure you’re using the invisible decrease stitch for your single crochet decreases (SCDEC) in your final rounds. You can find my tutorial on how to do the invisible decrease stitch HERE. Using this in conjunction with the ultimate finish will help minize any gaps or hole when you’re finishing off your amigurumi project.
Check out my How to Finish Off Amigurumi Using the Ultimate Finish video tutorial here:
How to Finish Amigurumi with Ultimate Finish
When you are on the last round of your amigurumi piece and your piece is stuffed, you should have (generally) 6 single crochet (SC) stitches remaining in the round.
When the pattern says to finish off (FO), cut your yarn leaving a long tail and thread the tail onto a tapestry/yarn needle. Using your tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each stitch in your last round.
Once you have finished, gently pull the yarn taught. This will cinch the last round closed.
Sometimes there will be a little bump that forms from cinching the hole closed. To fix this and flatten the bump, insert the needle into the centre of the bump, and out the other side of your project. This can be done almost anywhere as long as you pull your yarn out between the stitches and not through the stitches. (This will make sure you don’t damage the surface of your fabric).
Pull the yarn taught until the bump flattens. Weave in your end and cut the yarn.
Voila! The ultimate finish gives you… well, the ultimate finish! It is beautifully clean and tidy and can really help to improve your amigurumi projects. I hope you have enjoyed learning how to finish off your amigurumi using the ultimate finish technique. If you have any questions, pelase don’t hesitate to ask. I’d love to hear what you think once you’ve given it a try!
Want to practice using this technique? Here are some free amigurumi crochet patterns you can use it with:
- Free Crochet Dog Pattern: Henly the Hound
- My Dolly Molly
- Free Crochet Bird Pattern: Bob & Betty Bird
- Buttons the Bunny Crochet Along
- Find all my free crochet patterns HERE.
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How to Crochet a Magic Circle Tutorial
This post may contain affiliate links This step-by-step tutorial will help you learn how to crochet a magic circle – often referred to as a magic ring or adjustable circle/ring. The magic circle/magic ring is a really handy technique to know if you’re a fan of amigurumi projects. The magic circle is an alternative to creating a ring with a chain 4 which would typically leave an open hole in your project. When you use a magic circle to being your project it creates a tightly closed ring when you’re crocheting in the round. So if you’re using it for amigurumi, this means no hole for the stuffing to show through and a more professional-looking finish.
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This technique is relatively easy to do but with some practice, it’ll be as easy as creating a starting chain.
For this tutorial, I’m using a 5.5 mm Furls Odyssey Crochet Hook and Bernat Premium (size 4) yarn in Sky Blue.
Check out the video version of this tutorial here:
How to Crochet the Magic Circle
Using your non-dominant hand, hold the end of the yarn between your thumb and pointer finger. Wrap the working yarn around your fingers (from front to back) once.
Cross the working yarn over top of the yarn on the inside of your hand and lay the working yarn across the top of your fingers. I like to use my pinky finger to hold it down and keep it secure fo the next part.
Insert your crochet hook underneath the first strand of yarn and grab the second strand of yarn.
Pull the second strand of yarn under the first strand of yarn.
Twist the yarn to create a loop. Yarn over the hook using the working yarn and pull through the loop to create a chain.
Remove your fingers from the loop. Your magic circle is now completed!
Working Your First Row
To work into the magic circle, work your desired stitches into the magic cirlce, ensuring that both the ring and yarn tail are crocheted over. In my example here, I’m crocheting six single crochet stitches (Get my tutorial on how to do the single crochet stitch HERE).
When you’ve finished crocheting your first round of stitches, gently pull the yarn tail until your ring closes and you have a tightly closed ring. like in the image below.
Continue working your second round of stitches as normal.
Now that you know how to crochet a magic circle, let’s pratice using it! Some of my free crochet patterns that utilize the magic circle technique are:
Clawdia Cat, Carter the Carrot, Penny the Bunny Cactus, Buttons the Bunny CAL (part one, part two and part three) and Once in a Blue Moon Triangle Scarf.Follow The Loopy Lamb on Facebook and Instagram! Sign up for my Newsletter to be kept in the loop and never miss a thing.
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How to Crochet the Foundation Double Crochet Stitch
This post may contain affiliate links. This is an unsponsored post and all opinons are my own. This week I want to show you how to do a foundation double crochet (FDC). You may have heard some buzz about foundation stitches (aka chainless foundation stitches) lately and there is a good reason why – Foundation stitches create your base chain and your first row of stitches for your project at the same time. The foundation double crochet stitch is a real time saver and it isn’t as tedious as working into chains to create your first row.
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Foundation stitches have more stretch than working into chains and tend to look tidier because it is easier to maintain tension throughout your first row. My favourite part? No more counting chains! You just make as many stitches as you need. What’s not to love?
Step 1: Ch 3.
Step 2: Yarn over and insert your hook into the 3rd chain from hook.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook. Next, you’ll yarn over and pull through 1 loop on your hook. This creates the “chain”.
Step 4: Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on your hook. You should have 2 loops left on your hook.
Step 5: Yarn over and pull through all the loops on your hook. This creates your first foundation double crochet stitch.
Step 6: For the next stitch (and subsequent stitches), yarn over and insert your hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” of the last stitch and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook again.
Step 7: Yarn over and draw through 1 loop on your hook. This leaves 3 loops on your hook.
Step 8: Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on your hook. This leaves 2 loops on your hook.
Step 9: Yarn over and draw through all the remaining loops on your hook. This creates your foundation double crochet stitch.
Repeat steps 6 to 9 until you have the number of stitches required for your project.
I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post.
Want to learn more foundation crochet stitches? Check out my tutorials for the foundation single crochet stitch and the foundation half double crochet stitch.
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How to Do The Foundation Half Double Crochet Stitch
All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links. This week I want to show you how to do a foundation half double crochet (FHDC). I’m showing you this technique this week because you’ll need it for next week’s free crochet pattern. Once you see how much quicker it is, you’ll be hooked!
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You may have heard some buzz about foundation stitches (aka chainless foundation stitches) lately and there is a good reason why – Foundation stitches create your base chain and your first row of stitches for your project at the same time. This is a real time saver and it isn’t as tedious as working into chains to creat your first row. Foundation stitches have more stretch than working into chains and tend to look tidier because it is easier to maintain tension throughout your first row. My favourite part? No more counting chains! You just make as many stitches as you need. What’s not to love?
How to Crochet the Foundation Half Double Crochet
Step 1: Ch 2.
Step 2: Yarn over and insert your hook into the 2nd chain from hook.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook. Next, you’ll yarn over and pull through 1 loop on your hook. This creates the “chain”.
Step 4: Yarn over and draw through all loops on your hook. This creates your first foundation half double crochet stitch.
Step 5: For the next stitch (and subsequent stitches), yarn over and insert your hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” of the last stitch and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook again.
Step 6: Yarn over and draw through 1 loop on your hook.
Step 7: Yarn over and draw through all the loops on your hook. Now you have 2 foundation half double crochet stitches (FHDC).
Repeat steps 5 to 7 until you have the number of stitches you need for your project.
I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial! Please don’t forget to pin and share this post.
Want to learn how to do more foundation crochet stitches? Check out my tutorials for the Foundation Single Crochet Stitch and the Foundation Double Crochet Stitch.
Follow The Loopy Lamb on Facebook and Instagram! Sign up for my Newsletter to be kept in the loop and never miss a thing.